Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47694414]Hey what were you guys saying about increasing the performance and fuel economy of my truck? Y'all said add a cold air intake and take out the catalytic converter to make it a straight pipe right?[/QUOTE]
You wont get better MPG's out of your truck by doing that. Trucks and MPG just dont mix (unless you got a 2015). Just dont drive like an idiot and you'll get what its rated for. You could try to hypermile, but it probably wont work.
If you have any type of inspection, dont remove the cat. Completely anecdotal: blazer doesnt have one and I havent seen any positive or negative effects from it. Just trips the O2 sensor, but that was fixed via nonfouler. Its just not worth it with newer vehicles that need the cat for engine performance.
Aaaa mofucking yiss, the W108 lives again. Ever heard of this before? Defective plug from the factory. They were even nice Bosch plugs. Put in some NGK BP6ES and now it runs better than ever. Glad it was that easy to solve.
Here's a picture of the old plugs, I should probably figure out why it's running rich.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/THLgILI.jpg[/t]
(The dirt is just from us laying them on the ground, they're trash anyway). Granted, I did start it like 4-6 times cold when I was trying to diagnose the 5 cylinder issue.
Any of you guys good at paint stuff? I have oem style plastic sideskirts that need to get painted, and Fiberglass rear bumper pieces that also need to get painted. I was wondering what grit I should sand with before spraying them.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;47695492]Any of you guys good at paint stuff? I have oem style plastic sideskirts that need to get painted, and Fiberglass rear bumper pieces that also need to get painted. I was wondering what grit I should sand with before spraying them.[/QUOTE]
I don't know much personally, besides what MCM has in their paint related videos. Really useful for the times I've done some quick painting on the Slaab.
[video=youtube;LHA0jhp3CSM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHA0jhp3CSM[/video]
Speaking of the Slaab, did an oil change on it yesterday. The oil in it was positively disgusting. When the oil settled in the pan I had it in, there was what looked to be dirt in it. :v:
My transmission had absolutely no oil in it though, god knows how long I went with it like that. :v:
But with those done and a new Ignition coil put on it, and all of its vacuum leaks sealed (Just about any place that could leak was) the thing rocks. So much better to drive, and it takes off in the low end.
[QUOTE=danjee;47694695]drive tenderly
don't[/QUOTE]
I drive like a maniac and get 14mpg so it's already fairly decent.
[editline]10th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47694725]You wont get better MPG's out of your truck by doing that. Trucks and MPG just dont mix (unless you got a 2015). Just dont drive like an idiot and you'll get what its rated for. You could try to hypermile, but it probably wont work.
If you have any type of inspection, dont remove the cat. Completely anecdotal: blazer doesnt have one and I havent seen any positive or negative effects from it. Just trips the O2 sensor, but that was fixed via nonfouler. Its just not worth it with newer vehicles that need the cat for engine performance.[/QUOTE]
Dunno when I'd ever get an inspection, but ok.
What about cold air intakes & aftermarket mufflers. What would you recommend?
[QUOTE=Stiveno;47695492]Any of you guys good at paint stuff? I have oem style plastic sideskirts that need to get painted, and Fiberglass rear bumper pieces that also need to get painted. I was wondering what grit I should sand with before spraying them.[/QUOTE]
I always go to 320 at the minimum. If you leave it at 180 itll definitly look like ass. If you go 220 you may see scratches. If you prime and paint with a rattle can and then clear within an hour it actually turns iut pretty good. Thats how I painted my center console. Turned out bitchin. Or go get a touch up gun from harbor freight for $10 and lay it down. Dont try to shoot por15 through one though. It turns out like ass no matter how clean the tip is or how well adjusted.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47695958]I always go to 320 at the minimum. If you leave it at 180 itll definitly look like ass. If you go 220 you may see scratches. If you prime and paint with a rattle can and then clear within an hour it actually turns iut pretty good. Thats how I painted my center console. Turned out bitchin. Or go get a touch up gun from harbor freight for $10 and lay it down. Dont try to shoot por15 through one though. It turns out like ass no matter how clean the tip is or how well adjusted.[/QUOTE]
I have no problem sanding considering I went all the way too 2000 with those lips, just wasn't sure what to use. Thanks.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47694725]You wont get better MPG's out of your truck by doing that. Trucks and MPG just dont mix (unless you got a 2015). Just dont drive like an idiot and you'll get what its rated for. You could try to hypermile, but it probably wont work.
