Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
I just bought my first car, probably not the best as far as gearheads are concerned but its a 2012 VW Passat SE with 30k miles, how long can I make it last with proper maintenance and what not?
[QUOTE=Bomber9900;47712963]I just bought my first car, probably not the best as far as gearheads are concerned but its a 2012 VW Passat SE with 30k miles, how long can I make it last with proper maintenance and what not?[/QUOTE]
With proper oil change intervals -about 2 or 3 weeks.
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47712777][url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/5003695507.html[/url]
I just really want a mini truck thing..[/QUOTE]
Get a 1959 El Camino -Most beautiful mini truck thing of all truck things.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47712944]You sure that didn't fall into the 5mph/$1000 damage rule? They set forth a rule where cars would have to withstand a 5mph crash while only sustaining less than $1,000 in damage. Thus bumpers started moving forward, and I believe having them unpainted made it a lot cheaper to replace to be part of the rule. I'm thinking the European spec ones are painted correct? So that would be why, not to be cheap, but to comply with the U.S. damage laws. Also I'm not sure if it was $1,000, maybe it was 500. I don't know.[/QUOTE]
I find it difficult to believe that it would be that much more expensive to paint the bumper, especially considering that the significantly larger bumpers on Cadillacs and such still had fuckloads of (fake) chrome.
[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bb/1977-1979_Cadillac_Coupe_de_Ville_front.jpg[/t][t]http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3328/4921/33319960033_original.jpg[/t]
my car has unpainted bumpers, im thinking about painting them though.
p.s. I started cleaning up some rust
[t]http://i.imgur.com/xJ3a3rB.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/8uHTiDT.jpg[/t]
not seen in pics is the trunk lid i did a little too and the other big rot hole I grinded and painted, but needs filler and im lazy and it got dark
bonus 240 pic
[t]http://i.imgur.com/mWwBqGQ.jpg[/t]
I know I'm late (Work has sucked this week so far), but I saw an article with a Twin-turbo 6.0L Cummins in a Honda Civic. Ricer Level: Redneck?
[QUOTE=Saber15;47712993]I find it difficult to believe that it would be that much more expensive to paint the bumper, especially considering that the significantly larger bumpers on Cadillacs and such still had fuckloads of (fake) chrome.
[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bb/1977-1979_Cadillac_Coupe_de_Ville_front.jpg[/t][t]http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3328/4921/33319960033_original.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Right but if you look, either bumper would work on either car, no custom painting needs to be done to the bumper if you bought a new one, so no paint work is involved in a repair. You just buy a bumper, and put it on - it makes the repair cheaper.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;47713052]I know I'm late (Work has sucked this week so far), but I saw an article with a Twin-turbo 6.0L Cummins in a Honda Civic. Ricer Level: Redneck?[/QUOTE]
THE 6 LEAKER IS A POWERJOKE, NOT A CUMMINS!!
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
And to serj: my cousin runs 235s in his dart and it rubs with too many people, I knew you couldnt run a 10" wide tire tho. Is your rear axle ofset by any chance? My cousins has more room on one side versus the other.
i think tucking a 225 in and lowering the car a bunch would have a better effect and look than jacking it up to fit a 235/245
[QUOTE=Serj22;47712944]You sure that didn't fall into the 5mph/$1000 damage rule? They set forth a rule where cars would have to withstand a 5mph crash while only sustaining less than $1,000 in damage. Thus bumpers started moving forward, and I believe having them unpainted made it a lot cheaper to replace to be part of the rule. I'm thinking the European spec ones are painted correct? So that would be why, not to be cheap, but to comply with the U.S. damage laws. Also I'm not sure if it was $1,000, maybe it was 500. I don't know.[/QUOTE]
Idunno about other cars but E30 euro-spec bumpers aren't painted. [url]http://i.imgur.com/be2PKNF.png[/url]
Those look a ton better than american bumpers, could land a plane on mine. (Anyone in europe want to send me eu-spec bumpers lol)
Also, anyone wanna buy an M50 engine lol
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47713311]THE 6 LEAKER IS A POWERJOKE, NOT A CUMMINS!!
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
And to serj: my cousin runs 235s in his dart and it rubs with too many people, I knew you couldnt run a 10" wide tire tho. Is your rear axle ofset by any chance? My cousins has more room on one side versus the other.
i think tucking a 225 in and lowering the car a bunch would have a better effect and look than jacking it up to fit a 235/245[/QUOTE]
The rear end is not offset. They have about the same clearance either side. The passenger side does sit about 1/2" lower however than the driver's side. I like the car raised in the rear, that's the look i was going for. 245 fits but just barely and I have air shocks to keep it from coming down into the wheel well. I didn't like the way the rear quarter covered half the wheel. It looks too grandma.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47713311]THE 6 LEAKER IS A POWERJOKE, NOT A CUMMINS!!
