At the tire shop getting an alignment. There was a slight rub when I turned all the way to the left after getting my new tires.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;44511566]The feel when you realized your timing chain skipped a tooth or two and now you have to disassemble everything just to fix the preventable mistake you've made.[/QUOTE]
Sorry to hear that bud, at least you know what it is.
Got an alignment done by my friend, he said my camber and toe were way off :rolleyes:
Feels noticeably better now.
He also went through and checked my front suspension, no issues there thankfully.
[QUOTE=Del91;44512214]At the tire shop getting an alignment. There was a slight rub when I turned all the way to the left after getting my new tires.[/QUOTE]
I noticed my right front has lost some air again, there's still some tread and I'm just down all around the wear bar. I really want to get another 2-3k out of these tires since it's hardly been 20k since I fucking got them. I just eat through tires, definitely just biting the bullet and getting higher treadwear tires since I'm on my 3rd set in the 50k I've owned the damn car.
Going with Eagle Sports this time since it's Goodyear's new mid level All Season with a 560 treadwear compared to my old Eagle GT's which have a 440. Supposedly it's an overall better tire while having a better treadwear as well while still at the same price point. Supposedly it's not a snow tire according to user reviews, which is pretty given due to it's a damn all season. However, I won't be driving this in serious snow anyways.
[url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+Sport+All-Season+(V-Speed+Rated)[/url]
[url]http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Reviews/fr/Review-Goodyear-Eagle-Sport-All-Season.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2013/06/goodyear-introduces-new-performance-all-season-tire.html[/url]
Maybe someone can help me with some rust repair on my Miata. I've removed the fender and I'm not really sure what to do from here, except remove the rust with a grinder and re-paint it. Any tips for the rust on the body? Especially with the rust under the drivers side door.
I had a co-worker suggest hitting the rust under the door with some rust converter and then just applying touch up paint to the affected areas
Here is where I assembled pictures and such, apologies in advance for the blurry ass pictures
[url]http://miatabuildblog.tumblr.com/[/url]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44514427]I noticed my right front has lost some air again, there's still some tread and I'm just down all around the wear bar. I really want to get another 2-3k out of these tires since it's hardly been 20k since I fucking got them. I just eat through tires, definitely just biting the bullet and getting higher treadwear tires since I'm on my 3rd set in the 50k I've owned the damn car.
Going with Eagle Sports this time since it's Goodyear's new mid level All Season with a 560 treadwear compared to my old Eagle GT's which have a 440. Supposedly it's an overall better tire while having a better treadwear as well while still at the same price point. Supposedly it's not a snow tire according to user reviews, which is pretty given due to it's a damn all season. However, I won't be driving this in serious snow anyways.
[url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+Sport+All-Season+(V-Speed+Rated)[/url]
[url]http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Reviews/fr/Review-Goodyear-Eagle-Sport-All-Season.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2013/06/goodyear-introduces-new-performance-all-season-tire.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Have you had your alignment checked? Even if it's off by a small small degree it can cause you to chew through tires like taffy. My right front is being eaten pretty bad too and I know my alignment is off.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44515272]Have you had your alignment checked? Even if it's off by a small small degree it can cause you to chew through tires like taffy. My right front is being eaten pretty bad too and I know my alignment is off.[/QUOTE]
I just had an alignment around christmas when I did inner and outer tie rods and upper ball joints. Everything is solid except I have some caster but it's within spec. I've always kept my alignment good and tires balanced. I could probably use LCA and compliance bushings but my car has 150k and it's always ate tires similarly. Honestly, it's mostly because of my driving I would assume but I know other people who drive similarly and don't wear up tires as bad. Wear is pretty typical of a FWD car and not significantly biased either.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44514427]I noticed my right front has lost some air again, there's still some tread and I'm just down all around the wear bar. I really want to get another 2-3k out of these tires since it's hardly been 20k since I fucking got them. I just eat through tires, definitely just biting the bullet and getting higher treadwear tires since I'm on my 3rd set in the 50k I've owned the damn car.
Going with Eagle Sports this time since it's Goodyear's new mid level All Season with a 560 treadwear compared to my old Eagle GT's which have a 440. Supposedly it's an overall better tire while having a better treadwear as well while still at the same price point. Supposedly it's not a snow tire according to user reviews, which is pretty given due to it's a damn all season. However, I won't be driving this in serious snow anyways.
