Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
I'm going to turn my Accord into the equivalent of the NSX.
Suspension, engine, sound even the electric power steering if I can make it fit.
I'll likely never own an NSX. But IF I can make it drive, handle and sound, even moderately, like one it'll be very close to my dream, and that'll be good enough for me.
Not saying it's not going to be a plethora of work, time and money but it'll certainly be the nicest 95 Accord to ever see the pavement. (probable pipe dream, what ever)
[QUOTE=Tmaxx;47813275]lowered 2008 sierra standard cab/shortbed with a 5.3, when i don't take my bike, I take that truck.
The added stresses of having such a stiff suspension on a car with a unibody like the nsx can cause it to weaken over time, and shitty camber can cause a lot of wear on suspension components.
[editline]26th May 2015[/editline]
not to mention, being any lower than they come, it WILL scrape, and rust, and fuck up metal.[/QUOTE]
The NSX is aluminum, the chassis was designed well enough to be used as a racecar pretty much from the factory floor. I've never ever heard of a single Honda ever having chassis issues due to lowering unless that chassis was slammed against the ground and basically wrecked with the ground. I know someone who drove at least tens of thousands of miles in a car for many years that he had to cut the shock towers out of because the upper control arms could almost hit the hood. He had like boxes of broken axles, upper control arms and a few oil pans.That car supposedly had to have the floor patched a few times due to rubbing. He would have to pull road reflectors out of the mudguards on his car because he scraped them off the road. Hell it was on the road up until recently with the current owner totaled it.
Unibody cars have frame rails designed into them just like a body on frame car except they are built into the body and are part of it. Unless you live in some sort of piece of shit salt state where you get cars that literally break in half or fall apart anyways a decently made unibody car will never experience anything remotely of this sort.
Anyways,
I like wheel gap, a little wheel gap looks great. I'm not a fan of tucked tires really although on some cars it can look good.
[t]http://ivyleagueeast.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/HKSPD11-527.jpg[/t]
[t]http://www.moyanodesign.com/nsx/DSC08880_1.jpg[/t]
[t]https://36.media.tumblr.com/b5546e58b5b8398e901dad383160704a/tumblr_nenrqkq27q1u0aonfo1_500.jpg[/t]
Anything more than this on an NSX to me seems like it would just ruin driving it to me. When I buy suspension I buy it for function first. Any sort of stiffer/better spring will always lower the car. As long as you don't have crazy wheel gap like a brand new stock Integra/Civic. Your wheel gap should be a smooth even curve that runs along with the tire.
Unlike this
[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9c/3RD-Acura-Integra.jpg[/t]
More like this
[t]http://40.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m1x4fqpBfh1qk65n6o1_1280.jpg[/t]
This was so much nicer when the thread was in its own subforum and didn't get the kind of... attention it has now.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;47814500]This was so much nicer when the thread was in its own subforum and didn't get the kind of... attention it has now.[/QUOTE]
I'm not sure what you mean by attention but I kind of like the speed it goes now, I always felt like the AA forum was really slow as sometimes it would take a week to go a page.
radiator shopping
Local Store: $150- in stock
RockAuto: $85 + $20 shipping. 1 week.
Fuck that, I'm just going to pay the extra $$ and do it same day.
the bay area is a fucking awful place to look for a car.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47814530]I'm not sure what you mean by attention but I kind of like the speed it goes now, I always felt like the AA forum was really slow as sometimes it would take a week to go a page.[/QUOTE]
It's kinda like being able to listen in to every conversation at a car meetup at once. You'll hear some smart conversations, and some not so much.
[QUOTE=clutch2;47805980]So.. the rim decision is proving to be really, really difficult. Choosing a set for an all red NSX is a delicate process. If it were a coupe with the black roof.. or any other color, we'd be in. Black has a ton of good options and so does white, blue, etc.
But red is such a gaudy color to begin with the contrasts need to be perfect. I'd love gold or bronze, but those only look good on ones with a black roof.
The wrong set of silvers makes the car look like a Ferrari.
So I've stumbled onto these so far;
[img]http://dudesphotography.smugmug.com/Cars/Bugeye-on-18x95-Grids-White/i-CPJPGz7/0/L/IMG9720-L.jpg[/img]
[img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6799207942_eb6d9330a6_b.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.iputinwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/s2k_xd9_mbg_800.jpg[/img]
Problem with the last set, the Work XD9s is that my friend has those on his Subaru I'm pretty sure. That's no good!
