[QUOTE=FireStarw;44794948][URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36160122/goopgun_mods.zip"][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/4BFNjPs.png[/IMG][/URL] ...?[/QUOTE]
I loved the Biogun/goop gun in UT/UT2k4. My most used weapon.
[QUOTE=FireStarw;44794948][URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36160122/goopgun_mods.zip"][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/4BFNjPs.png[/IMG][/URL] ...?[/QUOTE]
Ah yes, that was it. Thanks.
Worked on *this fucking thing* a bit more today, took on the advice and did some stuff, mostly redoing the wood and de-battlefield 3ing some of the metal
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37546036/IfItsWorthDoing....png[/IMG]
Didn't necessarily improve it though
And of course I'm still on the fence about the barrel, so how about a vote since approximately all of you have a better eye for this than I do
Zing for blank barrel, Winner for burned pattern
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37546036/SickBurn.gif[/IMG]
OR how about team coloured paint, even? Artistic for this
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37546036/TheRabbitHoleDeepens.gif[/IMG]
This is certainly way more lively! Won't work well at game res with how I've done it atm though, so that'll need work
Friend and i are going to be doing this:
[img]http://puu.sh/8KiWQ.jpg[/img]
-snip-
-snip-
[QUOTE=AbioFlesh;44793421]I was thinking. Since possibly many items may not fit well, should I make versions of the TFC mercs unmasked/without helmets? The problem I see with that is, aside from the engineer probably, I don't know how they would look without their gear on.
Agree= yes
Disagree= no[/QUOTE]To me, the only way to properly play TF2 wity TFC models would be with the No Hats mod. If you want to redo all cosmetics to fit the TFC mercs be my guest, but that's how I'd do it. :smile:
[QUOTE=ElderLolz;44792684]I'll clean up all the images when I finished everything I planned, including extra images for the robotic boogaloo, and some promo packs (Deus Ex, Sleeping Dogs). But yeah, I'll clean up all the images when I finished all those things.[/QUOTE]
I don't know if this will help you or not, it's a guide I came up with for CS6 while doing Stylish Spy menu graphics. Following this step by step allowed me to get them at pretty much perfect quality, ~98% accurate to Valve's images. I used it with green screened images.
[code]
1. Color Range select green area.
2. Contract selection by 1 pixel.
3. In alpha channel, color in selection with full white, color entirety of image with a single brush stroke.
- You may need to do this on certain thin parts of the image without the contract command, if so repeat steps 1-2 and color in the thin part on the alpha channel-
4. Use Magic Eraser Tool with 100 tolerance, AA, and Contiguous, to automatically remove green background from image.
5. Use Selective Color and slide the Black slider to 100% on Green colors. Do this 6 times or as needed to darken remaining green areas.
6. Create a darkish background for your image, and flatten all layers onto it. By default use color #2A2A2A.
7. Save as DXT5 with no mipmaps and no level of detail.
Darkening the Greens will cause Zombie faces and hands to lose a lot of quality so be sure to paste the original back over it, and erase out only the very edges where the greenscreen was removed.
[/code]
[QUOTE=Pagliacci;44794916]swat
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/a7srYlv.png[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I vish to try this.
[QUOTE=Blaco;44795498]I don't know if this will help you or not, it's a guide I came up with for CS6 while doing Stylish Spy menu graphics. Following this step by step allowed me to get them at pretty much perfect quality, ~98% accurate to Valve's images. I used it with green screened images.
[code]
1. Color Range select green area.
2. Contract selection by 1 pixel.
3. In alpha channel, color in selection with full white, color entirety of image with a single brush stroke.
- You may need to do this on certain thin parts of the image without the contract command, if so repeat steps 1-2 and color in the thin part on the alpha channel-
4. Use Magic Eraser Tool with 100 tolerance, AA, and Contiguous, to automatically remove green background from image.
5. Use Selective Color and slide the Black slider to 100% on Green colors. Do this 6 times or as needed to darken remaining green areas.
6. Create a darkish background for your image, and flatten all layers onto it. By default use color #2A2A2A.
7. Save as DXT5 with no mipmaps and no level of detail.
Darkening the Greens will cause Zombie faces and hands to lose a lot of quality so be sure to paste the original back over it, and erase out only the very edges where the greenscreen was removed.