If you have any type of inspection, dont remove the cat. Completely anecdotal: blazer doesnt have one and I havent seen any positive or negative effects from it. Just trips the O2 sensor, but that was fixed via nonfouler. Its just not worth it with newer vehicles that need the cat for engine performance.[/QUOTE]
Only trucks that get good mileage are the diesels, i got 20-21 mpg on my 24v cummins and it isnt unheard of to get 24-27 with twin turbos and some other mods
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47694698]I don't think his radiator is factory vintage parts, even if it is I have no idea why anyone would want it unless it was for a all original car and it was in literal brand new shape. I'm positive that he could get all new quality parts and clamps for his turbo setup, to catch cans, hoses, oil coolers, intercoolers and heat wrap. Mishimoto makes parts like all of those and not a whole lot more. None of these come stock on any car and if they do you're replacing it with custom parts.
I'm not personally a fan of their thermostats and fan switches, they try to market all of their parts as better than OEM and what not when those two in particular can cause some havoc with a stock ECU and in general not run very well as intended unless you specifically need those parts in a very modified application.[/QUOTE]
I figure the radiator isn't the only factory part that's been replaced (if it was factory to begin with). Personally I intend to keep the original parts for whatever car I end up with in storage, if there are any. I dunno if that's "weird" but I figure it would improve the value of the car in the future, plus it gives me a supply of fallback parts if anything aftermarket fails.
Another meetup
[t]https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/11145247_880558205342580_6919858195227494518_o.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47695884]I drive like a maniac and get 14mpg so it's already fairly decent.
[editline]10th May 2015[/editline]
Dunno when I'd ever get an inspection, but ok.
What about cold air intakes & aftermarket mufflers. What would you recommend?[/QUOTE]
Guy...
Do we have to hold your hand?
Like I said. K&N Drop in filter.
>take out the catalytic conveter and make it a straight pipe.
NO. Take out the original cat. Weld in a magnaflow hi-flow, cut out your resonator and muffler. find price of muffler pipe to fix hole were your resonator use to be. Get a nice mangaflow or flowmaster and weld it in were your muffler was.
[QUOTE=Jackpody;47695461]Aaaa mofucking yiss, the W108 lives again. Ever heard of this before? Defective plug from the factory. They were even nice Bosch plugs. Put in some NGK BP6ES and now it runs better than ever. Glad it was that easy to solve.
Here's a picture of the old plugs, I should probably figure out why it's running rich.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/THLgILI.jpg[/t]
(The dirt is just from us laying them on the ground, they're trash anyway). Granted, I did start it like 4-6 times cold when I was trying to diagnose the 5 cylinder issue.[/QUOTE]
I told you how many times that Bosch plugs are shit and that the classic center recommends NGKs?
On a sidenote, I use NGK BP6ES plugs in mine
[QUOTE=Stiveno;47695492]Any of you guys good at paint stuff? I have oem style plastic sideskirts that need to get painted, and Fiberglass rear bumper pieces that also need to get painted. I was wondering what grit I should sand with before spraying them.[/QUOTE]
If you're actually sanding something down then you should go with 120/240 depending on what you're sanding down. If you're just scratching the surface then go for the the finest grit you can get (from like 600 to 3000). If you have deep scratches you wanna remove from the original surface then you sand them down with 120, then work your way up the grit steps (120 to 240, then 320, then 600) to sand down the previous grit's scratches as they will show very well depending on the color.
[QUOTE=Slithers;47697318]I told you how many times that Bosch plugs are shit and that the classic center recommends NGKs?
On a sidenote, I use NGK BP6ES plugs in mine[/QUOTE]
I see on most high compression applications NGK's get recommended...
And "anything that fits" works on most older american vehicles.
But yeah, NGK's on Audi. It went threw some Bosch ones within a week from running too rich...
So, I went to check the tie rods on the MR2 because I remember hearing a clunking when we were driving it from the front right wheel, and I believe that inner tie rod is bad.
I guess I have to fix that before I get it inspected..good thing it's getting registered tomorrow and it will have a 10-day inspection!
herewego.jpg
I think the factory plugs in my Charger were Bosch plugs which one of the six had the ceramic stripped off and another had the ceramic crack alongside the lateral electrode being bent towards where the ceramic had chipped.
All at 70k miles. I don't remember what I threw back in it though.
[QUOTE=deathmog;47697973]So, I went to check the tie rods on the MR2 because I remember hearing a clunking when we were driving it from the front right wheel, and I believe that inner tie rod is bad.
