• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Made a ghetto ass panel for my switches, Probably going to order a radio delete panel to replace it with if I can find a OEM one or one that's proper quality. [img]http://i.imgur.com/YmEO7AG.png[/img] Now all that's left is to move the electric window controls up there and make a kill switch for the entire panel for security reasons
[QUOTE=Strontboer;44246181]Made a ghetto ass panel for my switches, Probably going to order a radio delete panel to replace it with if I can find a OEM one or one that's proper quality. [img]http://i.imgur.com/YmEO7AG.png[/img] Now all that's left is to move the electric window controls up there and make a kill switch for the entire panel for security reasons[/QUOTE] I wouldn't call it ghetto. It actually looks fine. Maybe the pictures are doing it more justice though? At one time I made a switch blank like that out of a DVD case and forgot to ever change it. It was flimsy, but it looked the part.
One of my classmates from high school suffered a nasty accident his junior year and is now paralyzed from the waist down, but it hasn't stopped him from chasing the hooning dream. He asked me for some advice on suspension for his Scion TC, we ordered some Megans, and I helped him install them last weekend. It was downright inspirational seeing him work on his car, he didn't skip a beat and we honestly did an equal amount of work and had the whole thing done, including ride height tuning, in around 4 hours. If he couldn't reach a bolt bending over in his chair, he'd throw himself on the floor of the garage and make it work. The dude's a fucking champ. [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/1658225_702529619770090_1620161910_o.jpg[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/1782354_702529519770100_1480509217_o.jpg[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/1795213_702529633103422_1294617610_o.jpg[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/10003743_702529486436770_2026444461_o.jpg[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/10005922_702529506436768_1777466697_o.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Serj22;44246221]I wouldn't call it ghetto. It actually looks fine. Maybe the pictures are doing it more justice though? At one time I made a switch blank like that out of a DVD case and forgot to ever change it. It was flimsy, but it looked the part.[/QUOTE] Yeah for now it will do, I'm just new to everything metal wise so I just made it out of wood and it's such a tight fit that it will just stay in that position. I'll have to learn how to make a proper one that I can attach with nuts and bolts or something.
[QUOTE=Strontboer;44246181]Made a ghetto ass panel for my switches, Probably going to order a radio delete panel to replace it with if I can find a OEM one or one that's proper quality. [img]http://i.imgur.com/YmEO7AG.png[/img] Now all that's left is to move the electric window controls up there and make a kill switch for the entire panel for security reasons[/QUOTE] OH dude! I have a radio delete panel for an e36 if you want it, just pay shipping and I'll shoot it over. It has 3 toggle switches and a push to start.
Oh do you have some pictures of it? Is it a OEM panel with switches fitted in? Because after I switch out the default ECU for a racing ECU I'll be needing more then just 3 switches. But I'm really interested in how it looks!
[QUOTE=Serj22;44246129]I'm sure people go 100 all day with no issue in darts, but for reals - this thing is unfixable. I have tried different latches and no matter what the corners pop up, and the hood jumps up and down. I'll take a video if I have to but seriously, it won't lay down. I think if anything, the hood was compromised and flexes too much, but in the future, I'll just buy a new hood. Plus, holes are fixable with a little welding if I ever solve the problem, but for now, as my daily driver, with my 3 year old, and one year old in the car - I don't care, I'm bolting the fucker down. Also, since it's a 4 door, in moparland that means it's only good to be cut up and used to fix a two door, so I wouldn't say I'm devaluing it either. I know there's probably a circle of mopar buzzards somewhere wishing I would cut up my rust free 68 and sell the metal to them, but it's not going to happen anytime soon. Maybe designed was a bad word choice, but maybe expected - or should go, is a better one. I don't think they expected slants to be rolling around faster than that really. I could be wrong - I mean they did race them at one point so they knew the potential was there, and the car did come with bigger motors, but the issue remains, and since it's the only older car I've owned that had an issue like this that couldn't be fixed with new hinges/ latches. To put it in a better visual, the hood gradually turns into a big "U" shape while driving. The front center stays locked down and the sides fly up - so hood compormise is probably the issue - it may not be fully attached to the underframe anymore - but I can't tell because someone before me shot bedliner all over it or some junk. It doesn't look like the normal mopar rust coating. It's thinner.[/QUOTE] Are you missing the rubber stop adjusters? Generally there's some "knobs" on each side which help adjust the height of the hood on the sides while locked down to the hood latch. Maybe retrofitting a latch from a different vehicle with a heavy hood might help?
