[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44283193]That's whats keeping me from replacing the stock 8" subs in my doors. I would need the subs AND a new amp to replace the factory one. I will get to it one day though. 2 8" subs could push out such clear mids-highlows....[/QUOTE]
Yeah...
Maybe it's because I don't understand how car audio works but I don't understand why I have to replace the amp to put functioning speakers in.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;44283365]Yeah...
Maybe it's because I don't understand how car audio works but I don't understand why I have to replace the amp to put functioning speakers in.[/QUOTE]
Well, it's a little confusing at first, but once you know how the system works, it becomes easy.
You ALWAYS want to find an amp to match the speaker, not the other way around. This allows you to put whatever speaker you want.
Speakers are on the receiving end. They will have 3 constant values: Peak wattage, RMS wattage, and Impedance (OHMS). Peak wattage is the maximum wattage they will handle, RMS wattage is the average wattage required for them to properly work, and impedance is how much the speaker hinders the flow of electricity through the system.
Amps have 2 values, which change. The wattage they put out CHANGES based on the impedance of the speaker it's hooked up to. So, my 500w amp might push 500w at 1ohm impedance, but that wattage will be slashed for each additional ohm of impedance. So even though it's a "500w amp", at 4 ohms, it may only push 200 watts.
WHY THIS IS IMPORTANT:
Amps aren't all stable down to 1 ohm. They aren't all designed for such a quick flow of electricity, and will overheat, sound quality will degrade, and they may even burn up.
Therefore, if you know what wattage your speakers require, and what impedance they are, you can find an amp that will push that wattage at that impedance. While the amp that powers my subs IS stable down to 1 ohm, the one my brother in law put in his truck to power his door speakers is only stable down to 2 ohms. So, while my amp could pus his speakers, his amp couldn't push mine.
If your factory amp is anything like the factory amp in my car, it was specifically designed to push their speakers. It's probably not going to be stable down to the correct impedance, or produce enough wattage to push any kind of aftermarket speaker reliably.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;44283052]I can't notice a difference, only that the stock unit made disabling bass very easy, but as far as I can tell I can't turn it completely off on this. The rear speakers are completely blown so there's a lot more buzzing from them with this unit. According to a sales rep from Crutchfield, I would have to bypass the monsoon amp to replace the speakers, and I'm not doing that.[/QUOTE]
If the rear's are blow, balance the sound only to the front?
Why would you ever want to disable bass?
[QUOTE=>VLN<;44283725]If the rear's are blow, balance the sound only to the front?
Why would you ever want to disable bass?[/QUOTE]
The driver side speaker only works when I turn to the right hard.
[editline]18th March 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44283671]~lots of really informative words~[/QUOTE]
Thanks, that clears a lot up :D
[QUOTE=>VLN<;44283725]If the rear's are blow, balance the sound only to the front?
Why would you ever want to disable bass?[/QUOTE]
I actually lower the bass levels on regular vehicles. Regular stock door speakers aren't designed to put out the clean bass notes in music, and usually end up distorting the highs and mids when they do produce "bass". Besides, once you've heard real bass, everything else is just a tease....
Got some control arms in the mail
hello
[img]https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10007063_735276699840572_1135530920_n.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;44283365]Yeah...
Maybe it's because I don't understand how car audio works but I don't understand why I have to replace the amp to put functioning speakers in.[/QUOTE]
SIKY in correct when it comes to matching up speakers/ subs with the proper amps, and how important it is.
In the case of your Firebird, since it's Monsoon, there's even deeper reasons behind this! The factory amp has something called 'crossovers' built into it, meaning that its output is bandwidth limited. A full range signal plays the full audio spectrum 20hz up to 20khz. Bandwidth limited cuts portions of that out. In the back you should have 'midrange' speakers, and 'subs', as they're called from the factory. The inputs for the amp from the radio you installed are full range, but inside the amp that fullrange gets amplified, as well as split in two. The midranges don't get bass, and the 'subs' don't get mids or highs. Thus if you replaced those 'subs' with nice fullrange coax speakers, they'd still only play bass. That's why bypassing or replacing the Monsoon amp with an aftermarket one that YOU tune is beneficial if you replace the speakers. Otherwise it's kind of a conglomeration of stuff doing what it's not supposed to do.
There's ways to integrate with an amp that splits the signals like that (I do it a lot in cheap Gandammits, etc) that includes snipping the wiring going to the tweeters on coax speakers and wiring up like two different speakers (so a total of 4 speaker wires, and all that), but for how much power the stock amp has vs. the aftermarket radio's power, it's generally beneficial to just give the factory amp the boot and bypass it (or as mentioned put a nice 4 channel amp in to really crank shit up).
