• Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
    5,003 replies, posted
Well, got the front of the stripe done on the '74, and I think it came out splendidly. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_160154_zpsny7arols.jpg[/IMG] Then back on the roof rack... I took a trip to Lowe's for the remaining hardware to mount the fairing to the front of the rack. I was thinking of just some fence post supports, and just my uck they had some that were about 6" long and only 3/4" wide so they would tuck under 4 of the sticks. I also got an "EZ-Lip" which is commonly sold on Ebay as such, and costs $30.00 to add a front spoiler to any car, or as I like to call it - garage door seal... availabe for $8.00 and comes with the same material. So weird... In fact if you look at the picture on the packaging you can see that someone installed a front spoiler on the garage door for some reason. This will allow the fairing to sit close to the roof, but not quite touch. The molding will take up the additional space. Then I got 4 bolt on hooks, I figure for conveinence, and they were only $0.79 a piece, then got the rest of my nuts, bolts, hardware etc... [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_183831_zpsiozolzgx.jpg[/IMG] I bolted the straps to the 2nd to last outrigging sticks, and the 4th to last. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_190103_zpsainy9ir9.jpg[/IMG] I then bolted the fairing to all of them, and bolted my hooks on to the outying sticks, one at each corner. This will be a good cargo net or bungee cord location if the need ever arises. The fairing doesn't quite go to the end because the bike carriers will be taking up the remaining space and stick forward of it a little bit. It's not going to be a super functional fairing as much as it is just to finish off the look. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_194935_zps5wf5ivus.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_203054_zpsfh6fgj00.jpg[/IMG] I also put on the garage seal, but the included spike fasteners are not working for this application, so I'll be swapping those out with stainless screws. Once it was bolted down, I flipped the whole rack upside down and put gradual pressure on each side of the fairing to bend it a little. I'm not sure how much it needs to be bent yet, as I am still waiting on the cross bars to get here, but this is a start and I wanted to see that I could actually bend it to fit, and the answer is - it's not going to be a problem. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_203951_zpsuwhpzmi3.jpg[/IMG] As of right now, I see no real need to put bolts in the 2nd holes of the brackets, as the 4 in it currently are way more than tough enough, and there's no flex of the board away from the bracket. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_204632_zpsgsyqdwrp.jpg[/IMG] Getting there.
The color and the theme is so damn perfect!
Anyone recommend a youtube channel like Haggard's Garage? I don't know shit about cars, and I am slowly learning, but haggard's garage is just fucking hilarious to some of the shit they do to their $900 cars. [video=youtube;1iZb-VMxssc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iZb-VMxssc[/video] Any other channels like this where teens just do the most stupid/cheap solutions?
lol my brother called me yesterday and goes dude I don't think I can fix the lincoln.....ok why the fuck not?........I can't get the hub bolt off :rolleyes: "uhhh dude there's a 36" breaker bar and a 6 ft pipe along with an oxy torch in the garage if you can't break it loose with that unpack my compressor and impact wrench surely to god you can figure it out from there"..........oh I can use those? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:......yes you can use those there's not 5 grand worth of tools in the garage for decoration.....The hell have you been using so far?.......The tools I got working at midas....for the love of god go open the tool chest if you can't find it in there you don't need it
[URL="http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/5075033283.html"]Should I?[/URL]
yes, yes you should barring any unforseen problems it looks like your average mustang rust so body work shouldn't be too bad the interior doesn't look too bad just dirty as fuck
Thinking about it hard, I don't really care what it looks like but if the 5.0 is as new as he says it is I'll be able to btfo any ricer pos's in my area anyway. Probably going to go take a look at it this weekend with my friend that's got a trailer. Will post updates
[QUOTE=iRex;48156172]Thinking about it hard, I don't really care what it looks like but if the 5.0 is as new as he says it is I'll be able to btfo any ricer pos's in my area anyway. Probably going to go take a look at it this weekend with my friend that's got a trailer. Will post updates[/QUOTE] yup that's one reason I like fox bodies/SN95's they can be made to go holy fuck fast with not a lot of dosh. My brother had a 94 mustang GT and before we turbo'd it he had a ported track heat intake lunati 51014 cam BBK TB and GT40P heads with 4.10 gearing and it would whomp the shit outta most anything
[url]http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/mcy/5103219678.html[/url] If only ii had mooooneeeeyyyyy Ooo there's a cx500 in the background of the 4th pic, looked pretty good. I kinda want to find another one with a toast stator for ass cheap and fix it.
