I wonder, since in the first game's campaign gave you choices with different outcomes, you can save all of the blackstone fortresses and relics so Chaos doesn't get to use them in the final mission. Do the choices and results from the first one carry over to BFG2 from a save file?
nothing carries over from what I've played, it didn't ask for anything when I started it nor has it mentioned anything, but I haven't gone through it so far
Yeah, Warhammer games from what I'm familiar with typically go the route of, "This is how the previous game ended." Regardless of what possible endings there were. The exception that comes to mind is Vermintide 2 where the different character sub-classes are the possible paths the characters went after Ubersreik. Either they save the town then go back to being who they were without change, they are uplifted and motivated by saving Ubersreik and decide to become better, or else the devastation to Ubersreik breaks them, turning them in to psycho deathseekers and outcasts.
Plus, despite featuring Admiral Spire again, the story of BFG2 is wedded pretty heavily to the ongoing story of WH40K, so focuses more on the events of the current Black Crusade. Which means the events of the first aren't to relevant, being quite a while ago.
I find it odd that the first one gives you so many options to run with, especially for the Black Stone Fortresses being like super important then as glimpsed in the beta/tutorial a Black Stone Fortress blows up and is used for the destruction of Cadia. I'm not sure how a big deal these fortresses were, but no one seemed to care once it was gone.
Well, I mean, it blew Cadia up. Which was the big event hailing them finally starting to move the WH40K plot forward in fiction and tabletop (it's been the driver for the big campaigns going on of late).
But still, losing a planet, even one as important as Cadia, or a Heretic Blackstone Fortress... well, in the WH40K universe that's called Tuesday.
in the first game it was one of those 'phew, its gone' moments, but really one of those forts are just a big ship. Imperials can take them down, they just need a lot of firepower and people on the inside. They're less important to the imperials because while the mechanicus might want to research them, they're easily corrupted and turned against them, so they'd rather just blow them all up.
Bought the getting started with sigmar mag that includes the mini, because I wanted that mini. Opened it up and noticed it didn't have a base, what now? Contact gw through email? Go back to the store and show them the opened packaging? Or am I just fucked? I don't have a spare base that size lying around
GW has always had good customer service. Let them know you don't have a base, and they'll probably give you a whole new mini by itself for free.
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/01/27/pre-order-preview-genestealer-cults/
So I guess the "blips" were real after all?
The codex also comes with a card sheet containing 28 Cult Ambush markers and a 9″ range ruler, used when setting up Genestealer Cults in ambush.
I finished my first squad of Skitarii. In the process, I got really annoyed at trying to layer red paint at one point, and in a bout of frustration repainted both arquebusiers to grey. After realizing I didn't like the result, I went back to red, ultimately wasting about four hours of work. I did some experimenting, and found that by thinning my red paint with Pledge floor gloss rather than water, I can get it to go on more smoothly and in fewer coats.
Lesson learned: Don't take drastic actions. Take a step back, think through the process, find a better method.
Anyways, here's Wonderwall.
https://i.imgur.com/QLGOZCV.jpg
Look awesome as usual, how dya paint the red?
-Basecoat VGC Heavy Red.
-1st highlight VMC Scarlet. I apply this to all edges, and any upward-facing surfaces like the tops of forearms. For those larger areas, if the transition between Heavy Red and Scarlet looks too harsh, I water down some Scarlet and feather it along the transition to blend it a little.
-2nd highlight 1:1 VMC Scarlet/VMC Pale Flesh. This goes on just the extreme upward-facing edges. Mixing red with a flesh tone lightens it without turning pink, by the way.
-Seal the whole model with gloss varnish (in this case I used Pledge floor gloss), then wash the whole model with 1:4 VMC Black Glaze/water. The wash flows really nicely over the gloss, so I use my brush to soak up the excess as it pools.
-After everything is done, I seal the model with gloss again, and then flatten it with AK Interactive Ultra Matte.
Overall nothing super complicated; it's basically the method I used on the Renegade Militia, but with an additional highlight step and a thinner wash. The Scarlet is the absolute pain in the ass that nearly made me give up on the red, though, as like most red paint it suffers from the problem of weak pigments. On the bright side, that also makes it really easy to glaze transitions with it, and like I said above thinning it with the Pledge rather than water really helped it to retain opacity.