I painted my grille today and coated it with a protective enamel. It turned out quite good; a few spots that could've been better but I'm pleased with the results. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/RSUCy1N.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44247051]Are you missing the rubber stop adjusters? Generally there's some "knobs" on each side which help adjust the height of the hood on the sides while locked down to the hood latch. Maybe retrofitting a latch from a different vehicle with a heavy hood might help?[/QUOTE] The bump stop adjusters are there, and the hood is firmly seated on them. I've checked with playdoh on many different spots to see if it was kicking it up, but nothing. The hood latch on it now is heavy enough that the center of the hood stays down. The edges lift up like wings and the center stays firmly planted. IT actually lifts off the bumps stops. That side to side torquing is what worries me it would eventually free itself from the latch. I already set the pins. It was not as paintful as I had imagined. They look like they are supposed to be there, and negligible to the entire look of the car. It's kind of like a nipple piercing on the car I guess. It's like when I got my tongue pierced, hurt like a bitch for a second, but the ladies love it. Hopefully it's the same effect. I should get more ladies in theory. Oh and the hood is now held down like a muthafugga. It doesn't even move.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44248049]The bump stop adjusters are there, and the hood is firmly seated on them. I've checked with playdoh on many different spots to see if it was kicking it up, but nothing. The hood latch on it now is heavy enough that the center of the hood stays down. The edges lift up like wings and the center stays firmly planted. IT actually lifts off the bumps stops. That side to side torquing is what worries me it would eventually free itself from the latch. I already set the pins. It was not as paintful as I had imagined. They look like they are supposed to be there, and negligible to the entire look of the car. It's kind of like a nipple piercing on the car I guess. It's like when I got my tongue pierced, hurt like a bitch for a second, but the ladies love it. Hopefully it's the same effect. I should get more ladies in theory. Oh and the hood is now held down like a muthafugga. It doesn't even move.[/QUOTE] My Mustang did the same until I installed hood pins. Now it doesn't budge...
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44248326]My Mustang did the same until I installed hood pins. Now it doesn't budge...[/QUOTE] I actually prowled aaround a bunch of classic Mustang info and the hood pins were always the solution, so that was inspiration for this. I tried to line them up in such a way that they kind of mirrored the side markers on the fenders, and as such, they kind of disappear. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140315_152335_zps75a7e5c9.jpg[/IMG] You don't even really notice them from inside. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140315_163817_zps359beb75.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140315_163804_zpsbcccfb4a.jpg[/IMG]
I think it looks rather nice
I have to agree, you've done a really good job there.
I had to go with pins. My hood would start to flex at ~80mph, and got REALLY scary at ~130mph. Now, it's rock solid at all speeds... [URL=http://s603.photobucket.com/user/GAG11/media/C4E4AB8B-A2B7-41B8-9280-D61D4AA73A16_zpslvlkcfpc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/GAG11/C4E4AB8B-A2B7-41B8-9280-D61D4AA73A16_zpslvlkcfpc.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s603.photobucket.com/user/GAG11/media/E182A29A-4E8C-4233-9B5E-ABA35B9B1C77_zpswqb0bhfx.jpg.html][IMG]http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/GAG11/E182A29A-4E8C-4233-9B5E-ABA35B9B1C77_zpswqb0bhfx.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s603.photobucket.com/user/GAG11/media/CD2DBF08-44AE-4E43-A0B8-084F7CFCB092_zps8bdhit7a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/GAG11/CD2DBF08-44AE-4E43-A0B8-084F7CFCB092_zps8bdhit7a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Thanks guys. Took about 2 hours to adjust and do it correctly. I was not about to drill multiple large holes in the hood... Paint pen is your best friend on this job. On that stang, I'm digging the torsion lock type pins and the black bases. Looks nice. Your engine bay looks like it could benefit from my clear coat modification I posted a while back.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44249798]Thanks guys. Took about 2 hours to adjust and do it correctly. I was not about to drill multiple large holes in the hood... Paint pen is your best friend on this job. On that stang, I'm digging the torsion lock type pins and the black bases. Looks nice. Your engine bay looks like it could benefit from my clear coat modification I posted a while back.[/QUOTE] The part that made me the most nervous was drilling the holes in the hood for the pins, but I love the way it came out. They were $100 for them, but it was well worth it IMO. Did the pins help your hood flex problem? Also, the car is a WIP, so it's far from done....
