Well, not necessarily a DIY, but it's always good to admit when you don't know how to do something, and for me - that's welding. I'm sure if I had a welder and some time to learn I'd figure it out, but for now, I don't have one, or know how.
Got this sweet thing in the mail.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140514_162850_zpsfa9c867b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140514_162850_zpsfa9c867b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And then took it to the guys at ABC to put it in for me. They made me a little turndown for it too to keep it from just cooking the floorpan.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140516_101437_zps0ca98184.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140516_101437_zps0ca98184.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140516_102446_zps657ce7ae.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140516_102446_zps657ce7ae.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I just finished wiring it up. The butterfly on it opens and closes fast, and it works great.
So a potential DIY, my oil light came on blinkity blink blink. I'm full on oil, it's fresh and the engine has less then 8k rebuilt miles on it.
So prolly the oil pressure switch right? Because the light was off when I restarted the engine, I just want to make sure I'm not gonna somehow grenade my engine on it's self.
/paranoid
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44827114]So a potential DIY, my oil light came on blinkity blink blink. I'm full on oil, it's fresh and the engine has less then 8k rebuilt miles on it.
So prolly the oil pressure switch right? Because the light was off when I restarted the engine, I just want to make sure I'm not gonna somehow grenade my engine on it's self.
/paranoid[/QUOTE]
Either the pressure switch or the oil pump going bad, but most likely the switch
[QUOTE=Ldesu;44827209]Either the pressure switch or the oil pump going bad, but most likely the switch[/QUOTE]
I kinda figured it might be the switch, but it's always good to get a second opinion. 17 bux aint to bad for the part. I think I'll get a new filter and a quart of oil too (for whats lost) just to help eliminate other possibilities.
I honestly don't remember if I changed the filter last oil change. :downs:
Video of the newest component to the car. At about 00:25 you can hear the butterfly open. At about 1:00 it closes. The butterfly is activated by a 3 pole switch that is either "open, closed, or off" You flick it open, then off, then flick it closed, then off. This is a lot louder than the video portrays. People start backing out of the way and moving away from the road. It's promamly more effective than a horn. I ran all the wiring to it relatively easily. Great toy. I recommend it.
[video=youtube;mOeevkT-0t0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOeevkT-0t0[/video]
[QUOTE=Serj22;44829000]Video of the newest component to the car. At about 00:25 you can hear the butterfly open. At about 1:00 it closes. The butterfly is activated by a 3 pole switch that is either "open, closed, or off" You flick it open, then off, then flick it closed, then off. This is a lot louder than the video portrays. People start backing out of the way and moving away from the road. It's promamly more effective than a horn. I ran all the wiring to it relatively easily. Great toy. I recommend it.
[video=youtube;mOeevkT-0t0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOeevkT-0t0[/video][/QUOTE]
I need some cut-outs for my mustang. The cams I have in it would sound orgasmic through open headers. I would name it "The Erection Switch"...
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44829060]I need some cut-outs for my mustang. The cams I have in it would sound orgasmic through open headers. I would name it "The Erection Switch"...[/QUOTE]
I recommend cutouts for anyone, except they may sound awful on a small 4 banger if someone were to go that route. It pretty much is the erection switch, and I'm also fairly certain it functions as a mating call.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44829000]Video of the newest component to the car. At about 00:25 you can hear the butterfly open. At about 1:00 it closes. The butterfly is activated by a 3 pole switch that is either "open, closed, or off" You flick it open, then off, then flick it closed, then off. This is a lot louder than the video portrays. People start backing out of the way and moving away from the road. It's promamly more effective than a horn. I ran all the wiring to it relatively easily. Great toy. I recommend it.
[video=youtube;mOeevkT-0t0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOeevkT-0t0[/video][/QUOTE]
You used a DPDT right? Depending on your wiring you could swap it for a DPDT momentary, that way you [i]can't[/i] forget if it's in "open" or "closed".
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44829335]You used a DPDT right? Depending on your wiring you could swap it for a DPDT momentary, that way you [i]can't[/i] forget if it's in "open" or "closed".[/QUOTE]
It has a shut-off sensor on the butterfly crank. If you leave it open, it will turn off when the butterfly is fully open. If you leave it closed, it turns off when full closed. I was not aware you could get a DPDT momentary. That would probably work better. It's kind of hard to find a lot of switches I need nearby. Our radioshack here is a joke and that's about all we have. I have a single way momentary I had to find at autozone for $8.00. It works the same as what you describe but only one direction. I use that for the air compressor blow off solenoid.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;44829335]You used a DPDT right? Depending on your wiring you could swap it for a DPDT momentary, that way you [i]can't[/i] forget if it's in "open" or "closed".[/QUOTE]
That's IF those cutouts use a momentary signal to actuate, which I doubt. Besides, with the 3 position switch, the middle position is "off".