[url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+Sport+All-Season+(V-Speed+Rated)[/url]
[url]http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Reviews/fr/Review-Goodyear-Eagle-Sport-All-Season.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2013/06/goodyear-introduces-new-performance-all-season-tire.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Is the tire itself the reason? Let me explain a bit:
My buddy used to get used tires from the flea market put on his mustang gt because he didn't want to shell out for expensive tires on a car that's easy to break traction and burn tires. He ended up needing new rear tires like at least once a month IIRC.
He finally bit the bullet and bought a set of Nitto NT555 extreme performance summer tires. These things have a tread wear of only 400, so you would think he needed to replace them more often right? Wrong.
Putting high performance/stickier tires actually helped him keep traction a LOT more, and he found that he was getting actually more mileage than suggested off of them.
It's not just about a tread-wear rating. It's about also finding the right tire for your driving style....
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44516908]Is the tire itself the reason? Let me explain a bit:
My buddy used to get used tires from the flea market put on his mustang gt because he didn't want to shell out for expensive tires on a car that's easy to break traction and burn tires. He ended up needing new rear tires like at least once a month IIRC.
He finally bit the bullet and bought a set of Nitto NT555 extreme performance summer tires. These things have a tread wear of only 400, so you would think he needed to replace them more often right? Wrong..
Putting high performance/stickier tires actually helped him keep traction a LOT more, and he found that he was getting actually more mileage than suggested off of them.[/QUOTE] are you sure it is 400?
my stock bridgestone traunza el400 were 300 treadwear, got 42kmiles out of them. potenzas that came on a tc we had were 180 treeadwear got close to 30kmiles..
the proxies r888 i had on my lexus were just 100. got about 8000miles out of them, but they were on spare rims.
no matter what the mileage rating for a tire is, i seem to get about 10-12k for every 100 treadwear grade.
but here read
[url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48[/url]
It's not just about a tread-wear rating. It's about also finding the right tire for your driving style...
Working on it later today but, I'm replacing the hinge pins in my driver side door along with replacing the door panels. This is gonna be fun! :suicide:
Oh look, a new battery!
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tWOHuqr.jpg[/t]
Ordered it yesterday, came yesterday. Benz does have some good shipping of parts.
Going from 420 CCA, which wasn't really enough juice on cold starts, to 800 CCA which hopefully should be enough on cold starts. Going to fit it tomorrow if the weather is good, gotta test if it all works.
12v 80ah 800A
the battery in the 7 is 1200CCA
many
[QUOTE=EagleEye;44514465]Maybe someone can help me with some rust repair on my Miata. I've removed the fender and I'm not really sure what to do from here, except remove the rust with a grinder and re-paint it. Any tips for the rust on the body? Especially with the rust under the drivers side door.
I had a co-worker suggest hitting the rust under the door with some rust converter and then just applying touch up paint to the affected areas
Here is where I assembled pictures and such, apologies in advance for the blurry ass pictures
[url]http://miatabuildblog.tumblr.com/[/url][/QUOTE]
You're in luck!!!!
Most of that looks like it's surface and not 'through' the metal.
The only part that look's questionable is this:
[url]http://24.media.tumblr.com/b4cd8e762332c68603f646192a480ab2/tumblr_n3uks49ChA1tysq74o7_1280.jpg[/url]
But either way, bust out the wire wheel on a grinder and tear into it. Buzz into it until it's down to shiny metal again, no more rust, and not more weird blackish color of oxidized metal that's below rust if it's bad. Once it's all bright and shiny silver hit it with some brush on POR15 rust encapsulator paint in the areas you WONT see, and then paint over it if you'd like it to match.
In the areas where it IS going to visible, hit it with some spray on rust encapsulator (you can shoot Por15 from a gun, if you wish) so it's a nice finish, then paint as you see fit.
But yea, catching it now you should have an easy repair so that it won't get worse on down the line.
If it IS through the metal you'll have to cut out the rotten chunks and weld in new bits if it's visible/structural.. otherwise if it's not visible and you don't care, just cut out the rotten chunks and POR15 the surrounding areas to be safe.
[QUOTE=thattaco;44518593]are you sure it is 400?
my stock bridgestone traunza el400 were 300 treadwear, got 42kmiles out of them. potenzas that came on a tc we had were 180 treeadwear got close to 30kmiles..
the proxies r888 i had on my lexus were just 100. got about 8000miles out of them, but they were on spare rims.
no matter what the mileage rating for a tire is, i seem to get about 10-12k for every 100 treadwear grade.
but here read
[url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48[/url]
It's not just about a tread-wear rating. It's about also finding the right tire for your driving style...[/QUOTE]
My bad, they are 300 treadwear with traction and temp rated A. I was typing that on my phone.
