• Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
    5,003 replies, posted
[t]http://i.imgur.com/FlPu9Dg.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/gzJNMJ3.jpg[/t] Is this battery I found worth keeping and finding someone who can recharge it, or should I just recycle it? I think it would be perfect for running some auxiliary fans in my trunk and maybe the rear view camera I haven't installed yet. Also, it could be useful for practicing putting together wiring harnesses.
[QUOTE=Xanadu;47847076]Half the thread are Subaru guys[/QUOTE] And the other half are dart guys. [editline]31st May 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47847252][t]http://i.imgur.com/FlPu9Dg.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/gzJNMJ3.jpg[/t] Is this battery I found worth keeping and finding someone who can recharge it, or should I just recycle it? I think it would be perfect for running some auxiliary fans in my trunk and maybe the rear view camera I haven't installed yet. Also, it could be useful for practicing putting together wiring harnesses.[/QUOTE] You'd have to measure it, unless it leaks, in which case it's 100% trash.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47847252][t]http://i.imgur.com/FlPu9Dg.jpg[/t] Is this battery I found worth keeping and finding someone who can recharge it, or should I just recycle it? I think it would be perfect for running some auxiliary fans in my trunk and maybe the rear view camera I haven't installed yet. Also, it could be useful for practicing putting together wiring harnesses.[/QUOTE] If it's been flat for a while and left that way, I'd probably bet a new battery that it's a dead battery.
It's dead. It managed to give 2v before going flat a second later. Is it worth a recharge or should I just recycle it?
If you've got a charger, then sure. If the charger isn't complete shit it'll tell you if the battery is dead before charging.
No reason not to try charging it and bringing it back. Planning on using it for a bike or something? I saw this when I ran to get milk today.. I felt kinda goofy because the first thing I thought was "Holy cow I gotta get pics because I bet Ldesu would think this is neat." Internet life. [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234048/53115%20002_zpskxmnc8ln.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234048/53115%20002_zpskxmnc8ln.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234048/53115%20003_zpsqehesqju.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234048/53115%20003_zpsqehesqju.jpg[/IMG][/URL] That's an oldschool Bently in front of it, too. The Bently's owner is selling the Beetle for a friend. $16k, and it's gorgeous.
Its definitely gorgeous, but I don't think I could ever see myself paying $16k for a beetle.
Missed "the largest midwest MOPAR show" this weekend due to being stupid busy with work. Really nice prices for project cars were found
[IMG]http://i.imgbox.com/dQh3oPmW.jpg[/IMG] NO! BAD CAR! YOU DO [B][U]NOT[/U][/B] DO THAT ON THE DRIVEWAY [IMG]http://i.imgbox.com/hfCxOkvS.jpg[/IMG] oh. [editline]31st May 2015[/editline] Both axle seals are in peices, there is gear oil everywhere. Im surprised my brakes worked at all. Also I need a new axle bearing, a new axle, and all new brake pads, maybe rotors. And the tie rod tool the parts store lent me doesnt fit my tie rods, so I gotta fuck around with a really big crecent wrench. And I work 8-5 every day so I gotta take time off to ride my motorcycle all the way across town to the salvege yard to get an axle before 5, then ride home with an axle stapped to my bike.
Removed my resonator yesterday yay, I recorded the sounds before and after and its still the same. But I am using some shit paper filter though, waiting for a replacement panel filter in the mail. Gonna head to the hardware store and see if I can get things to do this on the cheap : [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32814946/DSC_0057.jpg[/t] I'm talking about the intake and number plate of course. I decided to mod the shit out of this car on the cheap, I don't give a shit about its resale value and shit because if this car is going to get totalled, its going to be by me. Hopefully not in a crash of course. Its a beater car and I'm keeping her that way.
[QUOTE=clutch2;47847741]No reason not to try charging it and bringing it back. Planning on using it for a bike or something? I saw this when I ran to get milk today.. I felt kinda goofy because the first thing I thought was "Holy cow I gotta get pics because I bet Ldesu would think this is neat." Internet life. [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234048/53115%20002_zpskxmnc8ln.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234048/53115%20002_zpskxmnc8ln.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234048/53115%20003_zpsqehesqju.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234048/53115%20003_zpsqehesqju.jpg[/IMG][/URL] That's an oldschool Bently in front of it, too. The Bently's owner is selling the Beetle for a friend. $16k, and it's gorgeous.[/QUOTE] Oh dear That is slightly older than mine and I love the color
Okay I'm not even sure if this is the right thread and this is very random, but it's really annoying me that I can't figure this theory out. It's about dual VVT and the timings at different revs. So like at high rpm the intake valves should be closed late, somewhat into the compression stroke because the charge carries momentum and that helps suck air into the chamber even when the piston begins travelling upwards. So the intake valve closes late therefore it opens late too. That's fine and dandy, however there should be valve overlap at high RPM as well, as the momentum of spent fuel rushing out through the exhaust help sucks intake air in to the cylinder. So because the intake valve opens late as above, the exhaust valve has to close super late (for increased overlap) and that means it opens super late too, and that means the exhaust valve can't open early enough to bleed off pressure from the combustion before the exhaust stroke begins. So how the hell does dual VVT actually work in such a case?