[/code][/QUOTE]
This method is pretty bad if you ask me. The difference method ensures no green leakage and doesn't conflict with green items. It also allows for translucent images.
[QUOTE=Smashman;44795725]This method is pretty bad if you ask me. The difference method ensures no green leakage and doesn't conflict with green items. It also allows for translucent images.[/QUOTE]
Ya I agree it's probably not the ideal solution, it's just what ended up working for me.
I'll see if I can find the tutorial I wrote on it. (Twice)
[editline]13th May 2014[/editline]
Essentially, you take 2 images of the same item but with a pure black and pure white background.
Then you paste both into the same PS document.
Change the blending mode of the top layer to Difference.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/897064/cutout%20tut/DifferenceMode.png[/t]
You'll see this
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/897064/cutout%20tut/BlackGlasses.png[/t]
Switch to channels mode
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/897064/cutout%20tut/Channels.png[/t]
Ctrl click on any layer, and then return to the default layers delete the content that you selected from one of the layers.
Delete the other layer and then you have a perfect cut out!
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/897064/cutout%20tut/PerfectCutout.png[/img]
Note that the glass is also semi-transparent.
[editline]13th May 2014[/editline]
It's worth noting that ensuring anti-aliasing is disabled when taking the screenshots also helps as it removes any chance of blending the background into the subject.
You can then size the images down slightly to fake an anti-alias.
[editline]13th May 2014[/editline]
[url]http://wiki.tf2.com/wiki/Painted_variants_(tutorial)#Setting_up_HLMV[/url]
There's some info on how to set up HLMV for highest quality.
Rather than
[code]"ConVar.mat_antialias" "8"[/code]
set it to 0 to ensure the best cut out.
[QUOTE=Pagliacci;44794916]swat
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/a7srYlv.png[/IMG][/QUOTE]
This gave me an idea, a Swat shield to go along with this set maybe?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Sm1EN92.jpg[/IMG]
Probably not this big but you get the idea.
If I am to make clothing for a character, say for example a jacket, do I model it over the already existing clothing or is there something I am missing?
[QUOTE=InfectedPotato;44794624]Anyone know how to rig feet so that it doesn't look broken?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/1LwkPd5.png[/IMG][/QUOTE]
If you're using 3ds max you can edit the envelopes and see a heatmap of how much each vert is effected. Otherwise i could rig it up. Problem is editing envelopes takes a while depending on how many points you need to edit. (im having difficulties with my tfc medi mask, being a balaclava and all makes following the medics head properly a timely process).
[QUOTE=Ax3l;44796076]Fairly certain BONK! made something like that once.
-snip-
Also this
-snip-
[/QUOTE]
Please not go about this again... We already established it in the last Emporium.
[QUOTE=TrevorTheJedi;44796231]Please not go about this again... We already established it in the last Emporium.[/QUOTE]
I can't say that I see what I did wrong. But alright.
[QUOTE=Ax3l;44796236]I can't say that I see what I did wrong. But alright.[/QUOTE]
People might feel disencouraged when somebody pops up all "Oh, somebody already made that before."
I'm sure you didn't mean it in a harsh way, but still - comments like those should be kept to oneself.
[QUOTE=Grandzeit;44796247]People might feel disencouraged when somebody pops up all "Oh, somebody already made that before."
I'm sure you didn't mean it in a harsh way, but still - comments like those should be kept to oneself.[/QUOTE]
I suppose so. I don't personally find it discouraging but rather a good way to make sure they don't look too similar so that the cesspool that is the workshop community decides to rant about "stealing" content.
[QUOTE=Ax3l;44796257]I suppose so. I don't personally find it discouraging but rather a good way to make sure they don't look too similar so that the cesspool that is the workshop community decides to rant about "stealing" content.[/QUOTE]
Think of it like this.
You're some douche bag, walking up to a guy with no legs and telling him that he's not allowed to get prosthetics because someone else invented legs first.
Are you a doctor? A Physiotherapist?
Are you the god of all modelling? Or the final boss of the TF2 workshop?
