• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[IMG]http://distilleryimage11.ak.instagram.com/3afc342a77e511e3b2cd128ee1f40433_8.jpg[/IMG] Disgusting. I got bait-switched. On eBay they Photoshop the shit out of the description picture. The muffler looked completely plated with solid hangers with rounded seams. They blurred out the logo stamp on the tip. Now I'm stuck with a shitty-flanged, "RS TYPE" coffee can of an exhaust. I'm not about to throw a fit and return it because I actually need a muffler. But come on. I suppose for $100 I got what I paid for; sure beats $1000 from Apexi or HKS though. Works for a daily driver, I'm going to paint it flat black right now.
Hopes shouldn't be high when buying a fart can.
I found that most of those cans make your car sound like a kazoo +50hp
BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
[QUOTE=DPKiller;43455870]BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR[/QUOTE] This is my evidence [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhT3C9mHLZ4[/media]
First gen BMW X3 E83 remote start here. Simple stuff compared to the F25 X3. Fun fun [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9YAD5XN_J0[/media]
Just got a remote unlock unit I just bought in the mail, and two actuators, and it also came with two remotes. Pretty sweet deal, and It has most of the start of a harness to go off-of. I'll probably build it into my center console, to eliminate clutter under the dash. I want to assemble a nice 4 lead harness for it, and then order two more actuators. I had to get some hardcore looking ones since my locks are more of a plate system than like a modern rod arrangement. I'm gonna try and find some large quantities of shrink wrap and make 4 leads that go to under the carpet at each door, and then terminate at a 4 pin connector. THe two empty pins will have a set of leads going back to the center console for a centralized window setup which will also have 4 servos -one in each door, That way I can disconnect easily from the doors for any reason. It's gonna be fun, and a little bit more work than the normal installs I'm used to doing because this car has 0 wiring into doors, so I had to drill holes for things like the speakers, and there are no sill plates that facilitate wiring running fore to aft as you'd normally do. I want to jump in, but I know I should probably wait till I get my new carpet and just run everything along the hump, and then straight from the left and right under the rear seat to the doors.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;43448561]Keeping a sticker in the car would be a bright idea... Or what some people do is send their oil for testing at black labs.[/QUOTE] Send it to these guys, you're fucking halarious mate. Aboslutely kacking myself. [img]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9qOJzf5N2U4/UYi85D1FYGI/AAAAAAAAAw8/-pyAHrL17fE/s400/big-black-labs-pictures.jpg[/img]
[url]http://www.blackstone-labs.com/[/url] [editline]7th January 2014[/editline] But you're from straya so I doubt it'd be worth it anyways.
[QUOTE=Del91;43458965][url]http://www.blackstone-labs.com/[/url] [editline]7th January 2014[/editline] But you're from straya so I doubt it'd be worth it anyways.[/QUOTE] Oh, shit. My apologies DPKiller.
I had a nice chuckle at what you thought I meant. I kindaaaa forgot about including "stone" in it lol.
[url]http://instagram.com/p/i9fAKXGGEt/[/url] For how cheap it was it sounds pretty cool. I suppose the "farts" came from people who just weld a coffee can on their 2.5" piping. This sounds pretty quiet even at WOT for how huge it is
Actually seeing it under your bumper, its not even that big of a can.
[IMG]http://distilleryimage8.ak.instagram.com/0ebc5374797811e3bbfe0ace4e1335d0_8.jpg[/IMG]
Started the swap from carb to EFI. Removing the intake was hell.
[QUOTE=KillerTele;43478155]Started the swap from carb to EFI. Removing the intake was hell.[/QUOTE] You'll get happy with the end results, trust me.
I hope so.
not going into details but after lots of struggling due to previous owners stupidity, my s13 now has led plate bulbs, reverse bulbs, and turn signals... [t]http://i.imgur.com/CkM0MXb.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/JCm3YiH.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/8L3yMW6.jpg[/t] i would have taken some before pics but some didnt work at all before
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;43477551][url]http://instagram.com/p/i9fAKXGGEt/[/url] For how cheap it was it sounds pretty cool. I suppose the "farts" came from people who just weld a coffee can on their 2.5" piping. This sounds pretty quiet even at WOT for how huge it is[/QUOTE] Do you still have a cat? The second you remove a cat from a free flowing exhaust it turns into a obnoxious rasp. How's the piping? I've always looked at most ebay exhausts as a cheap mandrel bent kit that you weld a better muffler on.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;43479150]Do you still have a cat? The second you remove a cat from a free flowing exhaust it turns into a obnoxious rasp. How's the piping? I've always looked at most ebay exhausts as a cheap mandrel bent kit that you weld a better muffler on.[/QUOTE] Yeah, has a cat. Piping is pretty solid, hangers could be better. Flanges were pretty thick. Everything seems pretty great so far
So, tomorrow I get to put a 302's outards back together that someone else took off, that'll be fun. It at least its in a 96 and not some overly brained exploder, i fucking [b][i]HATE[/i][/b] exploder 302s... worst Ford idea evar.
