Automotive Addicts Lounge V2- Why we are all broke:
5,003 replies, posted
[URL="http://www.blocket.se/sodermanland/Audi_A4_1_8T_Sedan_Lagmilare_60900996.htm?ca=12&w=1"]AUDI [/URL]A4 1.8T 05 Manual or [URL="http://www.blocket.se/sodermanland/Volvo_S60_2_4_Business_plus_60693556.htm?ca=12&w=1"]Volvo[/URL] S60 2.4 Business Plus 05 Automatic.
I can get the Volvo for 5K SEK less and i'm going to check the AUDI out tomorrow and see if i can get a better deal for it.
Day by day I discover new problems with my car.
Its been about 1000km since I bought the car and changed the plugs/oil/filters.
The clutch fluid for some reason drastically dropped by 30% in the latest 50km. Bearing in mind thats when the clutch suddenly slipped and wore off like crazy.
Checked the dipstick today and the oil was barely above minimum. Did self diagnostic by setting up a camera by the exhaust and turned the engine but the smoke is completely fine. I've heard about hondas not liking castrol oils but I didn't think it would actually be this bad.
I bet the battery is going to die off next because I can't see shit in the indicator.
Eh whatever, I'll be leaving the car for a month end of this week anyway.
[QUOTE=adam1172;47950652]Day by day I discover new problems with my car.
Its been about 1000km since I bought the car and changed the plugs/oil/filters.
The clutch fluid for some reason drastically dropped by 30% in the latest 50km. Bearing in mind thats when the clutch suddenly slipped and wore off like crazy.
Checked the dipstick today and the oil was barely above minimum. Did self diagnostic by setting up a camera by the exhaust and turned the engine but the smoke is completely fine. I've heard about hondas not liking castrol oils but I didn't think it would actually be this bad.
I bet the battery is going to die off next because I can't see shit in the indicator.
Eh whatever, I'll be leaving the car for a month end of this week anyway.[/QUOTE]
You need a new clutch master and slave, these are really common to replace and a new clutch will absolutely finish them off to the point they piss brake fluid all over your carpet.
Consuming oil is [i]normal[/i], unless you see smoke you shouldn't even be concerned. Give it a diet of good oils and not super thin synthetics that test below what they are rated as. Run Marvels Mystery oil through it for 100 miles before an oil change and let it drain out for about an hour to remove every bit of sludge in the pan you can. Do oil changes as recommended at like 3k miles.
The battery will probably die depending on how old it is, there should be a date sticker somewhere on it visible to you.
It basically sounds like the previous owner never maintained it which is pretty standard for Hondas, unless something breaks nobody replaces parts.
Marvel Is only second by a short hair to Sea Foam, and if you want to go full bore on the cleaning you can use both safely, just with the sea foam you'll need to do an oil change sooner then if you only used Marvel.
I had a 79 Catalina that hadn't had an oil change in almost 10 years, it only ever got a new filter and when I put marvel in it, it fucking dominated it life history of sludge build up plus that of the 10 year oil change neglect. Only reason I didn't do it myself was because I never had the money and it was a project car.
Synthetics are not only rated lower then what they're tested at but don't fill the spaces that conventional oil does, synthetics also have a certain amount of detergents in them to keep sludge from building up which is why any old engine that is switched over from convent to synth appears to spring leaks like a submarine peppered with point blank .50 cal fire.
Depending on what the oil weight that's recommended for your engine and how many miles are on it is basically what dertimines the new weight of oil you'll need to use to slow or nearly halt oil consumption.
Like if new it says to to use 5 or 10w-30 and you've got 150k miles on it and narry a service, you'd likely want to run 10w50 or 20w something, maybe (or certainly) less if the weather is really cold as the oil will be hella thick during the cold months. It's kinda of a math thing, miles + car age x how bad it's been beat on √ how often it's been serviced and/or weather it's it's been serviced regularly.
[sp]I'm bad at math[/sp]
So for the first time since the car has been in my possession, the AC in my trusty Cavalier blows cold.
