Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47682472]What do y'all do for work that you can afford to do all this car stuff as a hobby?[/QUOTE]
I work as an IT tech for a local school district
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47682472]What do y'all do for work that you can afford to do all this car stuff as a hobby?[/QUOTE]
Steam Workshop stuff for DOTA and TF2.
Literally the only day it had to work, this happens
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi1GBNe7LC8[/media]
This is the first time it has ever broken down since I bought it. Guess that's pretty good.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47684312]I restore and rebuild plank for plank - classic anf antique boats. In the interim when there was no clients for two years, I worked for a shitty company doing new facility constructions and working on a 15 year old wooden roller coaster. I was a high climb carpenter. That junk only paid $18/hr+benefits. It was nice having approved paid sick days though.
Im also a member of the United Brotherhood of Carpenters recognized as a journeyman finish carpenter.
Basically, I build pretty stuff.
I do 12v installs as well, but for friends, and more for fun. I focus mainly on stealth enclosures and completely hidden systems. No ones ever asked for much complexity. Mostly head unit and amplifier installs and then they want a big storebought untuned box to rattle the plates cause they dont care.
Also mustang sally, I know enough about mopar to drive a dart. I dont know bout dem bigblocks. I gots my slant and 318. I know zactly how much power those two put out. Youll alsl be happy to know that I found a new mopar engine to drop in to my '68. Its.... another slant six. Ill be moving it to the shop to take it apart in my down time. Im going to wiseco the whole deal (rods/pistons/pins), comp cam, replace oil pump, get the crank ground, new bearings , basically full rebuild. Then dropping the block off at beavis machine to hone. I want to try and go .030 over. I think its more than doable and then get pistons to accomodate. Then im bolting on the head I have now as its already shaved .080 and port and polished. If I have monet left over ill do oversized valves and machine for those with bigger springs. I think its be pushing 225 n/a and maybe 300 once the turbo's back on. Trying to keep it under $1, 000[/QUOTE]
You would think for what it costs converting to 318/360 and then carrying over the turbo stuff off the slant would be a much better end result. Much more power, maybe 2-4mpg less, and more potential for power. Get some shorties and flip them forward, route to either twins (little more money but you could get away with using the same turbo off the slant, just one more) or a big single to a blow through. Easier said than done.
If your on a budget for a slant build and knowing you you have your heart set on a slant, focus your budget on good pistons, headstuds if you can get them, and a wideband O2 sensor. Your biggest power gains will be im tuning the set up to be more efficient and able to run more boost. Have you looked into a fuel injection set up? Or maybe a aluminum 4 barrel intake if you can find one.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47682472]What do y'all do for work that you can afford to do all this car stuff as a hobby?[/QUOTE]
Just keep it 100 you know.
[QUOTE=Del91;47683595]With dynamat, or other sound insulation you almost can't hear the sub outside the car.[/QUOTE]
I can barely hear the sub in the Subaru even when I'm even right beside it while it's just idling
OEM subs are pretty cool, for what they are. Good sound without all that ghetto-fab shit. My dad's 8th gen Civic had one, easily the best music I've listened to in a car.
i got my car serviced
it was $1100
brakes are expensive :(
[QUOTE=Ldesu;47683522]I guess you too have never heard a properly tuned sub in a car.[/QUOTE]
Probably not. When I've had contact with subs its because they're stupid loud and overpowered pieces of shit that drowned out the treble
[editline]8th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=dbk21894;47686267]i got my car serviced
it was $1100
brakes are expensive :([/QUOTE]
wat
$1100? Unless they're race brakes or something that sounds kinda high.
Also for work I'm a field IT support guy, don't get many hours though so can't do much to my car.