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
And to serj: my cousin runs 235s in his dart and it rubs with too many people, I knew you couldnt run a 10" wide tire tho. Is your rear axle ofset by any chance? My cousins has more room on one side versus the other.
i think tucking a 225 in and lowering the car a bunch would have a better effect and look than jacking it up to fit a 235/245[/QUOTE]
That's probably what I meant, sorry. Been up far too long and drove far too many miles and crawled in way too small of a crawlspace all day long.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47713596]The rear end is not offset. They have about the same clearance either side. The passenger side does sit about 1/2" lower however than the driver's side. I like the car raised in the rear, that's the look i was going for. 245 fits but just barely and I have air shocks to keep it from coming down into the wheel well. I didn't like the way the rear quarter covered half the wheel. It looks too grandma.[/QUOTE]
Too grandma?! Tucked wheels are the best thing about old cars! Look at all the new vehicles, NOT A SINGLE ONE has tucked wheels, makes them look like hotwheels.
[thumb]http://image.hotrod.com/f/83272226+w660+h495+cr1/1963-dodge-dart-gt-rear-driver-side.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://assets.blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2013/08/SMOY_2_Web.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/80760EE1-2453-4DE2-9B4E-2804C3CAB606_zpsvcbrw8zb.jpg[/thumb]
Theres probably a reason why
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47713831]Too grandma?! Tucked wheels are the best thing about old cars! Look at all the new vehicles, NOT A SINGLE ONE has tucked wheels, makes them look like hotwheels.[/QUOTE]
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/5KpzOZg.jpg[/img_thumb]
[thumb]http://ltastudent.lodiusd.net/Alexl/Images/hot-wheels%20racer.png[/thumb]
Big round wheel wells that you can see the entire rim and tire
[editline]12th May 2015[/editline]
Find me one modern vehicle that doesnt expose the whole wheel
[thumb]http://switzerperformanceinnovation.com/web_en/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/cars-nissan-r35_main1.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47713900][thumb]http://ltastudent.lodiusd.net/Alexl/Images/hot-wheels%20racer.png[/thumb]
Big round wheel wells that you can see the entire rim and tire
[editline]12th May 2015[/editline]
Find me one modern vehicle that doesnt expose the whole wheel
[thumb]http://switzerperformanceinnovation.com/web_en/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/cars-nissan-r35_main1.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE]
[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c9/HondaInsight.jpg[/t]
God the original Insight was a phenomenal car. A friend of mine has a manual one in that color with the hybrid battery removed or some shit and it still gets ridiculously good gas mileage.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47713831]Too grandma?! Tucked wheels are the best thing about old cars! Look at all the new vehicles, NOT A SINGLE ONE has tucked wheels, makes them look like hotwheels.
[thumb]http://image.hotrod.com/f/83272226+w660+h495+cr1/1963-dodge-dart-gt-rear-driver-side.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://assets.blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2013/08/SMOY_2_Web.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/80760EE1-2453-4DE2-9B4E-2804C3CAB606_zpsvcbrw8zb.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE]
Middle one looks fine yes... but upper and lower imagine those things with the ass up and all the tire showing. Hell yeah thatd be so much better.
[QUOTE=Serj22;47712944]You sure that didn't fall into the 5mph/$1000 damage rule? They set forth a rule where cars would have to withstand a 5mph crash while only sustaining less than $1,000 in damage. Thus bumpers started moving forward, and I believe having them unpainted made it a lot cheaper to replace to be part of the rule. I'm thinking the European spec ones are painted correct? So that would be why, not to be cheap, but to comply with the U.S. damage laws. Also I'm not sure if it was $1,000, maybe it was 500. I don't know.[/QUOTE]
No bumpers on the R107 were painted unless if you were one of the lucky folks who bought a Carlsson, Brabus, AMG, or Lorinser car. Euro bumpers were much thinner though
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Bomber9900;47712963]I just bought my first car, probably not the best as far as gearheads are concerned but its a 2012 VW Passat SE with 30k miles, how long can I make it last with proper maintenance and what not?[/QUOTE]
Depends on how long you want to deal with German engineering and quirkiness. Modern VW motors are generally good, transmissions are transmissions, but it depends.
