Found a tractor light in the shed, installed it on my rollbar yo. (aka sat it on there for a picture and have no idea what to do with a single light)
[t]https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t35.0-12/10009943_10152699272563154_1859205956_o.jpg?oh=0d23ba90ff6ee77dd8cda33fdc31b10e&oe=5343977F[/t]
For srs modo though, we thought the golf cart at work was fucked, awful clicking sound from the front wheel when in motion.
Jacked it up to poke things and found that when the dickhead who used to work there changed the tire he didn't tighten the lugs.. like at all. they were all un-threaded about 1/4'', tightened them up and shes all ready for storage lot tofu runs again.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;44472728]Found a tractor light in the shed, installed it on my rollbar yo. (aka sat it on there for a picture and have no idea what to do with a single light)
[t]https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t35.0-12/10009943_10152699272563154_1859205956_o.jpg?oh=0d23ba90ff6ee77dd8cda33fdc31b10e&oe=5343977F[/t][/QUOTE]
Drill a hole through the driver's side a-pillar, buy an oldschool mechanical mirror control and mount the toggle inside, remove the mirror part, install the spotlight instead in its place attached to the mirror bracket, and screw it to the outside of the A-pillar. Searchlight.OR mount it in the center of the rollbar, facing backwards and down - bedlight.
Or better yet. Mount one of these upside down above the roof rack.
[t]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41U4A0pqCBL._SY300_.jpg[/t]
(Mount upside down because allot more motion to see whats 3ft in front of you instead of in outer space)
[editline]fgjhngh[/editline]
Oh shit. Just watched a vid of the newer ones in operation.
I remember the old ones having only a few degrees of downward motion and lots of upwards... Now it looks like it has LOTS of down and same amount of up.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;44472503]Unless they've updated it, it's running an incredibly old version of android.
I nearly bought one but went down the route of using my Android phone with Bluetooth. Which works great given I have unlimited data, internet radio is great.
It's not so much that having the latest version is important. To me, the fact that it's running an Android version that's 2-3 Major revisions (At least one of their models is running android [b]1.5[/b]) behind says that either the hardware is underpowered or they just aren't committed to the software side of things. Though I'm sure the homebrew community could take up the slack in that respect, we shouldn't be expected to.
As far as other options for "Non flashy head units" the JVC AVX units spring to mind:
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/286964/jvc_kd_avx40_head_unit1.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Unless things have changed Parrot's Asteroid stereos are suuuuuper buggy and frustrating to no end.If anyone's looking to pick one up read lots and lots of reviews and think long and hard.
That JVC AVX is frustrating, too. It's like the new Ford BS buttons in the fact that those 'buttons' aren't actually mechanical. To turn the volume up you swipe your finger along that white circle, and it doesn't work super great. Normal old touchscreens are much better, still.
That being said it does look nice. Basically completely black when turned off.
Let's not forget this sweet headunit by JVC
[img]http://www.caraudio4less.co.uk/images/KD-AVX77.jpg[/img]
Turns off black, too. I loved this thing, the JVC AVX77
My day off today was neat..60* and sunny! My friend and I impulse went to JoAnn fabrics and got some goodies. Black velvet for his headliner in a gen2 Eclipse, and for the door cards in my JDrizM. I bought some weird black fabric full of sparkles for the headliner on my little car, too.
Then we went back to my place and he pulled his headliner out while I built a sub box for 2 8" Kicker L7s that are going in a gen3 Eclipse convertible later this week. That was neat.
In the meantime he got his headliner done up, and I after I finished the box I started to gut my car to drop the headliner.
Used some really nice spray paint on all the little grey bits and pieces to turn them black, too.
And then it was dark and there was just the sunshade slider left in the Eclipse.. and I managed to close the sunroof on his phone when I was helping him put them back in, which jammed it up when the motor slipped, and then I spent the next hour taking out the sunroof motor and glass, then manually sliding the sunroof mechanisms a few times to sync them back up before reassembly.
Tomorrow I get to do my headliner!.. and who knows what else.
Busted ass and got the civic back together.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-06%2012.27.02.jpg[/t]
Pushed it outside, put the radiator in and filled it.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-06%2014.15.23.jpg[/t]
Started up, ran like shit in limp mode. Turned it off, it dumped fuel out of the primary injector and hydrolocked. Messed with it some, unplugged the injectors and got it to turn over again. Pushed it out in a better spot and left it.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-06%2018.57.17.jpg[/t]
I'll test the injectors at some point but I'll wait until my valve adjustment tool and injector seal kits get here and try again.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;44472503]Unless they've updated it, it's running an incredibly old version of android.
I nearly bought one but went down the route of using my Android phone with Bluetooth. Which works great given I have unlimited data, internet radio is great.
