• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-12%2012.41.15.jpg[/t] Seafoamed it and made sure to poor a good bit down the IACV since it had a bit of a sticky idle. Took it around the block a few times and let it smoke like hell. Let it idle for a few mins and it stopped smoking. Hopefully this helps it more than hurts it, worst comes worst I grab a shortblock to rebuild.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44530235][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-04-12%2012.41.15.jpg[/t] Seafoamed it and made sure to poor a good bit down the IACV since it had a bit of a sticky idle. Took it around the block a few times and let it smoke like hell. Let it idle for a few mins and it stopped smoking. Hopefully this helps it more than hurts it, worst comes worst I grab a shortblock to rebuild.[/QUOTE] What is it currently still doing/not doing? In depth if you could please.
Forget wasting time with shortblocks, why not a smallblock?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44530277]What is it currently still doing/not doing? In depth if you could please.[/QUOTE] Nothing now other than not smoking at all :v: I still have to get tags for it so I won't really know much about oil consumption but it hasn't blown through any significant amount since I changed it and drove it 10 miles. I'll really have to put like 30 miles on it, get it timed better than "YEP, THE IDLE IS SMOOTH AND NOT BOUNCING" and reassess. It starts up perfectly although the idle will occasionally "stick" and it won't always idle down when I put it in neutral, it requires a throttle blip to bring it from like 1400 to 900 when it does this. However, it doesn't have a tach so I can't be 100% but I'm very familiar with the idle in my Integra and how it should sound/feel at different rpms. I dumped a bunch of seafoam down the IACV since the IACV has a hose because it can't mount on the throttle body which has fuel injectors in it. That seemed to clean it up some and it started with one less crank as well so this may have sorted my less than absolutely perfect idle. I basically just need to change the MTF, get the tires balanced and wheels aligned. After that it's the little things like fix the loose speaker connections, replace 1990 paper cone speakers and repair or replace missing/broken interior bits.
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41461189/drop/IMAG0172.jpg[/img] Just finished this today.
[QUOTE=katbug;44531444][img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41461189/drop/IMAG0172.jpg[/img] Just finished this today.[/QUOTE] Now that's a fucking proper bike engine kit. All I see around here are those shitty 2 cycle engine kits that leak oil/gas all over, sound like shit and smoke like snoop dogg.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44531406]Nothing now other than not smoking at all :v: I still have to get tags for it so I won't really know much about oil consumption but it hasn't blown through any significant amount since I changed it and drove it 10 miles. I'll really have to put like 30 miles on it, get it timed better than "YEP, THE IDLE IS SMOOTH AND NOT BOUNCING" and reassess. It starts up perfectly although the idle will occasionally "stick" and it won't always idle down when I put it in neutral, it requires a throttle blip to bring it from like 1400 to 900 when it does this. However, it doesn't have a tach so I can't be 100% but I'm very familiar with the idle in my Integra and how it should sound/feel at different rpms. I dumped a bunch of seafoam down the IACV since the IACV has a hose because it can't mount on the throttle body which has fuel injectors in it. That seemed to clean it up some and it started with one less crank as well so this may have sorted my less than absolutely perfect idle. I basically just need to change the MTF, get the tires balanced and wheels aligned. After that it's the little things like fix the loose speaker connections, replace 1990 paper cone speakers and repair or replace missing/broken interior bits.[/QUOTE] Sounds exactly like my hoopty Sentra, but it seems to idle smoothly, afaict without a tach. The trans could do with a fluid change I think, I'll try and get that done here soon, just gotta find someone with a driveway who doesn't mind me making a mess. As I've said, I just got new tires and an alignment. I even fixed the missing handle for the window. :v: I had to hammer on a socket so I can ratchet the window up and down. The other option was pliers, which absolutely destroyed the teeth on the gear for the handle thanks to passengers not knowing how to use pliers. I could probably epoxy another handle on if I can get my hands on another one though, but if I ever sell the car, I'd want to pull out the speakers under the door panels.