[QUOTE=iRex;48156172]Thinking about it hard, I don't really care what it looks like but if the 5.0 is as new as he says it is I'll be able to btfo any ricer pos's in my area anyway. Probably going to go take a look at it this weekend with my friend that's got a trailer. Will post updates[/QUOTE] While the engine is "new" in terms of age, it's still the old 2 valve single cam 5.0. While parts are cheap, the 2v heads are a significant bottleneck in terms of power gains from mods when it comes to the foxbody/SN97 models. The 3 valve 4.6 and 4 valve 5.0s respond much much better to mods, but mods are more expensive. My co-worker had a SN97 GT, and he struggled to get any meaningful power gains from mods, whereas my S197 would squeeze way more power out of them. HOWEVER: This doesn't mean you can't make a foxbody with a 2v 5.0 fast. A stock foxbody only weighs 2,900 lbs. It's a lightweight car that can be made even lighter. If you want to fuck up ricers, lighten it farther (removing shit you don't need including the back seat, replace driver and passenger seat, no trunk carpeting, etc..), slap a turbo on it, put wider rear tires, and throw in a 3.73 or 4.10 rear end in it. Your power to weight ratio will end up higher, and the taller rear end increases acceleration, but the increased acceleration comes at the cost of top speed.
its an old school 302 right? if so why not intake,exhaust cam and fuel/ignition like you would with any other pushrod v8? and you can get aftermarket heads from say trick flow specialties
Does anyone know a decent site for Civic Si aftermarket parts? Procivic.com seems to be kind of shit. Not a wide selection and half of it is on backorder. (I have a 2013 if it matters)
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;48156625]While the engine is "new" in terms of age, it's still the old 2 valve single cam 5.0. While parts are cheap, the 2v heads are a significant bottleneck in terms of power gains from mods when it comes to the foxbody/SN97 models. The 3 valve 4.6 and 4 valve 5.0s respond much much better to mods, but mods are more expensive. My co-worker had a SN97 GT, and he struggled to get any meaningful power gains from mods, whereas my S197 would squeeze way more power out of them. HOWEVER: This doesn't mean you can't make a foxbody with a 2v 5.0 fast. A stock foxbody only weighs 2,900 lbs. It's a lightweight car that can be made even lighter. If you want to fuck up ricers, lighten it farther (removing shit you don't need including the back seat, replace driver and passenger seat, no trunk carpeting, etc..), slap a turbo on it, put wider rear tires, and throw in a 3.73 or 4.10 rear end in it. Your power to weight ratio will end up higher, and the taller rear end increases acceleration, but the increased acceleration comes at the cost of top speed.[/QUOTE] The heads may be a bottleneck but you can get a good set of GT40 heads and intake off of a ~1996 explorer for like $80 from a junkyard. Combine it with a cam and you're making 300hp at the crank easy.
[QUOTE=Serj22;48154438]Well, got the front of the stripe done on the '74, and I think it came out splendidly. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150708_160154_zpsny7arols.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE] I love that color with that stripe. Never thought you could put a shark on a car without it looking super cheesy but that looks great.
[QUOTE=Jalcober;48157082]The heads may be a bottleneck but you can get a good set of GT40 heads and intake off of a ~1996 explorer for like $80 from a junkyard. Combine it with a cam and you're making 300hp at the crank easy.[/QUOTE] Yup heads are about the least of your problems when adding power to a 5.0 GT40/GT40P heads and a suitable intake and barring that damn near everybody makes em to fit any application (ford racing,TFS,RHS brodix edelbrock,world products flo-tek,yates and more I'm probably forgetting) same thing with cams
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;48156625]While the engine is "new" in terms of age, it's still the old 2 valve single cam 5.0. While parts are cheap, the 2v heads are a significant bottleneck in terms of power gains from mods when it comes to the foxbody/SN97 models. The 3 valve 4.6 and 4 valve 5.0s respond much much better to mods, but mods are more expensive. My co-worker had a SN97 GT, and he struggled to get any meaningful power gains from mods, whereas my S197 would squeeze way more power out of them. HOWEVER: This doesn't mean you can't make a foxbody with a 2v 5.0 fast. A stock foxbody only weighs 2,900 lbs. It's a lightweight car that can be made even lighter. If you want to fuck up ricers, lighten it farther (removing shit you don't need including the back seat, replace driver and passenger seat, no trunk carpeting, etc..), slap a turbo on it, put wider rear tires, and throw in a 3.73 or 4.10 rear end in it. Your power to weight ratio will end up higher, and the taller rear end increases acceleration, but the increased acceleration comes at the cost of top speed.[/QUOTE] Seller says he already threw in a 3.75 rear end, some exhaust stuff etc. was actually planning on tearing out back seats already, mostly for storage purposes. Hyped to go this weekend, hopefully can talk him down a little bit.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48157036]Does anyone know a decent site for Civic Si aftermarket parts? Procivic.com seems to be kind of shit. Not a wide selection and half of it is on backorder. (I have a 2013 if it matters)[/QUOTE] Entirely depends what you are buying, I can list a few sites off the top of my head though. [url]www.jhpusa.com[/url] [url]www.thmotorsports.com[/url] [url]www.frsport.com[/url] [url]www.horsepowerfreaks.com[/url] [url]www.heeltoeauto.com[/url] [url]www.kingmotorsports.com[/url] [url]www.passwordjdm.com[/url] [url]www.icbmotorsport.com[/url] [url]www.hmotorsonline.com[/url] [url]www.summitracing.com[/url] [url]www.ebay.com[/url] - (usually has better prices sold by the same exact companies) If you're not pricing around for the parts you want, you're doing the internet wrong.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48158799]Entirely depends what you are buying, I can list a few sites off the top of my head though. [url]www.jhpusa.com[/url] [url]www.thmotorsports.com[/url] [url]www.frsport.com[/url] [url]www.horsepowerfreaks.com[/url] [url]www.heeltoeauto.com[/url] [url]www.kingmotorsports.com[/url] [url]www.passwordjdm.com[/url] [url]www.icbmotorsport.com[/url] [url]www.hmotorsonline.com[/url] [url]www.summitracing.com[/url] [url]www.ebay.com[/url] - (usually has better prices sold by the same exact companies) If you're not pricing around for the parts you want, you're doing the internet wrong.[/QUOTE] Thanks. I just needed a place to get started. All I've done to my car is a DC Sports SRI.