Dependent Factors
- Whether or not you or a mechanic changes transmission fluid
- Whether you live in an area where roads are treated in the winter
- How you drive
- Average ambient temperature
- Your definition of making it last (mileage versus years)
- Tolerance for electrical gremlins
- Whether or not you know what a conductor plate is
- How well the Mexicans screwed your car together
- How closely you actually follow the service schedule and manufacturer bulletins
Basically what I'm saying is that this question is not possible to answer. But it should last 15 years if maintained according to all VW service literature, and when everything is done right when it needs to be, and things like oiling and cleaning sunroof parts are done yearly. Why 15 years? Well it's FACT that rubber generally goes bad after 15 years or 150000 miles and you will start experiencing various leaks and whatnot.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47711325]The 3 series was BMW's Civic, even more so with the 318i. Hell, many E36's came with unpainted bumpers?[/QUOTE]
I fucking hate how my bumper is unpainted, but I never have enough money or time to either swap it with an M-front or color it right.
This darn NSX was for sale for $38k a month ago.. dropped to $33k now.
[url]http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/189270-95-NSX-T-for-sale-SO-CAL-JH4NA1189ST000186[/url]
Crazy how much a salvage title destroys value on some cars. I'll be honest I'm a little bummed about it, because I'd rather have that car since I could modify the piss out of it without feeling bad about ruining something 'original'
Has anyone here owned a Mercedes w201 190E/180E with the M102 engine? What are they like to own?
[QUOTE=Saber15;47712820]A [I]lot[/I] of European cars at the time came with unpainted bumpers because they were too lazy and/or cheap to paint the US bumpers.
[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/aa/Mercedes_benz_1983_380sl_us.jpg/1920px-Mercedes_benz_1983_380sl_us.jpg[/t]
It's got the fucking USS [I]Nimitz[/I] for a bumper, and this is a top of the line car whose modern successor has a nigh 6-figure price tag.[/QUOTE]
Uhh, those are real bumpers. maybe I should have said unpainted bumper covers which look really cheap and were usually found on things like Civics, Tercels and other cheap cars. Unpainted bumper covers are basically a base model shaming tactic reserved for the cheapest of cars, BMW I guess felt the 318i was worthy of this.
[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c4/1991-1996_BMW_318i_(E36)_sedan_03.jpg[/t]
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
I started out today with an oil change on the Integra and damn did it need it, the oil felt and smelt terrible. I think it's been in there about 4k miles and 8 months. After that I finally got around to finishing up the suspension that I laid out months ago planning to do all at once. Instead my previous exhaust killed my dreams of a rear swaybar.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-02-26%2013.13.01.jpg[/t]
To drop the front swaybar you have to drop the exhaust at the cat and drop the shift linkage from the trans as it goes up and over all this. This means pounding on the bitch pin for 10-15 minutes straight before it decides to slip loose.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-05-12%2019.38.48.jpg[/t]
So after fighting all that everything dropped right out and I was able to free the old axle grease covered 19mm bar with it's totally finished, loose endlinks.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-05-12%2020.09.20.jpg[/t]
Now here's where it goes to hell, first I dealt with the bushings I bought being a "universal" size despite only specing out to a 23mm bar with a different part number. Caliper reads 22mm diameter.. But even better the bushings are significantly taller than the stock bushings. Now the EF Civics use a hook and bolt swaybar mount which has a tab that hooks under the subframe and then bolts on the otherside. With a taller bushing, this was entirely impossible to tighten down and fit. So I spent over a hour and a half taking the bushings to sand paper by hand since I don't have a belt sander. After all this I just said fuck it, took my electric impact and smashed the bolts into their holes. Hopefully they went in and didn't cross thread because I doubt the 22mm bushings will last.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-05-12%2020.37.28.jpg[/t]
The DA Integra swaybar is also about 1/2" longer so the endlink geometry is pretty laughable. So much for everyone on Honda forums insisting it's a direct bolt-in part and has the "same" geometry. Oh well, I guess I'll just tighten down the endlinks a few times as they wear in totally sideways and replace them in 20k miles since they are $5 a pop anyways.
I gave up trying to get the rear DA Integra 14.7mm swaybar in the car too, I tossed in my dinky 13mm EF Civic Si bar and it fit like perfect. However in usual tone, the bar end eye bushings which I bought for it are total and absolute plastic garbage and just by jamming the end links over them I took a huge chunk out of one, deformed and tore it.
But...
