Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
It's Regatta blue that's been slightly modified.
[QUOTE=Exigent;47914924]Looking for cars really sucks :v:[/QUOTE]
It's especially horrible if you don't have a car or anyone that can drive you to look at cars, and there's none for sale in your area.
[QUOTE=Gulen;47915642]It's especially horrible if you don't have a car or anyone that can drive you to look at cars, and there's none for sale in your area.[/QUOTE]
or even worse if you deliver pizza and you need one by 4pm
Do I leave the car hot rod style, or do I even it out?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/znJOJ9bh.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47915358]Switched oil from regular conventional to high miles synthetic. P sure the vehicle has been on conventional for its entire life, but this is more of an experiment than a choice. Going to use the synthetic oil for one year to see how the engine reacts in the blaze of summer and in the freeze of winter.[/QUOTE]
something i learned recently is that conventional, over time, can sludge up in seals. Most synthetic, especially high mileage stuff, has anti-sludge detergents in it.
Basically, what i'm saying is expect leaks, especially if you've never done seals. The oil wont MAKE the leaks, it'll just... allow them.
You can also try a heavier oil if it starts leaking. I put castrol 10w30 high mileage in my soup with leaky valve stems and it burns considerably less oil.
[QUOTE=Ridge;47916393]Do I leave the car hot rod style, or do I even it out?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/znJOJ9bh.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
whats hotrod about that?
Low in the front, tall in the back.
Serj would be proud.
[QUOTE=Gulen;47914694]I've also seen people use sensors like you've got on your house windows and doors to check if it's in gear. Could probably use it to check which gear you're in too.[/QUOTE]
Not really sure how'd that work with a solid linkage Honda but I suppose you may be able to.
[QUOTE=Ridge;47916393]Do I leave the car hot rod style, or do I even it out?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/znJOJ9bh.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
I'd bring the rear down a touch and the front up a touch, having a very little bit of rake looks pretty good.
[QUOTE=Del91;47916423]You can also try a heavier oil if it starts leaking. I put castrol 10w30 high mileage in my soup with leaky valve stems and it burns considerably less oil.[/QUOTE]
I burnt more 10w30 Mobil1 than I burn 5w30 Castrol GTX part synthetic, synthetic oils are usually more viscous than conventional and often don't really test what they are advertised as.
Well, presumably, the stick still moves, right? The system in question has the sensors placed on and around the stick.
[video=youtube;iLoZpr6AVJM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLoZpr6AVJM[/video]
[QUOTE=Gulen;47916965]Well, presumably, the stick still moves, right? The system in question has the sensors placed on and around the stick.
[video=youtube;iLoZpr6AVJM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLoZpr6AVJM[/video][/QUOTE]
[t]http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm53/brutabuss/1988%20civic%20dx%20hatch/1988CivicDxHatch8-17-2012003.jpg[/t]
There's really nothing to mount it to, there's just a dust boot inside of the car under the center console.
[QUOTE=Tmaxx;47916398]something i learned recently is that conventional, over time, can sludge up in seals. Most synthetic, especially high mileage stuff, has anti-sludge detergents in it.
Basically, what i'm saying is expect leaks, especially if you've never done seals. The oil wont MAKE the leaks, it'll just... allow them.[/QUOTE]
Its a 15 year old vehicle. I'm not worried if I seep a little oil between changes. I havent had an issue with seals yet, so maybe this will change it.
I'm actually really curious to see how this performs at the depth of winter. When its -20+ out.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47917020][t]http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm53/brutabuss/1988%20civic%20dx%20hatch/1988CivicDxHatch8-17-2012003.jpg[/t]
There's really nothing to mount it to, there's just a dust boot inside of the car under the center console.[/QUOTE]
Make a mount then, you probably wont even have to make a mount, just buy a small angle bracket.
[QUOTE=Ridge;47916393]Do I leave the car hot rod style, or do I even it out?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/znJOJ9bh.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
even it out a little bit. rake is a good thing but that's just too much
[QUOTE=Xanadu;47911086]Asphalt to Auction?[/QUOTE]
Nope. Point A to point A. A whopping Zero-point-Zero feet of movement.
Guys I know jack shit about cars and am looking for a car < $3000.
I just need an auto that works and doesnt look shit, so I won't get laughed at.
Is this alright?
[url]http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gungahlin/cars-vans-utes/2003-ford-falcon-sedan/1080212167[/url]
What cars should I be looking for?
I'm Australian, in NSW if that helps with anything?
Like I said, I know nothing about cars.
Edit:
What about this?