Went to get an alignment done since it was really fucked after replacing the tie rods. The mechanics bitched to me about how rusted things were. I paid these guys to bitch at [I]me[/I] for my rusty underside. Did they forget that I had to replace all that shit without a torch? Took them like 2 hours to get the alignment done. They charged me labor for 0.5. $120 total. Front office people were cool, the mechanics were assholes.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48158900]Went to get an alignment done since it was really fucked after replacing the tie rods. The mechanics bitched to me about how rusted things were. I paid these guys to bitch at [I]me[/I] for my rusty underside. Did they forget that I had to replace all that shit without a torch? Took them like 2 hours to get the alignment done. They charged me labor for 0.5. $120 total. Front office people were cool, the mechanics were assholes.[/QUOTE] Yeah. I remember a while back I went for brakes on a car with 50k miles at Mr. Tire. They came back with a quote for over $1,000 to totally replace all 4 calipers, rotors and a ton of other crap on top of the brake pads. I told them to fuck off and put my car back together. Went to Pep Boys and got new pads there for like $120. Mechanics at Mr Tire were assholes too and said I was putting my life in danger by not getting the work done. I ended up putting another 50k miles on those brakes until I sold the car. Life in danger my ass.
I was quoted for $1200 to replace only the passenger-side balljoints. I think I paid (all costs included) something like $350 to get where I am now. New uppers, lowers, and tie rods on both sides. Lowers need some grease still, but I'm waiting to wear them a bit. I guess I'll take my $850+ in savings and tell them to fuck off and do their job. After all this work I'm completely burnt out. I dont want to work on vehicles for a bit now.. and neither does my back. Theres now two things I will not do again with vehicles: water pumps and balljoints.
Shops drastically over-quoting services? On dearie me, who would dare even think of such a dire travesty?
Does anyone want to buy a 1972 270 Datsun? I am just watching this guy ruin his and I want to save it but already have a project ):
Already bought one lmao
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48159073]Shops drastically over-quoting services? On dearie me, who would dare even think of such a dire travesty?[/QUOTE] It's called being a shyster.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48159073]Shops drastically over-quoting services? On dearie me, who would dare even think of such a dire travesty?[/QUOTE] normally I'm ok with paying a shop to do work on my vehicle. They're pretty reasonable with pricing too. $1200 for two balljoints is just fucking stupid. I know that they jacked up the price too because it wasnt my normal shop where I have a rapport with everyone. Could have gotten it done for like $600 at my normal shop, but they're swamped right now
I made this picture in Gmod a few days ago and thought you guys might find it neat. [img]http://i.cubeupload.com/Br7YhG.jpg[/img]
So, after my Dad has been ragging on my boss and I for owning Chrysler products for the last year; my Dad finally traded in his '08 Accord for $10k and got a 2014 Jeep Wrangler.... It's even Torred. I couldn't stop giving him grief today about it.
[QUOTE=Minimole;48159701]I made this picture in Gmod a few days ago and thought you guys might find it neat. [img]http://i.cubeupload.com/Br7YhG.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] I know half of the models here came from my packs, but what is the source of that rusty car and red one on the right?
[QUOTE=RenaFox;48160011]I know half of the models here came from my packs, but what is the source of that rusty car and red one on the right?[/QUOTE] The rusty car is DanishMasters Volvo 850 with a rusty texture and the Red car is from Cry of Fear.
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