I have an old and well sought PPI High Fidelity 4 channel amp I'm planning on installing soon. I tried to use it as a bass amp when I got it at first. Doesn't put out much bass at all even when turned up, so when I looked it up I found it to be an audiophiles treasure, at least kinda. If you going for high power door speakers, it's an amp to pass.
It's not an art series, is it???? :O
I was thinking about making a car audio selection guide to help users who don't know much about car audio choose the right equipment or ask questions, but idk if you guys allow guides like that in AA...
Some cock-sucking black cunt broke into two of the work cars overnight so I had to replace the windows he broke. The only thing he stole was my time and my boss's money replacing said windows incase you were wondering. I can see that replacing glass wouldn't be the funnest of jobs :\
[t]http://i.imgur.com/vfeCsyT.jpg[/t]
This is what the starter looked like on my s13 lol
The bearing went bad (I think) so it would chill up in with the flywheel and sounded like a tin can filled with bolts.
surprisingly enough it all went together well :)
So my gas gauge broke today, the actual mechanical part. Just messing around looking for a place to put aforementioned amp and listening to some tunes, turned key to "On" and noticed the gauge go from just under half tank to [I]OHMYGAWDSTHERESSOMUCHFUELIMGONNABURST[/i]...
So I tore my dash apart and pulled the cluster, pulled it apart and found one of the leads on it just... broke, like for no real reason. So now I've no idea how much fuel Ill have on next gas up.
But by some calculating from each fill depending on where I go 10 bux puts me from 1/4 to around 1/2. 15 bux it is for each gas up it seems till I can replace or retrofit something to tell me if I'm going to be walking or not.
Fixed the front brakes on the J20 today. What a bitch that was. Had to pull the right side caliper off, get the piston out, remove rust and the put the damn piston back in. Very fiddly to put the rubber on the piston before sliding it in but I found a technique for it and fixed it.
They seem to be fine now. Rear brakes are probably the next things me and my friend will fix.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44286820]I was thinking about making a car audio selection guide to help users who don't know much about car audio choose the right equipment or ask questions, but idk if you guys allow guides like that in AA...[/QUOTE]
I had that EXACT idea for the past few months. And didn't for the exact reason. I'd love to contribute my knowledge to the thread and make an extremely simple topic that seems to be thought of as complicated easy.
[QUOTE=masterwolf;44291822]I had that EXACT idea for the past few months. And didn't for the exact reason. I'd love to contribute my knowledge to the thread and make an extremely simple topic that seems to be thought of as complicated easy.[/QUOTE]
Well, I would understand that the mods don't want AA filled with a bunch of vehicle specific mod guides, but choosing the correct car audio/video is something that is very generic and can be used no matter what vehicle you have. And a LOT of the people on here could do the whole thing by themselves correctly, with the correct components easily.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44292284]Well, I would understand that the mods don't want AA filled with a bunch of vehicle specific mod guides, but choosing the correct car audio/video is something that is very generic and can be used no matter what vehicle you have. And a LOT of the people on here could do the whole thing by themselves correctly, with the correct components easily.[/QUOTE]
Go ahead and create a thread. Nobody is stopping you guys.
That would be very helpful.
Pm banneduser and ask, but I'm sure it'd be cool.
Why would it be an issue?
I'll go ahead and start working on it. If anyone wants to contribute or work with me on it, feel free to shoot me a PM or something.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44286820]I was thinking about making a car audio selection guide to help users who don't know much about car audio choose the right equipment or ask questions, but idk if you guys allow guides like that in AA...[/QUOTE]
I think that would only cause a shitstorm from people all over the interwebs. KICKER>DUAL! (even though they same company) Don't even get me started on all the audio rocks you guys aren't using. It's on the shelf next to the blinker fluid and elbow grease.
I think you'd be better off not suggesting a "Correct" way to do it, but a better idea would be to list what you have and be honest about what you think about each piece. For instance I bought some 6x9 speakers. They were Planet Audio. They were $30. They sounded weird. I can't really describe it, but they were weird... and sounded so metallic. I swapped to some $40 Kenwood's, did the trick. For some reason you can't go wrong with the $40 Kenwood or Pioneer combos. I usually buy the Pioneers in 6.5, cut the tweeter leads, and break the tweeter off, then get a second tweeter to go 6" away. That's a good cheap way to frankenstein some components if you were wondering.
