• Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
    5,003 replies, posted
Hey so what would y'all say is a fair price to sell the factory stereo in my truck for once I get my new one? It's a 2006 Ford F150 radio, AM/FM only no tape/casette. Model # DC2T-18K810-AA I'm seeing them new online ranging from $90 to $300 from various sources. Is it even worth it trying to sell it? I can't imagine anyone would want a stock radio.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47625133]Hey so what would y'all say is a fair price to sell the factory stereo in my truck for once I get my new one? It's a 2006 Ford F150 radio, AM/FM only no tape/casette. Model # DC2T-18K810-AA I'm seeing them new online ranging from $90 to $300 from various sources. Is it even worth it trying to sell it? I can't imagine anyone would want a stock radio.[/QUOTE] Yeah they aren't really desirable. I've been selling car parts for some time now and no one buys factory radios. But I'm sure clutch will have more to say about this.
[QUOTE=Slithers;47625364]Yeah they aren't really desirable. I've been selling car parts for some time now and no one buys factory radios. But I'm sure clutch will have more to say about this.[/QUOTE] Clutch seems to have a lot to say about everything :v: Do you run a shop for car parts or is it just something you do on the side? I've been wanting to try converting my f150's manual windows/locks to automatic. A dealership quoted me about $1500 oem parts & labor for both doors to do it but that seems awfully high.
Need some advice guys: fitted new KYB Excel-G shock front and rear on my Miata along with slightly updated/lower springs (these: [url]http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sport-springs-mazda-mx-5-mk1-set-of-4-new-1139-p.asp[/url]). Feels very unsettled now when it hits a pothole, but generally handles better. Decided to take a look at the shock/spring in place now it's all settled, and it seems like it's almost sitting on the bump stop. Did I fuck up? Some folks are suggesting Febi bump stops (these: [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400785423341[/url]) in place of the larger OEM ones. How much of the shock shaft should actually be visible? I'd have thought more than this? [img]http://i.imgur.com/1ipFgqUl.jpg[/img] Also bonus photo now I've cleaned her up a bit: [img]http://i.imgur.com/1HRBiKrl.jpg[/img]
Maybe those should be thumbed :pwn: well never mind now
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47625403]Clutch seems to have a lot to say about everything :v: Do you run a shop for car parts or is it just something you do on the side? I've been wanting to try converting my f150's manual windows/locks to automatic. A dealership quoted me about $1500 oem parts & labor for both doors to do it but that seems awfully high.[/QUOTE] I sell VW and Mercedes parts on the side with a friend of mine. It helps me pay for the upgrades I do to my car. I would say you could do that swap with junkyard parts, but you never see F150s in a yard, so you could buy the components and do it yourself. You will need new door cards and you will have to do some modifications to the wiring, but I'm sure Clutch can give you the step by step as he does shit like this for a living while I just swap sunroof pans and tinker with Bosch CIS.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47625403]Clutch seems to have a lot to say about everything :v: .[/QUOTE] He only usually speaks on the things he has had personal experience with so I belive he is a very reliable resource. He helps errbody out.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47626067]He only usually speaks on the things he has had personal experience with so I belive he is a very reliable resource. He helps errbody out.[/QUOTE] I'm not being snide
I just ask my favorite, and most reliable mechanic, YouTube
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47626205]I just ask my favorite, and most reliable mechanic, YouTube[/QUOTE] I can't really ask youtube "How much should it cost to get both doors in a 2006 Ford F150 regular cab pickup truck converted from manual locks/windows to automatic locks/windows"
Well it would give you parts... in then you could find prices. Gotta think outside the box here
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47626402]Well it would give you parts... in then you could find prices. Gotta think outside the box here[/QUOTE] I am so not mechanically inclined as far as vehicles are concerned. I don't have the slightest fucking clue where to start on trying to piece it together myself.
