[QUOTE=Gulen;44005357]Looks good as long as you only get one. There's a 520 with M-front and rear, and 4 tips at my school, looks really silly when it's only a 520.[/QUOTE]
Thanks! And yes, its only one
Alright, kidneys are black, xenon's installed and LED fogs are disappointing.
Now we start the hunt for M3 sunblockers and I can reupholster my headliner and A+C pillars.
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;44011236]Alright, kidneys are black, [/QUOTE]
Considered going to the doctor for this??
Far too busy lately.. here's some stuff
Install of the day
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Alpines component speaks all around and a DDIN Pionee cut to fit on the quickness
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Doge
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The "aye man i'm on a budget and picked dis up at da pawn shop can you do dis on the cheapness??" DDIN install special. In a Grand Cherokee. Ugh
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Factory sub from a 2013 Titan.. nothin special
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Volvo XC90 in for a deck. Factory radio's CD changer died. To do this required bypassing the factory amplifier, relocating a tiny screen from the factory radio to retain keyless (keeps data hooked up), and interfacing with a giant antenna surfboard in the rear of the truck
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Oldschool amp in a Maxima.. hid dem wires all nice like.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0521_zpsde604594.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0521_zpsde604594.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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Grrr
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Big truck gets big screen
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Old 1.5DIN Pontiac radio with a dead display?? Pull it apart and replace this bulb (brown part)
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0520_zps1e60df72.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0520_zps1e60df72.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Actually.. just put in a new fkin radio instead of paying me $40 to replace a bulb on a piece of junk, lol
Subaruuuu gets lights. Hate on them.. but I think they're badass.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0515_zps00447802.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0515_zps00447802.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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controls for them
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Switches just barely fit behind the metal thing for the top's hinge. Drilled holes to make the middle terminal exit properly.
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[video=youtube;jWLGxfTtEhE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWLGxfTtEhE[/video]
Old Audi for some Kicker love
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Subs in a Kia SUV
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This is what happens when a dead battery sits outside.. the electrolyte turns into water basically and freezes..
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A remote start for an 08 Charger. This is it! To start you use the factory keyfob and press lock 3 times!
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[video=youtube;zUfNV--3Mn0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUfNV--3Mn0[/video]
Bench'd remote start ready to roll
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Another remote start to go ham
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Some neat portions of an alarm install... flush mount LED and hidden siren behind headlight
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0485_zps56e1ff8f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0485_zps56e1ff8f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0483_zps1cae5881.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0483_zps1cae5881.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0484_zps3f81ee29.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0484_zps3f81ee29.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Amp n sub in a Grand Cherokee.... tomorrow it gets speakers and a 4ch amp hookup!!
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[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0481_zpsdbae7ad4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0481_zpsdbae7ad4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Another DDIN cut in a Doge. This one's a Stratus
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0473_zps4c7c646d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0473_zps4c7c646d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Toyota remote start doin it's thing
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0472_zps3b2ed1fc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0472_zps3b2ed1fc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Sweet Alpine amp with a temp gauge
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0467_zps83ee60ba.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0467_zps83ee60ba.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I don't even remember what this is in.. not enough wire showing to be able to tell, lol. Gr, Matrix I think.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0464_zpscf21b6a9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0464_zpscf21b6a9.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Splicing into the immobilizer wires on a Jetta
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0470_zps463397b8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0470_zps463397b8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
WTF is this junk
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Bent wheel
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0460_zps45dba971.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0460_zps45dba971.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
TownCar sat radio
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0455_zpsf0328659.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0455_zpsf0328659.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0457_zpsc8887ac6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0457_zpsc8887ac6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
DDIN cut on a 2000 Suburban
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0452_zpsd6e10542.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0452_zpsd6e10542.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Nissan Armada remote start
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0451_zpsbf2880a1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0451_zpsbf2880a1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Sweet color on a Monte
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Backup cam on a Jeep
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[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0443_zps6480db52.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0443_zps6480db52.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
You'd think they would be nice enough to wash the back before having you install a backup camera.
I had the replace the light bulb on the Firebird's radio display too, except now if there's a bulb in there it tries to fry itself. Oops.
I want to get a factory monsoon unit with a cassette deck anyway.
[QUOTE=Del91;44015018]You'd think they would be nice enough to wash the back before having you install a backup camera.[/QUOTE]
You really haven't a clue about how stupid/nasty some customers can be...
I had to install a bluetooth carkit in some weirdo's Ford Focus once.
I pull out the glove compartment and a bottle of lotion, 12 strip of viagra and some handy wipes come tumbling out.
To keep with clutch2's program, THIS came rolling in a while ago to have a lawfully enforced breathalyzer immobilizer installed.
WARNNG LARGE IMAGE.
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/pBNgQjx.jpg[/thumb]
This guy is a lawyer for cryin' out loud.