I'm the sort of It that sits at a computer all day doing tickets
[QUOTE=dbk21894;47686267]i got my car serviced
it was $1100
brakes are expensive :([/QUOTE]
dick turpin the mechanic
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47686391]I'm the sort of It that sits at a computer all day doing tickets[/QUOTE]
How much does that pay? I could get into that. I could work that while working my normal job.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;47686267]i got my car serviced
it was $1100
brakes are expensive :([/QUOTE]
...no
No they really, really are not
Dude if you paid $1100 for JUST brakes you got played so fucking hard.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47686440]How much does that pay? I could get into that. I could work that while working my normal job.[/QUOTE]
Its entry level for a hospital, so not much. Good oppertunities to move up later though.
all around set of discs +pads for me costs like £200 and its not like theyre hard to fit
DbK has a big boat of a bimmer 7 series so it probably requires a bunch of propriatery tools
[QUOTE=Serj22;47684312]Also mustang sally, I know enough about mopar to drive a dart. I dont know bout dem bigblocks. I gots my slant and 318. I know zactly how much power those two put out. Youll alsl be happy to know that I found a new mopar engine to drop in to my '68. Its.... another slant six. Ill be moving it to the shop to take it apart in my down time. Im going to wiseco the whole deal (rods/pistons/pins), comp cam, replace oil pump, get the crank ground, new bearings , basically full rebuild. Then dropping the block off at beavis machine to hone. I want to try and go .030 over. I think its more than doable and then get pistons to accomodate. Then im bolting on the head I have now as its already shaved .080 and port and polished. If I have monet left over ill do oversized valves and machine for those with bigger springs. I think its be pushing 225 n/a and maybe 300 once the turbo's back on. Trying to keep it under $1, 000[/QUOTE]
I don't really think that the slant is a extremely popular turbo platform, even less of one that's expected to do anything else other than go down the track fast and not fall apart each run. I'd research the kind of upgrades import motors and other popular N/A to turbo motors like Honda motors. I did some research into what people do to turbo a couple platforms which my buddy owned for the hell of it and among all Toyota Pickups/Tacoma 4 cylinders there was a very startling trend of them blowing apart bottom ends due to weak rod bolts but absolutely never using ARP bits or anything of the sort that wasn't stock. Shotpeened rods and some ARP fasteners make a larger difference than you'd think. Another thing which people often like to do is ARP main studs which I know that while most people ignore this on Honda blocks you have to get align honed because of how the metal endcaps react under higher pressure against the aluminum mains of a Honda motor.
Also be extremely are of the piston and wrist pins you choose. Most higher compression pistons are always sold with a weaker wrist pin that's not intended for boost. You need to find a wrist pin which will support your application as when people started trying to go for higher compression boost builds instead of lowering it to the point it's a piece of shit for boost much of what's offered while supposedly stronger can break even easier than a oem part would. There's a lot of little things which are easy to overlook, just be aware that the way a lot of people do it is not always the right way really. Much of the car world is stuck in the past dicking around with FMU's, piggybacks and shit which are total garbage compared to the off the shelf stuff we have that rivals what F1 cars basically had 5-10 years ago.
I wanna see you megasquirt it someday or run it off E85 :v:
If you guys do the math $1100 sounds realistic for his situation.
Assuming he got pads and rotors all around, its probably 2-4 hours labor @ 120hr because dealership.
he has some expensive ass bimmer if I remember correctly, oem german bullshit giant brakes are expensive.
They probably have $100 wear sensors on them too or some bullshit lol.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47684671]You would think for what it costs converting to 318/360 and then carrying over the turbo stuff off the slant would be a much better end result. Much more power, maybe 2-4mpg less, and more potential for power. Get some shorties and flip them forward, route to either twins (little more money but you could get away with using the same turbo off the slant, just one more) or a big single to a blow through. Easier said than done.
If your on a budget for a slant build and knowing you you have your heart set on a slant, focus your budget on good pistons, headstuds if you can get them, and a wideband O2 sensor. Your biggest power gains will be im tuning the set up to be more efficient and able to run more boost. Have you looked into a fuel injection set up? Or maybe a aluminum 4 barrel intake if you can find one.[/QUOTE]
Glad you understand me. Yeah I'd be running a 4 barrel and then a Holley 390 modified for boost just like this 350. ARP headstuds ( yes they have them) and copper headgasket, and o-ring the block. I already have a 02 running on the current setup. It's tuned well, but it's stock internals, so I'm leaving it at 10psi and that's that. I would like to run a regular boost level of about 15-20psi and leave it there, some kind of cam dedicated for turbo, not sure if that means I want a longer duration or not than stock, and I plan to advance the cam about 1 notch when I put it back.
