Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
I have seen Mercedes engines in good working order past 500,000 miles, so I wouldn't be quick to say you've only got 80 left.
Mneeh, those are probably the diesels. They could survive the apocalypse, or even being owned by an elderly lady with five thumbs and no feet. The petrols are very, very reliable as well, but they do lose some power with the years, just like any engine really. Mine burns oil (1l a month) and it smokes a bit, but it's very reliable and I've not had any issues with the engine at all. It cannot do the 0-100 km/h sprint in 16,5 seconds as advertised anymore, I'd estimate it'd take something like 23 seconds these days. I don't push it hard so it's not an issue for me.
[QUOTE=adam1172;47715945]Made the time to install the new speakers into the civic today. The rear ones took me just 20 minutes while the front took me an hour, the cables were super hard and shit making it hard to strip out the sheath. The speakers are bare at the moment thanks to the tweeter assembly of the 3 way design being too big for the stock covers. I can't put the guards that came with the speaker because of the car's panel form. Gonna break out the rotary tool and cut me some holes if I have the time :dance:
Also should I take cable length into consideration? The rear speakers came with 3m of cables and I just spliced them to the stock cables extending the cables by 3m. It shouldn't cause any resistance and affect anything right?[/QUOTE]
I guess you already go this answered, but at this length and low current you shouldn't worry too much about it. Just don't undersize cabling if you mount an amplifier.
Also amp wiring porn because I'm redoing my cabling and mounting and found this while looking for examples.
[t]https://hostr.co/file/Q1VvhTxArKgj/post-38230-0-59895900-1424676194.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;47718054]does this look good?
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/possible.png[/t][/QUOTE]
Um, what the fuck are we looking at?
[QUOTE=Gulen;47719498]Um, what the fuck are we looking at?[/QUOTE]
possible.png
[QUOTE=Gulen;47719498]Um, what the fuck are we looking at?[/QUOTE]
Ehh it's a 4 pole double throw switch, I don't know why he's doing it like this tho. Both the amp and the moneo (I really don't know if this is a mono amp or what) should have a remote input that could be connected directly to the radio, or if the radio doesn't work like that/doesn't exist it could go to a simple switch.
And it looks like you're switching between a Mono amp and 2channel amp controlling the same speakers. Why are you doing this?
Yeah, I just couldn't figure out what he was trying to do there, or what "moneo" meant (at first I thought it said mondeo)
[QUOTE=Gulen;47719578]Yeah, I just couldn't figure out what he was trying to do there, or what "moneo" meant (at first I thought it said mondeo)[/QUOTE]
You guys are all wrong. Clearly he has drawn the upper half of a robot and he needs help drawing the lower part.
At first.... Their was only one.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG0577.jpg[/t]
Then all of a sudden magic happened.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG0583.jpg[/t]
Im done for today. I got tired of working in water getting electrocuted.
[QUOTE=Slithers;47718168] [I]The tach will also bounce a bit after the shift in a 190E[/I]
[video=youtube;LyeUYsNAsyU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyeUYsNAsyU[/video]
[/QUOTE]
jesus thats a fast auto
also did that second gear run until 70+ mph?
[QUOTE=dwt110;47720181]jesus thats a fast auto
also did that second gear run until 70+ mph?[/QUOTE]
Depending on the ratio, it's not that impossible. My car can do it at about 6k with only a lot of gas being burned.
[QUOTE=Gulen;47719498]Um, what the fuck are we looking at?[/QUOTE]
Monoeo is the 240z "stereo" that is really only 1 channel. 2channel amp is for an aux input with a switch to decide what will drive the two 6x9s I have in the back
I want to get a toyota pickup
[QUOTE=notlabbet;47720521]I want to get a toyota pickup[/QUOTE]
You and me both.
trade my miata for this?
[url]http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5015001847.html[/url]
Obviously the best choice is to swap the toyota body onto the miata. :v:
[QUOTE=notlabbet;47720582]trade my miata for this?
[url]http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5015001847.html[/url][/QUOTE]
If you want a truck and don't want a Miata, I say go for it!
I would love to see cool truck stuffs on AA.
the thing is, I really like my miata, but I've never been one to be super attached to any vehicle. I was thinking, since I basically just commute, and I always wanted to go truck camping, why not get a more practical car? MPG is basically the same between the two.