Threw a can of refrigerant at it and it appears to work for the time being. If it stops, I'll throw some stop leak at it. If I can get a couple summers out of it, that will be great. Depending on a few factors (Insurance cost, living situation, ect) I shouldn't have any problems affording a Fiesta ST... Fuck that's going to be a good day. As much as I love the Cavalier, having a car with such futuristic things as "Power mirrors" and "No rust" is going to be magical.
rust free is overrated
[QUOTE=benjgvps;47951654]So for the first time since the car has been in my possession, the AC in my trusty Cavalier blows cold.
Threw a can of refrigerant at it and it appears to work for the time being. If it stops, I'll throw some stop leak at it. If I can get a couple summers out of it, that will be great. Depending on a few factors (Insurance cost, living situation, ect) I shouldn't have any problems affording a Fiesta ST... Fuck that's going to be a good day. As much as I love the Cavalier, having a car with such futuristic things as "Power mirrors" and "No rust" is going to be magical.[/QUOTE]
I couldn't stand to be without A/C so I pulled the dash out of my Focus and replaced the condenser last summer. That was a fucking job and a half. Sure you don't wanna go with a Focus RS over a Fiesta ST? Those RS's sure are pretty.
Oh my god. Finally a decent deal on an early bronco. (At least in my area, anyway.)
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5069298421.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Propane Addict;47952434]I couldn't stand to be without A/C so I pulled the dash out of my Focus and replaced the condenser last summer. That was a fucking job and a half. Sure you don't wanna go with a Focus RS over a Fiesta ST? Those RS's sure are pretty.[/QUOTE]
The RS is drool worthy for sure, though the Fiesta ST is still pushing my budget. Up here in Canada, the Fiesta ST starts at $30k for a base model after all the taxes and fees are added up. I fucking hate our taxes lol.
I'm just gonna complain a bit.
I've been driving my girlfriends Mitsubishi Carisma the last two weeks or something, but it feels like two months.
The steering, gears and pedal response is horrible, the gas pedal has probably 75% of throttle on the first 10% of the movement, and the second half of it's range does [I]nothing[/I].
The clutch gives horrible feedback (if that makes sense), the resistance of it changes, there's never a smooth motion.
I somehow can never make one smooth turn, the car always needs microadjustments that make driving so fucking tiring.
The ergonomics are so damn weird. If I move the seat so far back I can just barely touch the wheel, my legs are still cramped.
After her dad changed the wheels, you can hear [I]everything[/I] from the suspension.
I got bored today so I put on the plates on my E36 and just went for a ride for a few minutes, and I know I'm probably going to spend the entire day driving it once I get it approved again.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;47951489]Marvel Is only second by a short hair to Sea Foam, and if you want to go full bore on the cleaning you can use both safely, just with the sea foam you'll need to do an oil change sooner then if you only used Marvel.
I had a 79 Catalina that hadn't had an oil change in almost 10 years, it only ever got a new filter and when I put marvel in it, it fucking dominated it life history of sludge build up plus that of the 10 year oil change neglect. Only reason I didn't do it myself was because I never had the money and it was a project car.
Synthetics are not only rated lower then what they're tested at but don't fill the spaces that conventional oil does, synthetics also have a certain amount of detergents in them to keep sludge from building up which is why any old engine that is switched over from convent to synth appears to spring leaks like a submarine peppered with point blank .50 cal fire.
Depending on what the oil weight that's recommended for your engine and how many miles are on it is basically what dertimines the new weight of oil you'll need to use to slow or nearly halt oil consumption.
Like if new it says to to use 5 or 10w-30 and you've got 150k miles on it and narry a service, you'd likely want to run 10w50 or 20w something, maybe (or certainly) less if the weather is really cold as the oil will be hella thick during the cold months. It's kinda of a math thing, miles + car age x how bad it's been beat on √ how often it's been serviced and/or weather it's it's been serviced regularly.
[sp]I'm bad at math[/sp][/QUOTE]
20w50 is crazy, don't put that in anything that calls for 5w-30. Honda motors are designed specificly for a quality conventional 5w-30 and nothing else. What I do is use Castrol GTX High Mileage 5w30 and give it a little squeeze of the overpriced non-additive gear oil Lucas "Oil Stabilizer". It's really not advised to run different weights of oil in a motor unless it was designed, built and spec'd out to run a different weight oil due to tolerances. Unless the motor uncontrollably leaks, burns and smokes to the point that its still mechanically sound but well worn out to the point that your current oil just plain doesn't cut it you may think about stepping it up from say 5w-30 to 10w-40.
