Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Serj22;47725013]You used that phrase. What improvement happens in the throttle response? The throttle always responds.[/QUOTE]
It's hard to explain, but it's like replacing a steel flywheel with a billet alluminum one. It isn't an increase in power, but you get quicker engine response when it comes to increasing rpms. The engine feels less sluggish to respond to throttle position changes.
My throttle response is terrible. I blame fly by wire throttle.
What car?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47724696]Yeah, I hear you there, on the lack of midspeed power part.
The 4-2 shift can be really hard on Vic tranny's, and most people who have more than stock power will either use the o/d button to shift to 3rd before flooring it, or use that modification I forgot the name of that speeds up shifts and also makes it hit 3rd for about a second before hitting 2nd if it still needs it.[/QUOTE]
It's a JMod and I don't wanna because I've got a 4R75E, which is way more reliable and snappier than your 4R70W, the jmod makes very little difference. Most of the people who complain about damage to their Crown Vic transmissions are talking about the 4R70W or E, which aren't as sturdy as the 75.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Also my throttle response is great, despite being DBW.
[QUOTE=Gulen;47725350]What car?[/QUOTE]
2010 crown Vic police interceptor. 4.6l modular v8
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Probably .3 second after I hit the throttle it goes. It makes very gradual movements tricky, especially on ice.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;47725368]It's a JMod and I don't wanna because I've got a 4R75E, which is way more reliable and snappier than your 4R70W, the jmod makes very little difference. Most of the people who complain about damage to their Crown Vic transmissions are talking about the 4R70W or E, which aren't as sturdy as the 75.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Also my throttle response is great, despite being DBW.[/QUOTE]
Damn, you out-researched me on transmission stuff.
Right so after changing the spark plugs, it drove fine for another day but then when driving it today, it sputtered the moment I drove away. Like we're talking tiny sputters that jutter the car a bit and it's slightly noticeable at idle (engine vibrates a bit more than the usual but it sounds like it's firing on all cylinders). It's like a mild cough, really. Sounds like a spark plug is randomly getting half the current it should, it just does not sound like it's firing the fuel properly in one or more of the cylinders. It's not a constant issue and it seems to happen mostly at higher revs and when the engine is under a bit of load. It can hold a steady speed alright but still with tiny sputters.
Here's my question, should I try some contact grease or something like that on the end of the HT leads connecting to the spark plugs? I'm going to order a fresh rotor and cap assembly + HT leads anyway and I'd like to isolate the issue first. I have no clue when they were last replaced, so it's probably good to replace them anyway. Any downsides to adding some conductive grease?
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;47724947]Listen to someone who has a 2002 F-150 with the 5.4:
1) Get a cheap CAI with a re-useable filter. You won't see much of a performance gain without a tune, but there is a slight improvement in throttle response.
2) If your state doesn't do emissions test, yank out the cats and put blank pipe. The coils in those trucks tend to go out, clogging the cats.
I wouldn't mess with a muffler unless you want a different sound. A more free flowing exhaust system will hurt exhaust velocity, messing with exhaust scavenging, therefore causing you to lose low end torque.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47724976]I tried finding a cheap SRI/CAI on ebay, but they're all $170+.
The one I found for my car was $35, for the intake pipe, PCV hose, and cone filter. It even came with a free bracket that was completely useless.