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47720611]Obviously the best choice is to swap the toyota body onto the miata. :v:[/QUOTE]
wouldn't that be the shit, a sports car chassis with a bed.
[QUOTE=dwt110;47720181]jesus thats a fast auto
also did that second gear run until 70+ mph?[/QUOTE]
Yes, 2nd runs to about 75-80 in these cars. These 4G-Tronics are no joke as far as transmissions go, even the first Benz autos in the 70s are like this. It's really an experience, and it's always fun to catch people off guard with it. What the video doesn't really show well is the violence of the shift. These transmissions shift with such force that the whole chassis shudders, and if the car has a bad diff mount like mine, you get a very loud clunking noise and both wheels chirp on the upshift.
You don't want to floor a 4G-Tronic Benz in the rain though as you will loose your ass (been there done that with a close call that freaked out a ton of people as they saw my black barge slide sideways through a major intersection)
The transmissions also can go very far before rebuilds and will last the life of a gasoline motor (250k-500k miles) since the clutch packs don't really get used.
the dude wants to trade, meeting him friday. 3 hour drive away though.
Hey, I need your guys help on locating a 2003 Honda civic si 3-door hatchback Core support/Radiator support that can ship to me, (Live in the states, MO) I've looked over Ebay and amazon, some other websites and can't find them, or if I did, they want like 400+ for it
I'm hoping to find one less then 200, if you find one anywhere from 40-90 or so, it's probably for a 4 door/2 door coupe. So if you guys could help me out, it be much love. I've been searching junk yards for my style civic for months and not even 1 has shown up anywhere. Are ep3's that rare?
The whole support is $350 from Honda, definitely don't buy it from any of those shitty places.
[url]http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/honda/civic-hatchback/60400s5tg01zz/2003-year/si-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/front-bulkhead-scat/?part_name=bulkhead-fr[/url]
This place has one for $160, try some JDM Depots. They've probably parted out some EP3 CTR fronts and are stuck with scrap.
[url]http://jdmohiodirect.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58[/url]
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
Rockauto has [u]one[/u] for $230
[url]http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1415708&parttype=812[/url]
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
My next idea would be to try to locate some UK part numbers and attempt to order them or get them shipped over here. They were pretty common in the UK no EP3's really aren't that common here being that it was a really shitty RSX base drivetrain that was the most mediocre K series ever made. No one bought them.
Is this a "high flow" catalytic converter?
[url]http://www.autozone.com/exhaust/catalytic-converter/magnaflow-universal-catalytic-converter/979882_0_0/[/url]
What determines if its high flow or not? The inlet size?
[QUOTE=dwt110;47720181]jesus thats a fast auto
also did that second gear run until 70+ mph?[/QUOTE]
My second gear goes to 82 B)
[editline]13th May 2015[/editline]
IIRC my gears go 51, 82, 101, ∞. It bounces off the limiter at 117 at 2800 RPM.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47721351]
This place has one for $160, try some JDM Depots. They've probably parted out some EP3 CTR fronts and are stuck with scrap.
[url]http://jdmohiodirect.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58[/url]
[/QUOTE]
Probably going with that one as it does also come with the hood latch and release. I'll see how much they want for shipping first though.
[QUOTE=crazycory65;47721496]Probably going with that one as it does also come with the hood latch and release. I'll see how much they want for shipping first though.[/QUOTE]
That will be a RHD release, you should be able to use any similar hood latch as long as you make a little bracket at most. I remember that when you do a JDM front you use a DA Integra hood latch because the RHD JDM one won't work or something like that.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47721425]Is this a "high flow" catalytic converter?
[url]http://www.autozone.com/exhaust/catalytic-converter/magnaflow-universal-catalytic-converter/979882_0_0/[/url]
What determines if its high flow or not? The inlet size?[/QUOTE]
Usually hi-flow means it's more of a "precat" or it's of a design that flows better than stock restrictive cats, this means short and often of a spun style.