Example:
UP = Open cutouts
Middle = "Off"
Down = Close cutouts
So it's not really hard to figure out. And, you don't want to send electricity to them all the time. It could prematurely wear out the valve motors, causing problems. This is why you hear a lot of people complaining about their cutouts "going bad". You only want power to them when actuating them, and the exhaust pressure to hold your valves against the seals, not the electric motor.
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44829399]That's IF those cutouts use a momentary signal to actuate, which I doubt. Besides, with the 3 position switch, the middle position is "off".
Example:
UP = Open cutouts
Middle = "Off"
Down = Close cutouts
So it's not really hard to figure out. And, you don't want to send electricity to them all the time. It could prematurely wear out the valve motors, causing problems. This is why you hear a lot of people complaining about their cutouts "going bad". You only want power to them when actuating them, and the exhaust pressure to hold your valves against the seals, not the electric motor.[/QUOTE]
I think we're thinking similar, I kind of figured it may or may not use a momentary signal but the momentary only supplies power as long as you hold it, Up to open as long as you hold it then release and it removes power.
But it seems it's not necessary as the cutout has a built in cut-off for such things. In theory and if I'm not mistaken, because of the built in switch it really doesn't even need a 3 pole switch. It may operate like a power antenna motor if it's a three wire setup, where there's a ground and two positives that alternately get power depending on, in the case of a radio, whether it's on or not. I can't really remember the full circuit atm.
For this setup, it does need a 3 pole. The motor itself is more like a window motor or door actuator, than an antenna motor. The circuit on the switch is setup like an X. Two positives on direct top left, and direct bottom right, and opposed negatives also crossing, then the center two is your regular +.- The poles reverse to make the motor spin a different way. Then it senses full open, or closed and shuts off, but I believe current may still flow to it, so to be safe, I turn it to off. it doesn't hurt anything. In fact, I think a window switch would be similar to the switch your talking about and that might work.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44829560]For this setup, it does need a 3 pole. The motor itself is more like a window motor or door actuator, than an antenna motor. The circuit on the switch is setup like an X. Two positives on direct top left, and direct bottom right, and opposed negatives also crossing, then the center two is your regular +.- The poles reverse to make the motor spin a different way. Then it senses full open, or closed and shuts off, but I believe current may still flow to it, so to be safe, I turn it to off. it doesn't hurt anything. In fact, I think a window switch would be similar to the switch your talking about and that might work.[/QUOTE]
Alright, that makes sense. I had to set up a friends transfercase motor just like that on his F150, which is why I suggested the momentary. I also think some window's motor switches are set up the same or similar way.
It's prolly not getting power once it goes full open or closed, but I imagine with age the built in switch wears out and could cause it to get power all the time. So your setup defeats a possible burned motor later down the line.
[QUOTE=Serj22;44829104]I recommend cutouts for anyone, except they may sound awful on a small 4 banger if someone were to go that route. It pretty much is the erection switch, and I'm also fairly certain it functions as a mating call.[/QUOTE]
I had my axleback off my stock exhaust on my Integra for like a year, with a proper cat and resonator before the cutout and a proper turn down to help bounce the sound it would sound pretty damn good. I thought it sounded pretty good with just the axleback missing, I've never heard another Honda in real life that had anywhere near the same sound let alone one that is free to do. Although it really needed a turndown since it blasted my LCA with soot.
Speaking of loud stuff, was doing some cat-check shit and decided to have fun with it, while I could.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XIvGp9hLUs&feature=youtu.be[/media]
Finished both heads for my mustang today, took quite a while but all this extra work and prep is worth the power and reliabilty. Took the valves abd springs out of the rebuilt heads I got for $50 (they were good condition heads except they were the worst casting version) and put them into my alright heads. Started with a 46* and 60* valve job
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/03C75913-F8CD-4791-8898-89D1A643877E_zps24zvh4mr.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/68B46F7E-0284-4FD1-B9C7-5814D08F08E1_zpscxoui9dz.jpg[/thumb]
Took some valve grinding compound and sealed the valves in (perfect seal all around for 40 year old heads with light work)
[Thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/126C1BA5-303B-4D76-ABDB-37D06889ADDA_zpsod7rmvv5.jpg[/Thumb]
Took a file to the head surface to even it out and then sanded it clean
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/9BE13E3D-A78E-4483-9C1D-A43A8142518D_zpspyxupxjv.jpg[/thumb]
Ran varsol through everything and pipe cleaners im the guides, shoot some paint and its ready to rock
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/52ACF335-075A-40D1-898F-417706BFE12F_zpsj3dgb2gw.jpg[/thumb]
Installed the cam and called 'er a day
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/11277908-EB1E-4AF9-9D6E-FC85E9788488_zpsiakdu1is.jpg[/thumb]
If all works out well this beast can be running by tomorrow!