Anything close to that for the 4.2L V6 was $200+ "name brand" shit.[/QUOTE]
So instead of buying a $150 tube with a single bend in it, why don't we use PVC/plastic tubing from Home Depot to adapt a pod filter to the stock intake tube which is just a tube with with some bendable rubber in it. I suppose it wouldn't give the gain that a larger intake tube would but it would delete the big box which isn't really hurting the truck that much other than the fresh air side of it which s not a very good shape at all. I'd just do the Gotts mod or adapt a pod filter to the stock tube and call it good.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47725373]2010 crown Vic police interceptor. 4.6l modular v8
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Probably .3 second after I hit the throttle it goes. It makes very gradual movements tricky, especially on ice.[/QUOTE]
Turn off O/D
[QUOTE=Jackpody;47725547]Right so after changing the spark plugs, it drove fine for another day but then when driving it today, it sputtered the moment I drove away. Like we're talking tiny sputters that jutter the car a bit and it's slightly noticeable at idle (engine vibrates a bit more than the usual but it sounds like it's firing on all cylinders). It's like a mild cough, really. Sounds like a spark plug is randomly getting half the current it should, it just does not sound like it's firing the fuel properly in one or more of the cylinders. It's not a constant issue and it seems to happen mostly at higher revs and when the engine is under a bit of load. It can hold a steady speed alright but still with tiny sputters.
Here's my question, should I try some contact grease or something like that on the end of the HT leads connecting to the spark plugs? I'm going to order a fresh rotor and cap assembly + HT leads anyway and I'd like to isolate the issue first. I have no clue when they were last replaced, so it's probably good to replace them anyway. Any downsides to adding some conductive grease?[/QUOTE]
The grease usually prevents the metal clip contact from seizing to the plug and tearing off of the wire, I had this problem with some Bosch wires after 20k miles. Had to use a spare wire I had sitting around for a week while a fresh set of Denso wires was shipped. Wasn't really impressed with the quality of the $40(autozone) Bosch wires while the $17 Denso(rockauto) wires felt better in design. I'd probably bet on a bad wire/cap/rotor, you should visually inspect your cap/rotor. You can also clean up the old contacts in them a little if they are really corroded to troubleshoot a little but if you take too much off it'll get even worse.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47725651]So instead of buying a $150 tube with a single bend in it, why don't we use PVC/plastic tubing from Home Depot to adapt a pod filter to the stock intake tube which is just a tube with with some bendable rubber in it. I suppose it wouldn't give the gain that a larger intake tube would but it would delete the big box which isn't really hurting the truck that much other than the fresh air side of it which s not a very good shape at all. I'd just do the Gotts mod or adapt a pod filter to the stock tube and call it good.[/QUOTE]
A lot of people just do the gotts mod. The tube running from the airbox to the intake is large, it's just where the airbox GETS the air from that's restrictive. I ran a "CAI" because it's a single smooth pipe with no ribs, therefore no turbulence. I also like having a washable air filter.
Could you do it with PVC from home depot? Sure! But it looks real redneck.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;47725774]A lot of people just do the gotts mod. The tube running from the airbox to the intake is large, it's just where the airbox GETS the air from that's restrictive. I ran a "CAI" because it's a single smooth pipe with no ribs, therefore no turbulence. I also like having a washable air filter.
Could you do it with PVC from home depot? Sure! But it looks real redneck.[/QUOTE]
Paint it black and you'll never know from 5ft, I was gonna do this for my integra but the stock airbox was slowly trying to eat my lower radiator hose and A/C lines anyways. I like my washable K&N, but I only like it because my intake is loud as hell through it. I have an ITR intake arm and CT Eng/Comptech filter or modified K&N filter and SRI for the stock airbox as well as the speaker port to do that. It seemed like too much hassle for no actual gain so I've just left the short ram with the K&N because it makes loud noises.
[url]http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/125609-improved-diy-icebox-style-cai.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Slithers;47720946]Yes, 2nd runs to about 75-80 in these cars. These 4G-Tronics are no joke as far as transmissions go, even the first Benz autos in the 70s are like this. It's really an experience, and it's always fun to catch people off guard with it. What the video doesn't really show well is the violence of the shift. These transmissions shift with such force that the whole chassis shudders, and if the car has a bad diff mount like mine, you get a very loud clunking noise and both wheels chirp on the upshift.