I think I've finally figured out where the annoying clunking sound is coming from on my car. It's been bothering me for a whole year and nobody knew what it was, there was no play in the wheel or suspension components. It will be really loud and clunk when it's freezing and go away as the car warms up. After a dickload of research and videos, it's the fucking sway bar bushings. It has to be, the sound in videos is identical and the symptoms people describe are exactly the same. Thankfully it will only cost me £10 for new bushings and some silicone grease, courtesy of ebay.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;43483289]I think I've finally figured out where the annoying clunking sound is coming from on my car. It's been bothering me for a whole year and nobody knew what it was, there was no play in the wheel or suspension components. It will be really loud and clunk when it's freezing and go away as the car warms up. After a dickload of research and videos, it's the fucking sway bar bushings. It has to be, the sound in videos is identical and the symptoms people describe are exactly the same. Thankfully it will only cost me £10 for new bushings and some silicone grease, courtesy of ebay.[/QUOTE] ANY clunk ever in the car is pretty much guaranteed to be a bushing of some sort unless if your car is un-drive-able.
I was constantly being told ball joints and stabilizer links (noise is almost identical, probably because both the bushings and links are directly connected to the front stabilizer bar. Zero play in those though so I narrowed it down. Also today getting out of my car I heard hissing, god damn nail in my back tyre. Put the spare on and going to get it changed first thing tomorrow. There are some small cracks all over the tyre like the rubber is really old, they aren't deep but I have to top up the air in them every month or so as they can drop to 12PSI (should be 26). Similar situation on the other side, worth changing both back tyres for new ones while I'm there?
How old are you tires? What's the manufacturing date? If they are 5-6 years old, change them all. Cracked tires should be changed either ways, imo.
I'm not sure, the 2 front tyres are less than a year old because a bad alignment ruined the others, I'm guessing you can find the date on the sidewall? 2 back tyres are also different brands with different tread patterns. Not sure how much that matters but it's how it was when I bought the car.
It would be good to always have tires at least in a set of two, but as long as you don't have a RWD car, it's ok to have mismatches tires in the back. But you should still change them asap.
Is there any reason to not use NGK
Got all 4 door lock actuators in and a control unit for less than $60, and also scored two transmitters. And the whole thing works flawlessly. I have a clicky thingy for my car now. 4 Door dart from the 60's with some electronic control stuff - next time I have $100, I'm getting electric windows also... [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01978_zpsab84b265.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01978_zpsab84b265.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01977_zps7e01994a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01977_zps7e01994a.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01983_zpsc776d575.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01983_zpsc776d575.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01986_zpsce97ee1b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01986_zpsce97ee1b.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01991_zps52b56259.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01991_zps52b56259.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The only real snags were getting the wires into the back doors, since there's nowhere to drill holes into the C pillar and make a good tether, so I had to drill into the sill, into the bottom of the doors, and then into the lower part of the C-pillar, to feed wires under the carpet, through the pillar, and out the sill. When open about 2" of wire is visible (which is sleeved now, not red/black) and when closed was the only place it would not interfere with the door closing all the way. All other doors had to be drilled as well, so I had a nice grommet and tether collection going to start this mod. It took me about 5 hours front to back with a pause brake inbetween for lunch, so it wasn't so bad at all. I had to remove the seats and carpet as well, which is why it took so long. Definitly worth it. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01993_zps317cd180.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01993_zps317cd180.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[del]So I have an issue, a simple one that ultra obvious solutions won't do. My dome light will not turn off, its in the "ON" position, it's on door. Is this an issue I'm going to have to hack the car apart to make work right or is there a relay or something? Each door has it's own festoon light and only lights when that door is open, but of course the dome lights regardless of the open door. I asked a bud who deals with hondas what to do, his answer was "Pull the bulb". I have a security system, I NEED it to work right.[/del] So it seems my fatass friend who moved my car earlier today somehow managed to kick the door trigger wire and wedge it in such a way it grounded on the steering column, tripping the dome light. It really should not be possible because the wires are tucked pretty high up, the fuck was he doing?
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