Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Slithers;47654063]Legally, they are not, even if they reside in the same exact place.[/QUOTE]
Well, legally, yes. But they literally sued "themselves" in what was it, 2011? I was curious because I have a cheap no name filter on my car, and was eventually going to get a "good" one but I believe AEM, K/N, and Spectre are all just using the exact same Chinese import goods, just with different packaging and a different ridge. There's no "engineering" going on and I'd wager to say that the same "ebay" kits for intakes and stuff that are super cheap are the exact same piece, just without the markup of a second hand. I'm wondering if Ebay/Spectre/AEM/K&N etc are all on the same quality level, yet people argue over "X" being better than "Y" because "Z".
Just a question of branding really. I'm not personally invested in finding the truth or anything, but it's more of a curiousity.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47654187]Well, legally, yes. But they literally sued "themselves" in what was it, 2011? I was curious because I have a cheap no name filter on my car, and was eventually going to get a "good" one but I believe AEM, K/N, and Spectre are all just using the exact same Chinese import goods, just with different packaging and a different ridge. There's no "engineering" going on and I'd wager to say that the same "ebay" kits for intakes and stuff that are super cheap are the exact same piece, just without the markup of a second hand. I'm wondering if Ebay/Spectre/AEM/K&N etc are all on the same quality level, yet people argue over "X" being better than "Y" because "Z".
Just a question of branding really. I'm not personally invested in finding the truth or anything, but it's more of a curiousity.[/QUOTE]
Aside from K/N's reusable cleanables, yes you're pretty much correct. I just buy OEM filters (German cars use MANN)
[QUOTE=Slithers;47654194]Aside from K/N's reusable cleanables, yes you're pretty much correct. I just buy OEM filters (German cars use MANN)[/QUOTE]
I have belived in MANN for along time.
I put new shocks on my truck.....
Put... Monroe 911050 on the front and MA764 on the back.
In other words... I put overkill air shocks on the back for towing...
Tomorrow I will see how much weight she can take to the hitch and still sit level.
[editline]jfnjfbn[/editline] I will need a onboard compressor and gauge.... Eventually.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47654455]Oh man.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4998046581.html[/url]
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/5001831396.html[/url][/QUOTE]
I like the first body style more, I always thought it would be hilarious to stuff a 2JZ pretty much directly into that truck. Make something that would literally just turn the rear tires into smoke on command, like Roadkill's Muscle truck but Japanese :v:
[editline]3rd May 2015[/editline]
Second one seems like a really good truck if you want to keep putting work into it, smog exempt and has a really nice driveline.
Those Toyo Pickups look handy and awesome all in one.
I tore into my NSX today for a few little bitties. First off was adding an Ipod input, because tape deck adapters blow, and this one spits the tape out every time you turn the car off. Unforgivable. I used a hardwired FM transmitter in line with the antenna I had laying around, and ran an Ipod A/V cable into it, coupled with a hardwired cigarette lighter USB charger hidden behind the dash. It leaves me a cable that comes out near the side of the seat and play and charges and is generally just what I wanted!
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20003_zpsrjtqowkg.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20003_zpsrjtqowkg.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
There was a legit handwritten name of who tested/check my climate control unit at the factory in Japan
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20002_zps88a0zl9r.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20002_zps88a0zl9r.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
While it was apart I had to fix this annoying orange filter that had come out of place on the radio, too
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20004_zpswuxbnmeb.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20004_zpswuxbnmeb.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Popped the face off the radio and extracted the orange filter for cleaning
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20005_zpszs1cc8aj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20005_zpszs1cc8aj.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Next up was inspection of the non-functioning climate control unit. The fan only blows on 'HI'. Huge issue with every NSX ever built ever. The capacitors leak and cause much damage internally on the unit.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20013_zpswitbkf61.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20013_zpswitbkf61.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
My capacitors are in need of replacement, but overall the damage doesn't look critical. The pics I took blow, though.
