Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
Some were, not all:
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine[/url]
You could get the F and E series from 97 to 2010 with the 2-valve, and all the way up to 2014 when they ceased production of the E series in the 2-valve.
You may be thinking of the F-150s with the 5.4 Triton in 3-valve, it was introduced to the lineup for the F-series in 2004.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;47727424]Some were, not all:
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine[/url]
You could get the F and E series from 97 to 2010 with the 2-valve, and all the way up to 2014 when they ceased production of the E series in the 2-valve.
You may be thinking of the F-150s with the 5.4 Triton in 3-valve, it was introduced to the lineup for the F-series in 2004.[/QUOTE]
I was. My F-150 has the 2 valve 5.4, but my Mustang has the 3 valve 4.6.
Ah. Yeah, I didn't see which vehicle it was we were discussing, sorry. The GT has the 2 valve up to '04 and then 3 valve to 2014 with overlap for several years where both were available.
ALL Crown Victorias had 2-valve engines. The only panther platform car with a non 2-valve engine was the Marauder, which had a 4-valve.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Never mind that a 3-valve Crown Vic would have been kickass. The 3V is a far better motor than the 2V in almost every respect.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47727270]Would changing WHERE the intake is have any effect?
Right now the air intake is on the side of the truck. If I moved it so that it was facing the front and air was forced into it while driving would that be beneficial, harmful, or no change?
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
Also why are people with IDS Scan Tools such fucking greedy jews?
I got my cruise control kit for my truck. It's an OEM part so it's pretty much plug and play. BUT I need to go into my truck's computer and change literally one setting in the computer from "no" to "yes".
Everywhere I've called either
A) Won't do it because "muh liability"
B) Will do it, but wants $50+ for what is literally 10 seconds of work
And no one will just fucking let me use it for the 10 seconds I need it.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like you're the jew who can't fork over a $50. They paid the big bucks for those tools so gooddman there going to earn that money back.
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;47727613]Sounds like you're the jew who can't fork over a $50. They paid the big bucks for those tools so gooddman there going to earn that money back.[/QUOTE]
Those scan tools that enable you to change values in the computers are worth more than my car.
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;47727613]Sounds like you're the jew who can't fork over a $50. They paid the big bucks for those tools so gooddman there going to earn that money back.[/QUOTE]
It only costs like $200 for one. And yeah I'm totally a jew for not wanting to give someone $50 for something that I can do myself, and something that would only take them literally 5-10 seconds.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47727675]It only costs like $200 for one. And yeah I'm totally a jew for not wanting to give someone $50 for something that I can do myself, and something that would only take them literally 5-10 seconds.[/QUOTE]
Then do it yourself.
They have the equipment and you don't. Unless you pay up, they have no interest in letting you borrow their tool.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47727675]It only costs like $200 for one. And yeah I'm totally a jew for not wanting to give someone $50 for something that I can do myself, and something that would only take them literally 5-10 seconds.[/QUOTE]
Befriend a technician, pay up, or buy the scan tool.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47727682]Then do it yourself.[/QUOTE]
I said can, not "currently have the ability to".
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47727690]I said can, not "currently have the ability to".[/QUOTE]
Looks like you're paying then.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47727686]Befriend a technician, pay up, or buy the scan tool.[/QUOTE]
Trying option #1. I'm sure as fuck not spending $50 for someone to do 5-10 seconds of work, nor am I gonna pay $200 for the tool just to program my $110 cruise control module
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47727694]Looks like you're paying then.[/QUOTE]
Fuck that. I'm not gonna get ripped off by someone that's already made 100x their investment back on the scan tool.
Then you can forget having cruise control, bud.
ford'd
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47727701]Then you can forget having cruise control, bud.
ford'd[/QUOTE]
I have some bricks in my back yard. I'll just use those until I find someone with an IDS tool that isn't so greedy.
Id rather have a 5.4 2v (or 3v) in the vic
Actually fuck that gimme a V10 triton like that one guy. While youre at it Ill take a nice big supercharger and a cowl hood to hide it all under.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47727723]I have some bricks in my back yard. I'll just use those until I find someone with an IDS tool that isn't so greedy.[/QUOTE]
You don't have feet?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47727727]Id rather have a 5.4 2v (or 3v) in the vic
Actually fuck that gimme a V10 triton like that one guy. While youre at it Ill take a nice big supercharger and a cowl hood to hide it all under.[/QUOTE]
I'd love to have a truck with the new 2015 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Turbo Diesel
[editline]15th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47727752]You don't have feet?[/QUOTE]
No, just stumps.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47724156]I've been looking at VW Corrados and Scirrocos. Terrible idea? Y/N[/QUOTE]
Fuck no it ain't a terrible idea.