Working on my snowmobile today (what a surprise). Got the engine out so I can work on the steering shit which has broken. Removing the steering arms is proving to a bitch. Bolts stuck like nothing else, I got one arm loose and the I've nearly rounded a bolt on the other.
Coffee break and then I'll continue. I will not be defeated by a piece of american crap.
Removed my old exhaust and installed a new stainless steel system from front to back.
[img]https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1932197_723351971033045_457564918_n.jpg[/img]
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1911922_722495901118652_1536550023_n.jpg[/img]
Sorry, no pics on the car but I just got in and cleaned up from crawling around on the concrete installing it.
My old setup was just TOO loud without a turbocharger to muffle it down. The new system isn't too bad, it has a silencer in the tip that works pretty well, but it's still a bit raspy. I'm going to replace the hollow resonator it came with, likely going to use a Cherry Bomb-brand (or similar) glasspack. Its location in the system should take out a lot of the high-end noise and allow for a mild tone that will be bearable on the highway. That's my goal, anyways.
I'm overall pleased with the kit though, the header needs some flow work (I'm not terribly worried due to it being installed on a completely stock D15) but it all bolted right in with no problems (aside from my exhaust guy fucking up my stock hanger locations in the back end of the car).
Literally cannot beat it for a hair under $200. For another $100 in resonator and exhaust shop work I will definitely have a system well worth the money.
The only thing I'm not especially pleased with is the size of the tip, it's fucking ridiculously massive. I may replace it with a 2.25" turn-down, or something similar or OEM-looking.
So the other day I thought my clutch cable snapped, pedal just went to the floor and didn't come back up, had to drive home with no clutch... but the cable was fine when I pulled it and I can move the lever by hand, so I think the actuator fork or something broke. So I've been working on trying to drop the transmission to see what happened. Got the axles and starter and everything disconnected so pretty much all I have left to do is unbolt it from the engine and yank it out of there. Just waiting to borrow a bigger jack to support it because mine won't reach...
How many autozone employees does it take to change bmw wipers?
More than 2 and more than an hour.
So I was like hey, we need new wipers for the 545i. Bought bosch evolutions and sent the rookie out to go do it.
Now these were not the regular type of wiper blades and attachments. It turns out you have to start to clip in the back, while simultaneously seating the front and then sliding it back. Both the manager and the guy working there didn't know how to do it and I didn't know how to do it. For some reason there was one clip that fit but it only came with one wiper, so all of us were confused and from there I found another clip but broke it trying to install and that's where I got pissed. About an hour it I was so frustrated and I tried to get a refund, except they lost my receipt because one of the other people there threw it away so that took another 10 mins. I got my refund and got out of there. I wasted all my time there and couldn't run the other errand because there was a huge storm front coming through that I was lucky enough I had to drive through with old wiper blades.
Went to the advance near me a couple hours later and got a guy to install a similar set of blades. He showed me how he did it and it took all of 10 minutes to do.
tldr I now know why BMW dealers charge so much for wiper blades.
superior wiper engineering
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;44024335]superior wiper engineering[/QUOTE]
Indeed, I've never seen a system like this and neither has the people that worked at autozone apparently.
When you need an instruction video to install wiper blades, you know there is something wrong.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WU-qVJVexjE[/media]
[QUOTE=bradley;44020589]Removed my old exhaust and installed a new stainless steel system from front to back.
Sorry, no pics on the car but I just got in and cleaned up from crawling around on the concrete installing it.
My old setup was just TOO loud without a turbocharger to muffle it down. The new system isn't too bad, it has a silencer in the tip that works pretty well, but it's still a bit raspy. I'm going to replace the hollow resonator it came with, likely going to use a Cherry Bomb-brand (or similar) glasspack. Its location in the system should take out a lot of the high-end noise and allow for a mild tone that will be bearable on the highway. That's my goal, anyways.
I'm overall pleased with the kit though, the header needs some flow work (I'm not terribly worried due to it being installed on a completely stock D15) but it all bolted right in with no problems (aside from my exhaust guy fucking up my stock hanger locations in the back end of the car).
Literally cannot beat it for a hair under $200. For another $100 in resonator and exhaust shop work I will definitely have a system well worth the money.
The only thing I'm not especially pleased with is the size of the tip, it's fucking ridiculously massive. I may replace it with a 2.25" turn-down, or something similar or OEM-looking.[/QUOTE]
My mom had a nicer tip welded on the stock muffler on her 8th gen Civic, honestly it looks really good. I'd just get a kinda sportier generic tip for it.
[QUOTE=Siminov;44024149]How many autozone employees does it take to change bmw wipers?
More than 2 and more than an hour.
So I was like hey, we need new wipers for the 545i. Bought bosch evolutions and sent the rookie out to go do it.
