• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Beats me, I'd curl up in a corner without myself around. No wait... Anyway, there's no guarantees I'm right on this but I'm about 99% sure your heads are fine. In fact, my VCG's are leaking despite supposedly being done at the same time I purchased the car by a 'reputable' BMW mechanic. When I realised they were still leaking, I did some inspecting myself and it's blatantly obvious that for starters they never replaced the rubber grommets, and then I did spot some loose crumbly material in near the spark plugs - this would have come from the VCG seal guide and I bet anyone's balls they never bothered to clean it when they did the work. Just lazy as. It's such a simple job when you do your A-B-C's. The worst thing is that if a mechanic (ie; not the dealer) doesn't have any specific experience on the M60/M62 motors, it's VERY easy for them to draw the wrong conclusions based on what other 'lesser' motors most commonly do. She'll be right mate.
well i plan to keep this car for a while so hopefully this is a worthy investment
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;40238031]God damn retarded shop. they can't even put a tailshaft seal properly on my gearbox, it's leaking. Fuck it, I'm calling toyota tomorrow, they'll have a new one for the day after, it's a annoying 5min job at max in the driveway.[/QUOTE] Tailshaft problems, I know your pain... [editline]10th April 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=dbk21894;40239845]well i plan to keep this car for a while so hopefully this is a worthy investment[/QUOTE] How much would it be to drop in a 5 speed Getrag?
it would be a huge ordeal to swap it with a manual the e38 was not offered with a manual
[QUOTE=opaali;40236497]dansk, norsk, svenska, they are literally the same language that they try to differ by using different ä's and ö's[/QUOTE] There's actually a bit more different between them, but we norwegians kinda understand swedish, but we don't understand the danish that well (they have a really weird way of pronouncing things, and their way of counting is retarded)
[QUOTE=opaali;40236497]norsk, svenska, they are literally the same language that they try to differ by using different ä's and ö's[/QUOTE] fixed dansk is weird as shit
Drove a 240ish mile round trip, left with 60 on the trip. Filled up at 298, furthest I've seen in the year is 275 and pushed far past the gas light because I didn't want to believe.. Net 28.5mpg, coulda finally broke 30mpg for the first time in so long! I got carried away and wound out 4th too many times in the first 60 and we took all the back road highways instead of hitting Portland on I-5 at rush hour. I also haven't seen a p0420 and I'm at 300+ miles which is a record so far, greatest fucking thing is I have had a o2 sensor simulator instead of a real one for the last 4k miles. So my ECU was desperately trying to tell me something has been wrong since "the best shop in the city" couldn't use a fucking timing gun correctly 3 years and 35k miles ago now. I highly recommend Ubertechnic's o2 sim for anyone with OBD2 and P0420's. Definitely a good buy, it gets a little warm though. [url]http://www.ubertechnics.com/o2_simulator_2.5.aspx[/url] I really like my graph on my Fuelly lol [url]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/slayer3032/integra[/url]
screwing floor pan down to hold it in place for welding Check afterwords to make sure I didnt miss the frame >put a screw ~1/8th of an inch from the brake lines That almost was shitty.
Bottom end is assembled. Friend Tim here finishing it up. Clevite main bearings, ACL rod bearings. NPR Japan piston rings. The right tools will help so much when needed, ARP's are annoying, sometimes simple OEM will do the job. STRAWBERRY ASSEMBLY LUBE SYRUP EVERYWHERE [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/SP5w3Ev.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;40242196] I also haven't seen a p0420 and I'm at 300+ miles which is a record so far, greatest fucking thing is I have had a[B] o2 sensor simulator instead of a real one[/B] for the last 4k miles. So my ECU was desperately trying to tell me something has been wrong since "the best shop in the city" couldn't use a fucking timing gun correctly 3 years and 35k miles ago now. I highly recommend Ubertechnic's o2 sim for anyone with OBD2 and P0420's. Definitely a good buy, it gets a little warm though. [url]http://www.ubertechnics.com/o2_simulator_2.5.aspx[/url] [/QUOTE] is this worth getting? My O2 sensor is going bat shit since I dont have a cat conv.
I wonder if I have to get two of those because I have dual pipes running to the back with dual rear 02 sensors.... Something to look into.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/e03AU8e.png[/IMG] soon
[QUOTE=areolop;40246542]is this worth getting? My O2 sensor is going bat shit since I dont have a cat conv.[/QUOTE] It's cheaper or about the same price as a real o2, I tossed mine in a Radio Shack project box, drilled a bunch of holes to make the top look like swiss cheese for ventilation and a couple for wires and wired it up to the old o2's plug which I cut just above the floor and plugged it in and hid it behind the SRS computer cover. My car would probably pass smog in most areas but I'll never live in one which I would need to. [img]http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160187w345.jpg[/img] I was suffering from a p0420 because my timing was off, if you're having some sort of major issue with the car a code will still trigger apparently because the front o2 is reading idiotic readings and the two o2's aren't reading "normal" values. [QUOTE=DPKiller;40247240]I wonder if I have to get two of those because I have dual pipes running to the back with dual rear 02 sensors.... Something to look into.[/QUOTE] Dunno, still cheaper than real one lol. You could ask the guy who makes them, he's a little slow to respond though. [url]http://www.ubertechnics.com/contact-us.aspx[/url] I was thinking about trying this on my car since it's never really been done on a Honda but now it works instead. [url]http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng53.shtml[/url]
Tailshaft seal ordered, will have it tomorrow before lunch. How fucktard do you have to be to install it wrongly (backward), what kind of guy working on trans for 20years or more does that. I had two different R154 with original outputshaft seal and they never leaked a drop, they aren't very bitchy. ...sigh... I guess nothing is perfect on the first try ffs
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;40247720][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/e03AU8e.png[/IMG] soon[/QUOTE] +t that shit, ill send you my tiny turbo for like 90 bucks.