Well I did something stupid, and went ahead and registered my car for a show just so I could allow people to pick it apart, but it makes me notice a lot of the smaller details I didn't care to fix already. It's a 4 door, so it's not going to be winning anything, and it's nowhere near complete. It's going to be fun though. I can't wait to be the only slant to show up. So I worked on it a lot the last couple days, and the deal is on the 27th, so I got less than two weeks to do a few things. The Front seat cover isn't going to happen in that time, so I'm letting that go and focusing on everything else. This car is definitely not "original" or "restored" - more of a restomod, or "hotrod" as people like to call them, so eh. I'm looking for input to if you guys see anything. Dash: Fucking dash pad is still cracked naturally - and haven't done much to fix it in a while. No - bondo doesn't stick - I tried that. Looking like I'll have to make some kind of cover for it or something. But I did finish most of the dash detailing today. There's still some black to be done behind the dash bezels, but it's getting there. Before: [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140412_133514_zps1a791266.jpg[/IMG] After: [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140412_150227_zps861ca6dc.jpg[/IMG] See how above the heater controls the white dash peaks through? I want to pull it back off and black that out. It just makes it look lop-sided when it's not. I also want to fix the surround for the radio. Nothing seems to look right. The dash was butchered by the p.o. so I've been doing a lot of cosmetic work to it to get it where it is now. I'm still looking on ideas for how to make it look like it has always been part of the dash. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140412_150230_zpsc95a3fae.jpg[/IMG] It's much better than just the straight black that it was. I pulled the tail light bezels off, and repaired the black lining on them. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140412_100123_zpsfa86c75c.jpg[/IMG] Basically just cleaned them off real good, dryed them off, used some fine line tape to tape off the parts that are supposed to be chrome, and sprayed them semi-gloss black. Sorry for the bad picture, but they do look better than they did. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140412_105255_zpsdb64ff8c.jpg[/IMG] I also did a 70s/80s style modification. I'm liking how it's turning out, but I'm not done with it yet. I'm going to find a piece of aluminum, and cut it nicely to fit vertically in the center, to create a modern mopar shape in the grill. It's bold, but I think it'll work. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140411_172837_zpsa4f819aa.jpg[/IMG] I also took one of the horns off, and degreased and sprayed it gloss black, and did the same for the wiper motor in the rear center of the engine bay. I might do it to the lower horn now since it turned out ok. The alternator I also removed and blacked out. It is near invisible now, but at least not a rust stain in the engine bay. I also sanded and removed the purple stripes across the fenders in the bay, and painted them silver like the rest of it. I started following suit on the underside of the hood to make a nice silver field, and get something airbrushed on it by my artist friend who does the artwork on my radios I redo. The hammered finish stuff is hard to use because you can not thin it, or it doesn't look right (tried it) so you have to brush it on thick, and quick - and it will set up on the brush so you have to move around a lot and not overlap. I didn't get much of the hood done before i trashed two 3" woosters. I'm sure it's cleanable, but I wanted to get rid of those brushes anyways. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140412_163031_zps61ea720e.jpg[/IMG] I want to figure out a way to clean up the wiring in the engine bay too. It is already condensed into the shortest runs possible, and loomed where possible, and run to the factory locations. I don't really have enough time to run it inside the firewall, and change the prong setups, so I'm thinking of buying a large cable to make a new starter lead, and ground leads that do not drape across empty space in the engine bay. I'm hoping that makes it look like less of a nest. Are there any other wire hiding options?
Welp it turns out the RSX end links that were on the sway bar are like an inch and a half shorter, making them go at an extreme angle and not have enough travel. I put both stock end links on for now, even though they both have blown bushings. They're sitting correctly now and didn't break on my little test drive, so i think it'll be alright for now. It does feel a bit looser now, maybe i'm just getting use to it. I still need to get new end links though, so hopefully that'll stiffen everything up if it's not placebo.
Did a full brake job on my girlfriends Jetta. It really needed it. DS rear brake pads were almost down to the backplate. Ended up needing new front rotors due to uneven wear. Nothing special but its nice to see a decent improvement in braking.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44531483]Now that's a fucking proper bike engine kit. All I see around here are those shitty 2 cycle engine kits that leak oil/gas all over, sound like shit and smoke like snoop dogg.[/QUOTE] I made sure to do my research, got a nice 4 stroke kit, real quiet, gives just the right amount of power. Thinking about putting a saddlebag/cushion on the back so I can carry another person around comfortably.
Coilovers for my S13 are on the way. Finally going to live the #lowlife
Wasn't today but I attempted to clean one of my racing wheels. So yeah, how do I clean wheels that have been absolutely caked in brake dust? I know wash and wax isn't the correct thing to use but It did [I]nothing[/I]. (I used W&W on my street wheels and they turned out great) Also inside the wheels there are solid clumps of brake dust that have rust forming on them.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;44533341]Wasn't today but I attempted to clean one of my racing wheels. So yeah, how do I clean wheels that have been absolutely caked in brake dust? I know wash and wax isn't the correct thing to use but It did [I]nothing[/I]. (I used W&W on my street wheels and they turned out great) Also inside the wheels there are solid clumps of brake dust that have rust forming on them.[/QUOTE] Degreaser of any kind usually works pretty well. If you want to go intense, get some "easy off" oven cleaner and spray it down and wipe it off. Don't let it sit too long or it will eat the paint on the wheels. If there's no paint, go to town with it, but redo the clear coat. For the rust you'd be wise to just wire brush that junk off, and see if naval jelly or something will clean it up. Still need to figure out the "leak" or area where water is contacting the metal.
I scrubbed the Firebird's wheels with a plastic "wire" brush. It took a lot of work but it got a lot of it off. There were still deposits in the corner that the brush was too wide to really get a good angle on though.
