[QUOTE=sHiBaN;44088136]Please halp. That would be so sick to have working[/QUOTE]
i'm drawing something up right now.. had to think about it all day, but i got it.
[editline]2nd March 2014[/editline]
Here we go... gonna be some work, but it'll work.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/2flashy_zps0063fa70.png.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/2flashy_zps0063fa70.png[/IMG][/URL]
What do we have going on here?
To understand it we kind of need to understand how the normal circuit work, without the 3 cut wires and pretty colors. Normally ignition power feeds into the flasher unit, which then goes out and goes into the turn signal switch. When dormant, the voltage goes nowhere. When it's flipped left, it then connects to the + wire on all the left side turn signal wires. This lights them up. When the flasher sees that there's current flowing, it'll open, then close, then open, etc. (if you replace the flasher with a wire, then the turn signal switch would just illuminate either side.). So, there's no good way to 'cut off' the parking light feed from our after market side market lights, because the 'turn signal switch' is a switch that outputs and on/off/on/off pulse pattern.. we need something constant.
That brings us to our new schematic. We make the turn signal switch into a constant on or off switch. To achieve this we cut the wire going into the switch. Instead of feeding it 12v through the flasher, we now feed it just a normal 12v ignition (from the circuit before the flasher, even). This won't pulse when it sees load now. BUT.. that means that it'll just turn our turn signal lights on, instead of flashing. That's why we cut both outputs. We then use that constant output from the turn signal switch to activate relays, two per side.
One relay is going to do what the turn signal switch USED to do. You'll notice we feed the flasher side of the cut wire into pin 87 on the relay, and on pin 30 it goes out and connects to the lights side of the cut wire coming from the turn signal switch. This portion will keep the factory turn signals blinking like normal.
The other relay is our 'cut off' relay for the aftermarket side marker. Normally we're feeding parking light 12v into the 87a (normally closed) terminal, which then outputs 12v parking light from pin 30 and lights up our side marker with the parking lights. You'll see it activates and thus opens that parking light + wire when we activate a turn signal, making the light go out and then be ready for it to flash with the turn signal.
Finally we have the diode, one per side. This allows current to only flow the way the arrow points. If we didn't put this in, then when we turn the parking lights on ALL of the turn signals around the whole car (including cluster indicators, lol) would light up. Use a nice fat diode like a 6A to ensure it can handle the couple amps the marker light pulls.
So there ya have it... it'll flash at the same time as the turn signals, not alternating, and will illuminate with the parking lights.
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;44096187] wiped down the dash and everything else that was plastic.[/QUOTE]
Wiped down all the plastic in a Crown Vic? Jesus that must of taken ages.
I guess my car hates the rain. It started pouring rain for the past few days. I haven't driven the car until after a whole day of rain on it and when I started to drive it for the first minutes, the brakes were acting up and the brakes even locked up on me. But after driving for a few minutes it fixed itself. But the next day I went to lowes to get a T50 for the car cuz I was working on it, and when the car started an EML (engine management light) light popped up and it began to hold back the throttle so I couldn't accelerate! But after a minute of struggling, the EML light turned off and it started driving regularly.
[editline]2nd March 2014[/editline]
When I got back from the store I left the doors open as I was working on the car. And when I tried to start it later that night, the battery was dead.
My left break light broke in the middle of the week. I got my things right and fixed it yesterday and tried it, worked fine. Later that day I started my car to move it to the right spot to park, and my left front Xenon light broke. No idea how, should they not have real fucking long life time?
Well, no reason to get mad, it was broken had to get a new one. Drove and bought a new one and installed it and noticed how much better it was then the right one so I might just change that one and keep the old as a spare.
[QUOTE=clutch2;44098132]
So there ya have it... it'll flash at the same time as the turn signals, not alternating, and will illuminate with the parking lights.[/QUOTE]
Mr. Clutch you have solved the mystery Nissan guys have been scratching their head at for years. Thanks, let me see what I can do and I'll check. Here's the real diagrams if you're ever interested:
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/SofQz32.jpg[/thumb][thumb]http://i.imgur.com/rVX2iKn.jpg[/thumb]
Word dude. From what I'm seeing it looks like lightgreen/blue is the ign feed into the turn signal switch (pin 1) and green/yellow and green/black are the left/right outputs (pins 2 and 3) on that diagram. So those 3 wires would be the ones to interface with. The diagram I hacked up was a 1994 since I couldn't find an older one and didn't know what year yours was.
OBD port wasn't working onna uhaul truck so i called the hotline and they directed me to the fuse i needed to try to replace.
Obviously we have no 20a fuses in stock because fuck, so I used my not-a-retard brain and swapped the 20a Fuel pump fuse for the obd fuse, checked the codes, cleared em, and then swapped the fuse back.
and was even nice enough to call the hotline back so they can close the case. (assuming it works like GMs dealer hotline works)
So a day ago I noticed some squish in my brakes, today I find my passenger brake line has a leak in it, it seems to have burst pinholes along the inside line and it's torn (fuckingwhy) on the outside, passenger CV boot has a hole too (did I hit a branch or something?), my driver side rotor is warped (what?), same side rack bellow is shredded (FACK) and my sway bar link bushings are falling apart...
yay...