The G80 is the best engine ever based off the simple ass vw mk1 gti engine. The vr6 is kinda maitency but otherwise fine.
My turn off was FWD.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47726132]My SRI makes throttle-blipping sound like a giant bubble ascending and popping out of primordial ooze.
BWOP
BWOP
I love the intensity of the intake note. Even if I'm losing power from the stock airbox, I could care less, I keep it on just for the sound.[/QUOTE]
My LS makes really angry sounds and makes all the right noise but it's slow as shit really, it probably makes 110-115whp on a proper Dynapack chassis dyno. Oh well, someday it'll make turbo noises instead with a cutout and a ITR stock 2.5" exhaust.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;47727270]Would changing WHERE the intake is have any effect?
Right now the air intake is on the side of the truck. If I moved it so that it was facing the front and air was forced into it while driving would that be beneficial, harmful, or no change?
[/QUOTE]
Not really.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47727771]Fuck no it ain't a terrible idea.
The G80 is the best engine ever based off the simple ass vw mk1 gti engine. The vr6 is kinda maitency but otherwise fine.
My turn off was FWD.[/QUOTE]
The world needs more straight piped VR6's flying around, I definitely approve of any VR6 VW's.
This whole page gave me syphilis.
Literally the cancer of the land. When a mother fucker asks me to use my SCREWDRIVER to do their install in the parking lot instead of paying me I still say NO. I charge that guy $5. They say "I could buy a screwdriver for that much".
GOOD, then go do it. Don't come asking to use my tools that I USE TO MAKE MONEY to avoid PAYING ME.
Holy Christ that touches a nerve with me. When I pay good money for a tool it's to make me money. Not to allow some stranger I don't know to work on their own car.
If you can't afford a tool, you need to pay someone a sum of money or equal value in some form of labor who can afford the tool. That's all there is to it.
When I need to balance my rims I still slip my old shop owner a $5 just for using the machine, and do all the work myself plus bring my own weights. I slipped a buddy a $5 to use his heater garage once this winter for an hour or so, too. It's only fair. I caught another employee using my expensive drill the other day without asking.. and he bought me lunch because of it.
Please, please please don't be the guy who always tries to use tools and get handouts. Even if you do know someone with one who's willing to not charge $50, slip him some dough or bring him lunch, or something if he does it. Lord knows he'll have a little bit better day because of it.
Thanks to slayer, I have a road trip to Columbus Ohio to go pick up a Core support for my EP3, as well as a hood and possibly some other things this guy might have.
Yay 8 hour drive.
[QUOTE=clutch2;47728067]This whole page gave me syphilis.
Literally the cancer of the land. When a mother fucker asks me to use my SCREWDRIVER to do their install in the parking lot instead of paying me I still say NO. I charge that guy $5. They say "I could buy a screwdriver for that much".
GOOD, then go do it. Don't come asking to use my tools that I USE TO MAKE MONEY to avoid PAYING ME.
Holy Christ that touches a nerve with me. When I pay good money for a tool it's to make me money. Not to allow some stranger I don't know to work on their own car.
If you can't afford a tool, you need to pay someone a sum of money or equal value in some form of labor who can afford the tool. That's all there is to it.
When I need to balance my rims I still slip my old shop owner a $5 just for using the machine, and do all the work myself plus bring my own weights. I slipped a buddy a $5 to use his heater garage once this winter for an hour or so, too. It's only fair. I caught another employee using my expensive drill the other day without asking.. and he bought me lunch because of it.
Please, please please don't be the guy who always tries to use tools and get handouts. Even if you do know someone with one who's willing to not charge $50, slip him some dough or bring him lunch, or something if he does it. Lord knows he'll have a little bit better day because of it.[/QUOTE]
Learn to read. I'm not fucking saying I shouldn't have to pay at all. I'm saying $50 is a RETARDED amount of money to ask for for 10 seconds worth of work.
Like, I'd gladly slip the guy $5-$10 to either let me use his IDS tool for a few seconds or do it for me, considering it's literally one option that has to be changed. But $50? That's bullshit
[QUOTE=clutch2;47728067]This whole page gave me syphilis.
Literally the cancer of the land. When a mother fucker asks me to use my SCREWDRIVER to do their install in the parking lot instead of paying me I still say NO. I charge that guy $5. They say "I could buy a screwdriver for that much".
GOOD, then go do it. Don't come asking to use my tools that I USE TO MAKE MONEY to avoid PAYING ME.
