• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
If a few knocks with a hammer doesn't work, you shouldn't be doing anything but using a separator. They are like $12 at Harbor Freight and they don't destroy things like pickleforks(idiotforks) do. [url]http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html[/url]
I just welded a big piece of metal on it :v: [t]http://i.imgur.com/PfchH3I.jpg[/t]
My tie rod ends were only replaced a year ago so I doubt they're THAT hard to get off, should only need a few taps. I'll be gentle though, I plan on keeping the outer end and changing the inner end.
On the topic of pickle forks and other 'tools' for separating balljoints: Fuck that. Pickleforks are great, if you wanna destroy the boot. So use them if you're replacing the balljoint to be separated. Otherwise what psygo said is correct. Take a hammer, a big one, and beat the ever loving piss out of the area near the *hole* where the joint pokes into. It's a taper fit and is what it necessary to break the fit free. At the same time you need to be prying apart (so get a bigass prybar on the lower control arm prying down, if you're breaking a balljoint on a macphearson strut car, for example). Sometimes you need to beat them hard; none of that pussy tapping. That's the only reliable method I've seen/found to separate balljoints without damaingthe joints/threads/boots.
Thank you Clutch, alot clearer then my ADD attempt. WHY THE FUCK AM I JUST NOW LEARNING OF THIS?! [thumb]http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12294.jpg[/thumb] I'm fucking getting one tomorrow, no more wrecked boots. :eng101:
[QUOTE=BRM;44776855]I just welded a big piece of metal on it :v: [t]http://i.imgur.com/PfchH3I.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Holy shit... Your talking heavy duty right there.
[QUOTE=BRM;44776855]I just welded a big piece of metal on it :v: [t]http://i.imgur.com/PfchH3I.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] What the shit is that control arm even for, I've never seen anything like it. To be fair, theres alot I haven't seen. :suicide:
wait, didn't realise you were talking about control arms that's my lower wishbone
[QUOTE=BRM;44784779]wait, didn't realise you were talking about control arms that's my lower wishbone[/QUOTE] Wait.. that's the same thing :v:
wait wtf what is this thing called then [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12876495/rightonthismotherfucker.jpg[/t] edit: nvm, it's late..
Removed de clutch assembly. l-looks great right guys? [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMG_20140511_205045_541_zpsa9ac1df1.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMG_20140511_205026_096_zpsd489aa19.jpg[/img]
"what the shit balls?" Comes to mind. So basically only one side of the clutch plate was letting go? Jeez, did it sit for a long time or is that burned on?
It kinda looks like it just rusted on there.
So I bought some 90-91 CRX seats for $50 today, I was super excited to bring them home since everyone says all you have to do is a seat pan swap. However, despite 25 years and hundreds of thousands of people owning these cars.. No one has quite came to the conclusion that Si seat pans are nothing like STD/DX/LX pans. This information was flooded over by people swapping Integra/Civic seats into EF's which use the mount through the seat cushion method instead of the outer mount. If I went through with it I would have to cut the seat and do this or not have a headrest or the proper seat back for the foam. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Seats/CRX%20Community%20Forum%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20Seat%20Pan%20Rails_files/DSCF3013.jpg[/t] The only seats that work are Integra/Civic which you have to do a seat pan swap and drill a new recliner/back mount so it doesn't gangster lean. Anyways they look like this. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Seats/Scribd_files/1-89547ea514.png[/t] I'm debating on restoring the foams and fixing them up and trying to flip them for $100. I could also try my hand at trading them for 90-91 Civic Si seats after I restore them which will require me to fix those up as well.. If I could get my hands on some Civic Si 90-91 seat pans/rails I might be able to do this as well but that would require me to buy those seats...
Techincally did this this weekend, but; Fixed the starting problem in the Caravelle, found the missing ignition switch and installed it, car fire up like never before. Didn't have a screwdriver that would go into the screw that held the old switch in place, though, so I had to start the car by putting the key in the ignition and then start it with a screwdriver in the switch. Got my mechanic friend to help me put it in on saturday. Also fixed the stereo, which had been rewired to always be on, after the ignition switch stopped working properly (there was a pin in the new switch that controlled the power to it, there was not one in the old one) Then I broke the electric windows. Then I fixed them. Then I broke them again. Then I fixed them. And now they're broken again. It's most likely the wire harness going from the fusebox to the door that's bad, they mirrors haven't worked in a while either. I also started to install a USB socket on the driver's side of the dash, for charging my phone on longer trips. Managed to pull it up through a gap in the dash, and got the actual DC/DC converter placed in the fusebox. Then my mom reminded me we might not have a car by wednesday, so I didn't hook it up. But I found a power and a ground wire to hook into, so I just need some solder and double-sided tape and it's good. It's been a good weekend
Well got a 90% chance that my control arm bushings are all bad because one wheel is sunk in and the other is correct. Just ordered a set with poly bushings installed from a guy who was unfortunately hit in the back quarterpanel. Also ordering a adjustable cam gear to go with my new performance cam... Transmission breaking time :dance:
Looks like I'm going to need a new inner/outer tie rod and possibly new ball joint(s). My passenger front tire shakes when I take turns too fast. Wheel has been balanced and all, so that's not it. That means it's the tire rod or ball joints. Oh how fun....
