• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Anyone ever work on a Cadillac 32v Northstar engine? I have, and the starter is on top of the engine and under the plenum. It's like someone at the Cadillac division said "HEY, I got a crazy idea for an engine." That was fun, rather easy. Then theres the AC compressor, my knuckles have more reason to hate me now. I've also got a kinda project 4Wheeler thats sat for 10 years untouched. It runs but the carb is being a cunt, every time I fix it it works just long enough for me to have fun speeding through the dirt then it cuts fuel and dies. fucking float needle valves spring thingy is stuck and I'm sure thats part of the problem. Plus the guide for it is shit.
While my car is running, and i unplug my MAF sensor, the idle doesn't change and it doesn't sound any different when I hit the gas. bad MAF?
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;40158594]While my car is running, and i unplug my MAF sensor, the idle doesn't change and it doesn't sound any different when I hit the gas. bad MAF?[/QUOTE] Check it with an ohm-meter
[QUOTE=Ldesu;40158639]Check it with an ohm-meter[/QUOTE] maybe tonight i got work soon ):
a maf signal is a frequence (hertz). Y'all need a oscilloscope. the resistance is for the IAT
No, you need a 3 dollar multimeter from harbor freight. Switch to ohms and check the resistance on the specified terminals, if it is out of spec, then replace it. If it is in spec, clean it with maf cleaner. If it still doesn't work it could be your wiring (that was my problem) and if not that then go down the line.
[QUOTE]There are two common designs of MAF sensors used in today's vehicles. One produces a variable voltage output (analog) and the other produces a frequency output (digital). In either case their operation is similar. Both outputs can be measured by a scanner or a digital volt/ohm meter (dvom) that can measure frequency.[/QUOTE] [url]http://www.sensorland.com/HowPage060.html[/url] well fuck me good. Looks like supra have the frequency faggotery (1jz uses map, woohoo)
i just cleaned it the other day. i used maf cleaner and i was real gentle about it tho so im hoping i didn't break it. i was trying to get it to stall today by hitting the brakes but it wasn't doing it, but it was dropping to like 300rpm which is faggy cause oil pressure [video=youtube;3XFA4TqNMhA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XFA4TqNMhA[/video] halp
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;40164108]i just cleaned it the other day. i used maf cleaner and i was real gentle about it tho so im hoping i didn't break it. i was trying to get it to stall today by hitting the brakes but it wasn't doing it, but it was dropping to like 300rpm which is faggy cause oil pressure [video=youtube;3XFA4TqNMhA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XFA4TqNMhA[/video] halp[/QUOTE] That's normal.. Turn the wheel and punch the brakes at the same time. It sounds more like you may just need to clean your IACV. If your MAF was bad you would have a idiotic/surging idle most likely.
The car was stalling while coasting up to red lights when i hit the brakes [editline]4th April 2013[/editline] also i had a code for lean on bank 1
Vacuum leak. Check brake booster line first. Spray around with carb cleaner to find leak. Also clean your IAC.
i have hydroboost, and i think my PCV might be letting air into the intake, it's kind of loose in it's grommet and it's rattling. I already ordered a new one it's going to show up at work tomorrow morning.
Just received the new 4.0L intake manifold and larger throttle body. These will be going on my little 3.0L in the beamer, should make some pretty big differences to the whole power band. There's an ever so slightly better intake manifold that has velocity stacks inside, but I wasn't able to get one of those. This will still do perfectly though; [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img560/2025/intake740.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Sobek-;40165657]Just received the new 4.0L intake manifold and larger throttle body. These will be going on my little 3.0L in the beamer, should make some pretty big differences to the whole power band. There's an ever so slightly better intake manifold that has velocity stacks inside, but I wasn't able to get one of those. This will still do perfectly though; [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img560/2025/intake740.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]' I love how those kind of intakes look, the 05-present mustangs have intakes like that
Ok I need help, I've been getting some clunking from the front drivers side of my car for about a year now, I guessed it was a bad CV joint as it sounds almost the same and as if it's coming from the wheel, however my cars just been for an MOT, they said the wheel, CV joint and bearings are all fine, they could look deeper into it but it shouldn't be a problem. Thing is I just realised I get the noise while going in a straight line slowly, and it will bang when going over bumps in the road. Also starting the engine on a really cold morning will create the same bang noise, and quickly changing revs. Today I noticed while at a set of lights when it's in first gear, if I push even harder on the gear stick towards first, the knocking appears until i release pressure. I'm quite stumped, could it be the engine/transmission mount?