You're probably none of the above, don't be rude, let people make what they want, it's all good practice and fun.
I'm absolutely positive BANG! wouldn't care if someone made something similar to him, infact I don't think he invented riot shields either.
[QUOTE=AyesDyef;44796357]Think of it like this.
You're some douche bag, walking up to a guy with no legs and telling him that he's not allowed to get prosthetics because someone else invented legs first.
Are you a doctor? A Physiotherapist?
Are you the god of all modelling? Or the final boss of the TF2 workshop?
You're probably none of the above, don't be rude, let people make what they want, it's all good practice and fun.
I'm absolutely positive BANG! wouldn't care if someone made something similar to him, infact I don't think he invented riot shields either.[/QUOTE]
I never said he wasn't allowed to not make a model because someone else did something similar.
In fact, as I stated in my previous post, I very much encourage it.
No need to be rude about it.
Alright, I hope this looks better... pls vote to help us choose
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21260807/TF2/Scout_SurfBoard_08.png[/t]
Edit: I also talked to MrGibbly and I'll be doing his texture concept for the long surfboard version, soon...
[QUOTE=Ax3l;44796384]I never said that either.
No need to be rude about it.[/QUOTE]
I'm not the one being rude, I'm using a silly scenario, pretend stuff.
But, it's still not nice when you've come up with a cool idea or design, and someone seriously slaps you with your own idea just for being similar to another.
It's not encouraging in any manner, especially when you show them something that might be way better than what they thought up.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDuMp2kDxos[/media]
And with that, bed time, you guys can keep slapping each other without me or actually make cool items.
[QUOTE=AyesDyef;44796422]I'm not the one being rude, I'm using a silly scenario, pretend stuff.
But, it's still not nice when you've come up with a cool idea or design, and someone seriously slaps you with your own idea just for being similar to another.
It's not encouraging in any manner, especially when you show them something that might be way better than what they thought up.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDuMp2kDxos[/media]
And with that, bed time, you guys can keep slapping each other without me or actually make cool items.[/QUOTE]
I understand.
If it offended, I apologize. But it was in no way meant as discouragement.
The easiest way to have a flawless edge on alpha items:
1. Magic Wand with anti-alias enabled, highlight the flat background and delete it
2. Invert selection so you have only the stuff you want to keep selected (ctrl+shift+I)
3. Go to the alpha channel and invert colors (ctrl+I)
The anti-alias prevents any pixelated edges, and invert selection + invert colors perfectly complements the alpha so there's zero artifacts left behind on the edges.
on the topic, I'm all for people having creative freedom and modelling what they want and stuff, but taking items that already exist and trying not to come too close to them isn't a bad thing
I mean, with some things when it comes to it you're basically remaking something and watering down the chances of either thing getting into the game, which can mean sets not getting in properly etc
[QUOTE=Smashman;44795819]tut[/QUOTE]
Would masking do the job ? Which method is better ?
By the way, I realised my little offense earlier maybe caused my question to be forgotten.
[QUOTE=Ax3l;44796076]If I am to make clothing for a character, say for example a jacket, do I model it over the already existing clothing or is there something I am missing?[/QUOTE]
If anyone could answer my question I would be very happy.
[sp]Planning on doing a jacket, boots and a helmet with three different styles for the Scout. Been having this idea for a very long time now[/sp]
[QUOTE=Ax3l;44796597]By the way, I realised my little offense earlier maybe caused my question to be forgotten.
If anyone could answer my question I would be very happy.
[sp]Planning on doing a jacket, boots and a helmet with three different styles for the Scout. Been having this idea for a very long time now[/sp][/QUOTE]
You model slightly over the existing clothing then rig it to the bones that best fit like usual
[QUOTE=LightFlock;44796780]You model slightly over the existing clothing then rig it to the bones that best fit like usual[/QUOTE]
Thank you!
Edit: Got another issue. As usual
[t]http://i.gyazo.com/9fc3f423d1cd8f0c01366b489164bc88.png[/t]
Literally everything I make looks like it's made out of crumpled paper. How do I make things more straight? I can't go around pulling each individual vertex. And even when I've tried it always ends up looking the same.
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