• Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
    5,003 replies, posted
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47805658]I may have stumbled onto something with all this yugo talk. It seems that it's part of the liquidation of someone's collection in storage. [url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/5012653995.html[/url] There's a low mileage 300zx in there.[/QUOTE] Sounds like a total steal for $1000, definitely check it out. The El Camino and the Mustang sound pretty cool too but I'm guessing they'll try to make all the money off those.
The only one with a separate ad is the 300zx. It looks nice, but it's automatic. [url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/5003510661.html[/url] Wait, it's salvage, what did I expect? :v:
So.. the rim decision is proving to be really, really difficult. Choosing a set for an all red NSX is a delicate process. If it were a coupe with the black roof.. or any other color, we'd be in. Black has a ton of good options and so does white, blue, etc. But red is such a gaudy color to begin with the contrasts need to be perfect. I'd love gold or bronze, but those only look good on ones with a black roof. The wrong set of silvers makes the car look like a Ferrari. So I've stumbled onto these so far; [img]http://dudesphotography.smugmug.com/Cars/Bugeye-on-18x95-Grids-White/i-CPJPGz7/0/L/IMG9720-L.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6799207942_eb6d9330a6_b.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.iputinwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/s2k_xd9_mbg_800.jpg[/img] Problem with the last set, the Work XD9s is that my friend has those on his Subaru I'm pretty sure. That's no good! The search continues.. I'm still hoping to see a set that I go 'WOW!' with. That IS how I feel about the Rota Grid / Volk Te37 rims.. but lots and lots of people run those on NSXs and I was hoping to get something that wasn't a 'go to' [img]http://photos.arminausejo.com/Events/Car-Shows/NOS-Forum-Fest-2010/DSC3630/942321046_c3xWW-O.jpg[/img] They do look good polished, though. I doubt it'd be real Volks because I don't want to get a set of $2k rims and then curb them oopsie. Also... waaaaawyea [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rays-Volk-Racing-GramLights-57S-Pro-Titanium-RMC-18x9-5-19x10-350Z-G35-S14-/251920218718?hash=item3aa79d7a5e&vxp=mtr[/url]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47805402] [t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ec/KIF_0001_reg.JPG[/t] The Reliant Robin is worse at being a car than a Yugo anyways.[/QUOTE] You Americans just dont understand the Robin
Went to the track again yesterday to test the car after we got a new gearing setup (Much much shorter now together with a better limited slip diff) Some sloppy driving vids [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h1zz810Bd0[/media] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTophpGsMnM[/media] Ordered a complete set of polyester platework, should save me a staggering 120kg or more with some other weight loss plans we have.
[QUOTE=Tmaxx;47805323]if the yugo isn't the worst car, then what is?[/QUOTE] We should have a shittiest car competition. I nominate older Geo metro, Yugo, and trabant. [editline]26th May 2015[/editline] Oh and all those fugly cambered cars reminded me, I got some new tie rod inners for the vic, they were a little worn. I emailed a local place to see how much a two wheel alignment would be, but they haven't replied yet. Anyone know what tire muffler alignment place usually charge?
I'd say the worst car isn't like the Yugo, Trabant, or Metro, at least they have a sort of personality to them, I'd argue that a car with absolutely no personality would be far worse to drive, look at, or even think about. The sort of cars that are so uncharacteristically boring that they don't even cross your mind. This has character [IMG]http://harkavot.co.il/images%5Cimages%5C87256.JPG[/IMG] This doesn't [IMG]http://www.carlustblog.com/images/2008/06/17/boring3.jpg[/IMG]
But that Toyota is a reliable car, that lasts forever. Boringness aside, it does its job well. The same can't be said for the commiecars. [editline]26th May 2015[/editline] Just because some things are rare doesn't mean they're collectibles. The yugo was made as cheaply as possible, they're literally disposable.
a truly bad car is a terrible car made by a company that should know better cheap crap slavshit is what you expect from them
What trait are he measuring shittiness on? Reliability, usability, price, performance, or character? If its character were judging I'd definitely agree any of the 90s-00s econo-turds need to be scrapped, melted down, and turned into literally anything else.
Just finished plastidipping my first wheel: [t]http://i.imgur.com/Vw157vO.jpg[/t] Didn't go too well, kicked some sand into it during the 4th layer, tried to get it off but that just made it worse. Oh well.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47808185]What trait are he measuring shittiness on? Reliability, usability, price, performance, or character? If its character were judging I'd definitely agree any of the 90s-00s econo-turds need to be scrapped, melted down, and turned into literally anything else.[/QUOTE] I'm going based on performance and reliability. Not really focusing on character since that's all up the person in question, since I DO like the look of the old shitty commiecars. I just could never own something that is that bad.