I took it out for a drive with the new bars and holy damn it's an entirely different car, I was able to hit some stuff about as hard as I do in the Integra and it happily did it. The car is much more predictable and you can actually feel and sense when it's loosing grip. Turn-in is insanely improved and the car doesn't just launch crazily into understeer. I think that if it had a 16-15mm bar from a CRX or a Integra Sedan, a really great shock that properly dampens my mild Eibachs as well as a nice set of summer tires this thing would be pretty serious. As is, if it had a B series, better tires and a steering wheel I'd really have to decide which car I'd want to drive more. I bought this $450 shitbox and it does absolutely everything I could ever want, I honestly can't think of a better cheap beater/daily.
oh god yes I love rear wheel tuck on commodores
[t]http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/vn-vp-vg-vq/128650d1320819687-1992-holden-vp-calais-international-black-vp-calias-012.jpg[/t]
[t]http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/vn-vp-vg-vq/128649d1320819617-1992-holden-vp-calais-international-black-vp-calias-010.jpg[/t]
aaand here it is in hotwheels form
[t]http://www.xhpwheels.com/gallery/614.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;47713900]
Find me one modern vehicle that doesnt expose the whole wheel
[/QUOTE]
[t]http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2013/02/21/article-2282343-182D0C29000005DC-115_634x423.jpg[/t]
Made the time to install the new speakers into the civic today. The rear ones took me just 20 minutes while the front took me an hour, the cables were super hard and shit making it hard to strip out the sheath. The speakers are bare at the moment thanks to the tweeter assembly of the 3 way design being too big for the stock covers. I can't put the guards that came with the speaker because of the car's panel form. Gonna break out the rotary tool and cut me some holes if I have the time :dance:
Also should I take cable length into consideration? The rear speakers came with 3m of cables and I just spliced them to the stock cables extending the cables by 3m. It shouldn't cause any resistance and affect anything right?
Copper does have a certain resistance to it, so you may lose some power, you can check for yourself here: [URL="http://chemandy.com/calculators/round-wire-resistance-calculator.htm"]Wire Resistance Calculator[/URL]
only use wires made out of pure silver
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=adam1172;47715945]Made the time to install the new speakers into the civic today. The rear ones took me just 20 minutes while the front took me an hour, the cables were super hard and shit making it hard to strip out the sheath. The speakers are bare at the moment thanks to the tweeter assembly of the 3 way design being too big for the stock covers. I can't put the guards that came with the speaker because of the car's panel form. Gonna break out the rotary tool and cut me some holes if I have the time :dance:
Also should I take cable length into consideration? The rear speakers came with 3m of cables and I just spliced them to the stock cables extending the cables by 3m. It shouldn't cause any resistance and affect anything right?[/QUOTE]
dont worry about wire length and dont bother with anything other than copper
does this look good?
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/possible.png[/t]
uhhh
sure
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;47714410]Has anyone here owned a Mercedes w201 190E/180E with the M102 engine? What are they like to own?[/QUOTE]
I have not owned a 201, but I own a W126 420SEL which uses most of the same components aside from engine and rear suspension. Owning an 80s Benz is pretty nice, but you need to be mindful of a few things, and stay well away from mechanics (this is how I got into some trouble with mine).
The 190E is basically my car but downscaled a fuckton. Rear seat room is tight at best, plenty of room up front though. Trunk is generous for a compact car.
I've been dealing with Mercedes and Volkswagen stuff since I was 15, and the M102 engine is a well made motor just like the rest of the motors Benz made during this time. But age takes it's toll, all of these cars have Bosch KE-3 Jetronic fuel injection unless you live in Europe, so there are things that can go wrong with it.
[B]The Elephant in the Room: Bosch CIS-E[/B]
Common Bosch CIS Problems:
- EHA Valve clogged
- Fuel distributor frozen
- Idle air mixture set incorrectly, MAF signal implausible [I](this one is a real fucker)[/I]
- Worn airflow potentiometer
- Bad fuel injectors [I](This one is a biggie, only Bosch makes these injectors and they cost $51 each)[/I]
- Bad O2 sensor [I](The light on the dash appearing and then going away does not mean it's bad, don't make my mistake)[/I]
- OVP relay failure/ poor signal
- Jetronic computer ground failure [I](Usually in poor condition cars)[/I]
- Rubber component cracks [I](Causes vacuum leaks, can create rough idle)[/I]
- Idle control valve [I](THIS IS CLOGGED IF AND ONLY IF CAR IDLES AT AN ABSURD 1800-2500 RPM)[/I]
These problems seem numerous, but it's all age related, and everything is easy to find parts for and fix. It's cheaper to work on this FI then any other period FI system, or any newer FI system [I](LH Jetronic sucks because of tree hugging dirt worshipers)[/I]. Bosch K-Jet, otherwise known as CIS-E is also a pretty bulletproof system unless if you work on it while not understanding it's methods ([I]Don't do this, if you have a question, ask, a few of us have worked on CIS cars before and know their quirks, and you don't want to mess with something like the idle mixture when you should be recalibrating the airflow pot or something[/I]).
