• Creative Work That Doesn't Deserve A Thread
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really silly gif for a game concept document thing [img]http://filesmelt.com/dl/environment.gif[/img]
Extremely rough sniper, also a pencil man [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/g2eTHR2.jpg[/thumb]
[IMG]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/10543962013_9c060b7b02_c.jpg[/IMG] I had a quick idea (evolution of the US Military's helmet from WWII-2000's) for a picture which involved some photoshopping since I have only one M1 helmet. I took a picture of the three on the right, and then I took a another picture of the VN M1 helmet again, except I set it up as a helmet in WWII and put it on the left. How did I do for my first "photoshop" (although, I did it in Paint.NET)?
nevermind
A few haiku Hiding in my room Days and nights fleeting like dreams My mind is my tomb Screams of tyranny Random pain and fear and silence at meals Time passes silent As we worship what once was Losing all progress Stymied by my fears I never once had a chance Of finding myself Sky is filled with Stars But we are all looking down Staring at cell-phones Texting takes up time Occupying all young minds Hiding what matters
[img]http://25.media.tumblr.com/84160c4e20c69946db85790b4b94ce19/tumblr_mvepv9jDxg1sosrgro1_500.png[/img] fk i had the opacity low on some of the lineart
Hey guys, I dunno if you remember me posting a while ago, but I'm the guy that was tracing over that map in Gimp. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58470349/contintent%20traced%204.jpeg[/t] This ended up being the result, but I'm far from done with it and I need a bit of help. What I want to do, ultimately, is be able to "vectorize" the map and be able to scale it up and down as big or small as I need it to - so that I can draw extremely minute details ranging from mountain ranges to rivers to streets in a village. On top of that, I'd like to be able to use some sort of system similar to layers in Gimp/Photoshop where I could single out a single "country" (on a layer or something) or select multiple ones and have only them show up. Do you guys have any sort of suggestions as to what program(s) I could use to achieve this? Money is of no object, don't worry about that. I'd just like to get this done.
[QUOTE=Mandems;42679164]how about now? [IMG]http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/5719/yj5d.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] Don't try to add texture to the ground that way, don't smudge the background, don't blur the background, work from reference, focus on the three dimensional form of the hills and mountains, don't worry about blending your strokes too much. Don't outline the hills that way. Draw EXACTLY what you see, don't even allow yourself to think "hey, this probably wont look right if I draw it like it looks". It's a common beginner mistake, to draw something as you think it should look. Work on getting your values right first, work in black and white. No point in you trying to learn atmospheric perspective if you haven't mastered any of the basics yet. You want to work with something that has a very dynamic light source and geometry. examples [t]http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs7/f/2006/346/e/9/Speedpaint__Green_hills_by_I_NetGraFX.jpg[/t] [t]http://s.cghub.com/files/Image/626001-627000/626197/093_max.jpg[/t] [t]http://famouswonders.com/wp-content/gallery/machu-picchu/machu-picchu-late-afternoon.jpg[/t][t]http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2012/223/a/f/machu_pichu_photo_study_by_piercedraws-d5apgx9.jpg[/t] E: can someone who knows what they're doing tell me what exact settings they use for their brushes? I feel like I'm not doing something right.. Do you keep transfer on? Do you work with 100% opacity? Tell me EVERYTHING plz
[QUOTE=Unisath;42681402]Hey guys, I dunno if you remember me posting a while ago, but I'm the guy that was tracing over that map in Gimp. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58470349/contintent%20traced%204.jpeg[/t] This ended up being the result, but I'm far from done with it and I need a bit of help. What I want to do, ultimately, is be able to "vectorize" the map and be able to scale it up and down as big or small as I need it to - so that I can draw extremely minute details ranging from mountain ranges to rivers to streets in a village. On top of that, I'd like to be able to use some sort of system similar to layers in Gimp/Photoshop where I could single out a single "country" (on a layer or something) or select multiple ones and have only them show up. Do you guys have any sort of suggestions as to what program(s) I could use to achieve this? Money is of no object, don't worry about that. I'd just like to get this done.[/QUOTE] If you're going to splash out piles of money on software I would happy to save you some and work on it for you. I have lots of software (and very expensive gig tickets I just bought) and no money, so you might say this was preordained :v: Shoot me a PM if you're interested
[QUOTE=Lilyo;42682459]Don't try to add texture to the ground that way, don't smudge the background, don't blur the background, work from reference, focus on the three dimensional form of the hills and mountains, don't worry about blending your strokes too much. Don't outline the hills that way. Draw EXACTLY what you see, don't even allow yourself to think "hey, this probably wont look right if I draw it like it looks". It's a common beginner mistake, to draw something as you think it should look. Work on getting your values right first, work in black and white. No point in you trying to learn atmospheric perspective if you haven't mastered any of the basics yet. You want to work with something that has a very dynamic light source and geometry. examples -snip- E: can someone who knows what they're doing tell me what exact settings they use for their brushes? I feel like I'm not doing something right.. Do you keep transfer on? Do you work with 100% opacity? Tell me EVERYTHING plz[/QUOTE] I don't know what other people use but I usually just use a hard round brush, 100% opacity, with transfer on both flow and opacity. I haven't really gotten to using textured brushes yet. Also in general you want to paint on top of multiple layers, but you probably know that already..