[url]http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/giralang/cars-vans-utes/holden-commodore-2001/1080241300[/url]
There is this circuit, magnetic proximity switch which might be of use here. It's what you'd find in some pedometers or in a tamagotchi or gigapet.
When they get shook, a little magnet passes by the proximity switch and either allows electricity to pass or generates a small charge for a moment.
If the MPS simply acts like a normal switch and not a momentary, you could rig it up with a small [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neodymium_magnet"]neodymium magnet[/URL] on the shifter with the switches attached somehow to the center console where the shifter sits in a gear. With each gear lighting a light on the cluster respective of what gear your in.
But you'd probably need to rig up a really kinda thing so you don't burn out any MPSs because they are small, unless there are bigger one meant to handle larger voltage like 12v.
Well, if you're using the Arduino, it's already taking 5V in, so you'd have to rig up some relays anyways. But there are MPS made for pretty much every voltage, even industrial like 230 or 400V.
I got the rears down about an inch, but I need to lower the spring perches to get the other inch down on them. Couldn't lower it any more by hand, it was too tight.
I also decided to take the dip off the wheels. Also a work in progress.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/FHnZF1Dh.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;47916631]Serj would be proud.[/QUOTE]
I am, Ridge brings a tear to my eye. It's great to see all you guys accepting the master stance.
But it's not "hot rod"
It's "raked forward"
Just as my car is not a "hot rod" nor do I "soup it up" mr. old guy across the street.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;47916873]
I burnt more 10w30 Mobil1 than I burn 5w30 Castrol GTX part synthetic, synthetic oils are usually more viscous than conventional and often don't really test what they are advertised as.[/QUOTE]
Mobil1 is a lower end oil that tends to sheer really bad, it is a well known issue in the Subaru community.
In my case, it sheered so bad that I was lucky to get 300 miles per quart of it in my Impreza. I tried 5w30, 10w30, 10w30 high mileage, with no change.
By the time I read up online and figured out what it was doing, it had basically ruined the engine.
I switched to Rotella T5 10w30 at 200k miles, had an instant rise to 500 miles per quart, and it has heald that for 38k miles.
Bought a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 83k miles. Really nice shape, just some scratches on the outside.
[QUOTE=Exigent;47918483]Bought a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 83k miles. Really nice shape, just some scratches on the outside.[/QUOTE]
Welcome to the hyundai club.
Does yours make the dreaded clunking sound from the rear?
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;47918672]Welcome to the hyundai club.
Does yours make the dreaded clunking sound from the rear?[/QUOTE]
Not that I've noticed.
[QUOTE=Ridge;47918070]I got the rears down about an inch, but I need to lower the spring perches to get the other inch down on them. Couldn't lower it any more by hand, it was too tight.
I also decided to take the dip off the wheels. Also a work in progress.
[/QUOTE]
go more lower :rolleyes:
got the blown steering rack 99% of the way out of the 240 but the fucking v8 is in the way. tried everything I can try without an engine hoist or ruining my oil pan. Gonna try borrowing a hoist so I can swap the racks then finish this fucking car and burn it to the ground.
[T]http://i59.tinypic.com/2ce6vqg.jpg[/T]
Saw this Supra today. This is the worst looking side of it.
What are your thoughts on a Volvo S60 or V70 AWD as a first car for a 18 year old that lives on a mountain? We see some pretty fun winters, and the Fit can't make it up the mountain on the all-season tires. Would the AWD help with that? It would probably be a 2005 or similar year.
The passenger side of mk2 supras is a ding magnet I swear.
[editline]9th June 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=cpt.armadillo;47919275][T]http://i59.tinypic.com/2ce6vqg.jpg[/T]
Saw this Supra today. This is the worst looking side of it.
What are your thoughts on a Volvo S60 or V70 AWD as a first car for a 18 year old that lives on a mountain? We see some pretty fun winters, and the Fit can't make it up the mountain on the all-season tires. Would the AWD help with that? It would probably be a 2005 or similar year.[/QUOTE]
All seasons aren't winter tires
[QUOTE=cpt.armadillo;47919275][T]http://i59.tinypic.com/2ce6vqg.jpg[/T]
Saw this Supra today. This is the worst looking side of it.
What are your thoughts on a Volvo S60 or V70 AWD as a first car for a 18 year old that lives on a mountain? We see some pretty fun winters, and the Fit can't make it up the mountain on the all-season tires. Would the AWD help with that? It would probably be a 2005 or similar year.[/QUOTE]
Get winter tires, you'll still get stuck in a Volvo sled going up a mountain. Otherwise, Volvos are awesome cars and super fucking easy to work on.
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