The search continues.. I'm still hoping to see a set that I go 'WOW!' with.
That IS how I feel about the Rota Grid / Volk Te37 rims.. but lots and lots of people run those on NSXs and I was hoping to get something that wasn't a 'go to'
[img]http://photos.arminausejo.com/Events/Car-Shows/NOS-Forum-Fest-2010/DSC3630/942321046_c3xWW-O.jpg[/img]
They do look good polished, though. I doubt it'd be real Volks because I don't want to get a set of $2k rims and then curb them oopsie.
Also... waaaaawyea
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rays-Volk-Racing-GramLights-57S-Pro-Titanium-RMC-18x9-5-19x10-350Z-G35-S14-/251920218718?hash=item3aa79d7a5e&vxp=mtr[/url][/QUOTE]
I've always wanted a red car with white TE-37's. I think it looks so good.
Just look at the color combo, ignore the stance/parts
[img]http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/nisei41.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Jalcober;47811604]A Trabant? They have a gravity fed fuel system with no fuel pump.[/QUOTE]
Quite similar, but the car I'm thinking of is a compact/mini/microcar and has distinct intake scoops at the side for functions said earlier.
[editline] ur a faget[/editline]
Found it, its the Goggomobile.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32814946/800px-Glas_Goggomobil_T_250_1968_01.jpg[/t]
just look a that cute little thing
[QUOTE=Tmaxx;47813275]lowered 2008 sierra standard cab/shortbed with a 5.3, when i don't take my bike, I take that truck.
The added stresses of having such a stiff suspension on a car with a unibody like the nsx can cause it to weaken over time, and shitty camber can cause a lot of wear on suspension components.
[editline]26th May 2015[/editline]
not to mention, being any lower than they come, it WILL scrape, and rust, and fuck up metal.[/QUOTE]
Aluminium has worse fatigue endurance compared to ferrous materials sure, but how do you know the increased magnitude in the internal stresses in the system? No hookes law isn't used for dynamic loading. Just because it might be higher isn't grounds for automatic failure
Thinking about getting a Foam Lance, has anyone here ever used one?
[video=youtube;pmZlfFmbrNE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmZlfFmbrNE[/video]
I think it would be super awesome to dump in some purple power with it and use it to clean some engine bays of which I have at least 4-5 cars I should do this on. I don't really get my Integra that dirty that often anymore as my Civic gets most of the random runabout tasks so it could really help with that too.
Oh and sudssssss
Fuck.
I had to pop me some popcorn using my patent pending flood water technique.
Stivo I like you.
Tmaxx Why must you own a lowered truck. Silly boy. Don't fret over that hog or what ever small animal you run over.
Clutch... Ohh clutch. I don't know the deal with all the fab and fame of owing a nsx, miatia, what ever have you. But I do say. THOES FUCKIBG EHEELS YOU POSTED EARLYER COST MORE THAN ALL MY VEHICLES TOGETHER. YOU MAD MAN.
[editline]27th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47814915]Thinking about getting a Foam Lance, has anyone here ever used one?
[video=youtube;pmZlfFmbrNE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmZlfFmbrNE[/video]
I think it would be super awesome to dump in some purple power with it and use it to clean some engine bays of which I have at least 4-5 cars I should do this on. I don't really get my Integra that dirty that often anymore as my Civic gets most of the random runabout tasks so it could really help with that too.
Oh and sudssssss[/QUOTE]
Purple power
Ahahahaha
Enjoy your forever etched everything.
I think it's just TOO powerful to use in a shiney enginebay.
Like seriously... If it touches aluminum. She's etched. And for good.
Im thinking about replacing my golf with a japanese car. Any recomendations? I was thinking honda jazz with the new 2 spark plug per cylinder engine. What do you guys think
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47814915]Thinking about getting a Foam Lance, has anyone here ever used one?
[video=youtube;pmZlfFmbrNE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmZlfFmbrNE[/video]
I think it would be super awesome to dump in some purple power with it and use it to clean some engine bays of which I have at least 4-5 cars I should do this on. I don't really get my Integra that dirty that often anymore as my Civic gets most of the random runabout tasks so it could really help with that too.
Oh and sudssssss[/QUOTE]
Depends on what you call a "foam lance". When I was in the fire department, I got to use a foam system. It has a cannister that screws on the end of the 2.5" jumper hose on the front of the truck, then has a hose with a nozzle coming out of the cannister. It's really great for car fires. Also, it shoots foam 100'-150'.
