[QUOTE=Serj22;43493843]Got all 4 door lock actuators in and a control unit for less than $60, and also scored two transmitters. And the whole thing works flawlessly. I have a clicky thingy for my car now.
4 Door dart from the 60's with some electronic control stuff - next time I have $100, I'm getting electric windows also...
[/QUOTE]
I absolutely love your dart. I always wanted a Dart or a Plymouth valiant.
Also, I hate the fact that with power windows, you can't use them unless the key is in the ON position.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;43494809]I absolutely love your dart. I always wanted a Dart or a Plymouth valiant.
Also, I hate the fact that with power windows, you can't use them unless the key is in the ON position.[/QUOTE]
Thanks. I have the ability to wire up the windows to constant power, so you could use them whenever, but I think the ideal thing is to use as an acc. position device since each motor does consume a bit of power. Also it limits the potential of getting all the windows down without the key, which may be used for some type of theft (or not) but still. I'm gradually modernizing this beast since she is my daily driver. I want all the creature comforts of a modern car (kinda) without losing the classic vibe to it all.
I've been in a few cars where the windows worked with the key on off.
And speaking of awesome 60's chryslers...
We had a 66 Valiant Regal in our workshop yesterday for a service. Everything original and in pretty damn good condition. It still had the MOPAR stickers (although a bit cracked) inside the engine bay and jeeze wow the car was super silent.
I love it when we get old cars in awesome condition coming in for work. The best other car I can remember was a grandpa-spec VK Commodore. The only damage was a dent in one of the rear doors.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;43494925]I've been in a few cars where the windows worked with the key on off.
And speaking of awesome 60's chryslers...
We had a 66 Valiant Regal in our workshop yesterday for a service. Everything original and in pretty damn good condition. It still had the MOPAR stickers (although a bit cracked) inside the engine bay and jeeze wow the car was super silent.
I love it when we get old cars in awesome condition coming in for work. The best other car I can remember was a grandpa-spec VK Commodore. The only damage was a dent in one of the rear doors.[/QUOTE]
My car was dead silent when I bought it. I'd be cruising around and just felt unnatural. I took it to a muffler shop and said "this feels wrong." The guy drove it and said he had a glasspack I could have and he'd put it in all for $80. I said "done" What a world of difference. It's still not loud, but it has a sound to it now other than "is it even on?"
Grandma spec cars tend to have a lot more dents than that in them, so that's a rare find. NExt month I may buy a second car, just to have and was leaning towards a 66 Dart or Valiant wagon for tools and shiddddd. We'll see.
Fixed my window regulator.
Cable was snapped from the rust.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/UWzqviJ.jpg?3[/IMG]
Oh yeah and thx Audi engineers,this was great to work on
[IMG]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i36/YHWH333/DIY/IMG_0099Medium.jpg[/IMG]
Pulling my hair out with my rebuilt engine.
There seems to be a ghost coolant leak somewhere. It might be coming from the millions of hoses tucked under the manifolds. Maybe it could be the timing cover water jacket leaking water into the oil pan; leaking water out of the rtv seal. It could be the water pump seeping from the weep hole, getting blown by the fan back.
Seems to be some sort of ticking sound coming from the lower end of the motor somewhere or there's some sort of exhaust leak. Exhaust smells like burnt sugar and there seems to be a bit of white smoke billowing near my transmission somewhere. I changed the oil just now and the ticking didn't go away; no water seems to be in the oil, its just really dark.
At this point I want to just trade this car for a Datsun 280ZX or something because I believe I did everything to the letter and it still throws everything back at my face. About 1,600mi now
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;43500532]Pulling my hair out with my rebuilt engine.
There seems to be a ghost coolant leak somewhere. It might be coming from the millions of hoses tucked under the manifolds. Maybe it could be the timing cover water jacket leaking water into the oil pan; leaking water out of the rtv seal. It could be the water pump seeping from the weep hole, getting blown by the fan back.
Seems to be some sort of ticking sound coming from the lower end of the motor somewhere or there's some sort of exhaust leak. Exhaust smells like burnt sugar and there seems to be a bit of white smoke billowing near my transmission somewhere. I changed the oil just now and the ticking didn't go away; no water seems to be in the oil, its just really dark.
At this point I want to just trade this car for a Datsun 280ZX or something because I believe I did everything to the letter and it still throws everything back at my face. About 1,600mi now[/QUOTE]
Just because the motor is rebuilt doesn't mean the head gasket is torqued down correctly. Sometimes people skid them and put scratches in them that leak coolant gradually. Then do the obvious things, like pop the water pump off and make sure a gasket was used, etc... but if the coolant is leaking, and you don't see it , it's likely getting burned in the cylinders. Also if there's a bit of smoke near your transmission, a loose coolant line of some sort will puff steam like that. Pull your oil cap and hold your hand over it to see if you're getting some kind of exhaust blowback.
[QUOTE=dafour;43496640]Fixed my window regulator.