[QUOTE=clutch2;47805980]So.. the rim decision is proving to be really, really difficult. Choosing a set for an all red NSX is a delicate process. If it were a coupe with the black roof.. or any other color, we'd be in. Black has a ton of good options and so does white, blue, etc. But red is such a gaudy color to begin with the contrasts need to be perfect. I'd love gold or bronze, but those only look good on ones with a black roof. The wrong set of silvers makes the car look like a Ferrari. So I've stumbled onto these so far; [img]http://dudesphotography.smugmug.com/Cars/Bugeye-on-18x95-Grids-White/i-CPJPGz7/0/L/IMG9720-L.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6799207942_eb6d9330a6_b.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.iputinwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/s2k_xd9_mbg_800.jpg[/img] Problem with the last set, the Work XD9s is that my friend has those on his Subaru I'm pretty sure. That's no good! The search continues.. I'm still hoping to see a set that I go 'WOW!' with. That IS how I feel about the Rota Grid / Volk Te37 rims.. but lots and lots of people run those on NSXs and I was hoping to get something that wasn't a 'go to' [img]http://photos.arminausejo.com/Events/Car-Shows/NOS-Forum-Fest-2010/DSC3630/942321046_c3xWW-O.jpg[/img] They do look good polished, though. I doubt it'd be real Volks because I don't want to get a set of $2k rims and then curb them oopsie. Also... waaaaawyea [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rays-Volk-Racing-GramLights-57S-Pro-Titanium-RMC-18x9-5-19x10-350Z-G35-S14-/251920218718?hash=item3aa79d7a5e&vxp=mtr[/url][/QUOTE] White steelies.
I used to race a geo metro on the 1/4 mile , 19 seconds isn't very fun. [editline]26th May 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=Birdman101;47808004]We should have a shittiest car competition. I nominate older Geo metro, Yugo, and trabant. [editline]26th May 2015[/editline] Oh and all those fugly cambered cars reminded me, I got some new tie rod inners for the vic, they were a little worn. I emailed a local place to see how much a two wheel alignment would be, but they haven't replied yet. Anyone know what tire muffler alignment place usually charge?[/QUOTE] 54.59$ at my local shop.
Why would you race a Geo metro?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47808549]Why would you race a Geo metro?[/QUOTE] It's a cheap lemon. Why not race a Geo Metro?
So I've got a problem, and I'm hoping someone here could help me out. I'm going to have more info when I get into town and can actually start pulling shit apart, but I'd rather get everything I know out now for the purposes of finding potential issues. About 10 months ago, the alternator in my '99 Buick Regal GS died. We replaced it, and after a slight mistake on our part (not charging the battery before installing the alt) we replaced it again the next day. 5 months later, it died again. This time I did the installation right, and made sure my terminals were clean and the wiring harness looked intact. About two months ago, after my battery died due to some idiocy on my part, we charged it and noticed a slight rattling coming from my alt. Voltage was still fine, and we couldn't see any moving parts, and I wasn't in a position to rip her out and open her up, so I just let it be. On Saturday, my alt died again, after the rattling gradually got louder and louder. Note: The past two times the alt died, it did not have the rattling issue. Now, I have a lifetime warranty on my alternator, so it doesn't cost me anything other than time to replace them, but it's a goddamn hassle when I'm not in town and I have to attempt to drive 50+ miles without my alternator. Other issues with the car (in case they could be related, though I doubt some of them are): Leak in the exhaust, behind the driver's seat. Driver-side window won't roll up more than a millimeter at a time. Sunroof won't quite seal (seems like it's off the track). If anyone has any ideas, I'd like to hear them. It should only take me an hour to get into town, but I may have to call AAA to get a tow if I don't make it. And if you need any other information, I'd love to provide.
Some of the trade offers I'm getting are silly. "Hi would you be interested in a 1985 Toyota Corolla GTS coupe for a trade? Has 124k, needs work though doesnt run." No thanks. "I have a 1996 suburban with pink and smog in hand. Runs good, needs some things here and there but nothing that has to do with it running or stopping. 239k miles." Comes with pics of a rusty fucked up suburban. I guess this is what I expected, but the longer the ad stays up, the shitier the cars get.