You don't want to floor a 4G-Tronic Benz in the rain though as you will loose your ass (been there done that with a close call that freaked out a ton of people as they saw my black barge slide sideways through a major intersection)
The transmissions also can go very far before rebuilds and will last the life of a gasoline motor (250k-500k miles) since the clutch packs don't really get used.[/QUOTE]
The Early-mid 2000s Chrysler NAG-1s are based of the 4G while a 'Chrysler' equivalent is present in most base-model cars for the Chrysler lineups. The NAG-1s are about as reliable and a lot more smooth being they use the clutch packs for the sifts a little more to ease the transitions and use a very slightly smaller ratio in the gears before adding a fifth one on top of it. It took me by surprise the first few times I put it in 1st just to see how far it redlined and then realized I was doing 55 already with a little climb left.
For us, though, 2nd has a sharp drop off in power before going up to about 75. Third is impressive that it keeps decent power throughout its range and using just 3rd you can go as low as 30 and I guess in the 90s on the high range.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47725883]Paint it black and you'll never know from 5ft, I was gonna do this for my integra but the stock airbox was slowly trying to eat my lower radiator hose and A/C lines anyways. I like my washable K&N, but I only like it because my intake is loud as hell through it. I have an ITR intake arm and CT Eng/Comptech filter or modified K&N filter and SRI for the stock airbox as well as the speaker port to do that. It seemed like too much hassle for no actual gain so I've just left the short ram with the K&N because it makes loud noises.
[url]http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/125609-improved-diy-icebox-style-cai.html[/url][/QUOTE]
My SRI makes throttle-blipping sound like a giant bubble ascending and popping out of primordial ooze.
BWOP
BWOP
I love the intensity of the intake note. Even if I'm losing power from the stock airbox, I could care less, I keep it on just for the sound.
Some kind of new show called "House of Grudge" is going to be at the track that's 10 minutes from my house (No Problem Raceway) in two weeks. Mike Murillo gonna be there. I just might go check it out and watch some drag racing.....
I would. Can't go wrong with some cars going fast and possibly some laughs from a show?
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47725652]Turn off O/D[/QUOTE]
Its not that, its only going from no throttle to any amount of throttle. It almost feels like theres a dead spot at the "barely any gas" side of the throttle.
I'd say check your throttle cable for slack, but it's electronic right?
check your potentiometer for slack duh
Did a little test today on the '74 Dart. The fiancee wants to go a different route now, and I kind of like her idea - no paint on the lower part of the car, let it rust. Polish the chrome up all nice, paint the roof gloss aquatic blue, and have a sign on the side for her graphic printing home business, or a painted on tail stripe like the '68 has. Then baby moons on the stock wheels painted the same color as the roof with chrome trim rings.
So I took the paint off the trunk fins a little, and see how the surface rust will look, and where to "stop" it and clear it.
[IMG][URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/1974%20Dart/20150514_135419_zpsiofj6mrh.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/1974%20Dart/20150514_135419_zpsiofj6mrh.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/IMG]
I'll fix all the dents I can by welding nails to the body and pulling them, then weld any holes when done and grind smooth so it's all straight because bondo is not an option for the look.
Can anyone here look up license plates for free? I wanna find out if my dad's fiero is still on the road.
[QUOTE=Del91;47726462]I'd say check your throttle cable for slack, but it's electronic right?[/QUOTE]
It's not that. His problem is just with how it's programmed.
I have the same engine (but modified) and systems. His problem is that there is a programmed "delay" in the throttle. This is especially true of vehicles with automatic transmissions.
There is pedal position and throttle percentage. I can set 0-80% throttle in the first 25% of the pedal travel, or 0-80% of the throttle in the first 80% of pedal travel, and all other combinations you can think of.
The reason is that you're going to only be using so much pedal travel for the majority of your driving. This range is de-sensitized to allow for more accurate speed control and to make it easier for people to hold a particular speed.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47726573]Can anyone here look up license plates for free? I wanna find out if my dad's fiero is still on the road.[/QUOTE]
Depends on the state. Most do not allow public access to plate information.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
and I'm not going to do it
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;47726592]It's not that. His problem is just with how it's programmed.
