• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
drove to UPS to pick this up [IMG]https://31.media.tumblr.com/1daabfaf7bb584ed064509508284df96/tumblr_n1y0hvTre31rirhq1o1_500.jpg[/IMG] almost all the parts needed to rebuild a 4AGE, just need head bolts and a timing belt tensioner.
[IMG]http://distilleryimage11.ak.instagram.com/8caad7f2a3de11e3b48012bfafc99cef_8.jpg[/IMG] Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;44133717][IMG]http://distilleryimage11.ak.instagram.com/8caad7f2a3de11e3b48012bfafc99cef_8.jpg[/IMG] Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa[/QUOTE] How many coats left?
The GTI has been running a little rough lately. New plugs, oil and a clean MAF and its running like a champ again. I've got a replacement D/S axle to put in as well, but apparently I didn't look close enough at the hub bolts to realize I needed a 10mm triple square socket to take it off. Oh well at least I got the fight with the rusted axle nut out of the way.
Just did my amp draw test. God damn. 1.5 amp draw at standby. that's 30 times higher than it should be (with a recommendation of under 50 milliamps) Circuits affected: 37 - Radio 39 - Luggage Compartment Light, central locking (I hope to god its the trunk light) 15 - instrument cluster, anti-theft alarm system, vanity mirror hopefully my repair manual has all the wiring diagrams that i'll need. I'm not even sure where to start. The radio is taking up the most power, but im not quite sure how to fix it. When I would pull the fuse out, or put it back in the speakers made an audible power on noise. I beseech thee, wattage gods, help me find these 'leaks'.
Just ordered a CB Radio lastnight with all of the necessary gear to get me going. I'm looking forward to this weekend project. :)
10-4, little buddy.
[QUOTE=creative;44138648]Just did my amp draw test. God damn. 1.5 amp draw at standby. that's 30 times higher than it should be (with a recommendation of under 50 milliamps) Circuits affected: 37 - Radio 39 - Luggage Compartment Light, central locking (I hope to god its the trunk light) 15 - instrument cluster, anti-theft alarm system, vanity mirror hopefully my repair manual has all the wiring diagrams that i'll need. I'm not even sure where to start. The radio is taking up the most power, but im not quite sure how to fix it. When I would pull the fuse out, or put it back in the speakers made an audible power on noise. I beseech thee, wattage gods, help me find these 'leaks'.[/QUOTE] Holy shit. Whats the draw on each of those circuits? For the radio, if you unplug the fuse then plug it in and the speakers pop the amp sounds like it might not be turning off. Which Audi/sound system do you have? That'll help us determine if it's the amp that powers the speakers popping (premium Bose/ Symphony, IIRC) or if it's just the radio that powers the speakers (concert, IIRC). From there we can diag what needs replacement. Wouldn't be the first bad Audi radio, either. Unplug that fkin trunk light and pray :) If you need some diagrams I have alldata at work and can pull power distribution schems.
Fecking around with the 7's mufflers, packing them to try and stop my trim from shaking loose. Didn't work, going to open up one of my sets of stock mufflers and mod the internals instead... double wall stainless steel, nearly twice the internal volume, should give lots of noise outside without resonating all through the car... [img]http://mar.imghost.us/L0aQ.jpg[/img] [img]http://mar.imghost.us/L0ak.jpg[/img] The guy helping me out is fantastic. Runs a wheel repair shop and is a really top bloke, didn't charge me a cent for about 3 hours of cutting and welding (but I'm going to repay him with alcohol anyway, I'm not a cheapskate). It's almost impossible to find someone in Australia who will let you even step inside their shop, let alone use their tools or take time out to actually help you with what you want to tweak and change!
[QUOTE=clutch2;44143257]Holy shit. Whats the draw on each of those circuits? For the radio, if you unplug the fuse then plug it in and the speakers pop the amp sounds like it might not be turning off. Which Audi/sound system do you have? That'll help us determine if it's the amp that powers the speakers popping (premium Bose/ Symphony, IIRC) or if it's just the radio that powers the speakers (concert, IIRC). From there we can diag what needs replacement. Wouldn't be the first bad Audi radio, either. Unplug that fkin trunk light and pray :) If you need some diagrams I have alldata at work and can pull power distribution schems.[/QUOTE] The draw on the stereo fuse was about 1.3 amps, so that's going to be my main focus for now. The car originally had a delta cc radio (1998 model year), with standard non-bose speakers and no cd changer in the trunk. But it currently has a cheapo Boss headunit, I just needed aux input, nothing fancy. I'd like to think I didn't botch the install of it, as it was just plug and play because there was already an aftermarket stereo in it. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Fh3d11W.jpg[/t] This is the only diagram I could find, which doesn't really help me finding the problem :v:
Is the draw on Fuse 37, then?? That 20a'er. If that really only feeds battery 12v to the radio just unplug the radio when you're doing your draw test. If the draw leaves then it's most def shitty |3055 engineering at work.