I can't speak for your Ford, but when I installed cruise control in my Saab, I had to undo three screws (literally the hardest part of the job, because I didn't realise two of them were hidden behind the steering wheel), pull some plastic off, take the old indicator stalk out and put the new in (plastic clips held it in place, one connector) put the plastic around the steering wheel coloumn back together, and boom.
[QUOTE=Gulen;47627064]I can't speak for your Ford, but when I installed cruise control in my Saab, I had to undo three screws (literally the hardest part of the job, because I didn't realise two of them were hidden behind the steering wheel), pull some plastic off, take the old indicator stalk out and put the new in (plastic clips held it in place, one connector) put the plastic around the steering wheel coloumn back together, and boom.[/QUOTE] That has literally nothing to do with power windows and locks though. Any car, your Saab included, needs you to disassemble the door and much more in order to add those.
If the f150 has factory 6disc then it's worth a fair amount. They're not reliable and old men love them, so good market for them. If its just cd, just hope to get lucky. A dealer will sell one for 600 or Jose on the corner has a pile from his family's trucks he'll trade for a 12 pack. All over the board.
The first step is start finding what plastic door clips you'll need to order to replace the ones that break getting the door cards off.
[QUOTE=Hexxeh;47625404]Need some advice guys: fitted new KYB Excel-G shock front and rear on my Miata along with slightly updated/lower springs (these: [url]http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sport-springs-mazda-mx-5-mk1-set-of-4-new-1139-p.asp[/url]). Feels very unsettled now when it hits a pothole, but generally handles better. Decided to take a look at the shock/spring in place now it's all settled, and it seems like it's almost sitting on the bump stop. Did I fuck up? Some folks are suggesting Febi bump stops (these: [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400785423341[/url]) in place of the larger OEM ones. How much of the shock shaft should actually be visible? I'd have thought more than this? [img]http://i.imgur.com/1ipFgqUl.jpg[/img] Also bonus photo now I've cleaned her up a bit: [img]http://i.imgur.com/1HRBiKrl.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] I read about people using Honda bumpstops on Miata forums when I was researching ebay coilovers. Those spring rates are also incredibly shitty for the amount of lowering, they definitely won't hold up the car from bottoming out the suspension all the time. What you're basically experiencing is that your suspension is now designed to be really soft for a couple inches but then rolls directly into the bumpstop and entirely limits suspension travel. You should also be running a dust boot although I'm totally unfamiliar in all the bits to a miata strut. I know some cars are designed to roll into the bumpstop all the time and usually a progressive bumpstop is used with those cars(post-92/93 hondas do this), they definitely aren't designed to roll directly into them though. For your ride height I would probably recommend a coilover along with a spring about 2-3x as stiff. It's going to get a ton stiffer and harsher and you're going to blow those shocks real quick but that's gonna happen either way with how it's sitting currently. Miata guys also always recommend to run the OEM bilsteins at a minimum. GR-2s are just a cheap decent OEM replacement for a OEM spring/height. I only used mine because my budget was about $50 for all new shocks and my rears were $10 for both used. Do a bunch of research into budget setups for your car along with spring rates and setups, there's a bunch of really specific things you have to know as some suspensions are different heights and stuff among the NA's. I don't remember, I'm a honda guy so the specifics escape me. I just spent 30 mins trying to drag up the info I posted when I was looking into ebay coilovers. Basically though what people were doing is using the OEM bilsteins and rebuilt/revalved ones, buying a honda ebay coilover set for dirt cheap then buying QA1 springs to put on them so they could customize their spring rates and lengths. Here's a few links, they should kinda put you in the direction of all that I found back then. [url]http://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/better-bilstein-ebay-coilover-thread-78451/[/url] [url]http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/my-cheap-miata-suspension-data-content/45604/page1/[/url] [url]http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=563094[/url]
[QUOTE=clutch2;47627217]If the f150 has factory 6disc then it's worth a fair amount. They're not reliable and old men love them, so good market for them. If its just cd, just hope to get lucky. A dealer will sell one for 600 or Jose on the corner has a pile from his family's trucks he'll trade for a 12 pack. All over the board.[/QUOTE] It's the am/fm with eq settings only
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47625133]Hey so what would y'all say is a fair price to sell the factory stereo in my truck for once I get my new one? It's a 2006 Ford F150 radio, AM/FM only no tape/casette. Model # DC2T-18K810-AA I'm seeing them new online ranging from $90 to $300 from various sources. Is it even worth it trying to sell it? I can't imagine anyone would want a stock radio.[/QUOTE] keep it, reinstall it if you ever sell/trade the vehicle.
