Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
If I had limitless money I would buy so many of their trucks.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48180549]2004 Crown Victoria with a RoushCharged 5.0 Coyote, 6R80X and 3.73 trac-lock rear end.[/QUOTE]
Why an 04 specifically?
[QUOTE=Lerlth;48168885]Hells yeah.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/AmqOcmY.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Hopefully you didn't pay more than 50-100$ for it.
I suggest you check the coupler for play (Grab the pulley and spin it on one side then to the other side. If it feels a bit loose, the coupler needs to be replaced.
(From the look of it, it looks like it was already opened and changed, since there's black RTV between the snout and the casing (Which shouldn've have been used, as you need to use an anaerobic sealant for that.))
Might as well change the oil in it, takes 6 oz of Supercharger oil (Nothing else, even if you read stuff about it on the internet.)
The BBV solenoid, don't bother about it for your set up.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48182771]Why an 04 specifically?[/QUOTE]
Cause I like the switches from that era more than the post-2009(?) recessed ones and the 04 was available with the delightful composite driveshaft and thus had the highest speed limiter: 140 MPH. It's got the post-2003 re-engineered chassis and suspension but has a year for the teething problems to be worked out. If you compare my 2011 to an 04 or earlier one, the panel gaps on the earlier cars are far tighter thanks to the fresher tooling.
[url]http://www.holmart.com.au/online/prod1782.htm[/url]
To push 1600kg of commodore into the 10's, what mods would do it for that engine? Cam and springs?
Ignoring the rest of the driveline ofcourse
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;48182813]Hopefully you didn't pay more than 50-100$ for it.
I suggest you check the coupler for play (Grab the pulley and spin it on one side then to the other side. If it feels a bit loose, the coupler needs to be replaced.
(From the look of it, it looks like it was already opened and changed, since there's black RTV between the snout and the casing (Which shouldn've have been used, as you need to use an anaerobic sealant for that.))
Might as well change the oil in it, takes 6 oz of Supercharger oil (Nothing else, even if you read stuff about it on the internet.)
The BBV solenoid, don't bother about it for your set up.[/QUOTE]
The oil had already been changed and new snout. But I basically payed $100 for it.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48182771]Why an 04 specifically?[/QUOTE]
It's also the last year before the fucking horrid drive-by-wire, so you get all of the updates with none of the "why is it taking 4 years to shift into third"
[QUOTE=Sonador;48183984]It's also the last year before the fucking horrid drive-by-wire, so you get all of the updates with none of the "why is it taking 4 years to shift into third"[/QUOTE]
But the 5.0 I'd be swapping in is DBW anyways so the engine in the 04 doesn't matter.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48184100]But the 5.0 I'd be swapping in is DBW anyways so the engine in the 04 doesn't matter.[/QUOTE]
Oh. Can't speak for the reliability of the DBW on your 5.0, but the OEM DBW on the 4.6's are fucking horrid.
I dunno how it didn't click that swapping the engine would have eliminated that problem, anyway. I need more coffee.
[QUOTE=Sonador;48184132]Oh. Can't speak for the reliability of the DBW on your 5.0, but the OEM DBW on the 4.6's are fucking horrid.
I dunno how it didn't click that swapping the engine would have eliminated that problem, anyway. I need more coffee.[/QUOTE]
It works just fine in mine. Throttle response feels very obviously slower than our mechanical PT Cruiser(my only mechanical point of reference) but it's not sluggish baby any means. They must have solved their problems between your year and 2011.
[QUOTE=Jackpody;48167742]If the mechanical oil pressure reads too low / basically nothing, then it's best not to run it at all. Parts won't be lubricated and you'll end up seizing the engine. How old is the Peugeot anyway? If it's a newer one, I'd honestly let a Peugeot dealership do it if it was up to me - oil and oil pressure are things to be dealt with using caution. Hope for it to be a faulty sensor.[/QUOTE]
It's an 04', nearest dealer is 2 1/2 hours away.
Not that it matters though, it wasn't the oil light, it was the fucking CEL, "Antipolution system fault".
Oh yes, finally got my car together after I painted it and I'm very pleased. I hope the quality is blurry enough to hide the orange peel :v:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/a29b75O.jpg?1[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/ITTuz1k.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/0pA0gkP.jpg?1[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/6nMrIHd.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/vKtdjfK.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/b4p7D9p.jpg[/t]
how the bumper was before. (I've already posted the other before pics)
yep so I loved painting this and I loved rigging up my ghetto-ass compressed air filtration system.
Probably won't paint another commodore, probably something smaller and cooler
So I check my dipstick and my cars engine oil is slightly over the "MAX" line.
Is this a really big issue or something I don't really have to worry about immediately?
(The engine oil still looks new so it doesn't really need changing)
It causes more stress on your gaskets and seals, but I don't think it's a huge issue. Did you warm the engine up before you checked it?
[QUOTE=Re1nhardt;48184774]So I check my dipstick and my cars engine oil is slightly over the "MAX" line.
Is this a really big issue or something I don't really have to worry about immediately?
(The engine oil still looks new so it doesn't really need changing)[/QUOTE]
a little over is nothing to worry about, if your car is old it is just going to burn it a little faster.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48184217]It works just fine in mine. Throttle response feels very obviously slower than our mechanical PT Cruiser(my only mechanical point of reference) but it's not sluggish baby any means. They must have solved their problems between your year and 2011.[/QUOTE]
I'd think you could tune it to make the throttle response better
[QUOTE=Gulen;48184470]It's an 04', nearest dealer is 2 1/2 hours away.