Put it on a jack and wiggle the tire with your hands and see what's loose!
So i found out that my car like to shimmy when braking from around 65 or so, I'm pretty sure it's due to my drivers side hub being slightly warped. Any other ideas as to possible shimmy causers? [editline]12th May 2014[/editline] Also, just got muhself one O' these: [thumb]http://www.epcecommerce.com/ebay/501-D5A13-U1023%20(17).jpg[/thumb] Lower insurance costs? I hope. It comes with all that stuff?. Yes, yes it do.
Today I filled up my tire on the Integra since it was around 10psi from not driving it for a week and a half. Drove over to a locally owned tireshop which is a Tirerack authorized dealer and got a set of Goodyear Eagle Sports ordered since mine are on the wear bar and one is now slowly leaking. So there went $450.. After that I went out to dinner, came home and sat down and 2 minutes previous to this a friend posted up that he pulled a motor out of a buddy's car he just bought and was parting it out because he wanted the block to sleeve. Scored a D16Z6 intake manifold, complete with injectors, all sensors and TB for $50. So now I have the less than off the shelf part of doing a MPFI swap on my Civic! Now I just need to watch for a deal on a D15B7 distributor, ECU and grab a OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness then I should have like another 10hp and potential for higher and lower MPG lol. So I blew $500 today, $50 yesterday and at this exact second I have nothing but a manifold and seats in my garage. :v: [editline]12th May 2014[/editline] Here's some pictures of the seats. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Seats/2014-05-12%2014.17.17.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Seats/2014-05-12%2014.17.44.jpg[/t]
Scratch that, looks like it's most likely a bad wheel bearing...
Wheel bearings are super easy so you're lucky there :v:
Ok, so I jacked up the passenger wheel and saw that there was a lot of play in the inner tie rod. Took the wheel off and got the tie rod end out of the knuckle to see.... the protective boot wasn't secured to my rack and pinion. I tried to move the inner tie rod around, and it didn't have the play it had before. Now I'm wondering if water/dirt/mud seeped into my rack and pinion and ruined it because the boot was not secured. Can this happen???
I think the boot is there to protect the balljoint on the inner tie rod, there shouldn't be a way for dirt to get into the steering system if the tie rod is screwed on. [editline]13th May 2014[/editline] If you have both front wheels off the ground, check for play at 9 and 3 again. If the amount of play mirrors itself at the opposite side while you're doing it it's your steering rack, if the other wheel remains still while you get play then it's just the tie rod.
Unpolished: [t]http://puu.sh/8M5oc[/t] Hood polished: [t]http://puu.sh/8M5oV[/t] And then fenders polished: [t]http://puu.sh/8M5pR[/t]
I visited my girl today [t]http://i.imgur.com/p1c8C2t.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/35KYsdB.jpg[/t] Fires right up and puurr's like a kitten... Also did the leather seats.. [t]http://i.imgur.com/gS7viaS.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=zotic;44808982] puurr's[/QUOTE] You've been around DP for too long
Alright, got the inner tie rod replaced today. That fucker was on there.... Anyways, I went to my buddy's house to borrow his torque wrench to torque down my tie rod ends to the steering knuckle. He proceeds to give me everything that he forgot to give me when I bought the mustang from him. In this box is the factory cams, factory cam phasers, stock steering wheel (he put a grant wrapped steering wheel on the car), 2 brand new tie rod ends, and a brand new inner tie rod. I could have killed him at that moment and not felt an ounce of guilt about it.... Also, the lower ball joint is bad on the passenger side as well. Gonna try and get that done by the end of the weekend if I have time...
Ported the exhaust ports on my BBF heads, stock casting was horrible. Took me 8.5 hours for ONE HEAD! Turned out to look like almost a pro job though [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/86973ECD-0477-4D5B-BFA5-222D2F4DC17F_zpsxv14g3vu.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/202DBF04-E6DD-4B70-AAA9-3B3033675DFF_zpskchyzm7k.jpg[/thumb] Port matched the intake too, the factory port match is AWEFUL! All this work should be good for 20hp in the end.
I was thinking about porting and polishing my heads myself, but when I started reading up on it, I got a little worried. I don't know if it's really got to be as precise as they say, or of they are just trying to make it sound more complicated than it actually is so you pay a shop to do it...
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