Sunpro fuel gauge out, new/old fuel gauge in. All back to normal and ohgodimlowongas...
I might've left it in if it were not the wrong ohms and the ugly ass hole in the cluster.
But I did get some nice green lights to replace some of the blown ones, OCD doom and nothing could be done prior.
Finally finished installing the door hinge pins and door panels on my S10, the panels and pins were the easy part, but god damn that door spring was a bitch.
[QUOTE=Jackpody;44520481]Oh look, a new battery!
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tWOHuqr.jpg[/t]
Ordered it yesterday, came yesterday. Benz does have some good shipping of parts.
Going from 420 CCA, which wasn't really enough juice on cold starts, to 800 CCA which hopefully should be enough on cold starts. Going to fit it tomorrow if the weather is good, gotta test if it all works.
12v 80ah 800A[/QUOTE]
You and your damn expensive MB batteries you privileged bastard...
I installed the back glass in my merc.
4 fucking hrs of getting the seal on and getting it to fit.
I gave 0 fucks and did not hook up the defroster and left the chrome trim off.
At one point the top of the windshield had a 1/4 inch gap inbetween the seal and frame, told friend to hop onto the trunk and to apply pressure... What does he do? KNEE'S IT. Totally fine by me if it works it works.
REMIND ME TO NEVER TO THAT AGAIN
Fucking prick ass window
I then promptly ejected it out into the yard because now it wont leak. :v:
Found my fueling issue...
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-11%2013.38.53.jpg[/t]
Got my seals today(takes 5 days to be shipped 1000 miles..), put them in, did a valve adjustment, cleaned up the airbox and changed the oil again to remove the 1/2 qt of gas that was pushed into the crankcase because of the former image.
Fired it up and dear god it smoked like hell, fiddled with the dizzy since I don't have a timing gun on hand and ran it until it stopped smoking for about 30 minutes while bleeding coolant. Took it down and put some more gas in it and the gauge works perfectly even too. Sadly it seems that the valve stem seals and rings are worn even though it's only been 159k. It smokes some while driving but not significant enough yet.
However, it runs and it fucking runs pretty good! Put about 10-20 miles on it and everything seems solid. Alignment is just a tiny bit off and the tires need to be balanced. So far I'm in about $700 and just have tags and title transfer to go and it'll be all set to drive anywhere.
I'll paint up the exhaust heat shield and take some finished pictures tomorrow!
I put my new rear sway bar on.
It totally pwns.
This is hands down the best bang for buck upgrade i have ever done to my car. It turned my sloppy civic into a tripodding monster, it under-steers so much less now.
The best part is, it only cost $40.
why is it that every time I hear "X electrical thing doesn't work" in a ford it's because a meth'd up monkey got a hold of the electrical tape and went to town.
'91 ford tempo multifunction switch wasn't working so I pop the steering column/kick panel to look at the wiring what do I find?
A. the equivalent of two rolls of electrical tape?
B. Wire that may of once belonged to a lamp and or toaster?
C. 15 wire nuts covered in electrical tape?
D. wires that lead to nowhere/poorly terminated wires?
E. ALL OF THE ABOVE!!.....
If you guessed E you would be correct I shook my damn head and went lol nope i'm surprised the goddamn thing still starts.....
[QUOTE=PandaJuggernaut;44524323]why is it that every time I hear "X electrical thing doesn't work" in a ford it's because a meth'd up monkey got a hold of the electrical tape and went to town.
'91 ford tempo multifunction switch wasn't working so I pop the steering column/kick panel to look at the wiring what do I find?
A. the equivalent of two rolls of electrical tape?
B. Wire that may of once belonged to a lamp and or toaster?
C. 15 wire nuts covered in electrical tape?
D. wires that lead to nowhere/poorly terminated wires?
E. ALL OF THE ABOVE!!.....
If you guessed E you would be correct I shook my damn head and went lol nope i'm surprised the goddamn thing still starts.....[/QUOTE]
My favorite is using power cords for speakers/amp/CB/electric heater because cracked heater core. The second I see AC power cords chopped up for use in a car, I just tell the owner to run it into the ground, pull the wheels off and scrap it.
