• 3D Printing Thread V2 - Making homemade spaghetti since 1981
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Post your 3D printing projects! Previous thread: 3D printer thread I'll be updating the OP with some general 3D printer resources and guides shortly, and maybe even some highlights from the previous thread! but for now here's an update on my PC Carrier thingy: https://puu.sh/AGiFd.png Wow it's a hinge!
Oh neat didn't knew this thread existed which is ignorant from me because there is a thread for nearly everything here. I'm still new to this 3d printing stuff but I've done a few prints and designs, probably in the worst possible way since I'm refusing to watch tutorials for now. Here's an older one https://twitter.com/1dolar1note1/status/995044792424857601 Also did this holder thingy https://cloud.plaster.pw/u/18.06.16-15.30.40.png I do need to find better software to work in though, C4D isn't really made for this.
Try using Fusion 360. It's free, and incredibly good for this purpose!
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/57926/0d51110e-9d3d-4eca-9611-3973abad9ee4/Output_v002.jpg big wip rubble pile, train, and barricade thing off in the distance are off turbosquid, commieball is @Stev
What an impressive print How did you make it fly? 3D art thread is this way Digital 3D Art v14
ah shiet i misread and thought it got remade, my bad
http://puu.sh/AHxqB.png Finished the design of the locking hinge. Now time to figure out if it actually works!
so I broke this volume wheel on my g710+ keyboard and instead of spending 8€+ for a replacement piece I quickly threw together a replica. Bless digital calipers btw https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/483/c5792a94-554d-422a-aa67-8c08c16cac7d/image.png however I have my doubts if this hex piece will a) print correctly (which it won't but close enough is fine by me) and b) not snap too easily https://cloud.plaster.pw/u/18.06.23-00.16.22.png not a big deal for me as I can now reprint and modify this whenever I want. Gonna try to print it tomorrow, don't want to wake everyone up around 12PM.
What software is that?
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/281778/3833e01b-3581-4a57-8b6f-e99f347f06ee/UAV (11).jpg
I think you'll have better luck splitting it into 2 parts, where the hex bit is printed laying flat for strength http://puu.sh/AKfsb.png Maybe even have it reach through the entire cylinder
I use cinema4d and ultimaker cura C4d is more focused on motion graphics but I've learned how to use it over the past five years so it's hard for me to switch to anything else without feeling crippled to some degree Ignore my choice of 3d software as it is not made for such task
Alternatively, you could see about buying some hex rod that will fit, and printing a suitable hole that you can glue it in to.
where can I find a hex rod that is .9mm from side to side
Is that from flat side to flat side or from peak to peak?
oh boy, first print failed for some reason and made a huge mess with material getting everywhere, the second print was fine but the rod was a little too thin so I ghetto'd some tape to it and made it fit. Even the rubber piece fits. https://cloud.plaster.pw/u/18.06.23-14.38.34.png So far everything seems perfect until I tried to plug the board in and broke the connector on my keyboard. https://cloud.plaster.pw/u/18.06.23-14.39.26.png this sucks
Time to get out the soldering iron!
that's flat side to flat side, peak to peak it's around 1.38mm
Since the solder is still present, all you should have to do is position the connector correctly, heat up the iron and hold it very close until it melts & reflows.