Had a look at my Mum's Ford Focus Zetec 2003 today, for some reason the yellow ABS light is always on, but no fault codes are stored in the ECU. Fluids are fine and the Pads/Discs are almost brand new. Any ideas? Also another question, what are the best ways to restore an engines original power without doing a total overhaul? Oil, Sparks, filter?
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0166_zpsd774dc25.jpg[/img] Welded the fuck out of that bitch, son. Now to figure out how the fuck to mount either the old seat or the Monte SS bucket.
Gonna do a once over on BANNEDUSERS MR2 this weekend. See what bolts have rattled loose this time. Got a factory LSD for it when we bought the new wheels and tires so that will go in once I find the motivation to pull the tranny.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;40257288]Had a look at my Mum's Ford Focus Zetec 2003 today, for some reason the yellow ABS light is always on, but no fault codes are stored in the ECU. Fluids are fine and the Pads/Discs are almost brand new. Any ideas? Also another question, what are the best ways to restore an engines original power without doing a total overhaul? Oil, Sparks, filter?[/QUOTE] ABS systems are finikey, every so often, on any car from my experience they just just throw that light on. The ABS pump could have shit out but the more likely is one of the sensors on one of the hubs has shit out, that'll cause the light to come on. check the fluid level and make sure its good. Do a REALLY good bleed of the system if you can afford to. You should check the hub sensors first, look around online and see if you can find some sort of ohm reading they are supposed to have, if its off change that/those sensor(s). Best way I know of to restore power is to use Restore, it comes in 4,6 and 8 cyl formula and is at autozone. use it with every oil change. otherwise your looking at replacing the rings and seals all over the engine. But I think your trying to avoid the major stuff, so Restore it would be. [editline]12th April 2013[/editline] Also, kinda wish everyone here lived in the same area. This thread is chock full of know how, and with me working at a junk yard/machine shop, I got the connect. Fun and awesome would surly ensue.
I put that shit in my first car, it was burning oil like a motherfucker by then anyways. I ended up scraping it.
[QUOTE=Del91;40262667]I put that shit in my first car, it was burning oil like a motherfucker by then anyways. I ended up scraping it.[/QUOTE] If it's as bad as you say, you did the right thing, Restore can only do so much. EDIT: oh shit page king... uhh have a pretty car? [img]http://image.turbomagazine.com/f/10514837/turp_0808_04_z+2008_nagoya_auto_trend+nissan_skyline_r32.jpg[/img]
It was soooooooooo thick though. I wouldn't put that in my car if I cared for it. :v: [editline]12th April 2013[/editline] AKA if I bought a beater that was already smoking a bit, I might consider it.
my 4age burns oil :c
[QUOTE=Del91;40262908]It was soooooooooo thick though. I wouldn't put that in my car if I cared for it. :v: [editline]12th April 2013[/editline] AKA if I bought a beater that was already smoking a bit, I might consider it.[/QUOTE] It's not [i]that[/i] thick, consider the fact that if your adding it to old oil how much viscosity has been lost. Also, how thick it is Vs Slick 50 or Lucas oil stabilizer. Sobek, Y U No liek R32?
So we take the monte seat, and move it all the way back on the brackets, so that after we WELD IT IN PLACE we can slide it forward if needed And then we mount it And weld it And I go to move it forward and realize we moved the brackets back on the seat, thinking we were moving the seat back (had it laying on its back when we did this) Needless to say the seating position leaves some to be desired, but It works. Oh I also covered the bolt hole for my seatbelt, so I had to smash the fuck out of the floor there, tomorrow I'm waterproofing the screw holes and such and then picking up some rhinoliner or other type of bedliner.
[QUOTE=Al_Borland;40263152]my 4age burns oil :c[/QUOTE] Get Omega 917 [img]http://cdn.mkimg.carview.co.jp/minkara/parts/000/002/747/075/2747075/p1.jpg?ct=7f99bab7a059[/img] My friend used a bottle on his Volvo 850 which used half a liter of oil a day and now it still burns some oil but only like a liter every two weeks. He's gonna try another bottle and see if it stops completely.
But yeah I drove it home today, was nice driving it again. That seat is so fucking plush. [editline]13th April 2013[/editline] Yeah its cool slap your ninja cock in my face, you'd like that wouldn't you?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;40264250]Sobek, Y U No liek R32?[/QUOTE] I'm just a stuck up old pompous bastard with very simple tastes sorry. I like my old cars - big sedans, excessive V8's and beat up old 4wd's basically hahaha, that R32 is just way too blingy for my tastes. I honestly wouldn't be caught dead in it. There's always exceptions but, it fits a stereotype that I'm just not a fan of. Different strokes, different folks :)
got the 7 back [IMG]http://puu.sh/2zifA[/IMG] [img]http://puu.sh/2zigm[/img] yay more poor
97.45? I always cringe when I see people paying so much for an [i]oil change[/i] :(
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