• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;44748424]wat is it?[/QUOTE] A gearbox or transfer case I guess
WAT Racing is a pretty cool name. Almost as good as the FAG wheel bearing I ordered for my buddy's 01 Altima.
I finished my air system in the Dart today, nothing exciting, but it's hard to show what's going on with pictures. so: Why do none of the video inserts seem to work for me? ... [video=youtube;kBO8hHEHVDQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBO8hHEHVDQ[/video]
http not https
[QUOTE=loophole;44751203]http not https[/QUOTE] Hell yeah. Thank you.
I adjusted the throttle cable on my Civic today, now it doesn't have about 2" of play at the top of the pedal. Tried to do a burnout last night and the clutch slipped like hell instead :( Upon a closer look it seems like there's a slight noise from the transmission area, kinda sounds like a bearing but I'm really hoping it's not. There's also a odd vacuum leak type of noise which I can't track down, it kind of seems like it's the PCV area but I just can't place it. Meh, it runs solid. Burns similarly as much oil as my Integra and gets 8-10mpg better(24 vs 30ish). However, I got it for $450 and I've put around 500 in. I really need to get someone to detail it or get the motivation to clean the layers of dirt in the interior.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44752475]I adjusted the throttle cable on my Civic today, now it doesn't have about 2" of play at the top of the pedal. Tried to do a burnout last night and the clutch slipped like hell instead :( Upon a closer look it seems like there's a slight noise from the transmission area, kinda sounds like a bearing but I'm really hoping it's not. There's also a odd vacuum leak type of noise which I can't track down, it kind of seems like it's the PCV area but I just can't place it. Meh, it runs solid. Burns similarly as much oil as my Integra and gets 8-10mpg better(24 vs 30ish). However, I got it for $450 and I've put around 500 in. I really need to get someone to detail it or get the motivation to clean the layers of dirt in the interior.[/QUOTE] The vacuum leak is easy. Shoot carb cleaner at places where air/vacuum is. When the engine stumbles then you shot it right at where its leaking.
just picked up some used tires and threw them on the car. car heading to be reinspected. better pass this time.
Let's remove some stuff [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Mci05akl.jpg[/IMG] Then [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/nEY0K3el.jpg[/IMG] Fuck this Confirmed my diagnosis [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/XxGcwinl.jpg[/IMG] (Backfire+cheap chinese gasket=leak) Worse than I though [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/VZoYuE2l.jpg[/IMG] Let's remove the manifold/wastegate at the same time [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/fS2bruAl.jpg[/IMG] Reinstalled with all the studs (I skipped a lot of them the first time, because the fitment is crap) with high temp anti-seize. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Qr6XPV6l.jpg[/IMG] And then everything went back together, new VIBRANT sheet metal gasket, PLUS I added a turbo blanket to keep the underhood temps down. No picture because I got lazy :C Oh yeah and I modified a W58 shifter so it's a lot shorter, new bushings and it goes straight into the R154 without any hassle, it's not a "short shifter" because the axis is at the same height and the throw is the same BUT it's not "pickup truck long" now.
If you have to, over night parts from- Japan.
FnF would of been a terribly long movie had they shipped their 2JZ parts SAL.
they'd have just sat around drinking beer while waiting like 2 weeks for parts ~realism~~~~~~
helped install friends Mopar CAI on his 2014 Challenger R/t (5.7 Hemi). The Instructions suck FYI for anyone else, The screws on the instructions aren't to scale in the images making everything confusing as fuck. Use the install manual as a reference, that's about it. [t]http://i.imgur.com/2rtuqoe.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/gj1B3ZO.jpg[/t] all in [t]http://i.imgur.com/zRBlQ1f.jpg[/t]
So, I got bored and decided to do something with the spare LEDs I got laying around and did this: [t]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00205_zps2a4d4e90.jpg[/t] And put it in my spare gauge cluster: [t]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00202_zpsee2caaaf.jpg[/t] Jeez it's bright: [t]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00204_zps026211fd.jpg[/t] LED strip LEDs, whatever name they have cree or whatever: [t]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00210_zps8b318ed7.jpg[/t] Whatcha think?
Tore apart and began cleaning the 460. Turns out its either been rebuilt or its a warrant motor because it has a 1971 block with 1973 heads in a 1978 car. The rods are marked with numbers which is a sign that its been rebuilt. Totally lucked out with this car because the trans and converter have been rebuilt. [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/2273F95F-3E0D-45C4-A0CF-99DB0E33E953_zpszg9tq8os.jpg[/thumb] Grimy beast [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/616445DE-E07F-43AC-B8BD-F096D3CA9128_zpsgxbgtalb.jpg[/thumb] Began with the deck [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/4070FD81-D37D-47D7-A51A-66E67A2606A8_zpswfsliipt.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/BA431B8E-5196-4E36-8876-93C98AE335FE_zps0ydfeilk.jpg[/thumb] Hosed it down with brakeclean, scrubbed everything to bare steel, primed it, and then painted it with high temp aluminum colored paint. Im gonna do mainly a aluminum/black engine, the black bolts should contrast well being black. [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/F4029524-D782-4BB0-954E-FDFB96DB2B04_zps5cz6vx7x.jpg[/thumb]
pretty dope, bro! shits gonna be p fast.