Now these were not the regular type of wiper blades and attachments. It turns out you have to start to clip in the back, while simultaneously seating the front and then sliding it back. Both the manager and the guy working there didn't know how to do it and I didn't know how to do it. For some reason there was one clip that fit but it only came with one wiper, so all of us were confused and from there I found another clip but broke it trying to install and that's where I got pissed. About an hour it I was so frustrated and I tried to get a refund, except they lost my receipt because one of the other people there threw it away so that took another 10 mins. I got my refund and got out of there. I wasted all my time there and couldn't run the other errand because there was a huge storm front coming through that I was lucky enough I had to drive through with old wiper blades.
Went to the advance near me a couple hours later and got a guy to install a similar set of blades. He showed me how he did it and it took all of 10 minutes to do.
tldr I now know why BMW dealers charge so much for wiper blades.[/QUOTE]
Honda does wiper blades on a 06-11 Civic for $12 including new wipers and labor. I've had Goodyear blades before that literally took me 25 minutes to remove them since the mechanism didn't work correctly with my car and clicked together so tight that removing them would break them to the point where it was significantly harder to remove them..
Welp, found the culprit...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/EzAS5Xa.jpg[/t]
At least it's only a $30 part I guess. Now to wait like a year for it to get here :(
Looks like you are using a bit of oil.
Yeahhhh my distributor was leaking oil all over it... I fixed that a while ago I just never cleaned it off lol
Pulled a 2,5 mm² cable through my firewall, regret not just using 6 mm². But now I can't be arsed to redo it. Maybe I'll upgrade it later. Probably going to wire up the fuses tomorrow. Then do remove the whole right inside covers to wire everything up back there. And since I'm removing the panel I'll have to install the antenna as well because doing it twice isn't worth it ;-;.
[QUOTE=clutch2;44014715]Far too busy lately.. here's some stuff
-lots of awesome electrical stuff-[/QUOTE]
Ah, just the guy I wanted. I've got an '96 VW Transporter, hasn't got an alarm, does have an immobilizer. but it does have central locking, but I want to install a remote unlock system in it. But, I don't really want to have another thing on my keychain, so I'd like to use an OEM key from VW (newer version, which does have remote unlocking), do you think this is possible?
I'm no genius when it comes to the alarm industry but I'm pretty sure their is NO aftermarket alarm made to work with OEM keyfobs, only the OEM CCM can do that and that would be a task of transplanting a newer CCM into your transporter.
If you fell electonicly inclined you could probably do [url=http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2339483]this[/url].
Yeah, I'm electronically inclined (I study Industrial Automation, which involves electronic circuits), but what he's doing there seems really overcomplicated, though. Especially since the FOB already has two buttons and a power source (battery)
Trying to figure out how to supply power to my side marker bulbs which are 192 single filament. I need a way to switch between two sources: one which is a constant 12V that powers the running lights and the other which is an alternating 12V source that powers the turn signal filaments. I want my side markers to stay on when the running lights are on, but blink when the turn signals blink.
Bradley mentioned something about running some relays but need more info.
here u go.
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/qnwqXbC.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;44056476]Trying to figure out how to supply power to my side marker bulbs which are 192 single filament. I need a way to switch between two sources: one which is a constant 12V that powers the running lights and the other which is an alternating 12V source that powers the turn signal filaments. I want my side markers to stay on when the running lights are on, but blink when the turn signals blink.
Bradley mentioned something about running some relays but need more info.[/QUOTE]
Do you know how to read schematics? I'll try and put something together quickly.
[editline]26th February 2014[/editline]
Assuming your running lights will always be on (as long as the ignition is on), you could do [URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7644905/Project.pdf"]this (PDF)[/URL]
[QUOTE=DPKiller;44046902]I'm no genius when it comes to the alarm industry but I'm pretty sure their is NO aftermarket alarm made to work with OEM keyfobs, only the OEM CCM can do that and that would be a task of transplanting a newer CCM into your transporter.
If you fell electonicly inclined you could probably do [url=http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2339483]this[/url].[/QUOTE]
Wrong.
DEFA and many others make CAN-BUS controlled alarmsystems, they read everything from the CAN Network like door status, hood,trunk etc.
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;44058623]Wrong.
DEFA and many others make CAN-BUS controlled alarmsystems, they read everything from the CAN Network like door status, hood,trunk etc.[/QUOTE]
That's neat. I did not know they had Can-bus alarms...
But wouldn't he still require to have the updated CCM to even have the wireless capability and functionality that hes looking for? That alone might be a pain in the ass to install and get working.
So by shear luck of the universe, I got a JVC El Kameleon. For 20 bux. This radio is the tits, it's the KD-LX100 model.
Junkyards are fucking awesome. My first ever to a junkyard and I got new interior trim and side b interior pillars all for 50 bucks. Ill post a pic in a little bit.