Yeah 37 is the main draw. I'll try check the draw without the radio plugged in, along with the trunk light (lock myself in trunk??? sounds like fun) before work tomorrow. We'll see if weather permits The other diagrams for the other leaks (instrument cluster, power windows, climate control on one fuse; trunk light, central locking on the other) all seem to have [B]a lot[/B] of connections with each other, which in my mind seems like its going to make it even harder to figure out where the problem is at for those. If I remove the stereo and there is no draw for that fuse, what would my options look like? Just unplugging my battery at night doesn't sound like too bad of an idea :v:
If you remove the stereo and there's no draw on that fuse anymore I'd say it's time for a new stereo!
[QUOTE=creative;44144895]Yeah 37 is the main draw. I'll try check the draw without the radio plugged in, along with the trunk light (lock myself in trunk??? sounds like fun) before work tomorrow. We'll see if weather permits The other diagrams for the other leaks (instrument cluster, power windows, climate control on one fuse; trunk light, central locking on the other) all seem to have [B]a lot[/B] of connections with each other, which in my mind seems like its going to make it even harder to figure out where the problem is at for those. If I remove the stereo and there is no draw for that fuse, what would my options look like? Just unplugging my battery at night doesn't sound like too bad of an idea :v:[/QUOTE] Uhh, you could just put a switch on the constant wire. While that's really a bandaid it's a lot less silly than unplugging the battery..
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/BNHqjjb.jpg?1[/IMG] Valve cover media blasted. Painting time. Gotta clean the timing cover next.
I need to visit that store. I see no price tags on anything.
Picked up my new steering column from LKQ and got my midpipe last week so now I'm almost ready for inspection! Once I have a job I'll have to replace my trunk. An F150 backed into me parked in a 7-11 parking lot last night :(
Installed the CB Radio :) It was such a pain in the ass to decide where I wanted to mount it. I ended up opting for on top of the dash. I have to say, I'm proud. I ran the wires into my dash and down to my fuse block. The ground couldn't have been in a more convenient spot. The screw holding the fuse block in place on the frame was the optimal distance for my to connect my ground wire. I don't have the antenna mount yet, that should arrive tomorrow. So all that's left is running the coaxial to the back, through the gate and to the bumper. I still don't quite know where I'll mount the antenna, but I'll think of something tomorrow. I wish I would have taken pictures. I'll take some of the finished project if ya'll are interested.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44145418]Uhh, you could just put a switch on the constant wire. While that's really a bandaid it's a lot less silly than unplugging the battery..[/QUOTE] I was kidding, after switching the radio the draw is low enough for now. I'll bring a more sensitive multimeter out tomorrow and check how much is still being drained if any. [QUOTE=clutch2;44144948]If you remove the stereo and there's no draw on that fuse anymore I'd say it's time for a new stereo![/QUOTE] Put my old headunit in, back to the stone age of CDs and radio. Do you happen know how sound quality is on an aux converter like this? [URL]http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Accessories/CA-C1AUX[/URL]
[QUOTE=creative;44155500] Put my old headunit in, back to the stone age of CDs and radio. Do you happen know how sound quality is on an aux converter like this? [URL]http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Accessories/CA-C1AUX[/URL][/QUOTE] It'll be as good as the D/A convertor in the device you've plugged in can be (that and the file quality itself). That being said, the piece you posted is an aux add-on piece for Kenwood radios that don't have a front aux input, but that the proper Kenwood proprietary plug on the rear (the age of 'sat ready' badging, specifically).