[t]http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/CoilingTesla/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-11_14-08-59_347.jpg[/t] [t]http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/CoilingTesla/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-05_16-18-08_19.jpg[/t] I took the back of my car apart to vacuum and find where the chatter was coming from, but I still can't conclusively say its coming from either the strut or the brake shoes. Pulled my center console out and adjusted my parking brake cable. Also pulled the blown speaker out, looking for a replacement since its too cracked to repair. Both my headlights blew within 12 hours of eachother, so the next day I replaced all my headlight and driving light bulbs. [t]http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/CoilingTesla/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-08_16-20-45_438.jpg[/t] Does anyone have any advice for relocating my battery to the trunk?
If you've ever run an amp to the trunk, you got every skill you need to run a battery in the trunk. Make a real good dedicated ground and be sure the same piece of metal you ground to leads up to the motor somehow. Then you run a thick 0g or maybe a little smaller cable to the back to the battery, make sure it is secure to your starting system. Just pretend you're making a long extension cord for the battery cables. You also need some kind of battery box to keep it from tilting or moving. Tech screw it down to the trunk pan or something similar. [editline]13th April 2014[/editline] Did this today: And paid some money. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140413_122507_zps66696a47.jpg[/IMG] One step forward. 14 days and counting. I made a huge list of things to do and aim to tackle them to completion.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;44533341]Wasn't today but I attempted to clean one of my racing wheels. So yeah, how do I clean wheels that have been absolutely caked in brake dust? I know wash and wax isn't the correct thing to use but It did [I]nothing[/I]. (I used W&W on my street wheels and they turned out great) Also inside the wheels there are solid clumps of brake dust that have rust forming on them.[/QUOTE] Wire wheel if they aren't chrome. Then just use an polishing attachment and go to town with aluminum polish [QUOTE=teslacoil;44534728]Does anyone have any advice for relocating my battery to the trunk?[/QUOTE] Nissan guys buy a battery box to contain any fumes and gasses from killing you off. Some use a cool 50 ammo can because it's also vacuum sealed. They bolt it to the frame somehow and secure the battery. Run a thick gauge wire like Serj said. But really though, the pros doesn't outweight the cons of cutting up harnesses and routing stuff underneath trim. The weight difference is negligible.
It's a bit safer for a trunk battery on some cars
Always thought people relocated the battery for more space in the engine bay... for cai/intercooler piping or gigantic turbo or what have you
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;44540344]Always thought people relocated the battery for more space in the engine bay... for cai/intercooler piping or gigantic turbo or what have you[/QUOTE] Yes, that, and to more evenly distribute weight across the car, which has its own benefits. The weight may be negligable, but it's something. It also makes it a little easier to jump the car on the side of a freeway I would think. The person jumping could just pull up behind you.
Yep. Every BMW since forever ago has had the battery in the trunk. There are jump points in the engine bay, but you can also jump to the trunk. Super useful.
How do BMW's run their battery cables anyways? I was thinking about ripping out a good length of OEM grade wire out of a BMW which has the battery in the trunk. Figured it'd be far cheaper and most likely easier than overestimating the gauge.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44540743]How do BMW's run their battery cables anyways? I was thinking about ripping out a good length of OEM grade wire out of a BMW which has the battery in the trunk. Figured it'd be far cheaper and most likely easier than overestimating the gauge.[/QUOTE] I'm sure that same wire is tied to everything else in the bmw. It's probably a harness containing the right blinker, left tail-light, dome light, front left speaker, right reverse light, left fog lamp, and the entire ECU and other electrical german car nightmares. Pretty sure it would be far easier to order X amount of feet online. If you want to find some good heavy wire, hit up a boating supply store and you'll find some pretty hefty 12v cabling.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44540743]How do BMW's run their battery cables anyways? I was thinking about ripping out a good length of OEM grade wire out of a BMW which has the battery in the trunk. Figured it'd be far cheaper and most likely easier than overestimating the gauge.[/QUOTE] It's literally just one big fucking fat cable [t]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/7J4AAOxydl5SJ4Bs/$(KGrHqN,!qUFI,VsbzydBSJ4BsPNjQ~~60_1.JPG?set_id=8800005007[/t]
[QUOTE=dbk21894;44540894]It's literally just one big fucking fat cable [t]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/7J4AAOxydl5SJ4Bs/$(KGrHqN,!qUFI,VsbzydBSJ4BsPNjQ~~60_1.JPG?set_id=8800005007[/t][/QUOTE] That's exactly what I want, is it isolated off by it's self and somewhat easy to get to and does it go all the way under the hood uninterrupted? I'm positive that the length from any BMW would be plenty to get from my trunk to the fuse box under my hood easily.
[t]http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/images/parts/BMW/fullsize/232623.jpg[/t] looks like it!
Is that under the car...?
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44541177]Is that under the car...?[/QUOTE] Most likely canals in the floor under the carpet on the inside
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44541177]Is that under the car...?[/QUOTE] no, runs through the passenger compartment along the raceways or along the center
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