A .9mm allen wrench? Mini L
I know fidget spinners are kinda overdone at this point but 3D printed resin molds is something I tried today https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/90ef6706-2f6c-4c8d-8818-719df96db40d/IMG_20180623_152842615.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/2cd64012-123d-4442-9e56-08c3309c9b8a/IMG_20180623_014335352.jpg
Turns out my brother-in-law has a 3D printer just collecting dust in his room, and oh dear it's the XYZ da Vinci Jr. 1 with the DRM'd filaments and locked down to a single software to use. The software is so broken that apparently it doesn't even have it's own slicer. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/209432/52a80719-97d7-4ce3-ba8c-549b0a7eb0af/image.png I think I prefer shitty chink printers using Repetier over whatever XYZWare BS this thing needs
Currently printing a guitar wall hook. Recently moved into a flat with some friends with some strict (probably standard, I'm new to renting) hole drilling rules. The living room has some coving running around the perimeter of the room that allows you to hang things without making holes so I thought I'd have a go at printing some unique guitar hooks that work with the coving. Also, having recently done a bunch of work on parent's living room/lounge, it seems coving/dado/dado profile/skirting etc. is all pretty similar with slight differences, so please correct me if I'm using the wrong terminology here. It's an interesting challenge because the hooks themselves don't need to look nice, they only have to be structural to hold my flatmate's(none of them are mine, which makes it more frightening) hence why they are reinforced with wood screws. I currently have three on the wall, but there is another two guitars to hang that are fairly traditional looking electric guitars which have asymmetrical heads, causing them to hang off centre. I redesigned them to be parametric, though identical in many regards, so the two hooks can be displaced vertically from one another to accommodate the unique neck/head geometry of the guitars so they hang as close to vertical as possible. Anyone had any experience interacting with real 3D objects such as what I'm dealing with and can offer any tips to achieve to what I'm trying? https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/286754/78c19f44-20f3-4514-8649-bd2fbdcf23b7/IMG_20180630_004923472.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/286754/ef61ce0a-ddc6-4d16-a5dc-2fdb4c7317d8/IMG_20180630_004929953.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/286754/93f1c8c8-cc4a-4722-b4a1-dcbd0e4b8a70/IMG_20180630_005000846.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/286754/225afcfe-be48-4e63-a4ae-9db03871f63a/IMG_20180630_004955620.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/286754/b9ce121e-103e-4b63-bf4b-3b0257b2c54a/IMG_20180630_005005116.jpg
There's currently no thumbnail feature, hopefully we'll get that sooner rather than later. As for structural integrity, one thing to pay attention to is print direction. Currently you are printing the layers in a way where it's relatively easy to break the "fingers" off. Ideally you should be making a design where the fingers are printed sideways, to optimise their strength.
For a guitar hook I'd consider doing something like this, printed flat in duplicate and linked with a crossbar http://sebastiangr.us/u/sq1k5.png This way the weight of the guitar will be compressing the angled bit, which should make it much stronger than when it's just being bent. If you're using Fusion 360 you can also use the Shape Optimization feature to get the most out of your material usage (IIRC someone documented its usage in this or the previous thread).
How times have changed! Print orientation was certainly a consideration. As Seba said, ideally it would be in such an orientation where I'm relying on the strength of the material as oppose to the strength of the layer adhesion, but when considering the design as a whole, as I said previously, they're not my guitars and I simply didn't trust the material. When I considered wood screw reinforcements, I eventually landed on my current design due to to fact that, should it fail, the wood screws come very close to intersecting. Hence, should it fail, the only job of the print would be to keep the coarse threads interacting with one another. Essentially if it fails, it becomes a very poorly, yet hopefully secure, metal chain that relies on the integrity of the wood screws. When I approached it like that, I basically disregarded the strength of the print in favour of print time, and I have been very pleasantly surprised. As said, I designed it so should it fail it wouldn't damage my friend's guitars, and in hind sight I went totally overboard-with disregarding the integrity of the print itself. Looking back, I'm not entirely sure how I arrived at such a print orientation, but having tried it, I really have to encourage the use of wood screws as reinforcements. Machine screws obviously wouldn't work in the same way, but wood screws really engage with the material and make for a really sturdy print. I should add, in case it's not clear from the images, the wood screws are considered in the design and as such have screw holes that respect the same shell settings as the rest of the print. I roughly modelled them and subtracted them from the model within fusion and Cura took care of the rest.
I thought it had more words to it but I can't imagine the menus being too complex: 3D printer thread
I've updated the OP with some information. I'll expand it with some words and resources about designing for 3D print later.
Got a roll of white PETG coming in. Don't have any materials for a hot-box so hopefully it'll print alright...
Made a new Oculus Rift sensor wall mount, but this time I went and made it really damn lightweight. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2991862
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