[QUOTE=WastedJamacan;47808645]So I've got a problem, and I'm hoping someone here could help me out. I'm going to have more info when I get into town and can actually start pulling shit apart, but I'd rather get everything I know out now for the purposes of finding potential issues. About 10 months ago, the alternator in my '99 Buick Regal GS died. We replaced it, and after a slight mistake on our part (not charging the battery before installing the alt) we replaced it again the next day. 5 months later, it died again. This time I did the installation right, and made sure my terminals were clean and the wiring harness looked intact. About two months ago, after my battery died due to some idiocy on my part, we charged it and noticed a slight rattling coming from my alt. Voltage was still fine, and we couldn't see any moving parts, and I wasn't in a position to rip her out and open her up, so I just let it be. On Saturday, my alt died again, after the rattling gradually got louder and louder. Note: The past two times the alt died, it did not have the rattling issue. Now, I have a lifetime warranty on my alternator, so it doesn't cost me anything other than time to replace them, but it's a goddamn hassle when I'm not in town and I have to attempt to drive 50+ miles without my alternator. Other issues with the car (in case they could be related, though I doubt some of them are): Leak in the exhaust, behind the driver's seat. Driver-side window won't roll up more than a millimeter at a time. Sunroof won't quite seal (seems like it's off the track). If anyone has any ideas, I'd like to hear them. It should only take me an hour to get into town, but I may have to call AAA to get a tow if I don't make it. And if you need any other information, I'd love to provide.[/QUOTE] Resident W-Body expert here. (Fixed over dozens of these cars / did just about anything you can imagine to them.) For your alternator, just get a GOOD replacement or a junkyard unit with low miles, the regulator is probably bad in those cheap you might have gotten first. Get a good battery as well. Once both are in check, the next thing I would suggest is to check if your grounds are good. One at the body under the battery tray, one at the transmission under the exhaust crossover/above starter, easy to see really. Then check the positive cable that goes from the alt to the battery. é Exhaust leak is your resonator being rusty and taking a shit, replace with a cheap 40$ glasspack (Requires welding.) or get a cheap Walker catback and replace the whole thing from the downpipe to the rear bumper. Not too expensive, easy to change, literally 2 bolts and 5-8 hangers depending if you have dual or single mufflers. Driver side window : Weak windows motor, or crap in the track, can remove the door panel to go see if it is the later inside with a good flashlight. Two bolts(T30 torx usually.) and clips to get to. Sunroof tracks might be bent, clean em good, check the tracks for defects, if nothing, check the actual rubber seal around the sunroof, sun might have damaged it. Good thing for you, W-Bodies are piss easy to work on. Tips for you in the future : Consider doing the LIM gasket, the coolant elbows(Two plastic elbows on the alternator bracket.), Valve cover gaskets are probably leaking too. Check for rust in the trunk, pull the carpet on both sides and look at the strut towers, chances are they are getting there.
Here's what I'm doing with my spare time off school.... I stay at school to fix my car [t]http://puu.sh/i1sh6.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1sLq.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1sOc.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1siD.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1sjv.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1sjV.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1sl9.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i1sny.jpg[/t]
In about two weeks time I'll finally be a car owner again. I managed to find a Nissan Sunny Coupe! (Or Nissan RZ-1) [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/30bz020.jpg[/IMG] It needs some work but the car drives and is in a good condition. Probably going to try and find a GTi bodykit, or something that looks like it.
How is this for worst car the Pinto.
Has anyone else been noticing FP getting a facelift? [editline]26th May 2015[/editline] found the post on it after I posted -_- [url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1465833[/url]
I could've sworn there was one East German car where the are air vents leading to the fuel tank because the car doesn't have injectors/carbs etc. it depended on the air moving into the tanks creating pressure and pushing the fuel to the engine. I vote that for worst car.
A Trabant? They have a gravity fed fuel system with no fuel pump.
Yep so it seems that when the dealer reflashed my ECU, it solved my pre-det problems. I was really dogging on it today and couldn't get it to ping. Fucking glad I can finally WOT without worrying about burning a hole in a piston. But what could have caused my ecu to lose timing to begin with? Clutch, please explain to me how this post is dumb.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;47810861]How is this for worst car the Pinto.[/QUOTE] Pintos aren't worst-car-ever bad.
[QUOTE=Tmaxx;47811680]Yep so it seems that when the dealer reflashed my ECU, it solved my pre-det problems. I was really dogging on it today and couldn't get it to ping. Fucking glad I can finally WOT without worrying about burning a hole in a piston. But what could have caused my ecu to lose timing to begin with?[/QUOTE] Not WOTing enough, man. WOT more. But no, really, it's probably actually a timing related issue that caused it to start or possibly just a defective ECU. Keep an eye on it, and if it starts to act up again I'd replace the ECU entirely, even if it's super-cheap (sarcasm).
[QUOTE=JesseR92;47810861]How is this for worst car the Pinto.[/QUOTE] [t]http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34238144/Pinto/20131130_190018.jpg[/t] You best take that back boy. The Pinto is a work of art.
That will be forever marred by its knack for bursting into flames.
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