Just to make a post sometime I can say some stuffs I've done to my bmw.
Swapped both front dampers few weeks ago. My dad helped me out but it feels so much better to drive it now.
One of my license plate lights has been broken since the day I bought the car. Fixed that also a few weeks ago.
The height sensor for my lights was broken so fixed that also a few weeks ago.
1 week ago my fan resistor broke so bought a new one and fixed that as well.
And just couple of small stuffs I can't really remember.
Not so big stuffs (except the dampers maybe) but it feels nice to fix them.
Price?
For everything?
Uhm let see.
About 3000kr for dampers.
Fan resistor about 1000kr. Yes, could have gotten it for cheaper but I went to the bmw dealer and bought one.
Height sensor, free.
License plate light, cheap. Just some real cheep material. Light bulb and such.
So around 600USD? No idea what the currency is right now so.
And just the time it took to fix everything.
So about 2700-2800 in real kroners then? And 1000 kr for a damn resistor? Last one I bought cost < 2 kr.
Cleaned my engine bay up a bit,
[t]http://i.imgur.com/KMjg2uo.jpg?1[/t]
Then replaced a bad wheel hub.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nEgHYULkE0[/media]
Now I just need to hunt down an electrical problem, been told it could be either bad grounds or faulty alternator. Thinking about doing the big 3 upgrade to see if it's the grounds or something.
My car started doing this yesterday evening > Sudden loss of gauge for a while before going back on suddenly, ABS, TRAC, STAB, failure out of the blue for a few minutes. Radio theftlocked randomly today for around 2 minutes. Annoying as fuck, electrical issues are horrible to chase sometimes.
Round 3 is commencing tomorrow, got a rack from the yard that was amazingly clean, still had fluid in it and has a very good chance this one is in good shape. I shall see tomorrow.
But it took us about 45 mins to pull, we were the last to leave the junkyard.
Does anyone know where I can find official data on how much current I can run over 2,5 mm² cables? I have no idea what you are supposed to calculate with in cars. I got FLRY cables.
[img]http://vk3kid.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/wiringdiagram.jpg[/img]
Gotta convert gauge to mm^2 though.
Looks like that's about 13gauge.
[QUOTE=SEKCobra;44718096]Does anyone know where I can find official data on how much current I can run over 2,5 mm² cables? I have no idea what you are supposed to calculate with in cars. I got FLRY cables.[/QUOTE]
Flurry cables? :v:
What is this in need for and going to? I can't help on the dimensions part (2.5 mm² (squared?))
Radio, amp, battery?
[editline]4th May 2014[/editline]
Figures you'd know clutch. :v:
When doing amps, 10ga is the smallest power wire I ever run, and that's to amps fused at 30amps on the amp itself.. so they pull probably about 25a continuous tops.
on 2.5mm^2 cable I'd run something like.. 15amps.. tops? That would work for aftermarket lighting (HIDs, fogs, etc), or other moderate duty jobs like that. Radio power, trailer lighting, etc.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44718259]Flurry cables? :v:
What is this in need for and going to? I can't help on the dimensions part (2.5 mm² (squared?))
Radio, amp, battery?
[editline]4th May 2014[/editline]
Figures you'd know clutch. :v:[/QUOTE]
The application doesn't change the amperage a cable can carry.
[QUOTE=SEKCobra;44718284]The application doesn't change the amperage a cable can carry.[/QUOTE]
Well that's why I was asking, I didn't comprehend the question. I was info hunting is all.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44710865]That converter looks WAY free flowing then what mine does. I'll have to keep magnaflow in mind if I do upgrade. Otherwise I'll just punch a small hole through it and call it a day.[/QUOTE]
You'll ruin it if you punch a hole through, it'll most likely fall apart and clog. What you need to do is find a long resonator 18"+ at the minimum, weld in a o2 bung somewhere and do the following.
[url]http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-performance-maintenance/401-how-install-o2-sensor-non-fouler-eliminate-check-engine-light-pics.html[/url]
I finally got around to taking off my interfooler. I got tired of feeling like a ricer when people asked if the car was turbo and i give them the same, "Well.. It was, but walmart broke it and i decided not to turbo it again. I just haven't got around to taking it off yet," answer. Like i'm a fuckin' ricer or something.