^I often go to U Pull It here in Australia.. cool to see some of the euro / import cars that have been dumped there too...
Just finished fucking with my suspension... car squats like a motherfucker when you hit boost hard and its gave my bronze wheels a bright silver polished lip... thank for that, rear guards..
needa get some new parts.. and a new interior lol... daily'ing a car without carpet is getting old fast..
Here you go Shiban
[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3828/12808154213_ebe9718689_o.png[/img]
PK+ circuit lights the bulb, and each time the turn signal flashes it activates the relay which opens the ground for the bulb's circuit, making it turn off (and thus blink)
[editline]27th February 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Gulen;44045739]Ah, just the guy I wanted. I've got an '96 VW Transporter, hasn't got an alarm, does have an immobilizer. but it does have central locking, but I want to install a remote unlock system in it. But, I don't really want to have another thing on my keychain, so I'd like to use an OEM key from VW (newer version, which does have remote unlocking), do you think this is possible?[/QUOTE]
I have a sneaky hunch you're going to need to be looking into aftermarket equipment that works with 'lookalike' VW keys. This will work if you have the same style of ignition cyl that takes those weird cut keys, which it looks like you do.
Something like this:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-KEYLESS-ENTRY-SYSTEM-CENTRAL-LOCKING-VW-PASSAT-JETTA-GOLF-MK4-MK5-T4-/161154399700[/url]
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Central-Locking-Kit-VW-Golf-mk4-mk5-Polo-Bora-Passat-Jetta-Corrado-T4-T5-/110762464174[/url]
The big issue is that you're immobilized.. and presents problems for us to do this. With the above equipment you can control locks, have a VW factory style key with blade/buttons all in one.. but you won't be able to start the car.
BUT.. there's hope, you have two options.
1. bypass your immobilizer system. Use a factory key and using an inductive coupling method where you wrap the key, bury it behind the dash, and tap into the immobilizer wires, effectively show the van the RFID chip at all times, so it's like it's not immobilized anymore.
2. Remove the RFID chip from a factory key (without breaking it omg!!!) and implant it inside one of your new remotes. It should fit, I would imagine, usually there's wasted space.
Finally, if you want to use a genuine OEM VW keyfob for this... you're probably going to need to gut the module from another car. Never done that, obviously. I know on Audi A4s it's a vacuum module in the back that's also the keyless module, but that's tied into a whole bunch of BS in the car and just feeding it power and ground might not be enough. It could get dicey.
A word on CAN-bus alarm system integration, because it's worth talking about.
It is the absolute tits.
With this you now have your alarm/remotestart module that takes care of analog outputs (powering ignition wires, powering parking lights, etc) as in a traditional install. However, it also has a data protocol plug that runs on D2D 2 wire Rx/Tx data transfer. This plug allows it to connect to a bypass module and then allows that alarm brain to talk back and forth to that bypass module.
On many new vehicles that bypass module will be hooked into the J1850, Honda Single Wire CAN, CAN-bus etc system. All of these are major backbones for data and command transfer in the vehicle. What's getting AWESOME is that these days the majority of OUTPUTS from the alarm go something like..
alarm (unlock command) -> D2D out -> bypass module gets unlock command and outputs a vehicle specific BUS signal -> data bus in vehicle.
The car sees the commands and executes. Sick. Same for trunk pop, alarm disarm, etc on many models. Some programming teams have to go in there and rip all these discreet signals from a dynamic data-bus and then compile them so that the module can inject them into the system at the proper time.
That's outputs, makes life easy.
NOW!! Let's talk about inputs!
The same goes.. on this data-bus the module can be told to LOOK for things... as was mentioned things like door ajar, hood ajar, etc. This is great for alarm installs... no more discreet wires to tag if it's available!! Module sees it, tells the alarm via D2D that a door's open, and the alarm goes off!
This also rings true for looking for factory keyless signals, which is paramount for an alarm install with a built-in keyfob in the key. (Fords are major fail here, because there is no CAN-bus integration on them.. booo)
In the case of many makes, though, the bypass module can 'see' that unlock command on the databus from the factory keyfob. It sees that, then pushes a 'disarm' command into the brain. The brain disarms, the siren chirps, and you open the door without setting the AFTERMARKET alarm off... even though you unlocked the car with the FACTORY keyfob. Fucking sweet.
This same idea is what's used on the factory keyfob RS setups on newer cars. Back in the day you had to tag a lock motor wire and use that to pulse an input wire on the brain.. PITA. No more. Now it looks for the keyless lock signal, and when activated 3x within 5 seconds or whatever it'll activate and start up the car. Like the Charger in my post, some cars don't even need a traditional RS brain to do that... only the bypass module flashed with a different firmware version.
And that's what's what.
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