[QUOTE=Lilyo;42682459]Don't try to add texture to the ground that way, don't smudge the background, don't blur the background, work from reference, focus on the three dimensional form of the hills and mountains, don't worry about blending your strokes too much. Don't outline the hills that way. Draw EXACTLY what you see, don't even allow yourself to think "hey, this probably wont look right if I draw it like it looks". It's a common beginner mistake, to draw something as you think it should look. Work on getting your values right first, work in black and white. No point in you trying to learn atmospheric perspective if you haven't mastered any of the basics yet. You want to work with something that has a very dynamic light source and geometry. examples [t]http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs7/f/2006/346/e/9/Speedpaint__Green_hills_by_I_NetGraFX.jpg[/t] [t]http://s.cghub.com/files/Image/626001-627000/626197/093_max.jpg[/t] [t]http://famouswonders.com/wp-content/gallery/machu-picchu/machu-picchu-late-afternoon.jpg[/t][t]http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2012/223/a/f/machu_pichu_photo_study_by_piercedraws-d5apgx9.jpg[/t] E: can someone who knows what they're doing tell me what exact settings they use for their brushes? I feel like I'm not doing something right.. Do you keep transfer on? Do you work with 100% opacity? Tell me EVERYTHING plz[/QUOTE] thanks, appreciate the feedback
[QUOTE=Doqqy;42683915]I don't know what other people use but I usually just use a hard round brush, 100% opacity, with transfer on both flow and opacity. I haven't really gotten to using textured brushes yet. Also in general you want to paint on top of multiple layers, but you probably know that already..[/QUOTE] Layering a digital painting isn't necessary. In fact as you develop your painting ability you may well find that you converge with traditional process, paint on few layers or just one, rarely use ctrl+z etc. [editline]29th October 2013[/editline] Using lots of layers is certainly not what I would recommend to Lilyo with his existing art background
[QUOTE=MakoSkyDub;42684020]Layering a digital painting isn't necessary. In fact as you develop your painting ability you may well find that you converge with traditional process, paint on few layers or just one, rarely use ctrl+z etc. [editline]29th October 2013[/editline] Using lots of layers is certainly not what I would recommend to Lilyo with his existing art background[/QUOTE] Sorry, I must've said it wrong, my bad. What I meant was layers in paint, not the digital layers you have in photoshop. When you paint you always paint on top of another layer of paint (Multiple layers). But if he has a background in art then he probably already knows that.
J. F. Christ asked me to stop by and say Hi to everybody! [img]http://i.imgur.com/eQES4pS.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/VavOFAu.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/ikSHmzA.jpg[/img]
You're so sexy
The train looks like the citadel or just very half life-ish
[QUOTE=Gauzemann;42685365]The train looks like the citadel or just very half life-ish[/QUOTE] ye p sure its based on the Razor Train
[thumb]http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss173/LeaveItToBinsky/2013-10-28_23-41-40_968_zpsca539d0b.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss173/LeaveItToBinsky/2013-10-28_23-41-33_323_zps0cd86fb7.jpg[/thumb] Making a fox and golden eagle for my sculpting class. Does anyone here no anything about clay sculpting? Any suggestions as far as anatomy/pose?