Burning oil in a Honda is unfortunately considered completely normal, you would most likely cause far more damage trying to prevent it from consuming a few dollars worth of oil than you would ever save. Run a compression test on it if you feel uncomfortable about it, I know that both my cars burn over 1qt per 1,000 miles and my Civic actually has dead accurate compression all the way across the board. It's mechanically sound as hell somehow now being on it's 3rd headgasket and 173k miles down the road. Loves to consume oil like my Integra but absolutely never smokes.
Now my Integra on the other hand just a few hundred away from 160k has seen it's oil light before and was highly neglected in it's first 100k miles and will smoke now under funny circumstances.
me: "I'll probably buy a dart"
friend: "I know of one for you. Its a 69 Dart"
me: "...a new... dart..."
[QUOTE=Code3Response;47953487]me: "I'll probably buy a dart"
friend: "I know of one for you. Its a 69 Dart"
me: "...a new... dart..."[/QUOTE]
That's a Fiat Vaginao though, not a Dart.
There is no "new" dart. Newest one youll be likely to find is 1976, unless you go to mexico, then you can find 80s darts.
Are any of you following the Le Mans? Really exciting right now, Aston martin was leading in its class, untill it went straight of the track on one corner and wrecked.
We fixed the valve clearances on the dune buggy and it works better than it ever has, but it still tops out around the middle of third gear. Timing issue maybe? Thats what im gonna check next.
[editline]14th June 2015[/editline]
I have a question for you boat people. is a boat throttle cable any different from a normal throttle cable? I need a 13" cable for the dune buggy and all i can find is boat cables.
[editline]14th June 2015[/editline]
Follow up question, i have plenty of cable, just not in a throttle cable like sheath thing. I cant figure out how to route it all the way back around the motor without there being far too much slack to work.
[QUOTE=Propane Addict;47952434]I couldn't stand to be without A/C so I pulled the dash out of my Focus and replaced the condenser last summer. That was a fucking job and a half. Sure you don't wanna go with a Focus RS over a Fiesta ST? Those RS's sure are pretty.[/QUOTE]
I've been running without AC all summer long so far in the Charger, and it doesn't bug me at all. Even with it in my E-150, I hardly ever use it except when I'm sitting still doing paperwork on muggy days.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;47947681]Yeah kinda what mine is doing. I've put some WD-40 on the linkages and it's a lot better, probably just made it easier for the dying motor to work though.
Squeezed a bit more life out of it. Stuff of miracles.[/QUOTE]
Holy shit why is WD-40 made out of magic? They're working like new again.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;47954565]I've been running without AC all summer long so far in the Charger, and it doesn't bug me at all. Even with it in my E-150, I hardly ever use it except when I'm sitting still doing paperwork on muggy days.[/QUOTE]
I've made it nearly three years without AC. The only time it sucks is when you're doing highway driving on a hot day. The wind noise gets too loud to keep the windows down. Just driving around the city is fine once you get a breeze going.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;47954777]Holy shit why is WD-40 made out of magic? They're working like new again.[/QUOTE]
If you can't WD-40 it, you probably can't fix it.
[video=youtube;APl0edZ8gI8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APl0edZ8gI8[/video]
Finally had the time to pick up my car. It was a 2.5 hour drive, but worth it!
Around here in the Netherlands they're pretty rare.
Mechanically speakings it's in a really good condition for a 28 year old car.
Exterior has its spots but only two rust spots that need work.
When I have the time (and when the weather is better) I'll try making a few better pictures.
But for now:
[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/30c3ndh.jpg[/IMG]
AHHHHHHHHH people who start their cars from dead cold and immediately drive away make me want to burn them down. Hate it when people don't wait at least 30 seconds for the oil to warm up so you don't fucking obliterate every damn seal in the motor from their generic 7-11 bought sludge oil they haven't changed in 65,000 mi.