got rid of the mustang to finance the move (moving to longmont,CO the 15th) for 3000$ today sad to see her go but I did make double what I paid for it back for what amounted to about 400$ in parts and a couple weekends of elbow grease. So that leaves my truck ('85 F150 with a 414) and my GF's '74 CJ-5 which is a hell of a lot more manageable for a 1000 mile cross country move. and on the plus side the house we're moving to has a pole barn that was converted to a 3 car garage so I see a lift getting installed in the near future
I'm actually mildly surprised how much I'm liking having a tachometer. Something about having that rising and falling needle when you're going WOT to 60 in 30 seconds just feels right.
Before [T]http://i.imgur.com/i70qrrC.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/FcidbQZ.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/3GLacdB.jpg?1[/t] ^I think that was before I did a final clean After [t]http://i.imgur.com/VSfevW2.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/DnovYVn.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/J5NhxzR.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/L52kmhc.jpg[/t] (bumpers were painted a week after the car so no pics yet) For a first attempt at painting a car... and spraying paint for that matter I think I did pretty good. It isn't perfect but it satisfies me. Clutch2 got me started, a friend showed me his bog skills and my grandma helped set up that spray... 'tent'. It was fully safe I swear! Other than that I did all the work myself between a fulltime job and some commitments.
Awesome, my car is in some serious need of a respray right now. The problem is that I can't afford professional resprays and I don't think my driveway is a good place to DIY it either. Anyway, Intake hole and number plate relocated :dance: Didn't get pictures cause it was already dark when I finished and I was working around with a torch in my mouth. I botched the intake hole job though, used a holesaw that was too big and then the sikaflex wouldn't cure properly getting everywhere. I'm stupid and I didn't wear gloves and now I have sikaflex all over my hands. I have a hand washing exam in 2 weeks :(
[QUOTE=Antdawg;47850377]Okay I'm not even sure if this is the right thread and this is very random, but it's really annoying me that I can't figure this theory out. It's about dual VVT and the timings at different revs. So like at high rpm the intake valves should be closed late, somewhat into the compression stroke because the charge carries momentum and that helps suck air into the chamber even when the piston begins travelling upwards. So the intake valve closes late therefore it opens late too. That's fine and dandy, however there should be valve overlap at high RPM as well, as the momentum of spent fuel rushing out through the exhaust help sucks intake air in to the cylinder. So because the intake valve opens late as above, the exhaust valve has to close super late (for increased overlap) and that means it opens super late too, and that means the exhaust valve can't open early enough to bleed off pressure from the combustion before the exhaust stroke begins. So how the hell does dual VVT actually work in such a case?[/QUOTE] It depends on the VVT system I guess? IIRC some keep the intake valves open for the same period of time, but just at an increased travel? I'm not too informed on VVT systems
[video=youtube;G6S4D14VS7w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6S4D14VS7w[/video]
VTEC isn't the only type of VVT, there are others that operate differently
Standard vtec is really only vvl unless the grind is absolutely fuckboi on you third lobe. Vvt isn't really about that individual compression and expulsion thing you're on about, it just changes the overlap between exhaust and intake to increase the "swirl/cyclone effect" of your combustion chamber(part of the suction thing you mentioned. It means at different RPMs your engine ignites fuel, compresses and vents gasses at varying speeds, causing a cleaner overall burn throughout the rev range. Also the exhaust cam has a different grind than your intake cam, making it have a longer interval of open and close. This is why you shouldnt mix them up. Vvl= variable lift, ala vtec Vvt= variable timing, ala NEO To think of it in a simpler manner, when engine goes slow, gas has more time to exit When engine go fast, gas has less time to exit.
[QUOTE=Gulen;47852077][video=youtube;G6S4D14VS7w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6S4D14VS7w[/video][/QUOTE] Yes VVL is kind of an answer to the dilemma I posted about the intake valve side of things at least, but I was wondering about how the timings work on dual VVT engines that don't have any form of VVL (as many manufacturers do, so it obviously must work). Obviously a CVVL system like Toyota's valvematic is ideal for tuning the engine across different loads and speeds but very few cars have CVVL valvetrains and afaik none have them on the exhaust cam(s). I'm guessing that manufacturers choose to disregard the suction effect on the intake charge when the charge hits the piston (creating a low pressure area behind the charge drawing more in from the manifold) even when it (piston) starts travelling upwards in the compression stroke, in favour of higher overlap at high RPM to draw in extra charge that way. It would have to make sense as the exhaust valves would need to open (and thus) close earlier to bleed off pressure from combustion before the exhaust stroke begins. So at high RPM, I guess the exhaust valves are advanced slightly and the intake valves are advanced much more (to create overlap).