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7346219/Arts/car.jpg[/img]
Did a photoshoot of my friend for a project, and I'm deciding on what look to give her through Photoshop. Not sure if this is really the right place, but what do you guys think of this? I personally like the look of a paler skin on a white background with other elements in higher contrast. I think it works well for what I want to do, but I thought I'd get some other thoughts on it. Original shot: [img]http://oi40.tinypic.com/27zhlih.jpg[/img] What I've got so far editing: [img]http://oi40.tinypic.com/2129wz7.jpg[/img] Still needs to be cleaned up, I know.
Thought this was pretty cool. There's a new Banksy piece right outside my school on E23rd. He bought a painting from a thrift shop, painted a nazi into it, and brought it back. [t]http://i.imgur.com/hqLzePC.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Binsky;42689462][clay pictures] Making a fox and golden eagle for my sculpting class. Does anyone here no anything about clay sculpting? Any suggestions as far as anatomy/pose?[/QUOTE] What exactly do you want to know about sculpting? (I have a bit of clay experience) I mean, I can offer some basic tips based on what I see, but nothing specific. Regarding anatomy, as with anything you'll want a good reference, but get multiple pictures from different angles. I don't know much about fox anatomy, but I do know that the muzzle shape looks like a beak more than a snout (I thought you were making a griffin before I saw the text), the forelegs look too simple, and the body looks *just* slightly too long. That last one isn't too big of an issue, though. When you've got it propped up like that, you'll want to make sure that the little supports you have under its legs don't merge with the clay of the legs. They shouldn't do that unless your clay is really wet, but the best way to prevent that from happening altogether is to either use supports that are much more dry than what they're holding, or use supports that have already been fired and/or won't merge with the clay. The legs, and the tail especially, will be weak points once it is dried. Make sure your tail is strong; if it breaks off you can easily super-glue it back on [i]after[/i] it's fired, but it's still a bummer to have things break. The entire thing looks a tad bit lumpy, but that's easily fixed; assuming it's not dry now, get a finger, dip it in some water or slip, and rub the thing semi-gently until it's smoother. It'll look much better that way. Unless, of course, you intend to add hair details with a thin stylus or needle, in which case, that's not an issue at all. Like I said, I'm not familiar with fox anatomy so I could be wrong, but this is how I think the head should be: [t]http://i.imgur.com/A4U7DxE.png[/t]
[QUOTE=Meller Yeller;42690028]Did a photoshoot of my friend for a project, and I'm deciding on what look to give her through Photoshop. Not sure if this is really the right place, but what do you guys think of this? I personally like the look of a paler skin on a white background with other elements in higher contrast. I think it works well for what I want to do, but I thought I'd get some other thoughts on it. Original shot: What I've got so far editing: [img]http://oi40.tinypic.com/2129wz7.jpg[/img] Still needs to be cleaned up, I know.[/QUOTE] So I'm not a real photographer, but from my experience w/ a 101 course I don't think there's that much you can do in terms of using Photoshop to improve an image compared to actually changing the environment you took the photos in. [T]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4565878/facepunch/sample%20photo.jpg[/T] Right now I think you're just limited to balancing out the values of the photo, but if you have a chance to re-shoot I'd suggest working with multiple light sources, a reflector, or a different background. This is a bit irrelevant but I always found front/side lighting in combination with hard side/back lighting can speak volumes in term of presenting tone. [T]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4565878/facepunch/sample%20photo2.jpg[/T]
[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;42693048]What exactly do you want to know about sculpting? (I have a bit of clay experience) I mean, I can offer some basic tips based on what I see, but nothing specific. Regarding anatomy, as with anything you'll want a good reference, but get multiple pictures from different angles. I don't know much about fox anatomy, but I do know that the muzzle shape looks like a beak more than a snout (I thought you were making a griffin before I saw the text), the forelegs look too simple, and the body looks *just* slightly too long. That last one isn't too big of an issue, though. When you've got it propped up like that, you'll want to make sure that the little supports you have under its legs don't merge with the clay of the legs. They shouldn't do that unless your clay is really wet, but the best way to prevent that from happening altogether is to either use supports