[editline]17th May 2014[/editline]
Projected horsepower is 425-450 and 500-550 ft/lbs of torque if I can find longtube headers
[QUOTE=slayer3032;44829666]I had my axleback off my stock exhaust on my Integra for like a year, with a proper cat and resonator before the cutout and a proper turn down to help bounce the sound it would sound pretty damn good. I thought it sounded pretty good with just the axleback missing, I've never heard another Honda in real life that had anywhere near the same sound let alone one that is free to do. Although it really needed a turndown since it blasted my LCA with soot.[/QUOTE]
I know a guy who prefers big v8s and trucks and wheeling and whiskey and hondas are gay etc, but his older brother had a civic he turboed, same guy who had that rx8 I didn't buy. I guess he moved the civic out of the driveway onto a trailer with no exhaust manifold to go to a shop and it sounded godly.
[QUOTE=Del91;44830887]I know a guy who prefers big v8s and trucks and wheeling and whiskey and hondas are gay etc, but his older brother had a civic he turboed, same guy who had that rx8 I didn't buy. I guess he moved the civic out of the driveway onto a trailer with no exhaust manifold to go to a shop and it sounded godly.[/QUOTE]
Turbos are like the best sounding exhaust modification :v:
It disnt have the turbo yet, he just prepped it a bit and then sent it to a speed shop. He put it on the trailer with the exhaust coming straight out the block. :v:
[editline]17th May 2014[/editline]
Actually i think it was a buddy not a shop. Iirc the guy fucked something up and it sat for a month, then when it got all put back together it blew up a month or two later. Then he bought the rx8.
Some of you might not know that I like RC planes....
Well.... I took delivery of a new to me 50cc 88" Extra 300.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Plane%20Folder/IMAG0559.jpg[/t]
This is to replace my yak that got stuck down by a low flying jet.
May she have a good life ahead of her.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;44864480]Some of you might not know that I like RC planes....
Well.... I took delivery of a new to me 50cc 88" Extra 300.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Plane%20Folder/IMAG0559.jpg[/t]
This is to replace my yak that got stuck down by a low flying jet.
May she have a good life ahead of her.[/QUOTE]
That reminds me that
a) I hate you, and
b) I need to install FSX again...
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;44864604]That reminds me that
a) I hate you, and
b) I need to install FSX again...[/QUOTE]
Awww sweetie I love you too.
Skip over FSX, buy a [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-20in1-Flight-Simulator-Cable-USB-Dongle-for-JR-FUTABA-Eflite-Flysky-Esky-TX-/251486806184?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8dc820a8]20 in 1 donngle[/url] and a simple ol' Transmitter with a Trainer port.
And you'd be flying RC planes in a simulator in no time.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;44864886]Awww sweetie I love you too.
Skip over FSX, buy a [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-20in1-Flight-Simulator-Cable-USB-Dongle-for-JR-FUTABA-Eflite-Flysky-Esky-TX-/251486806184?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8dc820a8]20 in 1 donngle[/url] and a simple ol' Transmitter with a Trainer port.
And you'd be flying RC planes in a simulator in no time.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, but I don't have to buy anything to get my FSX to run. And it's the Gold version (deluxe + Acceleration)
So yesterday I was getting ready to head to a friends and my lifters, as per a not-normal usual, started making noise. And then it got louder and refused to quiet down after all was warmed up.
Tear off both valve covers on cabin side of engine and get to adjusting of those exhaust valves!
One of them was horrendously maladjusted, I wouldn't be surprised if that valve was feeling the heat a bit too much. But it's now quiet on start aaaand a new noise popped up... so later I'm gonna have to track it down and eliminate it.
And got pulled over later on after said fixings...:suicide:
Nature decided to work on my GTI today in the form of hail. Nice little dings all over. No broken glass but still...
fuck...
So i got rid of my old headunit
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/5ZP344C.jpg[/img_thumb]
Replaced my plugs and wires, cabin air filters, and the driver side trans mount. The mount took forever, next time I won't do it by myself. Broke the bolt that holds the battery down tray in the process, so it's tied down with zipties :/ At least I get to install my new SRI tomorrow!
Installed the new to me radio in the civic. Hella awesome having a working display as well as tape deck.
wish i had a place to work on my car, mkiv jetta gli...sucks to pay people to work on it.
i would much rather just do it all myself.
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