I have the same engine (but modified) and systems. His problem is that there is a programmed "delay" in the throttle. This is especially true of vehicles with automatic transmissions.
There is pedal position and throttle percentage. I can set 0-80% throttle in the first 25% of the pedal travel, or 0-80% of the throttle in the first 80% of pedal travel, and all other combinations you can think of.
The reason is that you're going to only be using so much pedal travel for the majority of your driving. This range is de-sensitized to allow for more accurate speed control and to make it easier for people to hold a particular speed.[/QUOTE]
Not the same engine at all. The 2-valve and 3-valve share very little between them. 3-valve has a 16-bit ECU, 2-valve has 8-bit. The intake systems between them share very little, as well. The block is quite similar, but almost everything on top is different.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;47726845]Not the same engine at all. The 2-valve and 3-valve share very little between them. 3-valve has a 16-bit ECU, 2-valve has 8-bit. The intake systems between them share very little, as well. The block is quite similar, but almost everything on top is different.[/QUOTE]
I thought the 4.6 in 2010 was 3 valve.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47726597]Depends on the state. Most do not allow public access to plate information.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
and I'm not going to do it[/QUOTE]
:c I figured as much.
Got my MR2 registered today and took it out on public streets for the first time.
Holy shit, we had so much fun. Somehow we even got three of us to fit in there :v:
It's definitely not going to pass inspection though, the passenger front tie rod is shot to hell and it's terrifying to turn left in any capacity.
Good thing I have ten days to fix it!
[img]https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11148713_909020949140107_4645170780498738344_n.jpg?oh=ea4c22798caf20d27018b486c18292cd&oe=56086B27[/img]
[img]https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11202951_909020989140103_4192803412843155874_n.jpg?oh=6758025d5e423fc5e07c85b43db072c6&oe=5607945C[/img]
It certainly needs an alignment too.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47725651]So instead of buying a $150 tube with a single bend in it, why don't we use PVC/plastic tubing from Home Depot to adapt a pod filter to the stock intake tube which is just a tube with with some bendable rubber in it. I suppose it wouldn't give the gain that a larger intake tube would but it would delete the big box which isn't really hurting the truck that much other than the fresh air side of it which s not a very good shape at all. I'd just do the Gotts mod or adapt a pod filter to the stock tube and call it good.[/QUOTE]
Would changing WHERE the intake is have any effect?
Right now the air intake is on the side of the truck. If I moved it so that it was facing the front and air was forced into it while driving would that be beneficial, harmful, or no change?
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Also why are people with IDS Scan Tools such fucking greedy jews?
I got my cruise control kit for my truck. It's an OEM part so it's pretty much plug and play. BUT I need to go into my truck's computer and change literally one setting in the computer from "no" to "yes".
Everywhere I've called either
A) Won't do it because "muh liability"
B) Will do it, but wants $50+ for what is literally 10 seconds of work
And no one will just fucking let me use it for the 10 seconds I need it.
[video=youtube;iMRLM_gtQQ4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMRLM_gtQQ4[/video]
I'm gonna need a new exhaust system too
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;47726885]I thought the 4.6 in 2010 was 3 valve.[/QUOTE]
Depends on the vehicle. IIRC, the cruisers and sedans with the 4.6 were 3 but trucks and economy vehicles still had 2.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;47727381]Depends on the vehicle. IIRC, the cruisers and sedans with the 4.6 were 3 but trucks and economy vehicles still had 2.[/QUOTE]
Trucks switched over to 3 valve in 2003. It was marked by the famous loud cam phaser problems in the F-150s.
Never mind, you're right. They only switched to the 3 valve in the 4.6 Mustang engines and in the 5.4 Tritons.
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