Hoping to change the inner tie rod on my car soon as there's a bit of play in the wheel, the whole thing moves so I've worked out that's what needs replacing. Hopefully I can remove it without that special tool. [t]http://www.autogeekonline.net/nick/Snow%20Removal%20Tools/TRT49.jpg[/t] Think I could get away with just using a wrench/spanner?
Not sure what your setup is but usually to seperate the tie rod you just use what's called a pickle fork. [img]http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91089600_L.jpg[/img] Usually around tenbux at harbor freight
just use a hammer.
[QUOTE=slowchild;44766610]Not sure what your setup is but usually to seperate the tie rod you just use what's called a pickle fork. [img]http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91089600_L.jpg[/img] Usually around tenbux at harbor freight[/QUOTE] That is for outer tie rods, trust me I had to pull power steering racks 3 different times... For inner tie rods, I used an adjustable wrench to get mine off, a 22mm would have worked too but whatever, thats all it took for mine after I got the outer tie rod off. Didn't even have to hold the rack with anything, it just came right off with some work. [QUOTE=Psygo;44766711]just use a hammer.[/QUOTE] I only used a hammer when I took the junkyard rack off because the outer tie rods were shit anyways. You will break a new set of outer tie rods if you use a hammer though, beware.
Yeah I'm referring to the inner tie rod. Thanks Siminov I'll do that. May also need to buy a new clamp for the rubber gaitor as I don't have a way to reuse the old one. I was thinking of using a zip tie but you can get these quite cheap: [t]http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/worm-gear-hose-clamps-65240-2513701.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=slowchild;44766610]Not sure what your setup is but usually to seperate the tie rod you just use what's called a pickle fork. [img]http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91089600_L.jpg[/img] Usually around tenbux at harbor freight[/QUOTE] I just call these a 'ball joint tool' because you can use em' for ball joints, among other things.
[QUOTE=Siminov;44766718]That is for outer tie rods, trust me I had to pull power steering racks 3 different times... I only used a hammer when I took the junkyard rack off because the outer tie rods were shit anyways. You will break a new set of outer tie rods if you use a hammer though, beware.[/QUOTE] I dunno about for inner tie rods, but how did you break them with the outer tie rods? just hit on the thing it's going through, not on the tie rod itself. it'll pop out after some hits. [editline]10th May 2014[/editline] not sure what the part i'm talking about is called in english though, the spindle or something?
[QUOTE=Psygo;44767046]I dunno about for inner tie rods, but how did you break them with the outer tie rods? just hit on the thing it's going through, not on the tie rod itself. it'll pop out after some hits. [editline]10th May 2014[/editline] not sure what the part i'm talking about is called in english though, the spindle or something?[/QUOTE] These are outer tie rods, if you hit the end the nut goes on with a hammer, you may damage it. [t]http://assets2.fcpstores.com/public/assets/products/27072/large/3516944.jpg?1286479126[/t] Here is the inner tie rod [img]http://assets0.fcpstores.com/public/assets/products/53449/product/3530167L.jpg?1334335398[/img]
yes, hit the spindle or whatever it's called instead and it'll pop out.
[QUOTE=Psygo;44767112]yes, hit the spindle or whatever it's called instead and it'll pop out.[/QUOTE] You mean where it screws into the inner tie rod, that could work too I guess...
I think he means the spot just to the side of where the outer bolts through, not on the joint or threads. But I'm sure you know where not to hit. :wink: I've done it, just don't try and use a nail hammer or any as small, you'll just beat dents in the metal. I use a 4lb sledge and wrap on it a few good times. Nothing really hard though. It is a sledge. An old machinist taught it to me, took like 12-14 different tierod jobs to get it just right, luckly never damaged anything though. It's the shock of the impact that knocks it loose. I don't think it'd work on an inner though but it does just as well on upper/lower control arm joints. Speaking of hammers, I need to get a slide hammer. If I ever need to do my bearings again and don't have it I'll be fucked. [editline]9th May 2014[/editline] Wow my ADD kicked in hard, that shits all over. [editline]9th May 2014[/editline] CON-TEN-TAH! Because DIY. This side the other and all the tools I used. Twas fairly easy, save northern truck rusted bolts. [t]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00221_zpsa2253167.jpg~original[/t]
Been there. I remember using a propane torch for hours on my rusted Sentra.
Primered some bolts and painted them black [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/C22216BB-1321-437A-8011-85B0B760A89E_zpsas9bwxqd.jpg[/thumb] Sandblasted a load of stuff [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/71BF8D50-4E52-47C2-98FF-4C6DECEBDC89_zpsppvr75sd.jpg[/thumb] Really helped with bringing the details out in things [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/A9EDB056-99B4-43AE-BBB8-4F437551A53D_zpsfkpjs7ko.jpg[/thumb] Still have to detail the valve covers and a few other pieces with a blue paint pen. [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/CA044EAB-A3B6-4B4E-9CB9-6C0F02582D10_zpsxsthogyj.jpg[/thumb]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12876495/rightonthismotherfucker.jpg[/img] this is where I meant, obviously not if it's shiny like that, but a few hard hits with a normal sized hammer that everyone has and it should pop out.
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