You've got some annoying stuff to fix in your future :)
It was inventory night at work tonight.. so after counting everysinglething in the whole darn store I cruised home at 1am. It was -19F according to my car's temp gauge, and out in the country where it was dark dark the stars we gorgeous. I got off the freeway for a minute and killed the headlights just to enjoy them.. not a cloud around or anything. On the horizon toward town it faded to a dim purple from the city's light. Spectacular. I can't wait until summer again to enjoy that kind of thing without my nose feeling weird.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44109313]So a day ago I noticed some squish in my brakes, today I find my passenger brake line has a leak in it, it seems to have burst pinholes along the inside line and it's torn (fuckingwhy) on the outside, passenger CV boot has a hole too (did I hit a branch or something?), my driver side rotor is warped (what?), same side rack bellow is shredded (FACK) and my sway bar link bushings are falling apart...
yay...[/QUOTE]
Stainless steel lines, probably time for new axles anyways, brakes suck, time to do tie rod inners/outers, old bushings all fall apart.
Sounds like a high mileage honda, most things start to wear out by 150k and end up like that by 200k.
All my LCA bushings are worn out, my lower balljoints might be popping every so often, my front endlinks look pretty meh and my compliance bushings are starting to go. My struts are OEM used from a 98 JDM Type-R too. Nothing's really that significant though.
[QUOTE=ica|kvantum;44103134]My left break light broke in the middle of the week. I got my things right and fixed it yesterday and tried it, worked fine. Later that day I started my car to move it to the right spot to park, and my left front Xenon light broke. No idea how, should they not have real fucking long life time?
Well, no reason to get mad, it was broken had to get a new one. Drove and bought a new one and installed it and noticed how much better it was then the right one so I might just change that one and keep the old as a spare.[/QUOTE]
The bulbs should last an awful long, yeah, there could be something else that broke, though.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44110337]Stainless steel lines, probably time for new axles anyways, brakes suck, time to do tie rod inners/outers, old bushings all fall apart.
Sounds like a high mileage honda, most things start to wear out by 150k and end up like that by 200k.
All my LCA bushings are worn out, my lower balljoints might be popping every so often, my front endlinks look pretty meh and my compliance bushings are starting to go. My struts are OEM used from a 98 JDM Type-R too. Nothing's really that significant though.[/QUOTE]
It is high mileage, 141k something, but the part that sucks is both CV axles are new and all brake parts are new save the metal lines that run the length of the car. I'm just wondering if the guy that J-hooked my car hit the boot and line (wouldn't be surprised, he destroyed the one opposite at that time, it's new new.) and it hadn't had a problem till now. That makes a bit less since seeing as the brake fluid is not fuckingeverywhere but mostly on the tire and the CV grease was only lightly coating the area nearby. I wonder if I hit something to cause this. However, the rack bellow IS old as sin and needs replaced, also sway bar links.
I also need to get a new seal for the cv on the drivers side cuz it's leaking a small bit of trans fluid. :/
If the CV's are new you should be able to warranty them or just replace the boot, Cheap rotors often warp, warranty that as well if you can or just get it turned. The shop I go to said that after a cheap rotor warps you can generally turn them and they'll actually be decent.
It sounds like you need to go bitch out whoever towed your car or whatever you meant by J-hooked.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44116835]If the CV's are new you should be able to warranty them or just replace the boot, Cheap rotors often warp, warranty that as well if you can or just get it turned. The shop I go to said that after a cheap rotor warps you can generally turn them and they'll actually be decent.
It sounds like you need to go bitch out whoever towed your car or whatever you meant by J-hooked.[/QUOTE]
The CVs are warrantied so that'll get handled tomorrow. I did get my brake line changed and found that the HUB is whats warped, not the rotor. That pisses me off because I could only find one set, so now if I want to fix it I'll have to wait because any place around here that can get 4 bolt hubs for my car has to order them. Not one junk yard with in 100 miles has a 95 accord v6 with 4 bolt hubs, and the one that did I got these hubs from plus the guy that got me the awesome deal on them, who was a good friends step dad, passed away.
And yeah, J-hooking is a towing thing. Its basically using one of [url=http://69.89.31.80/~baprodco/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/5_16__G70_Chain__4c616ac625ddb.jpg]these[/url] and putting it anywhere you can to tow/move/drag the car/truck your trying to get. Also, never j-hook a bumper, always turns out very bad, go for the frame/subframe or lower control arm (but only if RWD).
The guy that hooked my car is a junk car guy, I'm not surprised that he hooked it the way he did. I was getting it moved from my driveway to the shop at that time so I could finish working on it proper.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/QgwWrwS.jpg[/IMG]
Cleaned, prepped and primered. Third coat of teal color will be applied tomorrow when there is sun to dry everything. [B]SOON[/B]
[QUOTE=creative;44092848]As you drive the tire will inflate more, because of the speed they are rotating at. If the ride is terrible you should probably take some air out[/QUOTE]
I always thought the inflation while driving was due to heat?