[url]http://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-126/getting-stright-story-aftermarket-cats-random-fastline-etc-700853/[/url]
[url]http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/michaeldelaney/5-cats-catalytic-converters-higher-flow.html[/url]
In my opinion unless you have a turbo car that has a bunch of cats(WRX/Audis) where gutting them and or high flow cats are useful, just keep your OEM cat or test pipe it. On a sub 350hp car you're not going to see worthwhile gains from a high flow cat, the only real reason you may want to do anything with your cat is change the sound your exhaust makes.
If you have to meet emissions, anything less than an OEM cat is garbage. Aftermarket ones are insanely bad already and a high flow cat is just asking to pay money to fail emissions.
[QUOTE=Slithers;47718168]I have not owned a 201, but I own a W126 420SEL which uses most of the same components aside from engine and rear suspension. Owning an 80s Benz is pretty nice, but you need to be mindful of a few things, and stay well away from mechanics (this is how I got into some trouble with mine).
The 190E is basically my car but downscaled a fuckton. Rear seat room is tight at best, plenty of room up front though. Trunk is generous for a compact car.
I've been dealing with Mercedes and Volkswagen stuff since I was 15, and the M102 engine is a well made motor just like the rest of the motors Benz made during this time. But age takes it's toll, all of these cars have Bosch KE-3 Jetronic fuel injection unless you live in Europe, so there are things that can go wrong with it.
[B]The Elephant in the Room: Bosch CIS-E[/B]
Common Bosch CIS Problems:
- EHA Valve clogged
- Fuel distributor frozen
- Idle air mixture set incorrectly, MAF signal implausible [I](this one is a real fucker)[/I]
- Worn airflow potentiometer
- Bad fuel injectors [I](This one is a biggie, only Bosch makes these injectors and they cost $51 each)[/I]
- Bad O2 sensor [I](The light on the dash appearing and then going away does not mean it's bad, don't make my mistake)[/I]
- OVP relay failure/ poor signal
- Jetronic computer ground failure [I](Usually in poor condition cars)[/I]
- Rubber component cracks [I](Causes vacuum leaks, can create rough idle)[/I]
- Idle control valve [I](THIS IS CLOGGED IF AND ONLY IF CAR IDLES AT AN ABSURD 1800-2500 RPM)[/I]
These problems seem numerous, but it's all age related, and everything is easy to find parts for and fix. It's cheaper to work on this FI then any other period FI system, or any newer FI system [I](LH Jetronic sucks because of tree hugging dirt worshipers)[/I]. Bosch K-Jet, otherwise known as CIS-E is also a pretty bulletproof system unless if you work on it while not understanding it's methods ([I]Don't do this, if you have a question, ask, a few of us have worked on CIS cars before and know their quirks, and you don't want to mess with something like the idle mixture when you should be recalibrating the airflow pot or something[/I]).
[B]Don't ever touch the idle air mix screw, EVER, unless if your idle surges and then falls. And even then, don't reef on the screw or you will know my pain.[/B]
[B]Climate Control: Make Weekly Sacrifices to the Pushbutton Lord[/B]
Other than CIS, the cars are pretty straightforward. If you want a car with automatic climate control, look for a 1987 or later, these have digitalized pushbutton units AND better built temperature regulator relays [I](this fucker costs $410)[/I]. But I recommend manuclimate because autoclimate has a metric fuckton of vacuum lines and vent pods that all can go wrong and leave you asking WTF.
[B]Rust- In replaced rear window seals we trust[/B]
Rust on 190Es is not hilariously common unlike a ton of 80s cars. They use the same grade steel as the W126 S-Class and some aluminum was used in the construction, but watch out for holes in exhausts, inner quarter panel rust, and suspension component rot [I](the last one is important on the 190 with it's 5 link multilink rear end)[/I]. Also another common rust zone on any 80s Benz is the rear hatshelf, due to a failing rear windshield seal.
To check the hatshelf for rust, which will tell you if the window seal is bad, you will have to get into the trunk and look up with your head under the hatshelf. If there's rust, run away, as there will also be rust on the fuel tank, which hides behind a bulkhead at the end of the trunk.
[B]Sunroof: are my felt strips ruined edition[/B]
When you look at any 80s Benz, make sure the sunroof moves smoothly and listen for any obvious motor strain. Sunroof problems can be very frustrating, and finding good replacement parts is very hard. These sunroofs should uninstalled from the car yearly, cleaned, and regreased with MB White Synthetic Lubicant ONLY. If you see lithium grease or dirt, expect to uninstall the roof and spend the day cleaning and replacing felt strips that the roof uses to glide along various rails to ensure that your roof does not jam. This job is simple, you can do it half drunk even.
