Praise the Emperor and pass the special issue ammunition. Deathwatch just got even crazier with this, can you imagine the amount of hurt their terminators will be able to lay down?
Makes my 10 man paladin blobs pretty nasty again, 40 psybolt ammo shots at 24 inch means you can shoot at something other than the unit you want to charge.
Also pretty nice for Bikey bois.
Hyped if we finally get Sanguinius
Also could be used with astral aim wallhacks.
As someone that played Rhino Rush back when it at least sort of worked, I'd have to say categorically no
Because disembarking counts as a move, mechanized marines get no actual benefit from the new rules unless they disembark into cover and commit to being static, and only then not until the next turn, and only then to get 8-9 extra S4 AP O shots.
So basically in those critical two turns where your Marines make contact, you're still going to struggle to put a dent in serious infantry formations. What I suppose is new is that you don't have to get within 12'' to put out a decent amount of fire and you can just move to the middle of the board more or less, but here's the thing. 30 Tactical Marines is 420 pts, for 60 S4 AP0 shots at 24''. When I take 5 Infantry squads for 200 pts, its quite easy to put out 70-100 ish S3 AP0 shots at the same range, depending on whether you use just the one Officer or have more. If you're up against a horde that puts out more hurt up close, then the number of lasgun shots can skyrocket through the roof even harder. 200 pts is a piddling investment, 420 pts is a huge investment. Especially when you consider the Guardsmen have one simple role and the Marines have a complex and difficult role.
Second, Rhinos are expensive in this edition despite a welcome increase to their durability, while offering very little. Transports in general are pretty bad for being anything other than a bunker because infantry technically move just as fast on foot for a 12'' move transport because you can't disembark after moving.
IMO its the wrong fix for bolters. The problem is that the AP scale is completely wrong. If they wanted to make Tactical Marines actually viable against infantry again, the minimum they would have to do is make Bolters AP-1 + ignores cover and scale the rest of the bolt weapon arsenal from there.
I feel that bolters ignoring cover might be a bit much.
It still seems fucking bizarre to me that in every previous edition, a bolter went through a guardsman's armor, but now its AP0. Yes I understand that the AP system's changes means any AP has become a big deal, but this still seems like such an obvious mistake. Adding many more shots is a good idea since tactical marines still lag far behind pretty much everything, but I think that even adding that many shots and AP -1 will still have them be a mediocre choice.
The other big issue is that scouts are basically identical to a tactical marine with 1 less point of armor, and the points differential is enough that there's basically no reason to bring marines instead. As far as I can tell, having a ton of wounds and models is far superior to better armor saves in this edition, but GW doesn't seem to have gotten the memo yet.
It seems like the general standard for AP is if it used to go straight through an armor, it now makes it a 5+ save. For example hotshot las used to have AP3, now they have AP-2 so a 3+ becomes a 5+, similarly plasma used to be AP2 and now it's AP-3, so a 2+ becomes a 5+.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/448563062585425920/537102688366886913/0121192050a2.jpg
I'm happy with how this spear turned out
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/448563062585425920/537102708625113098/0121192051.jpg
Whelp time to paint up those Sternguard.
Anyone got feathering and wet blend tips? Basically I have this issue with understanding what my overall paint consistency should be. I work from a wet palette, and ive tried with more diluted and more thick paint, but a problem I have that seems to persist is that say, i brush on a bit of colour, and when I want to start feathering on the edge (some 2-4 seconds after), the very fine edge will have dried in but the rest is featherable, making a weird streak in the middle of the blend. For wetblending i notice a similar issue, a long with overall ending up with a paint thats a mix of my two blends rather than a good blend. Is it just a matter of me messing up the technique?
What are you diluting with? If you're using water try medium instead. Water always streaks for me.
always a bit of water, thanks to the wet palette. I've tried adding medium to the mix but maybe its just all overall to thin. I can try on a dry palette with just medium.
I'm working on a Wight Kings cloak, basically. big, flat areas. Makes me wonder if I should try to do it in small sections, but I feel like that would muddle the result.
if you add washing up liquid to water does it stop streaking like medium does?
Oh man those new Night Lords look real good. Plus that's exactly how they'd look as loyalists anyway which is why I love them so much.