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44249862]The part that made me the most nervous was drilling the holes in the hood for the pins, but I love the way it came out. They were $100 for them, but it was well worth it IMO. Did the pins help your hood flex problem? Also, the car is a WIP, so it's far from done....[/QUOTE] Yup, the flex is GONE. I adjusted the rods all the way down to where you have to hold your hand on the hood to mount the cotter so it's tight. It has literally solved all the shaking, and cooled everything down. I am impressed. I only spent $12.00 on mine. Simple hardware. I might want a set of cables for them as well so I don't lose them. The other thing I want to do is find a small padlock to go through one if I park it in undesirable locations, so no one swipes my battery or anything. My hood is accessible through the outside, unlike everyone elses... I was nervous with drilling it through the hood too... I used masking tape to keep the paint from chipping too bad, and a unibit to gradually increase the size till I was happy with where it rested. My pins are in the fenders. I have that slope in the front I did not want to put the pins on. I spent 20 minutes picking spots on the frame, then moving the pin guard on top until I found a suitable even position that made me happy. After I drilled the first hole I had a small lapse of "what the fuck have I done?!" but that was it.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44249957]Yup, the flex is GONE. I adjusted the rods all the way down to where you have to hold your hand on the hood to mount the cotter so it's tight. It has literally solved all the shaking, and cooled everything down. I am impressed. I only spent $12.00 on mine. Simple hardware. I might want a set of cables for them as well so I don't lose them. The other thing I want to do is find a small padlock to go through one if I park it in undesirable locations, so no one swipes my battery or anything. My hood is accessible through the outside, unlike everyone elses...[/QUOTE] I kept my latch on mine, so I have to pull the pins AND pull the latch lever from inside. It seems redundant, but it's a security measure IMO.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44249973]I kept my latch on mine, so I have to pull the pins AND pull the latch lever from inside. It seems redundant, but it's a security measure IMO.[/QUOTE] My latch is still there, but the release is on the outside. You lift up on the latch to the right of center, then the hood pops up an inch, then you pull the open release to the left of center. No cable from the inside, so you can access it all without a key.
Hosed off the 300c and changed the tranny and engine oil. Engine oil is great, underside of the car has no leaks, tranny fluid was over due (factory service says to do it at 100thou km, im at 155k). This car doesnt come with a dipstick which I thought was the stupidest thing so I went to the junkyard and got the longest one I could find (out of a k2500 van) and just shoved that in there for reference. [Thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/91DFBF81-3DCB-4C00-AFC8-A25812FDA711_zpsxqclhffv.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/C98E07A1-57CB-4C1D-A729-BC8E2042CEAF_zpsbrrlr6qk.jpg[/thumb] [editline]15th March 2014[/editline] [thumb]http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/universal_hood_pin_kitproducts464image_2.jpg[/thumb] These are the hood pins im gonna run on my dart
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Oeplvxl.jpg[/thumb] Just need to re-assemble now and order some last seals and rubber hoses.
Those are some dirty pistons
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;44252200][thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Oeplvxl.jpg[/thumb] Just need to re-assemble now and order some last seals and rubber hoses.[/QUOTE] That looks really good with the Nissan and Japan stampings not painted. Good job.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;44253342]That looks really good with the Nissan and Japan stampings not painted. Good job.[/QUOTE] And when all the hoses and stuff go on, just like the last block, you won't even know its blue. But heck yeah the detailing looks good.
[QUOTE=Del91;44252215]Those are some dirty pistons[/QUOTE] you aint seen shit till you see a race motor with leaky rings after ~half a season :v: Pistons are ~black~~~~~
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;44253342]That looks really good with the Nissan and Japan stampings not painted. Good job.[/QUOTE] bore some heads make ka24ve
Had to change the headlight bulbs (and fluid) on a ford focus 2003, my fingers hurt now.
Did you get synthetic blinker fluid?
Only the best!
Finally got around to replacing the D/S axle on the GTI. Its been clicking for about 2 years now and I've just been dealing with it. Used to only be on hard right turns at slow speed, but it recently started to get much worse. Took longer than I hoped to replace it, but its so nice to not have to deal with the constant clicking. After taking the axle off it turns out I was much closer to failure than I had thought. Both boots had failed by this point and the CV joint was fractured and pitted. Also waiting on suspension for BANNED USER's MR2. We already received both [URL="http://ultraracingaustralia.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=744"]front and rear[/URL] sways. They will be going in with the [URL="http://iapdirect.com/bc-racing-full-coilovers-90-99-toyota-mr2-sw20-sw21.html?&gclid=CPrlob2ImL0CFewRMwoduQcArg"]BCRacing[/URL] coilovers when they get in.
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