I guess I have to fix that before I get it inspected..good thing it's getting registered tomorrow and it will have a 10-day inspection!
herewego.jpg[/QUOTE]
I didnt need to get my New Yorker inspected because its not an out of province car,but its been off the road for since 1980 maybe,glad it was kept in a heated garage.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47697309]Guy...
Do we have to hold your hand?
Like I said. K&N Drop in filter.
>take out the catalytic conveter and make it a straight pipe.
NO. Take out the original cat. Weld in a magnaflow hi-flow, cut out your resonator and muffler. find price of muffler pipe to fix hole were your resonator use to be. Get a nice mangaflow or flowmaster and weld it in were your muffler was.[/QUOTE]
Yes hand holding is nice. Like I said I'm a CARPENTER.
I'll save this and do these things
Alright guys. After much planning. It has begun.
This:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tz88zgc.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/adGXBTz.jpg[/t]
Into This:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/R48ZRgG.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/wpWwEjV.jpg[/t]
Good luck!
also if anyone here with an AW11 has any insight to replacing the wiper linkage bushing closest to the motor please let me know
if your bushing hasn't broken yet then hope it never does because oh my god this bushing is the worst thing about this car
I did stuff.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG0554.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG0558.jpg[/t]
Now to manufacture my stinger / winch / FUCK ALL THE SHIT bumper.
Gonna make it out of 4.5" Sch 80 Pipe.
And the rest 11ga / 3/8" Flat for the winch plate.
Attended the 4x4 season opener this weekend here in Ottawa. Finally got to really try out the new tires and lift -
[t]http://i.imgur.com/VdXyeYT.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OhbiOXZ.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;47683810]If I had a powerful sub then half my interior would fall off with a little bit of bass[/QUOTE]
The OEM toolkit in the trunk actually fell of because the vibrations slowly unscrewed it. :v:
[url]https://www.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/35hztg/i_am_an_idiot_and_rendered_my_maserati_inoperable/[/url]
i...i just dont know anymore
You know.. I've never though about that. How do you guys with keyfobs open the trunk when it's dead? Haha.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;47699031]Alright guys. After much planning. It has begun.
This:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tz88zgc.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/adGXBTz.jpg[/t]
Into This:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/R48ZRgG.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/wpWwEjV.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
You're putting a 3.8L V6 from a minivan into a Dodge Daytona?
What's normally in one of those?
[editline]10th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Lerlth;47699668]You know.. I've never though about that. How do you guys with keyfobs open the trunk when it's dead? Haha.[/QUOTE]
The key? My 2003 Honda Odyssey (before I traded it in) had a keyhole on every door even though it had power locks.
[editline]10th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47699625][url]https://www.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/35hztg/i_am_an_idiot_and_rendered_my_maserati_inoperable/[/url]
i...i just dont know anymore[/QUOTE]
What the ever loving fuck
Why wouldn't you just weigh down the trunk door with something heavy for fucks sake? What compels you to slam the door on a god damn power cord?
[QUOTE=Lerlth;47699668]You know.. I've never though about that. How do you guys with keyfobs open the trunk when it's dead? Haha.[/QUOTE]
For the Dodge keys, they have vanity keys hidden in the fob you can pull out of the fob to use on the front two doors and the trunk lid.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47699677]You're putting a 3.8L V6 from a minivan into a Dodge Daytona?
What's normally in one of those?
[/QUOTE]
For the 89 Daytona it had a few options. Normally these will have a 2.2L or a 2.5L, and maybe have a turbo package (T1, TII, TIII). The 1990-1993 had a 3.0L Mitsubishi engine. From 1984-1989 they all shared the same motor mounts. While the 1989.5-1993 used the larger motor mounts seen today. I believe my Daytona has the smaller kind, so I'll be swapping motor mounts.
The power ratings are normally so for this car:
2.5 N/A: 100HP & 140ft/lbs
2.5 Turbo: 150HP & 170ft/lbs
For the 90:
2.5 Turbo II: 174HP
3.0 Mits: ~160HP
There was also a 24v 2.2L Turbo III motor which made 220HP (the same as a 318 small block V8).
The donor van is a 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport with a 3.8L.
It makes 180HP and 240ft/lbs. I just love torque.
Fucking A, I have done nothing to the motor or anything and now the damned MR2 doesn't start.
I fixzxed my phodo's. She so purdy.
I have to do final fitment stuff tomorrow. The headlights are pointed WAAAAY to high with no adjustment and the air thingy on the bottom wont allow the grill to go all the way back.
The issues you run into trying to retrofit shit into old shit.
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