• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
umm where's the sr20? why haven't you removed A/C yet?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/SmQSxHa.jpg[/IMG] In-bay repairs. This should be interesting. Hopefully I can re-seal it within a short amount of time
Decals! [t]http://i.imgur.com/vDHNfsO.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/yNJVJyb.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/HteJOpV.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;43887704]umm where's the sr20? why haven't you removed A/C yet?[/QUOTE] I think what you said was a joke but if it wasnt the sr20 is everywhere else but america... and id much rather have a/c but mine doesnt have a belt and idk if it works haha Id only do a swap if I got a ridiculous local deal or if this blows up again.
My sled's chain case pissed 2/3 its gear oil all the battery muffler and brake disk. Disassembled half my snowmobile engine-bay to get at the seal. [IMG]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee46/MaImpala/20140211_201938_zpsf6yb1og3.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;43886266]Just get a nice bulb like an Osram bulb for your low beams, while everyone might jump straight to HID's there's still plenty of good quality Halogen bulbs which do well. You can get them in 5000k which should look pretty good. [url]http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/halogen-replacement-bulbs/osram-halogen-9006-replacement-bulb.html#.UvvVvNRdWhM[/url][/QUOTE] Thanks for the good lights. What would be good lights for the high beams?
Carbeuretor figured out, rods attached, and it's dry fitted to the intake. Fits like a glove. Now kickdown needs to come in the mail. Damn. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140212_175609_zpsg4mtgsce.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140212_175609_zpsg4mtgsce.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
your intake looks so festive
hnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng webbers I want [url]http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk317.htm[/url] for my beetle so bad... All it would do tho is drown my engine. Also. [b]Velocity Stacks[/b]
I got this the other day but i've been working too much to mess with it, and i rounded a nut off on the exhaust manifold so that was a pain in the ass to remove. [t]http://oi60.tinypic.com/w7lhr8.jpg[/t] JDM D17A yo, [B]edit[/B] with a cracked block it turns out. What a waste of money. I really just wanted the head right now, but i bought the whole engine so i could build the bottom end mother FUCKERS. [t]http://i61.tinypic.com/t8m9gm.jpg[/t] [B]edit 2 [/B]Bradley says it's fine and only on the bell housing so idk wtf 2 think
[QUOTE=DPKiller;43881359]I once welded somthing as thin as that with a millmatic 212 and a spool gun. Had very inconsistent results because the spool gun would not feed at a contant rate and jammed every foot or so. Once I get a new spool gun I'll retry.[/QUOTE] No weld aluminum radiator with MIG, use TIG. Preferably a pulse TIG with foot control. Most things like this are either robot welded or TIG welded to produce a fine finish bead and so you have more control on heat input and puddle shape, if you know what you're doing. But in the end, as long as you have good fusion and good penetration, then it doesn't matter as much what the bead looks like. Fun fact: I've been stick welding since I was 12, TIG welding since I was 14, competed in stick welding competitions in high school, and never went into welding. My dad used to be a welder, and is now a welding inspector, so I picked it up as a hobby when I was young. But even with all that time fusing metal, I can stick and TIG weld way better than I can weld with a wire feeder. I'm backwards from everybody. Give me some thin material and a TIG machine and I can weld whatever you want. Put a wire feeder in my hands and it will look like complete doo-doo.
MIG is the only thing I have. :( I wanted to get a Fabricator 211i instead of my Millmatic 212, but once I herd it does not do AC TIG and cant weld aluminum I lost interest. Trust me I wanted a TIG, but I don't wanna buy another machine to do stick / tig when I already have a cracker jack box. Welding is fun I enjoy it alot... Major downfall to it IMO is I cant stand still wile welding, I gotta move my legs and kinda do the pee pee dance. Being a really active person and being forced to stand in one stop is annoying.
[QUOTE=Serj22;43887457]One more toy came today... this carb is a lot bigger than I had imagined... and it's beautiful. It has everything needed to a adapt to a Jeep CJ also (those equipped with bbd carters) and will mate up to my homemade intake perfectly. $320 well spent. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140212_114703_zpsjqswdoul.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140212_114703_zpsjqswdoul.jpg[/IMG][/URL] It's also already jetted correctly for my motor. I need literally just install it... still waiting on the kickdown cable in the mail though... ugh...[/QUOTE] Yum DGAV Weber, what size?
I've been shopping: [t]http://puu.sh/6UrkN.jpg[/t] Here lies a lot of work, but a pretty different front end for the Beetle :v:
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;43893114]Yum DGAV Weber, what size?[/QUOTE] 38/38. It was a choice between that and the 32/36... but I want to upgrade more in the future, so 38/38 was the logical decision. It's already jetted to run on a 258ci jeep motor. I may have to make them smaller, but my motor is a 225. Should be close enough.