Help, I've found Japanese car auction sites. This shit is a bigger productivity killer than Craigslist.
[t]http://p3.aleado.com/pic/?system=auto&date=2015-06-16&auct=8&bid=50019&number=1[/t]
[t]http://p3.aleado.com/pic/?system=auto&date=2015-06-16&auct=8&bid=60401&number=1[/t]
[QUOTE=Amplar;47955230]AHHHHHHHHH people who start their cars from dead cold and immediately drive away make me want to burn them down. Hate it when people don't wait at least 30 seconds for the oil to warm up so you don't fucking obliterate every damn seal in the motor from their generic 7-11 bought sludge oil they haven't changed in 65,000 mi.[/QUOTE]
If you don't floor it everywhere, it's not really a problem for a daily driven car
Yeah but even on newer vehicles that come with synthetic oil, isn't it still a good idea to at least wait 30 or so seconds before you drive off?
I only wait about 45 seconds before I set off, but I won't rev it over 2,200 RPM until it's nice and warm.
[QUOTE=Amplar;47955230]AHHHHHHHHH people who start their cars from dead cold and immediately drive away make me want to burn them down. Hate it when people don't wait at least 30 seconds for the oil to warm up so you don't fucking obliterate every damn seal in the motor from their generic 7-11 bought sludge oil they haven't changed in 65,000 mi.[/QUOTE]
I make a point of not cracking 1200 rpm until the needle on the temperature gauge is a quarter of the way up. it takes about that long to get out of my neighborhood anyway.
So, I'm a college student, who knows jack shit about cars. I'm entering my third year, and I drive around a Jeep Tracker from 1990, and thanks to some maintenance (mainly thanks to my dad lol), we have managed to keep it in good condition.
However come January I'm planning to get a new car. My budget is around the 10k. My dad was talking about how an Honda Civic is probably my best choice at the moment. I'd like to agree but I don't know jackshit about cars. Any advice?
There's a '57 Ford firetruck down the road for sale for $2500.
It looks like this.
[IMG]http://www.indianafiretrucks.com/pictures/warrick/elberfeld/engine-55.jpg[/IMG]
It's from a place called "Tamarac" but google says that's in Florida, and I'm in West Michigan.
[QUOTE=Propane Addict;47955089]If you can't WD-40 it, you probably can't fix it.
[video=youtube;APl0edZ8gI8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APl0edZ8gI8[/video][/QUOTE]
I feel the same about WD40 as I do about multitools. It'll usually get the job done, but never as well as the right tool. PB Blast is miles better as a penetrating oil, marvel mystery oil is better for unsticking stuck compression rings, literally anything makes a better chain oil, tap magic is a better cutting fluid, and dry graphite powder is better for lubricating locks.
The only thing WD-40 is worth a damn for is cleaning ignition systems.
[editline]14th June 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Trounark;47955686]So, I'm a college student, who knows jack shit about cars. I'm entering my third year, and I drive around a Jeep Tracker from 1990, and thanks to some maintenance (mainly thanks to my dad lol), we have managed to keep it in good condition.
However come January I'm planning to get a new car. My budget is around the 10k. My dad was talking about how an Honda Civic is probably my best choice at the moment. I'd like to agree but I don't know jackshit about cars. Any advice?[/QUOTE]
jeep tracker? you mean a Geo Tracker?
I like Scion in that price bracket, something like a TC. How many doors do you need?
[QUOTE=butre;47955754]I feel the same about WD40 as I do about multitools. It'll usually get the job done, but never as well as the right tool. PB Blast is miles better as a penetrating oil, marvel mystery oil is better for unsticking stuck compression rings, literally anything makes a better chain oil, tap magic is a better cutting fluid, and dry graphite powder is better for lubricating locks.
The only thing WD-40 is worth a damn for is cleaning ignition systems.
[editline]14th June 2015[/editline]
jeep tracker? you mean a Geo Tracker?
I like Scion in that price bracket, something like a TC. How many doors do you need?[/QUOTE]
Sorry! Yeah a 1990 Geo Tracker. Also I'm fine with two doors.
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