If you mean something to wash cars? No.
aaww I missed the biker/ricer argument
I make joke please no eat me
Anyways, whats the cheapest way to get a tune on my crown vic? I learned that the throttle lag is built in to the stock tune and I fucking DETEST IT. Id rather not spend 600$ on an OBDII reflashing tool and 150$ on a custom tune just to use the tool once. Could I get an OBDII to USB cable and use some software? Or maybe is there somewhere I could rent a reflashing tool?
My friend has had heaps of luck tuning stock ECU's on his subarus only using OBDII to USB and some software. Maybe if you could get your hands on a scan tool you could see if there's a way to reprogram your nanny throttle.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47815728]aaww I missed the biker/ricer argument
I make joke please no eat me
Anyways, whats the cheapest way to get a tune on my crown vic? I learned that the throttle lag is built in to the stock tune and I fucking DETEST IT. Id rather not spend 600$ on an OBDII reflashing tool and 150$ on a custom tune just to use the tool once. Could I get an OBDII to USB cable and use some software? Or maybe is there somewhere I could rent a reflashing tool?[/QUOTE]
Unfortunately, you can't. Throttle response is not something you can just change like tire size or axle ratio. It requires a full "tune". When you tune a vehicle, the tuner stores your stock tune and "marries" itself with your PCM. That means you can only use a tuner on one vehicle at a time. So you need, at the minimum, a programmer. With a Ford, I HIGHLY suggest an SCT programmer. The X4s are around $300-$400.
Now, SCT sells their Advantage 3 software, which allows you to write custom tunes. It's around $300-$400 for the software. Then you have to learn how to write tunes and hope you don't fuck something up.
Overall, it's just best to buy a programmer and have someone write you a tune for it.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;47815789]My friend has had heaps of luck tuning stock ECU's on his subarus only using OBDII to USB and some software. Maybe if you could get your hands on a scan tool you could see if there's a way to reprogram your nanny throttle.[/QUOTE]
Subi != Ford. If that were possible, I wouldn't have a programmer for my Mustang.
Let me get this straight:
When you use a tuner it sucks the brains out of your car and stores it in the tuner and vice versa, so I could not just borrow someone else's tuner? Also, there are some places on the internet like blue oval chips that make a tune for your make model and year. Could I get a tune from them and put it on the car ecu with that advantage 3 software?
The destruction continues
[t]http://puu.sh/i2qFP.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i2qK4.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i2qMQ.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i2qPe.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/i2qPO.jpg[/t]
The difference between the second and third pic is that it's point welded
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47815994]Let me get this straight:
When you use a tuner it sucks the brains out of your car and stores it in the tuner and vice versa, so I could not just borrow someone else's tuner? Also, there are some places on the internet like blue oval chips that make a tune for your make model and year. Could I get a tune from them and put it on the car ecu with that advantage 3 software?[/QUOTE]
Some tuners are VIN Locked, some are credit based (Means you have to unlock a specific VIN using credits. IE 50$/Credit, requires 2 to 8 credits to unlock a single car.)
Some tuners quit support and are open as long as you can get the read/write special cables/modules for them. Usually costs a tidy bit less. But you have no support beside from people who still uses those modules.
Is there a way to tell if they are Vin or credit locked?
For instance the SCT x4, this one:[url]http://www.amazon.com/SCT-7015-Power-Flash-Programmer/dp/B00J262R9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432736242&sr=8-1&keywords=sct+x4[/url]
Could I say, use this on my crown Vic and my dads f-150 both? Ive got the 4.6 2v and he's got the 5.4 2v. Exact same motor except for displacement. Same computer as well.
Also would it be possible to buy one used and get an email tune, or is it fucked after being used on one vehicle?
[QUOTE=Tmaxx;47813275]lowered 2008 sierra standard cab/shortbed with a 5.3, when i don't take my bike, I take that truck.
The added stresses of having such a stiff suspension on a car with a unibody like the nsx can cause it to weaken over time, and shitty camber can cause a lot of wear on suspension components.
[editline]26th May 2015[/editline]
not to mention, being any lower than they come, it WILL scrape, and rust, and fuck up metal.[/QUOTE]
[B]For Ferrous metal unibodies[/B]
Metal fatigue is not something to worry about in a car, the chassis is engineered to outlast any and all flexual loading. Also unibody cars have subframes that carry the suspension, which are mounted to the body using rubber bushings, this helps further reduce NVH which in turn reduces flexual loading. Will the frame weaken over time, yeah, but it's so marginal that it can be discounted. Afterall there are unibody cars with 1-2 million or more miles, and if metal fatigue was as severe as you are claiming it to be, then these cars would have had unibody failures (which don't occur).