Electronic ignition would be nice, but you're talking about 1,000 more dollars in a ECU and all the necessary crank triggers and whatnot. I like the idea of blowing through a carb.
If I ever decide to go full EI it won't be with a slant, it will be with a SRT-4 Turbo 2.4. Yes, I would go smaller. I could probably pull 25mpg and 350+ horse with that thing.
[editline]8th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47687373]I don't really think that the slant is a extremely popular turbo platform, even less of one that's expected to do anything else other than go down the track fast and not fall apart each run. I'd research the kind of upgrades import motors and other popular N/A to turbo motors like Honda motors. I did some research into what people do to turbo a couple platforms which my buddy owned for the hell of it and among all Toyota Pickups/Tacoma 4 cylinders there was a very startling trend of them blowing apart bottom ends due to weak rod bolts but absolutely never using ARP bits or anything of the sort that wasn't stock. Shotpeened rods and some ARP fasteners make a larger difference than you'd think. Another thing which people often like to do is ARP main studs which I know that while most people ignore this on Honda blocks you have to get align honed because of how the metal endcaps react under higher pressure against the aluminum mains of a Honda motor.
[/QUOTE]
The slant six is not technically a platform for turbo from the get-go. But the advantage mine has is a lot of forged internals, so the stock reciprocating assembly will stay together at low boost. It kind of likes it actually. It's also a lot of fun to drive. But like above if I ever do swap, it'd be a srt-4. And if I were to swap something weird, I'd go for a K-24/k-20 hybrid sleeved with 15psi, or a 2jz twin turbo. But that's if I go off the "ya cant do anything that aint dang mopar" ledge. But I think as we've all seen, I like being different.
Sold my Pontiac what a waste of money it turned out to be in the end,lessons learned I guess.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;47686267]i got my car serviced
it was $1100
brakes are expensive :([/QUOTE]
*BMW brakes are expensive
[QUOTE=Xanadu;47687796]*BMW brakes are expensive[/QUOTE]
*Any vehicle's shoes and repacked bearings are expensive.
Ask me how I know.
it was rear pads and rotors, that bit was about $900
rest was an oil change, cabin air filter and vehicle check
[editline]8th May 2015[/editline]
I could have had it done at an indie for $500, but an indie won't give me a loaner car and I only have one car...so....
We have people wait in the office for shit like that. takes 1.5hr tops to do all that which id totally love to make $400 in lol. But if you got money spend it, I dont have money and I spend it so who am I to question it.
my dealer is 5 minutes from my office, my indie is an hour+ from my office
yeah, it only takes an hour and a half to do the actual service, but add two hours for travel, that's almost half a day
can't do that
Aye! So on CL there's a guy selling a 1998 Dodge Caravan. Runs and drives. Exact engine and transmission I need. $500. No title. Should I pounce on this?
[QUOTE=Lerlth;47688329]Aye! So on CL there's a guy selling a 1998 Dodge Caravan. Runs and drives. Exact engine and transmission I need. $500. No title. Should I pounce on this?[/QUOTE]
If you're buying it for parts, sure? .. if you're buying it for use, hell no.
[editline]8th May 2015[/editline]
People on reddit seriously just recommended people not carry cash to a private auto sale over the fear of civil forfeiture.
People are not this stupid, right? People seriously cant believe that.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47688353]If you're buying it for parts, sure? .. if you're buying it for use, hell no.
[/QUOTE]
Parts only. I need the engine and transmission for my 89 Daytona engine swap project. 2.5L to 3.8L. The van has 214K miles on it. I'm doing an engine rebuild on it eitherway. Still not sure if I should do it. It'd be ~$320 to get the stuff I need to get from a scrap yard.
[editline]7th of April[/editline]
What the hell is this...
[URL]https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4995580528.html[/URL]
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47688353]If you're buying it for parts, sure? .. if you're buying it for use, hell no.
[editline]8th May 2015[/editline]
People on reddit seriously just recommended people not carry cash to a private auto sale over the fear of civil forfeiture.
People are not this stupid, right? People seriously cant believe that.[/QUOTE]
I bring a extra guy, a car hauler, and guns. AR for passanger, with a conceal carry p226 and I conceal carry a bodyguard. Havent had a issue yet...
But... when I step onto my property I end up shooting stupid shit like tvs and stuff..
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