You can see the board is a little darker around the cap here. That's from the junk inside of it starting to penetrate and eat the PCB.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20010_zpsyovsi2k3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20010_zpsyovsi2k3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Time to order caps. There's a guy in my state that rebuilds them (he's done hundreds!) for $150, but I'm a DIY kinda guy, and I'd like to try and fail first if nothing else.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47654400]I have belived in MANN for along time.
I put new shocks on my truck.....
Put... Monroe 911050 on the front and MA764 on the back.
In other words... I put overkill air shocks on the back for towing...
Tomorrow I will see how much weight she can take to the hitch and still sit level.
[editline]jfnjfbn[/editline] I will need a onboard compressor and gauge.... Eventually.[/QUOTE]
Do yourself a favor and put each shock on its own air system. I did the onboard compressor and it was useless seeing as I left it at 70lbs and that was that. I also routed a left and right air system. Also ensure that neither line runs near exhaust. I had one get melted being about 6" away from the pipe and caused the rear end to drop.
I got one of [URL="http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-P5000UB"]these[/URL] laying around that I removed out of shitbox I had before it went to scrap. Its from 2007. Was going to craigslist it, but people will probably think its stolen.
I have all the pieces too. Faceplate, bracket, connectors, etc.
Clutch I'm just so happy for you you don't even understand!
People on craigslist won't CARE if it's stolen, lol. It's a little dated, but still a nice 'classic' pioneer, someone's bound to want it.
And thanks tosh. As much as it blows to drain a large majority of your hard earned money into a car, it's still cool to stand back and go 'yup, I worked hard for this damn thing, and it's pretty cool'. Still sinking in in little bits here and there.
Me and a friend took it to a little party for the big boxing fight yesterday, and a lady at a stoplight yelled over 'nice car!'. Then we got to the party before the guy who was hosting it got there, and he pulled up and freaked out, saying how his jaw hit the floor when he came home to an NSX in the driveway. It's like driving a Ferrari in looks, but not being worried about it burning to the ground because it's an italian piece of crap.. instead it's a Japanese built Honda that *should* be relatively trouble free. Then after the fight we left and cruised home to some jazz-hop music, and my friend was like 'dude, I feel like we're back in highschool'. That's what it's all about.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47654777]Do yourself a favor and put each shock on its own air system. I did the onboard compressor and it was useless seeing as I left it at 70lbs and that was that. I also routed a left and right air system. Also ensure that neither line runs near exhaust. I had one get melted being about 6" away from the pipe and caused the rear end to drop.[/QUOTE]
Oh... shit...
Is it bad that my airlines and bag/shock are within a fist width from my exhaust 90* Dump.
Ohhh well... I guess.. Lifetime warranty!
We will find out when I start losing pressure....
And the reason why I want the onboard is because it sits at factory height @ 45psi, I hook up my enclosed with all its batteries and ear and she sits at factory height at 60psi (750lbs tongue weight).
I know I have alot of testing ahead of me to even want to keep these shocks.... As they fell like their going to cause more issues than what they are worth..... The boots also look like a uncircumcised penis.
Since ya'll are professional insurance adjusters I'm boutta drop a scenario for ya'll.
Picture this: Its a 3 lane road, sitting at a 3 way intersection. 2 lanes are for a left turn, 1 lane straight. I'm sitting in the farthest right turn lane, since I'm merging off the perpendicular road we're turning onto. Mr. Hyundai, as we will call him, is sitting in the farthest left, inner turn lane... Well, he's sitting in the intersection, but farthest to the left (besides the point, just saying he ain't thinking right). Right then and there I knew I had to watch out for him. Light turns green, we begin to make the turn, and I bet you know exactly what happens next. Yup, comes right into my lane mid-turn and hits into the rear quarter panel of my car, starting from the wheel well to the rear tail-light. I even saw him coming and attempted to accelerate hard and swing wide, but only had so much room, and I drive a slow honda so didn't get very far. (I included a diagram I made because what else do I have to do, now that my car is sitting at my local bodyshop for an estimate.)