[QUOTE=clutch2;44155824]It'll be as good as the D/A convertor in the device you've plugged in can be (that and the file quality itself). That being said, the piece you posted is an aux add-on piece for Kenwood radios that don't have a front aux input, but that the proper Kenwood proprietary plug on the rear (the age of 'sat ready' badging, specifically).[/QUOTE] For a bit there I was thinking that would plug into the radio antenna jack in the back, but realized it plugs into the 13 pin jack. My kenwood has no straight up aux port, but the adapter I just bought goes straight to 13mm aux instead of the left/right audio channels
These lil fellers are what I use for FM-input integration [url]http://www.carid.com/universal-audio-accessories/pac-audio-accessories-16829714.html?CAWELAID=120020440005897192&%22cagpspn=pla%22&gclid=CIPz2YLO_7wCFewRMwod0yQAxQ[/url] The soundquality is generally a little quiet, IMO, and no better than a decent FM station of course. Honestly if you have a cassette player the adapter for that is just as good.
got the transfer case bolts loose, got the trans jack hooked up to the transfer case, realized i didn't have an adjustable wrench handy to remove my speedometer gear so I spent an hour organizing the toolbox i found in january. so now I just need to remove the bolts all the way and pull the t-case back and then thats out of the way.
[QUOTE=creative;44155500]I was kidding, after switching the radio the draw is low enough for now. I'll bring a more sensitive multimeter out tomorrow and check how much is still being drained if any. Put my old headunit in, back to the stone age of CDs and radio. Do you happen know how sound quality is on an aux converter like this? [URL]http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Accessories/CA-C1AUX[/URL][/QUOTE] [QUOTE=creative;44155887]For a bit there I was thinking that would plug into the radio antenna jack in the back, but realized it plugs into the 13 pin jack. My kenwood has no straight up aux port, but the adapter I just bought goes straight to 13mm aux instead of the left/right audio channels[/QUOTE] I put this in my F-150 when I took my in-dash DVD out and put it in my mustang: [url]http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-X6600BT[/url] Cheap at walmart, EXCELLENT sound quality, and I didn't have any residual power draw issues with it. But first, check the wiring on the aftermarket harness. It shouldn't be drawing THAT much residual power just to keep your presets stored....
I stopped upholstery progress on the Corvette seats... due to them being for a Corvette. I found a sweet deal, on a $50 bench seat. It came out of a 69 Dart GTX, so It will bolt right in. I'll redo the upholstery on it to match the back, and put some black carpet on the back. Got to treck out to somewhere called Eldorado Hills, CA. Never heard of it, probably middle of nowhere. Fun times.
Today was slow, painfully slow. Yesterday wasn't so bad, I got to tear apart the key cylinder for a 91 Nissan Stanza my buddy got his pregnant ass gf. It's not too bad, but needs alot of shit fixed. So far I (because he has cancer and can't do alot anymore) fixed his injectors (some tapping with a nail hammer, marvel and a 9V battery tapped to them), new fuel pump, tail light bulbs and a jerry-rig job on his brake pedal (little rubber things that hit the brake light and shift release switches) and it's so far fairly good to go. It's at least drivable, and tomorrow maybe at some point its gonna get a replacement bearing on the front right wheel. For my car I'm going to quite soon need to do a transaxle rebuild, it's kind of slipping going from 2nd to 3rd but quits when it warms up. The kit is around 200 bux, but if it needs it then so be it. The car has 142k miles on it and was dogged by the last owner and mal-maintained and had it not been the tranny would have lasted sooo much longer. Reading in another thread I saw someone here post saying the V6 Accords have bad trannys, thats not true, the 98 onwards accord trannys are the shit ones, 95 to 97 are the good ones.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44166024]I stopped upholstery progress on the Corvette seats... due to them being for a Corvette. I found a sweet deal, on a $50 bench seat. It came out of a 69 Dart GTX, so It will bolt right in. I'll redo the upholstery on it to match the back, and put some black carpet on the back. Got to treck out to somewhere called Eldorado Hills, CA. Never heard of it, probably middle of nowhere. Fun times.[/QUOTE] If you are heading out there, PM me. Please. I hope you didn't already go. In fact, add me on steam just in case (I check Facepunch more than steam, though)
Text me some pics serj k?
[QUOTE=>VLN<;44166246]If you are heading out there, PM me. Please. I hope you didn't already go. In fact, add me on steam just in case (I check Facepunch more than steam, though)[/QUOTE] ?? Leaving now?? I knew it. Middle of nowhere deliverance shizzit.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44166024]I stopped upholstery progress on the Corvette seats... due to them being for a Corvette. I found a sweet deal, on a $50 bench seat. It came out of a 69 Dart GTX, so It will bolt right in. I'll redo the upholstery on it to match the back, and put some black carpet on the back. Got to treck out to somewhere called Eldorado Hills, CA. Never heard of it, probably middle of nowhere. Fun times.[/QUOTE] The fuck is a dart GTX? C'mon man, get your terms right! There is the base model, GT, and GTS. Later years had the swinger.
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