Kinda ooks like pretty boy is about to take a giant stone dick up his ass.
I find it amusing that the "blips" and "cult ambush remains unchained, no blips" parties were both partially correct.
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/01/28/genestealer-cults-rules-preview-part-1/
Not a fan of that pose / base to be honest. Rather than appearing dynamic it actually does the opposite and makes it look way more stiff and awkward imo.
I finished some grots, not the most amazing models but fast to paint at least.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/208305/9f68374b-0390-439c-96cb-12744a7e89a3/Gretchin.jpg
Not sure how I feel about the blip mechanic, was kind of hoping it would be a bit more than a "my deployment is hard to counter deploy"
Also this
If your opponent goes first, you instead reveal all of your ambush markers at the end of their first Movement phase, and they cannot move anywhere within 9″ of any ambush markers beforehand.
So effectively GSC get a free "you can't turn 1 charge me" shield against ork bike lists?
Honestly, I've gotta ask: some of you say you paint certain models "quickly", like those grots. What is "quickly"? Is that 10 models over a few hours? Days? Maybe a week?
It's probably just that I'm supremely slow, but it's/was not unusual for me to spend upwards of a full day just painting a single Chaos Warrior miniature. How do y'all do it so much faster?
I took a total of 4 days, with 1-2 hours a day of painting. As for getting faster, it's mostly just practice and finding where you can cheat, for example I only bother to paint the sections which are visible at normal viewing angles.
Do orks have any out of phase movement abilities like the warptime power Chaos gets? Because it looks like those are the only way to reliably alpha strike GSC.
It's based on a piece of classical art:
https://i.redd.it/slot7fh6j6d21.jpg
Charges are declared in the Charge Phase, so this just guarantees that you'll be charging from outside 9".
I like the way they've reworked Cult Ambush- it guarantees that GSC have the initiative. Either they get to effectively redeploy their forces before taking the first turn, or they get to wait until after the opponent has done their first move to deploy.
Don't forget that there's a stratagem to have 'empty' blips, too. That means blips can be put forward to act as buffers against turn 1 chargers.
I've got a full time job and bunch of hobbies, so efficiency in painting is something that really matters to me. I apologize in advance for the wall of text.
I consider a quick paintjob for reasonably complex human-sized figures, like my Renegade Militia, to be about one hour per model. I accomplish this via (1) batch painting, (2) intelligent use of shortcuts, (3) products that do the work for me, and (4) focusing effort where it counts.
Batch painting: I start with 5 or 10 models (for the Renegade Militia I did 20- that was a real slog), then go assembly-line for each color. It's surprising how much time you save not constantly switching between paints, and it helps me to pace myself. On those Renegades, I did all the green one night. Then all the brown the next night. Then all the metal the next night, and so on. For me at least, it's much more rewarding to see a batch of models slowly come together than to finish one quickly and have a pile of unpainted plastic in the to-do bin.
Shortcuts: GW's put out a lot of tutorial videos on painting their models, and they're well-done, but I really don't like the technique they use. Generally it's basecoat, wash, re-apply basecoat, highlight, highlight. So like on my Skitarii above, the GW method for a good paintjob would be to first put all the basecoats down. Then I'd wash the uniform with red, wash the leather with brown, wash the armor with black, and so on. Then I'd reapply the basecoats, leaving just the wash in the recesses. Then I'd highlight each color. Then I'd highlight each color again. Very straightforward, very traditional- and very slow. The re-basecoating step in particular feels like a waste of time, but is necessary when using a wash that doesn't produce strong contrast on its own.
On my Skitarii, I started with basecoats. Then everything got one highlight. Then everything got either a second highlight (armor, uniform, silver) or a wash (leather, wood, gold). Then I washed the entire model with a thin black wash at once.
By cutting out the step of re-applying basecoats, doing an all-over wash rather than individual colors, and substituting a wash instead of a layer of highlights for some parts, I was able to save an awful lot of time. And since the wash at the end helps to blend the layers together, I don't need to spend as much time blending the highlights myself.