We pull into a gas station because the intersection was a major one, and there was no shoulder so staying there would be a darwin move. NOW, I don't want to hear it. Don't tell me how stupid I was because I know its the first thing your gonna nit pick. We did NOT call the police and file a report. I had to GOOOO, I have an overnight delivery job and if I'm late there are NO OTHER DRIVERS to take my route, and I'd be fired then and there, which is much worse than complicating a car accident with minimal damage by not filing a report. Plus, around here if theres no injuries or property loss your lucky if a cop will even grace you with his presence.
We take pictures of eachothers cars and damage, license plates included, and exchange insurance info. As soon as we do this he pulls the "din do nuffin" switcheroo and says I came into his lane and cut the corner. Not only did I NOT go into his lane, I swung the opposite way out of my lane to avoid this incompetent individual! I asked him why he was sitting fully in the intersection just out of curiosity and he said he was checking his GPS and wasn't paying attention, which probably was exactly why he hit me, being he probably needed to change lanes and didn't see me there because I pulled up to the white line properly which was in his blind spot. Or he just struggles to calculate vehicular trajectory and miscalculated his vector and landed on my beautiful, unmolested rear quarter panel.
So here I am, telling the insurance company he came into my lane, there he is saying I went into his. And here's Mr. Hindsight sitting on my shoulder whispering in my ear how much a cheap dashcam would had saved me this whole situation.
Take a look at the picture of the damage on our cars. Considering he has damage to his front bumper, and I have damage to the rear corner of my car, since there is a discrepancy of who caused the accident, won't I rightfully so have leverage being he hit the rear area of my car? My fear is a 50/50 split, which then means my shiny, beautiful clean insurance record now will be blemished as my poor honda civic. Its to my understanding based on this damage an insurance adjuster SHOULD be able to reconstruct how the accident went down? There is also slight damage to my rim as well, just some little chips to the spokes from his car hitting it.
[url=http://imgur.com/tU9m2EM]The dreaded intersection of doom, my car is the black one, Mr. Hyundai is the grey[/url]
[url=http://imgur.com/kUuQ4t7]Yeah my cars dirty, but I'd rather keep it that way now[/url]
[url=http://imgur.com/vdJFsnp]Notice how his car is already f'd up? Yeah the entire car was a giant dent, so he obviously doesn't learn. The missing bumper is probably from another "victim"[/url]
Oh, and even IF its at 50/50, couldn't the insurance company deny him claim, being the bumper already had pre-existing damage? The damage caused from this bombshell only caused the scratched bumper, and caused his bumper to warp outwards.
There is no way in hell your insurance company (and likely his) will believe it's your fault. The location of the damage to your and his cars makes it obvious he drove into you, not the other way around. Especially considering which lane you were in.
[QUOTE=clutch2;47654752]Those Toyo Pickups look handy and awesome all in one.
I tore into my NSX today for a few little bitties. First off was adding an Ipod input, because tape deck adapters blow, and this one spits the tape out every time you turn the car off. Unforgivable. I used a hardwired FM transmitter in line with the antenna I had laying around, and ran an Ipod A/V cable into it, coupled with a hardwired cigarette lighter USB charger hidden behind the dash. It leaves me a cable that comes out near the side of the seat and play and charges and is generally just what I wanted!
There was a legit handwritten name of who tested/check my climate control unit at the factory in Japan
While it was apart I had to fix this annoying orange filter that had come out of place on the radio, too
Popped the face off the radio and extracted the orange filter for cleaning
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234047/5315%20005_zpszs1cc8aj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234047/5315%20005_zpszs1cc8aj.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Next up was inspection of the non-functioning climate control unit. The fan only blows on 'HI'. Huge issue with every NSX ever built ever. The capacitors leak and cause much damage internally on the unit.
My capacitors are in need of replacement, but overall the damage doesn't look critical. The pics I took blow, though.
You can see the board is a little darker around the cap here. That's from the junk inside of it starting to penetrate and eat the PCB.