[B]4G-Tronic: The only slushbox that can't slushbox[/B]
The most common 190E transmission is the basic strength 4G-Tronic (722.3xx) transmission. When you drive a 4G-Tronic car, you should be able to feel every gear change. A good test is to take the car to an 8% grade and floor it up the hill after cruising to it in 4th. When the transmission kicks down, it should kick down almost immediately with liberal throttle and with extreme violence(should scare an unsuspecting passenger). If it's silky smooth or unresponsive, then there is an issue.
A well kept 4G-Tronic should respond something like this (they really are very fast shifting transmissions). [I]The tach will also bounce a bit after the shift in a 190E[/I]
[video=youtube;LyeUYsNAsyU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyeUYsNAsyU[/video]
[B]Differential- One wheel burnout queen![/B]
The differential in a 190E is a basic open diff unless if you are lucky enough to find a 16V. But a fluid change will be required on purchase as most people forget about the differential. Good fluid is a must, as well as enough fluid, or the 4G-Tronic will end your diff.
[B]Ancillaries[/B]
- Make sure everything works, because if it doesn't, you're going to have lots of fun!
- Make sure the owner uses premium fuel
- Bosch spark plugs are bad juju
- The aircon systems are easy to tool around with
- 80s Benzes are awesome
Need I say more. These cars are great bulletproof tanks that get you from point A to point B in style and absolute comfort. You can drive them for 400 miles and feel less tired at the destination then when you left to go on the voyage.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for that info, the one I'm looking at has a stuck sunroof and bouncey speedo cable until 50 Km/H (so fix replace those suckas). The dash light also need replacing and some other electrical issues I'd need to discuss with the owner. Its a 1987 model in a light blue colour and equipped with a 717.411. The power might a be a step up from the Skyline, if only slightly and I did swap that from a slushbox to a 5 speed manual. According to forums the Australian M102's lack a cold start valve.
Guys can anyone ID the seats in [URL="http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5015001847.html"]labbet's truck link[/URL]? Because of the little 'thigh bench' at the edge, they remind me of older BMW seats, but they're cloth so idk (does BMW do cloth?)
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47721425]Is this a "high flow" catalytic converter?
[url]http://www.autozone.com/exhaust/catalytic-converter/magnaflow-universal-catalytic-converter/979882_0_0/[/url]
What determines if its high flow or not? The inlet size?[/QUOTE]
If y'all don't tell me if this is high-flow or not I'm gonna rip my cat out and replace it with a hollowed out piece of cedar 6x6. :v:
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47721517]That will be a RHD release, you should be able to use any similar hood latch as long as you make a little bracket at most. I remember that when you do a JDM front you use a DA Integra hood latch because the RHD JDM one won't work or something like that.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Usually hi-flow means it's more of a "precat" or it's of a design that flows better than stock restrictive cats, this means short and often of a spun style.
[url]http://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-126/getting-stright-story-aftermarket-cats-random-fastline-etc-700853/[/url]
[url]http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/michaeldelaney/5-cats-catalytic-converters-higher-flow.html[/url]
In my opinion unless you have a turbo car that has a bunch of cats(WRX/Audis) where gutting them and or high flow cats are useful, just keep your OEM cat or test pipe it. On a sub 350hp car you're not going to see worthwhile gains from a high flow cat, the only real reason you may want to do anything with your cat is change the sound your exhaust makes.
If you have to meet emissions, anything less than an OEM cat is garbage. Aftermarket ones are insanely bad already and a high flow cat is just asking to pay money to fail emissions.[/QUOTE]
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47721949]If y'all don't tell me if this is high-flow or not I'm gonna rip my cat out and replace it with a hollowed out piece of cedar 6x6. :v:[/QUOTE]
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47721949]If y'all don't tell me if this is high-flow or not I'm gonna rip my cat out and replace it with a hollowed out piece of cedar 6x6. :v:[/QUOTE]
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Fuck
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Also eww don't buy exhaust/cats from autozone.
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