that are much more dry than what they're holding, or use supports that have already been fired and/or won't merge with the clay. The legs, and the tail especially, will be weak points once it is dried. Make sure your tail is strong; if it breaks off you can easily super-glue it back on [i]after[/i] it's fired, but it's still a bummer to have things break. The entire thing looks a tad bit lumpy, but that's easily fixed; assuming it's not dry now, get a finger, dip it in some water or slip, and rub the thing semi-gently until it's smoother. It'll look much better that way. Unless, of course, you intend to add hair details with a thin stylus or needle, in which case, that's not an issue at all. Like I said, I'm not familiar with fox anatomy so I could be wrong, but this is how I think the head should be: [t]http://i.imgur.com/A4U7DxE.png[/t][/QUOTE] Thanks for the input. It's definitely still in a rough form as of now. I will work on smoothing and finer details that you mentioned! I have armature wire under the structure so I shouldn't have too much problem with things falling off. I agree that the head looks a little off. I'll manipulate it a bit and see if I can make it look right
[QUOTE=Binsky;42693691]Thanks for the input. It's definitely still in a rough form as of now. I will work on smoothing and finer details that you mentioned! I have armature wire under the structure so I shouldn't have too much problem with things falling off. I agree that the head looks a little off. I'll manipulate it a bit and see if I can make it look right[/QUOTE] Fuck, you've got a wire armature [i]inside[/i] the clay? Sorry, but you're not going to be able to fire it. I mean, I guess there's nothing technically stopping you, but it's not a good idea. Clay and metal have different... I'm not sure what the term is, I think it's "thermal profiles". They expand and contract at different rates, at different temperatures. The clay expands and shrinks differently from the metal; I think metal retains heat and thus stays expanded for longer, meaning that the clay is going to want to shrink into a space that it cannot, and thus will crack. There may also be the issue of the metal itself; I once asked my instructor about having metal inside the kiln and he said that the metal would cast off impurities in the form of vapor or gases, and if you've got a wire skeleton inside there throwing off gas and vapor with nowhere to go, it's going to explode. To be fair, I've never made and fired a figure with a wire armature, so this is all second-hand info, but everything I've seen has advised me against it.
[QUOTE=Boone_Sedford;42693194]So I'm not a real photographer, but from my experience w/ a 101 course I don't think there's that much you can do in terms of using Photoshop to improve an image compared to actually changing the environment you took the photos in. [T]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4565878/facepunch/sample%20photo.jpg[/T] Right now I think you're just limited to balancing out the values of the photo, but if you have a chance to re-shoot I'd suggest working with multiple light sources, a reflector, or a different background. This is a bit irrelevant but I always found front/side lighting in combination with hard side/back lighting can speak volumes in term of presenting tone. [T]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4565878/facepunch/sample%20photo2.jpg[/T][/QUOTE] Yeah that kind of lighting looks great on men, but for women, the best kind of lighting is usually just to eliminate any and all shadow on the face. I only used one soft light and one reflector for this photo. I should have added another light so I wouldn't have to do so much work getting rid of said shadows though. I guess I can't really give a picture of what I need these photos for until I can show what I'm working on.
Something for a class assignment. [t]http://i.imgur.com/X3KVXeM.jpg[/t]
Photostudy, and if anyone wants a basic grayscale palette for b/w studies. I suggest starting with #5 as your background and drawing over that. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/o21QQ29.png[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/8DGEEg8.png[/IMG]
When I work in grayscale in photoshap I can just go into the colorpalette and set it as 50% grey so it's exactly perfectly in the middle. It makes the ideal background color. [editline]30th October 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=The Vman;42694969]Something for a class assignment. [t]http://i.imgur.com/X3KVXeM.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] That's awesome, pre-broken glass blood and shutters, I would totally kill to live in that room. Seriously feeling the atmosphere.
[QUOTE=Lilyo;42695857]Photostudy, and if anyone wants a basic grayscale palette for b/w studies. I suggest starting with #5 as your background and drawing over that. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/o21QQ29.png[/IMG][/QUOTE] Really reminds me of Maloof.
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