I know im not the only one to say I like the stock radios in vehicles? They look clean, they fit the vehicle, and they dont have an assload of things I dont need, stupid lights being one of them.
I just saw the cleanest Panda Hatchback Trueno 86 in my whole life. Its like holy shit, stock everything, everything works, and the paint and detailing is so fresh that you'd think the car had just left the showroom yesterday. And what makes me feel stupid is the fact that the battery on my camera died just moments before I saw the car. Dammmmmn. Truenos are rare here, only the Levin was Australia-delivered, and most people would much rather use their money to import silvias, GTRs, GTTs etc etc.
Rate my Whip Plz[IMG]https://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/faq/review-glacier-cables-tire-chains-2014-honda-odyssey-pw1046_150.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47628915]I know im not the only one to say I like the stock radios in vehicles? They look clean, they fit the vehicle, and they dont have an assload of things I dont need, stupid lights being one of them.[/QUOTE] Same here, aftermarket radios are all just flashy flashy with bits of shiny plastic chrome and stuff that stick out from the dashboard. Shiny knobs irks me the most. They stick out like tumors.
[QUOTE=adam1172;47628973]Same here, aftermarket radios are all just flashy flashy with bits of shiny plastic chrome and stuff that stick out from the dashboard. Shiny knobs irks me the most. They stick out like tumors.[/QUOTE] That's why I like my 2din DVD. It has no knobs, no shiny things, I can adjust the colors to be not so wild, and I has all of the features I want, including SiriusXM with a 1 hour memory on all preset stations.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47628915]I know im not the only one to say I like the stock radios in vehicles? They look clean, they fit the vehicle, and they dont have an assload of things I dont need, stupid lights being one of them.[/QUOTE] I love the look of stock radios in older cars especially. I always think it's tacky to see some Sirius XM radio bolted to the dash in a 60s car.
Went to look at the Studebaker ,All I can say is Rust in Peace,he parked it under a pine tree with no cover for a decade and a half,it has all the problems I cant deal with in regards to my pontiac in addition to the new and exciting issues like 4 wheel siezed brakes ,siezed motor,every single knob and button being siezed,windows siezed,the oxidation is so bad he opened a door and it tore the carpet apart.
My '87 Volvo had a stock radio with stock switch equalizer, that thing kicked ass even compared to 90's and early 2000's radios.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;47628994]5/10 Slayers because it's a Honda, but it's lame. (FYI, all Honda's start off at 5/10 Slayers...) That's why I like my 2din DVD. It has no knobs, no shiny things, I can adjust the colors to be not so wild, and I has all of the features I want, including SiriusXM with a 1 hour memory on all preset stations.[/QUOTE] thanks man.... thats low as hell but w/e
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47628915]I know im not the only one to say I like the stock radios in vehicles? They look clean, they fit the vehicle, and they dont have an assload of things I dont need, stupid lights being one of them.[/QUOTE] If the stock radio has a USB or Aux port, I'll leave it in because it looks alright. If it doesn't, that shit is getting thrown in the closet and some (probably gaudy) USB radio is being shoved into its slot. I can't stand listening to radio ads and switching CDs is annoying, cassettes even more so.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47628915]I know im not the only one to say I like the stock radios in vehicles? They look clean, they fit the vehicle, and they dont have an assload of things I dont need, stupid lights being one of them.[/QUOTE] I need more than just "AM/FM" I pay $4/mo for Pandora I'm butthurt that I can't use it because I don't have a cassette deck or aux input
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