Scrapyard can't pull an axle till tomorrow so I'm up shit creek for a day. Thus, I will repaint my steelies. What's the best type of paint for being tough and flat black? Caliper paint? I'd rather not have to sand all the paint off and prime or anything, I'm just gonna clean them up and knock the surface rust off.
Gonna sell my miata, then buy. I'm pretty much over this trading thing, guy with truck backed out last second (creigslist fucking sucks) and I live close enough to work to bike there. I'm looking at 60s wagons now, there's a 63 nova wagon that's looking pretty good, and a 68 falcon wagon, both very tempting...
You can't seem to make up your mind on what you want lol
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;47852389]Standard vtec is really only vvl unless the grind is absolutely fuckboi on you third lobe. Vvt isn't really about that individual compression and expulsion thing you're on about, it just changes the overlap between exhaust and intake to increase the "swirl/cyclone effect" of your combustion chamber(part of the suction thing you mentioned. It means at different RPMs your engine ignites fuel, compresses and vents gasses at varying speeds, causing a cleaner overall burn throughout the rev range. Also the exhaust cam has a different grind than your intake cam, making it have a longer interval of open and close. This is why you shouldnt mix them up. Vvl= variable lift, ala vtec Vvt= variable timing, ala NEO To think of it in a simpler manner, when engine goes slow, gas has more time to exit When engine go fast, gas has less time to exit.[/QUOTE] vtec is a really watered down term, generally vtec is attributed to the old vvl of the early motors but there was also vtec-e which was a vvc system, 3 stage vtec which was vvl and vvc and now i-vtec which refers to any motor which has vvt who's motors can also include vvl, vvc or vcm. This makes it a pain in the ass to know which K series motors are actually good as the K20A3 like in crazycory65's EP3 Civic Si that makes 145hp stock at the crank while a K20A2 will make 185-190ish and even up to 200 with some tuning and bolt-ons while the other lump struggles to beat the base model motor it replaced. [url]http://www.hondata.com/techk20general.html[/url] There's also i-vtec on the R series motors which uses vvl for a very low cam which will also wide open the throttle and limit the engine through it's cam profile to reduce pumping losses during cruising. [url]http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/RiVTEC/[/url] There's tons of information and charts on vtec, if you want to know about variable valve tech Honda's pretty much done it all. Every motor/platform has different implementations and it changes as new motors are designed as well. [editline]1st June 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=Birdman101;47852936]Scrapyard can't pull an axle till tomorrow so I'm up shit creek for a day. Thus, I will repaint my steelies. What's the best type of paint for being tough and flat black? Caliper paint? I'd rather not have to sand all the paint off and prime or anything, I'm just gonna clean them up and knock the surface rust off.[/QUOTE] BBQ Paint? Caliper paint is ass, I've never managed to get it to cure/stick/dry. Your best bet is lots and lots of coats.
[QUOTE=notlabbet;47853031]Gonna sell my miata, then buy. I'm pretty much over this trading thing, guy with truck backed out last second (creigslist fucking sucks) and I live close enough to work to bike there. I'm looking at 60s wagons now, there's a 63 nova wagon that's looking pretty good, and a 68 falcon wagon, both very tempting...[/QUOTE] Volvo wagons without a doubt
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47853163] BBQ Paint? Caliper paint is ass, I've never managed to get it to cure/stick/dry. Your best bet is lots and lots of coats.[/QUOTE] Caliper paint should work pretty well if you sandblast it properly.
I have a sandblaster, but could I blast it with the tires still on? If not, I deem it too much work.
[QUOTE=adam1172;47849992]Removed my resonator yesterday yay, I recorded the sounds before and after and its still the same. But I am using some shit paper filter though, waiting for a replacement panel filter in the mail. Gonna head to the hardware store and see if I can get things to do this on the cheap : [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32814946/DSC_0057.jpg[/t] I'm talking about the intake and number plate of course. I decided to mod the shit out of this car on the cheap, I don't give a shit about its resale value and shit because if this car is going to get totalled, its going to be by me. Hopefully not in a crash of course. Its a beater car and I'm keeping her that way.[/QUOTE] >follow behind someone on a dirty/dusty road (which i imagine is common in ausland) >engine becomes shrapnel [editline]1st June 2015[/editline] I like that look though but it's not very practical in street cars.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;47853538]I have a sandblaster, but could I blast it with the tires still on? If not, I deem it too much work.[/QUOTE] If you don't start blasting the wheels on purpose you should be fine.
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