Okay, so what if you want to really speed paint to knock out an army? GW's method there is basecoat, wash, drybrush. That's pretty quick, but I find I can get a better end result for marginally more time invested by changing up that technique a little. Instead of drybrushing, I do a strong highlight on key areas, and instead of basecoat, wash, highlight, I do basecoat, highlight, wash. Targeted highlights are less blotchy than drybrushing, but because the wash comes last, it can help blend together a strong highlight. This is basically how I did the Renegade Militia.
Or, for something organic, like Tyranids or Poxwalkers, you can start with white and just paint entirely with washes. It's incredibly quick and works surprisingly well. Different models are better suited to different techniques, and it's worth playing around to find what works best.
Products: The key to all of this is having paints that are suited to the task at hand.
GW's washes are great over light colors, but don't produce a stark enough effect to shade effectively over dark colors. That's why with darker colors you end up needing to re-apply basecoats to get good contrast. They're great for one-step paint schemes over light colors, or glazing a color to subtly shift it.
Vallejo's glazes and Army Painter's washes, on the other hand, are too strong to be used over light colors without either dramatically affecting the tone or being so diluted that they only provide blacklining rather than the nice gradient that GW's washes do. They're better for one-step paint schemes over dark colors, or blacklining.
Technical paints can also replace more time-consuming techniques. Vallejo Smoke in particular is one of my favorites; it makes a great gritty effect for wood, leather, or rusty metal. GW's basing materials, while not personally my cup of tea, make the basing process a lot faster.
Having the right tool for the job can cut a lot of time off.
Focus: The glowing eyes on the Renegade Militia and Skitarii are consistently the element that seems to get the most praise. Details like that add a lot of character, and are worth spending a disproportionate amount of time on. There's no rule saying everything on a model has to be done to the same degree of complexity- spending 30 minutes on a model's face and five minutes on its boots is probably going to end up looking better than splitting the time evenly.
Basically, figure out what part of the painting process is taking you the most time for the least contribution to the end result, and change it. Once you've optimized your process to the point where basecoating is the most tedious part, then it's just a matter of practice to get faster.
I know you weren't addressing me specifically so I hope some of that helps.
Cheers for the advice.
I'm not much a fan of doing highligths myself, so that's not an issue, since I'll just pass that. So far I've not done many colours that requires re-coating after I've used a shader, so that's generally not an
issue either. My big issue is spending too long on one model, even though I'm not doing anything with them that'd warrant them to take that much longer to paint.
I did paint 2 space marines at once, as I wanted to see if it made things easier. In a way, it did, since instead if having to take a break each time I finished one part of the single model I was painting, I
could just continue painting whichever space marine I wasn't working on. That said, I found it a bit tedious to do the same colours repeatedly.
It definitely is- I like to listen to podcasts or Spotify, and just hit a zen state where I can do two or three hours of painting without getting bored.
https://i.imgur.com/po4DQxMh.jpg
This here fellow took me around, I'd say... 8-9 hours. For a single model. I have at least 25 more of these dudes to go. Now, doing an entire squad is going to be much faster in per-figure time, because I'll be doing passes over with a single color, so even though it's still 8 hours, I'll be getting at least 10 dudes done at a time.
I can't believe it took that long for Sanguinius to get a model. Blood Angels have almost nothing unique on Forge World either.
Well the Blood Angels don't have rules for any of their unique characters or units yet, so that's to be expected. Disregarding those, they have all their infantry upgrades, 2 Praetor models, and 2 dreadnought models, which is basically on par with everybody else. They've also always received a lot of modelling love from GW, so there weren't as many gaps for FW to fill in previously.
They're doing everything in the timeline of the Heresy, so since the Blood Angels weren't active at the very beginning, it was always gonna take some time before they got their cool stuff.
Oh didn't realise they had Praetor's too. And yeah, aside from Fear to Tread they haven't done much in the Heresy aside from sit Ultramar while the Dark Angels did all the cool stuff. Fair enough.
Went to nearly completing the campaign to Battlefleet: Gothic Armada and is it me or is the Emperor class super OP in regular modes like Cruiser Clash? It's like I can just bulldoze all of Chaos with just that and a Cruiser w/ a nova cannon.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
Warhammer v11: Fires of plastic Squats when