Not that it matters though, it wasn't the oil light, it was the fucking CEL, "Antipolution system fault".[/QUOTE]
Hooked up my Bluetooth OBD reader, P0300 Random misfire. Didn't go away when clearing it while running, cleared it with the engine off and it didn't reappear with a quick fire up.
Any ideas if this 280z is worth it? He doesn't know what's wrong and it's been sitting for a minimum of 2 years. All he knows is that it cranks.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/5103960446.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48183019]Cause I like the switches from that era more than the post-2009(?) recessed ones and the 04 was available with the delightful composite driveshaft and thus had the highest speed limiter: 140 MPH. It's got the post-2003 re-engineered chassis and suspension but has a year for the teething problems to be worked out. If you compare my 2011 to an 04 or earlier one, the panel gaps on the earlier cars are far tighter thanks to the fresher tooling.[/QUOTE]
I like my recessed buttons. All the older style buttons I've used have gotten all dirty and scummy and spongey. My vic does 140, its got the aluminum driveshaft. Was the composite driveshaft a standard option? Even with those in mind, I'd rather have a later one. The better instrument cluster that had a tach came 2008 I think, and a better intake in 2005 I believe. maybe 2004, in which case that point would be moot.
Im looking for my first car and I would like to get something that looks nice and that is cheap(fuel, insurance) so small engine(1.8 or less?). I love the JDM look, Civic Coupe, Eclipse, Silvia s14/15... But they all seem to be quite expensive on the insurance (the civic I guess because its mostly a race boy car) I have looked at mx5's and I have been tempted but I would rather a non soft top car even though its the car I have had the best insurance quotes for (even better than for a peugeot 1.4?!? )
Are there any other cars you guys might recommend?
Went to go view a Jag XKR-S today, I am willing to sell some non-vital organs for this thing.
[QUOTE=Sonador;48183984]It's also the last year before the fucking horrid drive-by-wire, so you get all of the updates with none of the "why is it taking 4 years to shift into third"[/QUOTE]
if I remember correctly, if you disable OD you can pretty much run 2 and 3 to redline before a shift if you pin your foot down
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48186422]if I remember correctly, if you disable OD you can pretty much run 2 and 3 to redline before a shift if you pin your foot down[/QUOTE]
when I had bought it, the wires to the o/d switch were cut just so the previous driver wouldnt do that. I fixed it, because the o/d disengage can also be used to avoid the 4-2 downshift if you floor it in 4th. Since it is actually going 4-3-2 without engaging 3rd, it goes like this: 1. foot down. 2. trans disengages and engine revs to 5-6k. 3. 2nd gear engages and you lurch foreward. I guess it doesnt happen to civilian transmissions, but the cvpi ones can get pretty worn out from it from what I hear.
[editline]12th July 2015[/editline]
Also, id like to note that the fire suppression light on my instrument cluster came on a few days ago. It scared me a little because I dont have that option, but the light went away so its all good.
[QUOTE=Kabstrac;48186469]If it is as clean as it looks, I'd say so. Working on old Datsuns isn't too bad, it's pretty easy to find mechanical parts for sale. I'd say go for it, I'd buy it in a heartbeat if it was here.[/QUOTE]
What do you reckon the issue could be? The fuel pump? Bad ignition coil?
Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I have space to park a non working car. What do you reckon it would cost for a shop to get it drivable?
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;48186774]What do you reckon the issue could be? The fuel pump? Bad ignition coil?
Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I have space to park a non working car. What do you reckon it would cost for a shop to get it drivable?[/QUOTE]
The problem is 1976.
It has a butt-ton of emissions garbage and a catalytic converter. There's a lot to diagnose to come up with a bad ignition coil or anything like that. I wrote the steps to procuring the answer to a no-start for I forget the user name - but he had/has an MR2.
The problem you face is you're not allowed to do anything to that car, because California. Have fun smogging it if you buy it.
Got a new oil cooler installed on my bike, really helps out. Quiets down the clackity ass valves and lifters.
I also got a new seat and rack.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/1n8PSCq.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=cNova;48178614]If you had the chance the choose a car and a engine combination, which would it be ?
I would want a Golf mk1/Jetta mk2 + 2JZ-GTE RWD of course[/QUOTE]
Im a bit late in this game here, but If I could id choose:
95' Accord V6 body with a Delta HF Integrale engine and drive-line or
79' Pontiac Catalina with an R33 VSPEC engine and drive-line.
The accord would be some fun for rally type stuff or to DD and the Catalina would be one killer sleeper, no one would ever expect it.
I am sooooooooooooo upset....so upset.
I was going to put my radiator in...it's the wrong one. I am currently in a Ebay battle
GUYS BE WARNED IF YOU HAVE A EP3 and are shopping for radiators on Ebay, watch the fuck out. Apparently EVERY SELLER that has radiators for sell will list that the hatchback ones will fit the standard ones, they don't. The top hose connector is on the wrong side, it should be on the opposite side as the bottom on, not the same. so now I am fucked out of finishing my civic today. :suicide:
Really thinking about throwing a chevy 350/w TH350 trans and mating it to a NP231 or an NVG241OR and putting that into the CJ. My girls dad has a mildly built 350 (375-400HP give or take) with trans just sitting collecting dust that he said we can have if we want it. also highly thinking of swapping axles I still have the spare 8.8 4.10 geared rear from my truck and gearing a D44 front in 4.11 ain't too difficult . It'll definitely make it into a frankenjeep but fuck it it's a mudtoy and a damn fun one at that
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