Hey Serj22 what do you think about using regular Rustoleum for engine paint? I've read around that it should be ok as long as you don't get any gas on it. GF wants hot pink block and valve cover but it's hard to locate high-temp with that color
[url]http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/[/url] available in hot pink. You're welcome :v:
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;43896824]Hey Serj22 what do you think about using regular Rustoleum for engine paint? I've read around that it should be ok as long as you don't get any gas on it. GF wants hot pink block and valve cover but it's hard to locate high-temp with that color[/QUOTE] My engine is painted with 1Shot, which is just oil based sign painting paint. It has not been an issue yet. Rustoleum will be fine. The engine itself will be somewhere like 240 degrees max, it's the headers and intake that will be a problem, those heat up.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43896960][url]http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/[/url] available in hot pink. You're welcome :v:[/QUOTE] Spoiler alert. Good luck finding it. EBAY does not even have it. :'( I kinda wanted to paint my break calipers pink....
[url]http://www.vhtpaint.com/wheretobuynew.jsp[/url] [editline]13th February 2014[/editline] Okay apparently all of those sites carry every color EXCEPT PINK. How annoying :v: [editline]13th February 2014[/editline] [url]http://www.shopeddies.com/vht-sp756-vht-engine-enamel-hot-pink-11-oz-aerosol.html[/url] THERE
[QUOTE=DPKiller;43892931]MIG is the only thing I have. :( I wanted to get a Fabricator 211i instead of my Millmatic 212, but once I herd it does not do AC TIG and cant weld aluminum I lost interest. Trust me I wanted a TIG, but I don't wanna buy another machine to do stick / tig when I already have a cracker jack box. Welding is fun I enjoy it alot... Major downfall to it IMO is I cant stand still wile welding, I gotta move my legs and kinda do the pee pee dance. Being a really active person and being forced to stand in one stop is annoying.[/QUOTE] [url]http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00389[/url] THAT is what I want when I finally build a shop. AC/DC pulse TIG machine means you never need another welding machine. Weld as thin as 0.012" aluminum, or as thick as you want.
My neighbor has almost that exact welder except its a lincoln :v:
What did you work on today v. leaky ka24s
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;43900173][url]http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00389[/url] THAT is what I want when I finally build a shop. AC/DC pulse TIG machine means you never need another welding machine. Weld as thin as 0.012" aluminum, or as thick as you want.[/QUOTE] Holy shit that price. I almost had to take out a loan for my millmatic 212
So my lights were supposed to be here today. I get home from work look, around, "hmm, nothing. ok" So I go in the house hoping that someone brought it in, not in the kitchin, not in my room. Whadafukweremuhloghts??? Use my tracking number and it says "Adverse Weather Conditions" Rain is adverse? Pussys, USPS woulda done it... In any case it's delayed till tomorrow.
Not the best picture because it's dark now, but you guys get the idea: [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140213_190044_zpsud7el5iv.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140213_190044_zpsud7el5iv.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I am pissed off though. I was trying to reuse the old exhaust manifold to save some time. Lucky me - it developed a leak in the process. I get to fix that tomorrow, by putting in the new manifold. Till then - I'll just tell everyone it has a really intense cam. Brumbrumbrumbrum...
[QUOTE=DPKiller;43902223]Holy shit that price. I almost had to take out a loan for my millmatic 212[/QUOTE] I have a $90 stick welder and it puts down strong but ugly welds. I don't understand why anyone who isn't a professional welder would spend more than a few hundred bucks on one
[QUOTE=turd dad;43904893]I have a $90 stick welder and it puts down strong but ugly welds. I don't understand why anyone who isn't a professional welder would spend more than a few hundred bucks on one[/QUOTE] Main determining factor is material. If you want to weld aluminum, you can forget about any stick welder, the cheap TIG welders, and some of the cheap MIG welders. Second factor is thickness of material you will be welding. If it's going to be thin, forget stick and go MIG or TIG. Thin aluminum almost requires TIG for a good finish product. But it's not just with thin material. For example, I was welding some mild steel for a friend. I was welding pieces of angle-iron onto some pipe. Since the pipe was thick, I had to bevel the end so I could get full penetration. Now, with our Miller Bobcat at home, I could have fine tuned my amperage and made everything easier. But on his lincoln crackerbox, there was only a coarse adjustment of amperage. So the whole time, I was running a little hot so I could get full penetration, but I had to move fast so I didn't burn a giant hole in the pipe. This caused an inconsistent bead in my root pass, which required me to spend at least 20 minutes per pipe grinding and grinding on that root pass trying to get it uniform so I could put my cap passes on top of it. If I were on a better machine, I could have dialed in my amperage on my root, it would have come out consistent, and all I would have had to do is take a wire wheel to it to remove the slag before I ran my cap passes. I guess the bottom line is that if you're just doing a little welding here and there, then a cracker box looks like it's good enough. But when you actually start to do any kind of real welding that's going to be of any kind of structural importance, they just aren't good enough to produce an x-ray quality result.
New amp got here today, my old eclipse was crackling and cutting out and stuff... but now they match! :v: [t]http://i.imgur.com/Ysz0lfR.jpg[/t]
Put a new chain on my bike. Using my roommate's car jack to lift the wheel off the ground got pretty sketchy. Have to wait for some exhaust studs before I can try it out, found one of them was stripped while taking the exhaust off to find a good jack point.
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