Cable was snapped from the rust.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/UWzqviJ.jpg?3[/IMG]
Oh yeah and thx Audi engineers,this was great to work on
[IMG]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i36/YHWH333/DIY/IMG_0099Medium.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
O god.... I fell for you.
[QUOTE=Serj22;43500990]Just because the motor is rebuilt doesn't mean the head gasket is torqued down correctly. Sometimes people skid them and put scratches in them that leak coolant gradually. Then do the obvious things, like pop the water pump off and make sure a gasket was used, etc... but if the coolant is leaking, and you don't see it , it's likely getting burned in the cylinders. Also if there's a bit of smoke near your transmission, a loose coolant line of some sort will puff steam like that. Pull your oil cap and hold your hand over it to see if you're getting some kind of exhaust blowback.[/QUOTE]
I re-torqued the ARP studs on the head twice and it all read proper. Good compression. Water pump was brand new with fresh RTV.
It just sucks. I put so much money into this only for me to maybe break it apart again later. I'm already unemployed so it leaves me hopeless. Gotta work harder. It might be time to sell the motorset and get an RB20DET swap. Inline-6 goodness!
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;43501087]I re-torqued the ARP studs on the head twice and it all read proper. Good compression. Water pump was brand new with fresh RTV.
It just sucks. I put so much money into this only for me to maybe break it apart again later. I'm already unemployed so it leaves me hopeless. Gotta work harder. It might be time to sell the motorset and get an RB20DET swap. Inline-6 goodness![/QUOTE]
Even with the proper torque, the head gasket can still be damaged depending on how you mount the head. It's all hard to say really. You can sometimes get ghost leaks right under the cap. If you want to dig into it, pull the thermostat, drain all the coolant, and pressurize it through the radiator and just watch the whole motor and you may find your leak.
Headgaskets can be pretty hit or miss, some people swear by using copper spray on them and some swear nothing but good clean prep. It'd be a lot easier of a job at this point to go at it and just do the headgasket again this time. I've heard that acetone is really good at preparing the mating surfaces, I'd possibly use some copper spray this time around or possibly not if you had.
I'd start with a leakdown test and go on to pressure test the coolant system for leaks on a cold motor so it doesn't burn up before it can leak down.
You could always just sell the whole thing as recently rebuilt and go with a swap. Just say head bolts were stretched, the headgasket blew again and put the stock bolts back in then give them the used arp ones in a bag or something because you thought about just doing a headgasket.
Older injectors tend to tick as well, I have perfect valve lash and everything but my injectors are almost as obnoxious as a motor that had literally all but two of the 16 tappet nuts back off and go through the motor.
I do my race quad 4s with a fel pro head gasket, some brake clean on the block, ARP studs, then just torque em center out like you're supposed to.
Switch to EFI from carb has been made. Thank fuck dad was here to help, I wouldn't been able to get the electricity to work without him. Damn guru that man.
Anyway, started the car and it ran fine for a few seconds, then shut off. Restarted it and it just did the same. After a few times it wouldn't even start.
After trying a heap of stuff I tried the pump to see if it ran. Nope. Switched the poles (to make it run backwards), it spit some dirt back into the tank. Switched the poles back and ran it again. Worked great for a about 15 seconds, then it shut off again with the same problem. Took the pump off the get the dirt out and now the pump is just totally seized. Ah well, I'll fix it tomorrow. I'm just very happy the car runs (well, ran) at all, haha.
How typical. Couldn't get the dirt out of the pump, had to drive quite a bit to buy a pump that was broken. Now asking around to see if any of my friends has one for a volvo 740 or something. I sure hope so.
Painted my popup bezels today cause they were faded/ had overspray on them
[t]http://i.imgur.com/KM1Eb3a.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/LzXWWgQ.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/9jjYyGJ.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Stiveno;43513169]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/9jjYyGJ.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
This photo is sponsored by
[t]http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/ryobi-tools.jpg[/t]
Ryobi. Pro Features. Affordable Prices.
I uhh... Added a black toolbox and painted the nose of my trailer.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Trailer/IMAG0403.jpg[/t]
Yep.......Now to just test to see if that box is waterproof or not.
and if you look closely you can see 2 air cooled forms of transportation that are broken.
went under the car to finally put on the drive shaft so I begin to take the exhaust off.
or not, thanks rust. (FUSION HA!)
[t]http://www.meterscubed.com/images/ExhaustRust.jpg[/t]
Rusted together, the bolts are finished and the weld to fix where the exhaust rusted off before is utter shit and doesn't look like it'll last too long. I want/need a new exhaust.
[QUOTE=KeitaroCoS;43514948]went under the car to finally put on the drive shaft so I begin to take the exhaust off.
or not, thanks rust. (FUSION HA!)