Time to order caps. There's a guy in my state that rebuilds them (he's done hundreds!) for $150, but I'm a DIY kinda guy, and I'd like to try and fail first if nothing else.[/QUOTE]
If you need to replace any of the lights in the dash and switches I've gone through hell with my Integra and learned what works where. Hondas do not use #74 bulbs, anywhere. There's a ton of different bulbs in places that people refuse to even believe are wrong. With the NSX being amber, many of those bulbs will have to be halfass painted like I did or you'll have to get reamed from the dealer on $5 bulb condoms.
[editline]3rd May 2015[/editline]
Oh also do you still have the super fancy Monel key?
[url]http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/General/nsxkeys.htm[/url]
So far all the bulbs are working, knock on wood (it's not a GM, so that's probably why, haha)
I forsee trouble with your predicament, masterwolf. It sucks but that damage could go either way. If he was stupid and merged into your lane while you were in front of him, that's what could happen there. BUT if you were in front of him and merged into HIS lane then the damage would be about the same. With no witnesses or cameras there's no way to tell (unless there's tiremarks on the road?? I'd go check)
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47654643]I like the first body style more, I always thought it would be hilarious to stuff a 2JZ pretty much directly into that truck. Make something that would literally just turn the rear tires into smoke on command, like Roadkill's Muscle truck but Japanese :v:
[editline]3rd May 2015[/editline]
Second one seems like a really good truck if you want to keep putting work into it, smog exempt and has a really nice driveline.[/QUOTE]
The first one is appealing because it's stock and practically looks new. The other one looks like it would be a pretty sweet street machine. Honestly all it needs left to pull off the look is a nice air dam.
Ah, what to do.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47654936]The first one is appealing because it's stock and practically looks new. The other one looks like it would be a pretty sweet street machine. Honestly all it needs left to pull off the look is a nice air dam.
Ah, what to do.[/QUOTE]
Depends on what you want it for, if you don't plan to modify it and possibly have mechanics work on it. I'd pick the first. If you want a truck that you could possibly finish restoring and further build, pick the second for sure.
I'm leaning towards the second initially but I inquired about both. What do you think is a fair price for the second one? I'm thinking 4k is a bit steep. It's pretty nearby too. I recognize that park he took the picture in.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47654455]Oh man.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4998046581.html[/url]
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/5001831396.html[/url][/QUOTE]
I would personally buy the 75, because the 81 needs to be smogged every damn year. No thanks. Also the 1975 you are allowed to do anything to the motor, including swap it. 81 not so much. Other states are different, but that's how I'd go.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47655134]I would personally buy the 75, because the 81 needs to be smogged every damn year. No thanks. Also the 1975 you are allowed to do anything to the motor, including swap it. 81 not so much. Other states are different, but that's how I'd go.[/QUOTE]
CA is literally hitler when it comes to emissions
[editline]3rd May 2015[/editline]
I have to take an invasive species knowledge test through the DNR to have registration on the boat. Its new this year. Damn zebra muscles and eurasian watermilfoil
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47654976]I'm leaning towards the second initially but I inquired about both. What do you think is a fair price for the second one? I'm thinking 4k is a bit steep. It's pretty nearby too. I recognize that park he took the picture in.[/QUOTE]
He's probably assuming people will low ball, 3500-3800 seems fair if it looks as good as or better than in the pictures. Picture 1 looks like there's front end damage while picture 9 looks super clean but picture 12 shows rust on the tailgate.
It really depends on the shape of the paint and cosmetics because that truck with a decent 5 speed and a rebuild motor will be pretty solid.
While the 1st truck looks like a toyota pickup, it runs and drives and when bits fall off and stop working you replace them :v:
[QUOTE=Serj22;47655134]I would personally buy the 75, because the 81 needs to be smogged every damn year. No thanks. Also the 1975 you are allowed to do anything to the motor, including swap it. 81 not so much. Other states are different, but that's how I'd go.[/QUOTE]
smog is every other year
[url]http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/5006362245.html[/url] because of the couple of chrysler slant 6 fans in here.
Also looking at options for what i can do with my New Yorkers 440 with not a hell of a lot of money I can push the power up to 500 someodd horses with a more aggressive cam some ,freer flowing exhaust, and a 6 pack induction system.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6FDPS-78WU[/media]
Here you go, clutch!