It had a lot of water in it, and white slime which i assume is oil. Not sure if the water got in the charge pipes from rain, since i've been driving around with them plugged with rags, or if it really just accumulated that much water. For the oil, it probably came from the turbo, because it tend to burn oil if i would do some red line pulls and then put it in a low gear (low rpm), which i did for a while before i caught on. Need to keep that oil pressure up for a second so it doesn't just torch the oil that's in it.
Speaking of bigass cables.
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Working on the big3 upgrade in my friend's Eclipse.
I just ran a Big 1 upgrade a while back:
I just put some 4ga going from the engine, to the firewall where it hit a through-bolt on the other side, which I use as the main ground for all my onboard electronics. The stock ground on the dash was very hit-and-miss.
I have been going to work on the Hacker more now, that there is money in it again.
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I would like it if we got the behemoth in it at the end of the week, but that may be optomistic, we noticed the engine literally crushed the wheels on the dolly we made for it... oops. It's going to be hard to roll around now...
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At least it doesn't have to move too much to hit the hoist. The engine compartment needs alterations to the stringers in order to mount the motor properly with a Z-Drive, and we don't want it crushing the ancient stringers. We keep a lot of wood original in the boat, because after you have less than 35% of the original wood left, you've made a copy. It is no longer a restoration at that point. So in order to be considered a restoration, we keep as much as we can.
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The interior is also going to look much like that of a 47 caddy. It's going to be awesome. Then hopefully we make it to the Concourse this year to show it and drum up some more business. This is a literally one of a kind hacker, and the only similar body style they ever made was in a boat called the Thunderbird, which is in Lake Tahoe. (look it up, it's pretty) but the only difference is this one is open cockpit, and 20 feet shorter.
Pulled the 'stang motor, wasn't too bad for being wedged in there. Buying a cam and double roller timing chain and putting it in before I put the motor back in. Cleaning everything up and painting it nice too, primarily black and silver/aluminum with hints of blue, should look deadly. I want to put a new intake manifold on but I cant find any locally so I'll have to make due with what I got (old iron isnt horrible, i'll have to modify it for my holley 750dp though)
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Spring cleaning for the poor daily driver Prizm.
It got washed and waxed, rims cleaned, trim all done up with tire shine, tires shined up, rainx'd all windows outside, cleaned door jambs, removed the side skirts and ripped plastidip all off then sanded and painted them before remounting, vacuumed the carpet and seats, cleaned mats, cleaned inside glass, wiped down all the interior surfaces, and covered the door card carpeted sections in the same material as the headliner.
Also changed the blower motor on my friend's old Grandamnit.
Productive. I'm beat now.
So today I decided to use [url=http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1213187]Aetna's fancy link[/url] and got some info on El Accordo, then decided to try and find out why my fans won't come on by themselfs.
Did the first test and jumped the fan controller's temp port pins after plugging in the fans ala normal, eureka! They come on! Next test, let the car get to a high temp.
198, 203, 215F and the needle is way up past the halfway mark, where it never goes. No fans and didn't even try so from what I can tell the controller is shot or at least out of tune, because the sensor is brand new, all three are.
Oh well, multi switched fans it is then till I can get a new controller.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;44717769]Cleaned my engine bay up a bit,
[t]http://i.imgur.com/KMjg2uo.jpg?1[/t][/QUOTE]
dumb kid here, that doesn't know much shit about cars though still learning, to ask a question. those red bars that go across, what the hell are they for?
[QUOTE=FrankPetrov;44736694]dumb kid here, that doesn't know much shit about cars though still learning, to ask a question. those red bars that go across, what the hell are they for?[/QUOTE]
Strut braces, they are here to help with torque twisting the frame and to help handling by keeping the car stiffer up the front end. They're factory and they were also designed to help the hood go upward in a front collision.
Raised the boost today.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/aRsf8JT.jpg?1[/t]
That double post, woops. :v:
Vette radio all done
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Roadmaster for a DDIN and 4ch amp/speakers.. subs soon, and the sub amp will go on the other half of the seatback area.