It's not so much that having the latest version is important. To me, the fact that it's running an Android version that's 2-3 Major revisions (At least one of their models is running android [b]1.5[/b]) behind says that either the hardware is underpowered or they just aren't committed to the software side of things. Though I'm sure the homebrew community could take up the slack in that respect, we shouldn't be expected to.
As far as other options for "Non flashy head units" the JVC AVX units spring to mind:
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/286964/jvc_kd_avx40_head_unit1.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
If you really want an Android headunit, you could buy a Nexus 7 and mod that in. I've seen at least one person do it on the YouTubes.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44475727]Busted ass and got the civic back together.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-06%2012.27.02.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Such a satisfying sight. S13 is almost done too; give me a bit
I had a lot of fun changing my cylinder head after walmart crushed my turbo dreams. While it was sorta nerve wrecking because i'd never done it before and was learning by myself, it was super bad ass when it fire right up afterwards.
I can't really be mad at walmart, because the civic already had a weeping head gasket, and i was gonna have to change that anyways. Basically Walmart reimbursed me for all of the money i put into my turbo setup the first time, which i wanted a do over on anyways. Instead i'm gonna do-over it after i get my dream ride. Then i'm gonna get the dream turbo setup. LSD.. built internals.. stand-alone ECU.. turbo.. arrrgh!
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;44478785]Such a satisfying sight. S13 is almost done too; give me a bit[/QUOTE]
It's sort of for me but it's really still up in the air if the headgasket is going to work or not. I couldn't get the block surface clean and he headbolts had already been torqed at least twice. It's killing me to not know if I'm gonna have to tear it all apart again or rip the motor out.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44480173]It's sort of for me but it's really still up in the air if the headgasket is going to work or not. I couldn't get the block surface clean and he headbolts had already been torqed at least twice. It's killing me to not know if I'm gonna have to tear it all apart again or rip the motor out.[/QUOTE]
Shoukd be ok. Nissan guys do two or three times.
You didn't fully clean the gasket surface and buy new headbolts?? Come on man....
[QUOTE=clutch2;44483577]You didn't fully clean the gasket surface and buy new headbolts?? Come on man....[/QUOTE]
Honestly, I tried everything and the shitty composite gasket material wouldn't come off. I took a brass brush to it and cleaned it until it was smooth to my hands. I made sure to clean it of any oils and used copper gasket spray just in case. Headbolts weren't in stock locally so I just bought a new torque wrench and torqued it to spec.
I had the head hot tanked and surfaced though.
Next time you do a gasket try this thing:
[img]http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/507263261/90_Degree_Air_Angle_Die_Grinder.jpg[/img]
And these:
[img]http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/th/content_26/Q1_2010/ing-rang_ASIN-B000DZGMOA_3-L.jpg[/img]
Works great!! I used em for headgaskets, differential pumpkin cover gaskets, transmission pan gaskets, intake gaskets.. you name it, it'll buzz the stuff off and leave a good surface, if you chose the right disc 'grit'
I've read and heard the most horrible things about scotchbrite pads. The reason they are abrasive in the first place is because of the aluminum oxide particles in them. A buddy of mine lost his S2000 motor to improperly cleaned sand/bead after having his valve cover powder coated. I'd sooner pull the motor and have it surfaced properly or just build a motor and swap it.
I tried to source a bristle disk locally but no one sold them.
[t]http://www.autolackprofi.com/shop/images/wolfgang/46433Z.jpg[/t]
Those are nice, too. internet-o order them!
[editline]Argh[/editline]
FML. Car will not fire up at all. It cranks but no go. Has gas but maybe not spark. Will have to check distributor teeth later. SO CLOSE!
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/lXAbQVR.jpg[/thumb]
tires were rubbing my wheel wells real bad, just trimmed them down today. what kind of cold air kits do you guys recommend?
A real one.
Let me separate the difference for me anyways. Tell me if I'm wrong.
Cold Air.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/found%20non%20vws/Stillen_Gen3UltraLongIntake_350Z.JPG[/t]
Hot Air. Wrongish
[t]http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-2010-v6-mustang-tech/30434d1184699360-steeda-cold-air-intake-questions-2005-v6-img_0621.jpg[/t]
Hot Air. DONE RIGHT.
[t]http://nycperformancetuning.com/images/intakes/Roto%20Fab/G8/Cold%20Air%20Intake.jpeg[/t]
1 and 3 are endgame. [del]2 is honda game.[/del] Brad no like this statement.
[editline]9th April 2014[/editline]
It has also been proven that getting a cold air intake for your car is a hit and miss. Some times the OEM air box is 100% capable of being just as good with only a K&N drop in filter or a new filter in general.