Engine and transmission mount wouldn't make steering or not count, would it? dat rhyme
Spark plugs and air filter on bike.
Nah don't think the steering makes a difference to the noise, just engine speed/temp and that thing with the gears.
Problem: Car barfs on ground 60's stye when boil over occurs. Solution: Purchase recirculating catch can. Problem: Catch can costs money Solution: Go to gas station, and buy a drink. Thirsty. Rockstar. Good. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00600_zps5fcc928e.jpg[/IMG] Bitches and hose [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00601_zpse4e23fd3.jpg[/IMG] Mount using heavy duty industrial zip ties where radiator typically pukes at. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00602_zps666d5e77.jpg[/IMG] No one will ever know. To recirculate, simply remove can from industrial brackets, then pour into radiator. I'll buy a recirculating one one day... I know all you people with those new-fangled "modern" recirculating rads could give a damn, but trust me, this is a priceless modification.
Thats a pretty neat idea and it works too. Best can idea I could come with is to use an empty Venom can as an exhaust tip. :P I've yet to try it, maybe it's about time I did something with it.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;40176370]Thats a pretty neat idea and it works too. Best can idea I could come with is to use an empty Venom can as an exhaust tip. :P I've yet to try it, maybe it's about time I did something with it.[/QUOTE] Those venom cans actually look cool. I always thought of something to do with them,but never did, so they'd sit in a cup holder for a while with no real purpose. The 24oz can seems perfect. A NOS can would be equally useful.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;40173507]Ok I need help, I've been getting some clunking from the front drivers side of my car for about a year now, I guessed it was a bad CV joint as it sounds almost the same and as if it's coming from the wheel, however my cars just been for an MOT, they said the wheel, CV joint and bearings are all fine, they could look deeper into it but it shouldn't be a problem. Thing is I just realised I get the noise while going in a straight line slowly, and it will bang when going over bumps in the road. Also starting the engine on a really cold morning will create the same bang noise, and quickly changing revs. Today I noticed while at a set of lights when it's in first gear, if I push even harder on the gear stick towards first, the knocking appears until i release pressure. I'm quite stumped, could it be the engine/transmission mount?[/QUOTE] Motor mounts maybe... or if it's when you hit bumps you might start checking out suspension bushings
I'm sure the bushings were all checked during the MOT, in fact I had a rear coil spring replaced because it was 'incomplete'. I think I'll try and recreate the noise while the car is stationary, maybe find the source with a camera or something.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;40176972]I'm sure the bushings were all checked during the MOT, in fact I had a rear coil spring replaced because it was 'incomplete'. I think I'll try and recreate the noise while the car is stationary, maybe find the source with a camera or something.[/QUOTE] Just because they looked at them and they aren't pissing grease out of the balljoints/axles doesn't mean they are good. Check your wheel bearings and tie rods, CV's will make "clicking" noises when turning when they are broken.
Replaced that smashed panel on the Skyrine.
Got around to these deadly bushings today. Nothing like a swerving car to your death [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5PLEvel.png[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/17S5WLk.png[/IMG]
Ffs the play in my steering is inside my rebuilt rack. If i grab the drivers side tie rod and push up/down, the whole inside of the rack moves with it. Emailed the company i bought it from, hoping for the best
Awwww ye. No more front frame metal straining. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ddhBRi1.png[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/dU5EWAw.png[/IMG] Energy Suspension are p.cool
Who the fuck does shit like this? [t]http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/2168/imag0168ry.jpg[/t] [t]http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2046/imag0169e.jpg[/t] [t]http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7735/imag0170lt.jpg[/t] [t]http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/9485/imag0178i.jpg[/t] Aww yeah that's better [t]http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/8725/imag0179r.jpg[/t] [t]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2258/imag0181gj.jpg[/t] [t]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/5846/imag0182nj.jpg[/t] [t]http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/4996/imag0183t.jpg[/t]
Is that a vr6 lip. Making my dick hard.
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