I run 6x9 Kenwoods in the back, 6.5" Diamonds in the front, a 12" pioneer sub, and a Polk audio amplifier, with a Kenwood headunit. GET ON MY LEVEL! nothing matches...
ALSO! Best Buy MECP guy. Riddle me this: why are you guys no longer selling single DIN units with features I want with the damn USB in the BACK? what happened? I bought a new Kenwood unit sepcifically because it had HD radio, Blutooth, etc... built in, but the USB port has to be in the front so I have a damn wire draped out. Also I saw radios that were like $35. What happened to the earf while I was shopping on Amazon for years? I asked the guy there, and he said they were focusing on "convenience." I dismissed him as not knowing what the hell. Me and a 16 year old girl do not share the same idea of "convenient mp3 storage." My old radio was only a year old, had no CD player, and allowed blutooth streaming - only replaced it because it did not shuffle songs. I literally had to pick the next song I wanted or it would just say STOP.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44293893]I think that would only cause a shitstorm from people all over the interwebs. KICKER>DUAL! (even though they same company) Don't even get me started on all the audio rocks you guys aren't using. It's on the shelf next to the blinker fluid and elbow grease.
I think you'd be better off not suggesting a "Correct" way to do it, but a better idea would be to list what you have and be honest about what you think about each piece. For instance I bought some 6x9 speakers. They were Planet Audio. They were $30. They sounded weird. I can't really describe it, but they were weird... and sounded so metallic. I swapped to some $40 Kenwood's, did the trick. For some reason you can't go wrong with the $40 Kenwood or Pioneer combos. I usually buy the Pioneers in 6.5, cut the tweeter leads, and break the tweeter off, then get a second tweeter to go 6" away. That's a good cheap way to frankenstein some components if you were wondering.
I run 6x9 Kenwoods in the back, 6.5" Diamonds in the front, a 12" pioneer sub, and a Polk audio amplifier, with a Kenwood headunit. GET ON MY LEVEL! nothing matches...
ALSO! Best Buy MECP guy. Riddle me this: why are you guys no longer selling single DIN units with features I want with the damn USB in the BACK? what happened? I bought a new Kenwood unit sepcifically because it had HD radio, Blutooth, etc... built in, but the USB port has to be in the front so I have a damn wire draped out. Also I saw radios that were like $35. What happened to the earf while I was shopping on Amazon for years? I asked the guy there, and he said they were focusing on "convenience." I dismissed him as not knowing what the hell. Me and a 16 year old girl do not share the same idea of "convenient mp3 storage." My old radio was only a year old, had no CD player, and allowed blutooth streaming - only replaced it because it did not shuffle songs. I literally had to pick the next song I wanted or it would just say STOP.[/QUOTE]
Kicker is made by Stillwater designs, which was started in and still is an Oklahoma company. Dual is a subsidiary of the Namsung Corporation in Korea. They are not the same company. And I ALWAYS use high performance audio rocks!
Also, [url]http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-X8600BH[/url]
Looks like exactly what you're looking for.
But nothing would be vehicle or product specific except for examples. Just something to help people be more informed about the often overlooked aspects or common misconceptions when trying to choose audio equipment. It would also be a great place for Q&A and a place for people to post their setups.
I thought dual was based out of Florida at some point? It started in Germany. Where was it that I heard kicker was owned by dual... I'll find out what I was thinking of. Lol
[QUOTE=Serj22;44293893]I think that would only cause a shitstorm from people all over the interwebs. KICKER>DUAL! (even though they same company) Don't even get me started on all the audio rocks you guys aren't using. It's on the shelf next to the blinker fluid and elbow grease.
I think you'd be better off not suggesting a "Correct" way to do it, but a better idea would be to list what you have and be honest about what you think about each piece. For instance I bought some 6x9 speakers. They were Planet Audio. They were $30. They sounded weird. I can't really describe it, but they were weird... and sounded so metallic. I swapped to some $40 Kenwood's, did the trick. For some reason you can't go wrong with the $40 Kenwood or Pioneer combos. I usually buy the Pioneers in 6.5, cut the tweeter leads, and break the tweeter off, then get a second tweeter to go 6" away. That's a good cheap way to frankenstein some components if you were wondering.
I run 6x9 Kenwoods in the back, 6.5" Diamonds in the front, a 12" pioneer sub, and a Polk audio amplifier, with a Kenwood headunit. GET ON MY LEVEL! nothing matches...