[t]http://www.meterscubed.com/images/ExhaustRust.jpg[/t]
Rusted together, the bolts are finished and the weld to fix where the exhaust rusted off before is utter shit and doesn't look like it'll last too long. I want/need a new exhaust.[/QUOTE]
The only thing youll prolly be able to do is take a grinder to the bolts and drill out the studs that remain. Then get some bolts and washers to go in instead, stainless is best.
Fucking gas line burst while driving, went home and proceeded to spill gas EVERYWHERE in the garage, fixed the leak and now the car won't fucking start. It gets fuel, but it won't fire up.
After sitting for a few minutes it'll make a cough when trying to start it and after that cough nothing happens.
[editline]13th January 2014[/editline]
That combined with some other bullshit today makes this day the worst day I've had in a seriously long time.
[QUOTE=KillerTele;43516429]Fucking gas line burst while driving, went home and proceeded to spill gas EVERYWHERE in the garage, fixed the leak and now the car won't fucking start. It gets fuel, but it won't fire up.
After sitting for a few minutes it'll make a cough when trying to start it and after that cough nothing happens.
[editline]13th January 2014[/editline]
That combined with some other bullshit today makes this day the worst day I've had in a seriously long time.[/QUOTE]
Wow, thats one smooth FI conversion....
no
So here's some body work from the past couple of days.
I wish I took pictures of the original damage and after I chiseled off literally a half inch thick layer of old cracked bondo from the previous owner.
Redid it right with the fiberglass stuff, shits awesome yo.
BTW this was my first time doing any sort of bodywork on a car so I'm pleased at the results so far.
[B]Original Damage[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/JtHWMy4.jpg?1[/t]
[B]Several layers of bondo-glass[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Ujs6BFX.jpg[/t]
[B]First of many coats of fine talc puddy[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/vFqQizE.jpg[/t]
[B]After sanding down the first layer, a final coat of talc puddy[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Cze8FXE.jpg[/t]
Need to sand down the final layer and yeah...
In person you can really see the difference, and I'll post more after I get her primered
Installed a new torque mount on the GTI to fix the motor shake I was getting during low gear acceleration and its sooo much nicer when the engine isn't shaking all over the place. Bought a higher density rubber than stock but it hasn't affected cabin noise/vibration much which is a nice bonus.
As for BANNED USER's 2, its staring to get a chassis/suspension treatment. Its missing a few stock upper engine bay stiffening brackets and is running the stock NA sway bars which are only 17mm, so that is what we are starting with. Purchased a set of 22/23mm sways and chassis strengthening will be up next.
Edit:
Almost forgot! It finally happened: 30,000 miles in 4 years and only maintenance its needed have been a few coil packs, water pump, and alternator.
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e7/Tiersin/GTI/84ee2887-cf8f-4c45-9979-2c37ddc38f88_zps1f49cb86.jpg[/IMG]
Replaced my pads and rotors today. Sam's crossthreaded one of my lugnuts and it sheared the lugstud, so the replacement lugstud and nut I bought for the rear had to do the job. It was such a pain the ass replacing the lugstud, thank thy neighbor for tinsnips. Everytime I let a shop do anything wheel-wise they crossthread atleast one lugnut, and its starting to piss me off.
Can't wait to go to pickapart.
:dance: installed the new front speakers on the jeep, by golly gosh they sound great.
unfortunately was called into work so i didn't get to do the rears yet.
What'd ya get? :D
sps-510s for the front and dxi-460s for the back.
I don't think the fronts worked at all before, but the rears are gonna suck since the drivers seat is welded in lol.
Alright got the car running well. Turned out a a soldered ground wire in the harness going to the FI computer was loose, which was causing the car not to run. Re soldered in and it now runs great.
However, after driving the car for a longer time at higher revs than usual the injection started screeching over 1500RPM. Weird.
Was gone after letting the car get cold. Drove more normal on the way home and didn't hear a sound from it.
[QUOTE=Tibbles!;43518078]So here's some body work from the past couple of days.
I wish I took pictures of the original damage and after I chiseled off literally a half inch thick layer of old cracked bondo from the previous owner.
Redid it right with the fiberglass stuff, shits awesome yo.
BTW this was my first time doing any sort of bodywork on a car so I'm pleased at the results so far.
[B]Original Damage[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/JtHWMy4.jpg?1[/t]
[B]Several layers of bondo-glass[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Ujs6BFX.jpg[/t]
[B]First of many coats of fine talc puddy[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/vFqQizE.jpg[/t]
[B]After sanding down the first layer, a final coat of talc puddy[/B]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Cze8FXE.jpg[/t]
[/QUOTE]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/RU849Ya.jpg[/t]
Done!
Did some work on the Volvo 360. Welded the adjustable gliders on the sport chairs and mounted the huge ass wing i ordered a while back. Going to weld the exhaust and 4-point harness sometime this week then I'll get the car out of the garage and snap some photos. It's completely stripped from excess weight now too.
I really want to do an engine swap on this car but it's hard to find a decent engine in the right condition with data boxes and cables etc.
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