[B]Don't ever touch the idle air mix screw, EVER, unless if your idle surges and then falls. And even then, don't reef on the screw or you will know my pain.[/B]
[B]Climate Control: Make Weekly Sacrifices to the Pushbutton Lord[/B]
Other than CIS, the cars are pretty straightforward. If you want a car with automatic climate control, look for a 1987 or later, these have digitalized pushbutton units AND better built temperature regulator relays [I](this fucker costs $410)[/I]. But I recommend manuclimate because autoclimate has a metric fuckton of vacuum lines and vent pods that all can go wrong and leave you asking WTF.
[B]Rust- In replaced rear window seals we trust[/B]
Rust on 190Es is not hilariously common unlike a ton of 80s cars. They use the same grade steel as the W126 S-Class and some aluminum was used in the construction, but watch out for holes in exhausts, inner quarter panel rust, and suspension component rot [I](the last one is important on the 190 with it's 5 link multilink rear end)[/I]. Also another common rust zone on any 80s Benz is the rear hatshelf, due to a failing rear windshield seal.
To check the hatshelf for rust, which will tell you if the window seal is bad, you will have to get into the trunk and look up with your head under the hatshelf. If there's rust, run away, as there will also be rust on the fuel tank, which hides behind a bulkhead at the end of the trunk.
[B]Sunroof: are my felt strips ruined edition[/B]
When you look at any 80s Benz, make sure the sunroof moves smoothly and listen for any obvious motor strain. Sunroof problems can be very frustrating, and finding good replacement parts is very hard. These sunroofs should uninstalled from the car yearly, cleaned, and regreased with MB White Synthetic Lubicant ONLY. If you see lithium grease or dirt, expect to uninstall the roof and spend the day cleaning and replacing felt strips that the roof uses to glide along various rails to ensure that your roof does not jam. This job is simple, you can do it half drunk even.
[B]4G-Tronic: The only slushbox that can't slushbox[/B]
The most common 190E transmission is the basic strength 4G-Tronic (722.3xx) transmission. When you drive a 4G-Tronic car, you should be able to feel every gear change. A good test is to take the car to an 8% grade and floor it up the hill after cruising to it in 4th. When the transmission kicks down, it should kick down almost immediately with liberal throttle and with extreme violence(should scare an unsuspecting passenger). If it's silky smooth or unresponsive, then there is an issue.
A well kept 4G-Tronic should respond something like this (they really are very fast shifting transmissions). [I]The tach will also bounce a bit after the shift in a 190E[/I]
[video=youtube;LyeUYsNAsyU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyeUYsNAsyU[/video]
[B]Differential- One wheel burnout queen![/B]
The differential in a 190E is a basic open diff unless if you are lucky enough to find a 16V. But a fluid change will be required on purchase as most people forget about the differential. Good fluid is a must, as well as enough fluid, or the 4G-Tronic will end your diff.
[B]Ancillaries[/B]
- Make sure everything works, because if it doesn't, you're going to have lots of fun!
- Make sure the owner uses premium fuel
- Bosch spark plugs are bad juju
- The aircon systems are easy to tool around with
- 80s Benzes are awesome
Need I say more. These cars are great bulletproof tanks that get you from point A to point B in style and absolute comfort. You can drive them for 400 miles and feel less tired at the destination then when you left to go on the voyage.
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;47714410]Has anyone here owned a Mercedes w201 190E/180E with the M102 engine? What are they like to own?[/QUOTE]
Oh, I own an M102 but in the W123 chassis. It's the 2 liter variant with a single Pierburg carburetor. It's probably the slowest car I've ever driven when you get above 35 mph, so if you like to pull away quickly, then this is not the car for you.
I think there's a horsepower difference though, mine develops a massive 109 horsepower when it was new. It has now done 163k miles and I'd say someone left a gate open, because it feels like it has around ~80 left. Reliable engines though, mine starts first time every time and it's not that noisy. Honestly has an alright engine note too, a 190E is probably a bit peppier as well.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyOJbaLCJac[/media]
Engine note at around 2:40 in. Gotta love how much it smokes even though it's perfectly up to operating temperature. :v:
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