Annnnnd some might bitch and moan about how using a k&n is bad for your engine because of all the "cleaning" oils getting inside your engine.
Most stock air boxes end up being better than any "cold air intake".
You guys remember like 1-2 years ago when that dude from yurop posted his ricey chavmobile and he had like a funnel on his intake tube to 'speed up the air'?
K&N filter oil is bad for engines who have MAF sensors.
Most of the time, real cold air are useless if you aren't tuned for it or if your IAT is still at the same place.
Hot air intakes with or without a shield doesn't change much, ecen less so on boosted cars, as the air gets super heated when it hits the snail or the blower. On cars like mine, the most efficient intake for both economy and power, dyno proven by many, is the simplest cone slapped on the TB or the MAF if it's external.
A 45$ DIY intake will work the same as a 300$ one, dot on the line.
I'm running a cone filter because of space restrictions and because of sound. I am not running it for performance gain. But I do have a very large and efficient intercooler anyways so the fact I am running an intake like that should not make a difference.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/z8mm2p2l.jpg[/img]
[IMG_thumb]https://24.media.tumblr.com/bdc0d34dcc43f44a4354ca98bf2cf760/tumblr_n0i3v4SWMw1sffvuqo1_1280.png[/IMG_thumb]
ITB's or bust.
Added a [URL="http://www.ultraracing.my/catalog/index.php?id_product=2946&controller=product"]rear strut/frame brace[/URL] to BANNEDUSERS two. Gotta say I'm really impressed with the quality and fitment of the UR parts we have installed so far.
There are a few braces around the engine bay that were missing when we bought the car. This replaces the two upper engine bay braces that were missing.
BANNEDUSER painted it gold b/c the white was clashing with the red/gold Iron Man thing he has going on.
This freaking engine still won't fire even when I rotated the dizzy 180*.
I might spin the crank a couple more times and see if I can re-stab it again. Need the weather to cool down and get another hand so I can do it easier
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;44497314]You guys remember like 1-2 years ago when that dude from yurop posted his ricey chavmobile and he had like a funnel on his intake tube to 'speed up the air'?[/QUOTE]
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velocity_stack[/url]
?
[QUOTE=DPKiller;44495386]A real one.
Let me separate the difference for me anyways. Tell me if I'm wrong.
Cold Air.
Hot Air. Wrongish
[t]http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-2010-v6-mustang-tech/30434d1184699360-steeda-cold-air-intake-questions-2005-v6-img_0621.jpg[/t]
Hot Air. DONE RIGHT.
1 and 3 are endgame. [del]2 is honda game.[/del] Brad no like this statement.
[editline]9th April 2014[/editline]
It has also been proven that getting a cold air intake for your car is a hit and miss. Some times the OEM air box is 100% capable of being just as good with only a K&N drop in filter or a new filter in general.
Annnnnd some might bitch and moan about how using a k&n is bad for your engine because of all the "cleaning" oils getting inside your engine.[/QUOTE]
Often you can remove the massive resonator box which is actually the restrictive part and turn your stock airbox into a true cold air intake for near free.
[t]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FRVEmaoF4Pg/Um6hD_DoVsI/AAAAAAAAAm4/SMJyUCfBcgc/s1600/ITR+cold+air+box+mod.mp4_snapshot_00.08_%255B2013.10.28_18.36.30%255D.jpg[/t]
[t]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/bretq/2006_09230018.jpg[/t]
Short Ram Intakes generally make a really nice noise though and through increasing IAT's at the trade off of 1-2hp can increase gas milage slightly as well by 0.25-1mpg too. They are really far from the devil of car mods, it's just not really beneficial to anything but extra noise.
[editline]9th April 2014[/editline]
Tested the injectors today and they were within spec of ohms. Decided to tuck the throttle cable a little differently.
Here's when I got it.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-03-24%2012.24.29.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-03-24%2012.24.41.jpg[/t]
Here's it sitting, but I haven't even really started trying to tuck the little things or the passenger side.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-09%2019.23.40.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-09%2019.23.56.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-09%2019.24.29.jpg[/t]
I've got the resonator pulled out of the intake tube on my truck which sucks in air from the fender, but I've got the lid flipped on the intake exposing the filter like a short ram. Sounds boss as fuck.
But again, I've seen the dyno sheets from a truck with more mods than mine(stock) using a CAI, stock intake and an open throttle body. There's MAYBE 1hp difference. It's all about that sound.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44504190][url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velocity_stack[/url]
?
[/QUOTE]
na, he had a stock airbox with a conical piece of plastic on the front of it, not an actual cone on a TB.
The feel when you realized your timing chain skipped a tooth or two and now you have to disassemble everything just to fix the preventable mistake you've made.
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