When a tire rolls on tarmac, the friction between the tire and the road causes the tire to heat up. Air expands when heated, making the psi of air in the tire rise
[QUOTE=FordLord;44121369]I always thought the inflation while driving was due to heat?
When a tire rolls on tarmac, the friction between the tire and the road causes the tire to heat up. Air expands when heated, making the psi of air in the tire rise[/QUOTE]
Watch a video of dragsters with really soft sidewalls. The tires will expand at high rpms during burnout due to centrifugal force throwing the tread outwards. Same thing happens for every tire, just not as pronounced due to stiffer sidewalls.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44123531]Watch a video of dragsters with really soft sidewalls. The tires will expand at high rpms during burnout due to centrifugal force throwing the tread outwards. Same thing happens for every tire, just not as pronounced due to stiffer sidewalls.[/QUOTE]
no to the extent that they do but even slow driving flexes the tires and generate heat. that is why low psi tires will blow out( ford explorer in the 90s). u can watch the psi gauge in my jeep, in garage 33psi drive 5 miles at 35 mph 36psi. i have seen it in the 40s in summer heat at 75 mph for hours on end.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44123531]Watch a video of dragsters with really soft sidewalls. The tires will expand at high rpms during burnout due to centrifugal force throwing the tread outwards. Same thing happens for every tire, just not as pronounced due to stiffer sidewalls.[/QUOTE]
That is true, but slightly off from what i was meaning.
creative said " As you drive the tire will inflate more, because of the speed they are rotating at."
Which technically isnt true.
If you jack up a car and floor it, the centrifugal force will make the tread sling and expand a bit. However, the pressure inside wont actually rise since the temperature didnt change and no air was added or removed. So the tire will expand, but not actually inflate since the pressure stays the same.
So itd be correct to say "As you drive the tire will expand, because of the speed they are rotating at."
And itd be correct to say "As you drive the tire will inflate more, because of the friction between the tire and the road causing the tire to heat up"
[QUOTE=FordLord;44125890]That is true, but slightly off from what i was meaning.
creative said " As you drive the tire will inflate more, because of the speed they are rotating at."
Which technically isnt true.
If you jack up a car and floor it, the centrifugal force will make the tread sling and expand a bit. However, the pressure inside wont actually rise since the temperature didnt change and no air was added or removed. So the tire will expand, but not actually inflate since the pressure stays the same.
So itd be correct to say "As you drive the tire will expand, because of the speed they are rotating at."
And itd be correct to say "As you drive the tire will inflate more, because of the friction between the tire and the road causing the tire to heat up"[/QUOTE]
Ah, I get ya now. You were talking about heat expansion instead of centrifugal force expansion. I thought he was talking about centrifugal force aspect due to the second part....
[QUOTE=FordLord;44121369]I always thought the inflation while driving was due to heat?
When a tire rolls on tarmac, the friction between the tire and the road causes the tire to heat up. Air expands when heated, making the psi of air in the tire rise[/QUOTE]
Heh, yeah thats right actually, but it should in theory be both forces at play. Either way though, if you're inflating your tires JUST because they look low and then they ride shitty, you should take some air out.
Time to bust out he multimeter and check out if I have a parasitic draw from my battery (damn audis). the battery is just barely 3 years old so it should still be good, but after sitting a couple days without moving the battery is just barely low enough to not fire up.
My guess is a tossup between the heated seat switches, interior light switches, or the radio. Maybe the sunroof switch also, because I need to clean the contacts on that anyways to fix it opening right after closing it
[QUOTE=creative;44126026]
Time to bust out he multimeter and check out if I have a parasitic draw from my battery (damn audis). the battery is just barely 3 years old so it should still be good, but after sitting a couple days without moving the battery is just barely low enough to not fire up.
My guess is a tossup between the heated seat switches, interior light switches, or the radio. Maybe the sunroof switch also, because I need to clean the contacts on that anyways to fix it opening right after closing it[/QUOTE]
Good luck.
5$ says it thinks a door is open and the CCM stays on.
Jimmys and Blazers have a similar problem, the ecm and bcm eat the shit out of batteries.
Also a major service announcement if you didn't already know, both trucks of all years and models have an issue with low battry no starts. If the batt is too low the damn things will start hard or simply not at all. It's a major fault with the ECM.
I just fixed 3 of them by putting new batterys in or charging, two people ran them down by leaving the key on with out running the engine (auto-lights are always on) and the third had a bad batt. 2 charges and a replacement and all was fixed.
Bad door switch on a VW/Audi would be nothing new, lol. I've seen a ton of amps killing the battery on Monsoon VWs, but not too often on the Audi Bose/Symphony/Concert. Who knows, the meter will hold the answer though, as it always does.
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