Here's a shitty comparison picture
Before:
[t]http://i57.tinypic.com/6ih3c2.jpg[/t]
After:
[t]http://i62.tinypic.com/kei16r.jpg[/t]
Painted red for +25kw
I'd say the 19mm rsx sway bar is a good balance between ride comfort and handling. As far as ride is concerned, i can't really notice a difference. It seems a little bumpier on the really crap roads, but nothing like my friends EM2 with a 23mm sway bar.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44524389]My favorite is using power cords for speakers/amp/CB/electric heater because cracked heater core. The second I see AC power cords chopped up for use in a car, I just tell the owner to run it into the ground, pull the wheels off and scrap it.[/QUOTE]
that would usually be my suggestion but the owner of this car is stupid/oblivious (basically the car is a powered wrecking ball cause he's a shit driver) so most of the rear body panels are gone there's no rear bumper and the front quarter panels are made out of bubblegum and hope it would cost more to tow it to a scrapyard then he'd get for the car
[QUOTE=Jackpody;44520481]Oh look, a new battery!
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tWOHuqr.jpg[/t]
Ordered it yesterday, came yesterday. Benz does have some good shipping of parts.
Going from 420 CCA, which wasn't really enough juice on cold starts, to 800 CCA which hopefully should be enough on cold starts. Going to fit it tomorrow if the weather is good, gotta test if it all works.
12v 80ah 800A[/QUOTE]
Installed, had to cut out a bit of the frame the battery goes into, else the top would hit. Does start now, however!
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jdejtlb6C7I[/media]
[editline]edit[/editline]
fuck, the immobilizer won't work now, it isn't turning back on :v:
Don't you just like quick and easy fixes?
My brother came back on leave in that Citroen Xsara Picasso I gave him. He tells me the speedometer isn't working. I know the speedo uses the same circuit as the reversing lights so I check them... They don't work.
Easy peasy 5A fuse replacey.
Meanwhile I've been righting the wrongs the previous owner did to my car. There was an entire piece of trim that looked completely misaligned. Rather than carefully lining up the friction clips that hold various parts on he'd just mashed it on somewhere close and put the screws in, bending said clips in the process. Luckily they had enough strength left in them to bend them back and replace the trim correctly.
Next up I'm going to inspect these towing electrics. I'm fearing the worst, wrapped wires and electrical tape.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;44524405]Here's a shitty comparison picture
Before:
[t]http://i57.tinypic.com/6ih3c2.jpg[/t]
After:
[t]http://i62.tinypic.com/kei16r.jpg[/t]
Painted red for +25kw
I'd say the 19mm rsx sway bar is a good balance between ride comfort and handling. As far as ride is concerned, i can't really notice a difference. It seems a little bumpier on the really crap roads, but nothing like my friends EM2 with a 23mm sway bar.[/QUOTE]
Take some onramps or other tight higher speed bends, what was your stock one? I went from a 14mm to a 22mm when I got my ASR brace and ITR bar, when I first got it I was so not used of the rear end holding it's self together that I thought the back end was coming around whenever I cornered. I really love mine, it gives my car the more perfect balance that it really should have. Instead of just wildly understeering the whole car more near the limits will do a mix of both while still being bias to understeer naturally keeping it easy to control.
I forgot how horrible the EM2 community was, I just tried to google about DC5 suspension on them and found no actual proof that it will even sit on DC5 struts. I only found decent info on how to 5 lug. I'd really suggest to pair it with some DC5R suspension which you can pick up cheaper than anything else you'd normally buy. You really won't notice the bar until you have the spring/shock rates which will make it come alive. However, i'll just give you this link since I'm giving up on finding you a picture of how it would sit on it. [url]http://www.civicforums.com/forums/46-members-rides/353435-blues-kind-build-thread-5-lug-em2.html[/url]
I need to get some better sway bars in the future, taking corners at around 40 makes the car feel like its going to do a barrel roll. :v:
I totally can notice the bar, and the only reason I did it was because it was a bargain. Unfortunately I broke an end link driving over to my friends house today, so ill be getting better new end links. Idk why it broke though, I may have installed it wrong.
[editline]12th April 2014[/editline]
I think stock it was around 14mm. It will trail into corners if I chuck it in now, and oversteers and tripods a bit if I trail brake.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44527759]I need to get some better sway bars in the future, taking corners at around 40 makes the car feel like its going to do a barrel roll. :v:[/QUOTE]
Me too, it's a very noticeable upgrade that you can get on the cheap.
I decided not to touch GF's S13 for a bit. Working on it straight for weeks has gotten me exhausted and I've lost hope on it. Hopefully no valves were bent or pistons damaged.
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