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Dat hatervizion
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Subbin
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Saab bein yellow
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yeee
Clutch dude, I really wish you were in this area, I could really pick your brain about radio and audio stuffs.
As far as I know audio and car security systems are your forté, what else are you god at?
All you do looks awesome.
[editline]6th May 2014[/editline]
Edit is broke atm so god = good.
or leave it, what ever.
The magic land of the internets makes it so that we're all in the same place at the same time! Pick away.
My thing is 12v.. audio, remote starts, security, lighting, sub boxes, SQ setups, headunits, chopping dashes apart and all that.
My mechanic background is fading since I haven't been in that industry in a shop in about 2 years now, and I tend to avoid doing engine/front end/ dirty work for anyone but myself, but I've still got a decent background in that.
I can talk a mean autobody work and refinishing topic, too.
Basically if you want a car to do anything sweet.. except go fast. There's almost 0 experience with making stuff go fast here. Too much $$$$ :)
Alright so here goes some brain picking. I got a pretty nasty gash in my bumper and it is really obvious,
Here:
[t]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00392_zpsc271c69b.jpg[/t]
What can I do to fill that gap with out just pumping varoius chemicals into it and hoping that it looks good?
The roomie does fiberglass work and said he can make it look normal, would that be anygood or should I just hunt down a new bumper?
Is that a big chunk missing from it under the passenger's headlight?
Any chance you still have the chunks?
If you do, then you can stitch it back together with those chunks and plastic repair epoxy like bodyshops use. If not then you'll have to manufacture your own luck.
I'd hit up a boneyard with a wireless sawzall and snip a portion of a bumper off a little larger than that area that's missing, then use that as a template to cut the hole bigger on your current bumper. Then stitch it together again with that high quality plastic epoxy, reinforcing the back with extra epoxy and scraps of plastic you cut out.
Then it's knock the repair down, fill and sand as necessary, and prime/paint. The good part about that is you can walk out of a boneyard with a plastic scrap in your toolbox or bag or whatever and no one would know/care.
If you don't feel like going to all the trouble and replacement bumper is probably like $100 from a boneyard.
Fiberglass would allow you to fix it, too, but you run into the issue of plastic and resin not being friends. No matter what you do to help adhesion; drilling holes, etc, the repair will probably fail and crack in the future. If the bumper was fiberglass you'd be good to go, but the two mediums never work out well.
[QUOTE=clutch2;44742885]Is that a big chunk missing from it under the passenger's headlight?
Any chance you still have the chunks?
If you do, then you can stitch it back together with those chunks and plastic repair epoxy like bodyshops use. If not then you'll have to manufacture your own luck.
I'd hit up a boneyard with a wireless sawzall and snip a portion of a bumper off a little larger than that area that's missing, then use that as a template to cut the hole bigger on your current bumper. Then stitch it together again with that high quality plastic epoxy, reinforcing the back with extra epoxy and scraps of plastic you cut out.
Then it's knock the repair down, fill and sand as necessary, and prime/paint. The good part about that is you can walk out of a boneyard with a plastic scrap in your toolbox or bag or whatever and no one would know/care.
If you don't feel like going to all the trouble and replacement bumper is probably like $100 from a boneyard.
Fiberglass would allow you to fix it, too, but you run into the issue of plastic and resin not being friends. No matter what you do to help adhesion; drilling holes, etc, the repair will probably fail and crack in the future. If the bumper was fiberglass you'd be good to go, but the two mediums never work out well.[/QUOTE]
Good to know, thank you muchly. I think I'll be picking a piece of "other accord bumper" in the future if I can help it. Otherwise I'll wind up getting a new-ish bumper from a pick-and-pull. Theres a teddy bears nearby that has an accord, I'll pull it from that. Unless the fuckers crushed it already.
Received a box.
Opened the box.
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/unbox1_zps7268faa6.jpg[/img]
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[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/unbox3_zps7b8097d1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/unbox4_zps03c49691.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;44748011]Received a box.
Opened the box.
[/QUOTE]
wat is it?
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