Cars are overbuilt for the stresses they will see even in the most extreme circumstances. This is done because you can do all of the simulation and modelling you want, but there still may be an unforseen condition that the engineers must account for. And it's accounted for in more strength.
A properly lowered car also has special suspension components and uprated bushings to handle the added stresses of a stiffer suspension, and are engineered to be in place of factory parts and function reliably.
[B]For aluminum and composite unibodies[/B]
Aluminum unibodies on the other hand do have some issues. There are cases of seams splitting and cracks forming in aluminum unibodies (very rare, and limited to D3 Audi A8s with obscene mileage). But aluminum unibodies are also overengineered to the point that metal fatigue due to loading can be forgotten. To get around aluminum's loading issues, most automakers use it in conjunction with steel or carbon fiber, which are less prone to fatigue.
Also, cracks and yielding aren't always the end of the world, in fact yielding [within limits] introduces strain hardening with further increases tensile stress limits until the ultimate tensile stress, and with cracks the area ahead of the crack also yields in ductile materials, so again strain hardening occurs there and the energy required to further grow the crack increases.
materials are complex, and you can get some fucking strong [although a bit brittle] aluminium these days, going in excess of 500MPa in their yield strength
Realistically, how much life is left in an Audi with over 200k miles? There's an Audi TT owned by a senior couple for 4k and they've been touring the US. It needs a new clutch master cylinder.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5018233888.html[/url]
Hell, what are your opinions on the TT in general?
Are you trying to find a job at a salon? A TT is like a cosmotology resumé.
They're a hell of a lot better than my car, just prepare for audicost repairs.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47816317]Is there a way to tell if they are Vin or credit locked?
For instance the SCT x4, this one:[URL]http://www.amazon.com/SCT-7015-Power-Flash-Programmer/dp/B00J262R9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432736242&sr=8-1&keywords=sct+x4[/URL]
Could I say, use this on my crown Vic and my dads f-150 both? Ive got the 4.6 2v and he's got the 5.4 2v. Exact same motor except for displacement. Same computer as well.
Also would it be possible to buy one used and get an email tune, or is it fucked after being used on one vehicle?[/QUOTE]
From the tuner's manual :
[QUOTE]X4 VIN locks (marries) to a single vehicle. You cannot use the device to tune a new or different
vehicle, until you have returned the original vehicle back to stock, which will unlock the device.
You can only change vehicles 5 times before the unit is permanently locked.[/QUOTE]
So yes it locks to a single vehicle, similar to Diesel truck tuners(Smarty for example) and Diablo tuners for big v8, usually LS motors.
Always ALWAYS make sure the previous owner returned the car it was installed on to STOCK stage with the module before buying used, otherwise you'll have a nice paperweight as you cannot get them unlocked most of the time.
HP Tuner for example, is credit based. I think they recently begun selling a Ford option, but it requires you to actually learn how to tune. (Which is always best for a gas engine, unless your engine is factory de-tuned, a pre-made tune won't be exactly a game changer for most.
So I have no idea whats up with my breaks in my 4 runner so far they have lasted me 2 years and still have plenty of meat left in the pads,I would say metalic pads but they dont screech.
Then again for one year on my round trip to and from work I only pressed the breaks 5 times.
Also my Toyota is about 1000~km away from 200,000km
Ohh man that Fury I linked has a CB radio in it, that's so 70s cool it's killing me. Really considering selling my car and a couple of guns and going for it.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47815994]Let me get this straight:
When you use a tuner it sucks the brains out of your car and stores it in the tuner and vice versa, so I could not just borrow someone else's tuner? Also, there are some places on the internet like blue oval chips that make a tune for your make model and year. Could I get a tune from them and put it on the car ecu with that advantage 3 software?[/QUOTE]
If you get a tune made, you don't need the advantage 3 software. The software is for if you're brave enough to try and make your own tune. It allows you to change things like timing, injector pulse width, etc. If you get someone to make a tune for you, all you need is a tuner.
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47816510]Realistically, how much life is left in an Audi with over 200k miles? There's an Audi TT owned by a senior couple for 4k and they've been touring the US. It needs a new clutch master cylinder.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5018233888.html[/url]
Hell, what are your opinions on the TT in general?[/QUOTE]
they understeer like heck
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