Your paint is drying too fast because it lacks some form of retarder. Thinner or basic 'medium' won't help. You can add drying retarder directly, or glaze medium includes drying retarder in addition to other useful ingredients. The consistency should be right in between paint and water, a touch on the thick side if you're using glaze medium, and should be applied thickly enough to have some 'body' but not so thick that it runs or beads up.
Personally, though, I don't bother with wet blending, as I've found glazing or 'juicing' as it's called in the French community to be easier and more generally useful. Rather than trying to mix highlights while they're wet, I paint highlights on normally, then heavily water down the previous color (~10:1 water/paint), and brush very thin layers over the transition point to blend it. With just water, these glazes dry in seconds, so it's not a time-intensive process to apply 10+ glazes to blend a transition (counterintuitively, I don't use glaze medium, because it slows down the drying). IMO it's a much less finicky technique, you get a lot more control over how sharp the transition is, and it's a very helpful skill because you can use it anywhere you highlight.
The skin on these Ogres was painted this way. Note that the light source is above and behind the camera- the lightness on the upper surfaces of the skin is painted on and blended via glazing.
https://i.imgur.com/m0w48qD.jpg
And here's an example of some very quick and dirty glazing to smooth out the layering on the forehead area of this mask:
https://i.imgur.com/0y8vwXH.jpg
Anyways, I think wet blending is overly touted as the be-all and end-all of smooth transitions, so that's just my two cents.
Thanks for the suggestion. I guess it sounds decent as my previous problem has made me stick to glazes and conservatively become somewhat decent at that. Maybe i will just work harder on that (I've also been doing some "thick glazing" as Kujo describes it, also makes it somewhat easy to do transitions).
Might be good
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/01/22/22nd-jan-theta-7-acquisitus-adeptus-mechanicus-kill-teamgw-homepage-post-2/
https://whc-cdn.games-workshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/KTFocusTheta7-Jan22-MagnarailLance30rvd.jpg
https://whc-cdn.games-workshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/KTFocusTheta7-Jan22-ReknitCircuitry10tevf.jpg
for something named a railgun lance and touted as a long range weapon, 18" is pathetic
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/01/23/23rd-jan-kill-team-starns-disciplesgw-homepage-post-1/
He's coming to steal your jeans, guy has three pistols that are basically heavy bolt pistols with +1D, and he's got BS2+ so he's a deadshot. Also confirmed that he is getting rules for normal 40k as well.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/208671/0102d30e-decf-467a-86c8-9280d1d3b000/BLCelebration-Jan23-SeverinaRaine1cerg.jpg
Oh. I need this.
Hoboy the Australian by swap sell site gets weird post occasionally but today its got a guy trying to "get my commission painting off the ground".
The images he linked are frankly not good, half finished models and those that are "finished" are just base coats that have had a wash applied and somehow still look fairly bad.
Everyone posting to it is offering words of encouragement and advice on how to improve, some have gone into some serious depth about how he has the right motivation etc heres a few tips.
You know his response? Retort to basically anyone offering advice that "it doesn't matter the quality" and has his idiot GF and mate writing walls of aggressive text to anyone that offers criticisms.
Luke, when i did some jail time, you remind me of this guy dead set looked the same as you and use to suck cock for protection because he was too weak to stand up for himself, he was in there for assaulting some young kid as well, fully sounds like you
I can't tell if this is the best bait ever or a genuine idiot.
Yeah, being a royal cunt isn't good for business. You could probably get away with being a standard cunt, but certainly not a royal one.
I left that group a while ago. Please tell me they're getting ripped apart.
Utterly destroyed
Can you share a pic of the minis? I mean your vivid description is good but would be fun to see it.
Unfortunately it looks like the admins delete the post
New Genestealer Cult vehicle
https://whc-cdn.games-workshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/40kGSCRidgerunner-Jan24-Ridgerunner2ivr.jpg
A few weeks ago on Dakka someone pointed out that in one of the photos accompanying a GSC announcement, you could just barely see a tire that looked like the Goliath's- but on a base. There was also some back-and-forth about whether one of the vehicles in the recent animated trailer was an artist's take on a Goliath, or a new vehicle.
Guess we have the answer. This model, along with the other new GSC stuff, is tempting me to pick up their codex when it comes out, although I wonder if I'd catch flak for not basing it.
I'm loving the Genestealer Cults line just because it's finally giving us some official representation of civilian life in the Imperium that can be put on the tabletop.
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Warhammer v11: Fires of plastic Squats when