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47655259]CA is literally hitler when it comes to emissions
[/QUOTE]
Didn't Hitler love poisonus gasses though?
[QUOTE=Ldesu;47656110]Didn't Hitler love poisonus gasses though?[/QUOTE]
he reduced carbon dioxide emissions pretty greatly though.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;47656213]he reduced carbon dioxide emissions pretty greatly though.[/QUOTE]
If you really want to get into this disgusting topic, the emissions created from both the furnaces and the industry to manufacture the gasses used far, FAR outweight the carbon emissions of 6 million human beings.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47654019]1 and 2 may have the same answer. SO let me try.
1 is that boat parts are expensive, and a boat is technically an unecessary luxury. Being in water makes things go bad faster than usual - metal, wood, etc...
2: How difficult? Relatively easy. The real problem is the cost of the transmission and cooling properties. You need to find a way to pump raw water into the engine's cooling jacket, and then expell it outside the boat, or find a heat exchanger that will pump raw water next to a coolant system and cool the engine with fresh water.
Then you need a velvet drive or marine transmission. Expect to pay about $2,000 or more. Then you'll need to find a shaft that effectively works for the engine, mount the engine at a specific angle that allows the shaft log to come out at the same spot it originally did, then find a prop with a size and pitch that will make the boat run effectively.
Now you also need to cool the exhaust with raw water as well, which will require a marine type set of manifolds, which you may have to make depending.
If you want to ignore all the technical work, the people in Bangkok Thailand have the answer for you with the water taxis, they are literally just big American V8's strapped to the back of a boat that looks completely unsafe, but they work apparently. They have a long-ass prop shaft and the engine is angled to compensate.
[video=youtube;_53wHhqdUNY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_53wHhqdUNY&hd=1[/video]
if you do it the thailand method, you need no other parts than a fuel tank really.
[editline]4th May 2015[/editline]
The problem is not which is better, the problem is they claim to be better than eachother when they appear to be... the exact same company.[/QUOTE]
Damn, that's a fuckin V8 go-devil (a popular surface drive here in the swamps).
I think while that may be true for they types of boats Serj deals with, down here, we don't have any issues owning boats because we don't usually get inboards or anything like that. We will usually get something like a bass boat or bay boat with an outboard motor. And really, the majority down here have custom aluminum boats with outboard motors. For example, my dads aluminum boat really needed only one major repair in 15 years. That was a new outboard motor because one of the cylinders got a chip in it and it wouldn't run right. So we replaced the old 75hp 2 stroke yamaha with a new 90hp 4 stroke yamaha and it's back to running great.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;47655610][url]http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/5006362245.html[/url] because of the couple of chrysler slant 6 fans in here.
Also looking at options for what i can do with my New Yorkers 440 with not a hell of a lot of money I can push the power up to 500 someodd horses with a more aggressive cam some ,freer flowing exhaust, and a 6 pack induction system.[/QUOTE]
The 6 pack of more of a gimmick than it is an actual high performance mod. They are a bitch to tune properly and cost and arm and a leg for the performace you get. Get an alumimum air-gap dual plane (need the torque for the heavy car), some longtube headers, and a good mechanical secondary holley 850. A good cam will also make a load of difference, as will some victor max wedge aluminum heads. All of the above said and done with the stock slugs (10:1 i think?) your looking at 550+ hp for under $3000.
Just do a intake/exhaust/carb/+ cam if you have cash left and it'll be a whole new car.
[editline]4th May 2015[/editline]
Alright without serj bashing me again, I'm just looking for another oppinion on this bike before i go look at it
[url]http://m.kijiji.ca/street-cruisers-choppers/moose-jaw/1980-harleydavidson-sportster-ironhead-1000/v?adId=1046569666&locationId=1700195[/url]
New shocks, new seals, brakes, lights, wiring, sprokets, hand controls, paint job, entirely rewired with a new harness. I'd be pulling a lot of the chrome off, but for $4000 do you think its fair for a 1980 ironhead?
[editline]4th May 2015[/editline]
Also what should I check/look for?
Thanks!
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