ALSO! Best Buy MECP guy. Riddle me this: why are you guys no longer selling single DIN units with features I want with the damn USB in the BACK? what happened? I bought a new Kenwood unit sepcifically because it had HD radio, Blutooth, etc... built in, but the USB port has to be in the front so I have a damn wire draped out. Also I saw radios that were like $35. What happened to the earf while I was shopping on Amazon for years? I asked the guy there, and he said they were focusing on "convenience." I dismissed him as not knowing what the hell. Me and a 16 year old girl do not share the same idea of "convenient mp3 storage." My old radio was only a year old, had no CD player, and allowed blutooth streaming - only replaced it because it did not shuffle songs. I literally had to pick the next song I wanted or it would just say STOP.[/QUOTE]
Diamond is sweet.
At any rate.. I'm on that same level with rear USB/ Aux inputs. One of the most important features to me when I bought my radio (Kenwood 952BT) was the rear aux and rear USB. Like you said, having them in the front is taaaacky. I do think convenience is a big part of it, like the dude mentioned... most people who buy a $100 radio aren't worried about a clean dash or buying extra cables to flush-mount female inputs elsewhere (that's not to say there aren't people like that, though!). I feel like that's why as you crest into the $200 range you start to see units that DO feature that kind of thing (like the 8000 series Pioneer above). It's more work for install that might turn a DIYer off, and if you're looking at a unit on display and only see the aux (or nothing if both are on back) that may mean it gets glanced right over if someone's not right there explaining it and holding the customer's hand. So, basically blame THAT trend on the lazyness/stupidity of your average person.
Also, on the Bestbuy front, we have different 'levels' of stores. Many a tiny and only feature a entry/mid level selection of products... AKA no component speakers, no single DIN units over $150 (aka no nice fancies), amps up to 500w, etc. This is my store, since I'm in a small community, and it's as infuriating to me as it is to you. I would shoot a child (a bad one only, like a troublemaker) to get a couple sets of components in store because I could make sooooo many packages so much easier with them (Alpine Kenwood and Polk please!). Let's not forget that Polk was at one point a huge seller in my store before the product squeeze..... now we have 6.5" Polks in store. That's it. No 6x9 Polks, no component Polks, etc. Gotta order a lotttt of stuff in.
Ah well.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44294466]Kicker is made by Stillwater designs, which was started in and still is an Oklahoma company.[/QUOTE]
Fun story, an old CRX I once owned ended up being a promotional car for Kicker. They hired some young girl graffiti artist to do all sorts of artwork all over the car, I saw it for sale on craigslist long after that.
It was kind of sweet but had no direction at all so it just looked a mess. Neat though.
So yeah, last night after I went and got a Sunpro fuel gauge to temporarily replace my stock one till I can get a replacement, I get most everything beck together and the car wont start, won't start like the timing belt snapped or jumped a tooth or 10. Pissed and ready to burn the car down I decided to crank it anyway because it kept trying to start. Eventually it did and never threw a code or anything, ok, a fluke but what was that wire burning smell? Whatever it was it didn't come back.
Now today JUST after I get done welding (poorly but solidly) a friends muffler back together (a first for me, welding that is) I got to move my car back to it's spot and RUN MY GOD DAMMNED PHONE OVER.
After yelling FUCK at a volume at which could wake the dead I back up some more throw it in park and get the phone, holy shit it still works, smashed digitizer but it works. LG motion: Survivor.
What the hell...
To clarify: I set my phone on my tire while I was welding the muffler, I happend to be sitting next to the car at the time.
Trying to find a decent muffler for my car but the opening on the car is kinda small so if I wanted dual piping, I would have to pay more at the place I want to get it done at. Or I could get this, but I am not sure. [IMG]https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BjMdp9uCMAAU9a5.jpg[/IMG]
It fits perfectly in the opening but I am just not sure whether or not I want this or dual tail pipes. What do you guys think?
Finally time to put these on
[img]https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/1978820_736139083087667_831169834_n.jpg[/img]
bye bye, stamped steel control arms
you've been terrible
[QUOTE=Whitesinner0;44302085]Trying to find a decent muffler for my car but the opening on the car is kinda small so if I wanted dual piping, I would have to pay more at the place I want to get it done at. Or I could get this, but I am not sure. [IMG]https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BjMdp9uCMAAU9a5.jpg[/IMG]
It fits perfectly in the opening but I am just not sure whether or not I want this or dual tail pipes. What do you guys think?[/QUOTE]
I thought your bimmer was dual out one side?
thems for a Honda? What did they cost ya?
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