Holy Christ that touches a nerve with me. When I pay good money for a tool it's to make me money. Not to allow some stranger I don't know to work on their own car.
If you can't afford a tool, you need to pay someone a sum of money or equal value in some form of labor who can afford the tool. That's all there is to it.
When I need to balance my rims I still slip my old shop owner a $5 just for using the machine, and do all the work myself plus bring my own weights. I slipped a buddy a $5 to use his heater garage once this winter for an hour or so, too. It's only fair. I caught another employee using my expensive drill the other day without asking.. and he bought me lunch because of it.
Please, please please don't be the guy who always tries to use tools and get handouts. Even if you do know someone with one who's willing to not charge $50, slip him some dough or bring him lunch, or something if he does it. Lord knows he'll have a little bit better day because of it.[/QUOTE]
I'm glad I'm really good friends with my neighbor who has a mechanics wet dream of a garage. If he needs help with anything, I help him. I need help with anything, he helps me. The amount of tools/nails/screws/clamps/etc shared between us is fucking insane. Literally the best neighbor I got.
I wouldnt accept money from someone for using my tools granted I knew them ,and my policy on people borrowing my tools is ask first and dont break it.
I work with these people every day the last thing I want to do is hold something over their heads over something minor.
[editline]14th May 2015[/editline]
This saturday I am gonna help my coworker with his civic and Ill see if he will lend me a hand with my Chrysler.
Our neighbor once borrowed our circular saw for like, a year, while he built his shed.
When he gave it back he gave it back with two new blades.
Very nice of him.
Man the PCM on my truck buzzes so fucking loud. Ford confirmed using bees for relays.
[QUOTE=Whitefox08;47728351]Man the PCM on my truck buzzes so fucking loud. Ford confirmed using bees for relays.[/QUOTE]
What kind of bees are you using in your truck?
Mine came with standard European Honeybees but I removed them and added aftermarket Africanized Honeybees for extra power.
[QUOTE=crazycory65;47728077]Thanks to slayer, I have a road trip to Columbus Ohio to go pick up a Core support for my EP3, as well as a hood and possibly some other things this guy might have.
Yay 8 hour drive.[/QUOTE]
Try not to come back with too much cool JDM stuffs, I plan to roadtrip a couple days down to socal to visit Hmotorsonline someday. I'd rather pack a truck with a few motors and save the shipping. I've always wanted a F20B H2B swapped daily and a couple spare B20's, stuff is so cheap that you could make money just selling it locally.
I'd see if they have any CTR/DC5 ITR stuff that you can put on your car like suspension, usually they sell it dirt cheap because people don't want suspension that doesn't slam your car.
[editline]15th May 2015[/editline]
I found some videos of InlineFour assembling a brand new RDOT B18C5 Honda OEM engine from a couple years back. Head was cast in 2005, 3 years after the last Integra Type-R DC2 was sold. Honda doesn't really do crate motors so all this kind of stuff is super hush hush on specifics and part numbers. At least a few of these parts were probably the last in the warehouses as well.
[video=youtube;l63hsAEd-Jc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l63hsAEd-Jc[/video]
[video=youtube;BEzXgCithZ4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEzXgCithZ4[/video]
Really cool shit, all these parts cost roughly a brand new Honda Fit. :v: It was also smogged/ref'd in Cali.
That awesome moment where a week after a transmission rebuild you're 700km from home and suddenly second gear no longer wants to mesh. Thank fuck the rebuild is still under warranty because dammit, I'm going to rip Mr. Transmission a new asshole for this.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47725660]The grease usually prevents the metal clip contact from seizing to the plug and tearing off of the wire, I had this problem with some Bosch wires after 20k miles. Had to use a spare wire I had sitting around for a week while a fresh set of Denso wires was shipped. Wasn't really impressed with the quality of the $40(autozone) Bosch wires while the $17 Denso(rockauto) wires felt better in design. I'd probably bet on a bad wire/cap/rotor, you should visually inspect your cap/rotor. You can also clean up the old contacts in them a little if they are really corroded to troubleshoot a little but if you take too much off it'll get even worse.[/QUOTE]
Aha. I bought a set of Bosch wires, a cap and a rotor so hopefully that advice will do. I'll add some grease inside to make sure I can get them off again, haha.
Here's a picture from inside the cap. Looks pretty normal I think.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/J7ACnQX.jpg[/t]
The contact point on the rotor looks the same. Guess it won't hurt to replace all of it, at least it'll isolate the issue if it persists. Anyone see something wrong here?
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