Heh, I always just called em' "split wire covers" Cuz I could never remember wire loom. :downs:
Geez, today is just one of those days where I feel extra dumb. Muh memoreh, it are the suc...
Alright, Clutch, here's where I put the mic:
The interior light:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/VxfK9tX.jpg[/t]
Inside it (I can't get it out fully):
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Kq1m7gv.jpg[/t]
I just realized I forgot to plug the clock back in after changing all the lights in my dash to LED. Fuck.
[QUOTE=Gulen;45146754]Alright, Clutch, here's where I put the mic:
The interior light:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/VxfK9tX.jpg[/t]
Inside it (I can't get it out fully):
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Kq1m7gv.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
While that is a super good, super stealth install, the location is probably why you sound far away unfortunately :(
They can be picky shits on where you put them and the angle, and I'd probably locate it out into the open, but in the same spot. That should solve the problem.
Something like this;
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0412_zpsef023992.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0412_zpsef023992.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Bleh, that's what I feared. I was so damn happy about my install, 'cause I spent a good hour, hour and a half doing it, and you couldn't tell that it was done unless you started taking panels off, but I guess I'll have to fix it.
Depends how much you use the mic :p
You could try a flush mount setup;
[img]http://simplicity.elitecaraudio.org/mcivic2.JPG[/img]
I personally haven't done it, and I'd fear road noise being transmitted into the mic in that method, but some techs I know that do it/ have done it said they don't run into issues.
I put mine at the top of the A beam trim, directly pointed at me. Still is extremely noisy at any high-ish speed according to people I talked with.
Yeah, I have yet to actually do a road test with it, though, I've just done it with the car in the driveway.
put my pilot bushing in lol jk it went in crooked fuck me fuck you im ordering 3 at once this time and buying a pilot bushing install tool I swear to god fuck people who can somehow line these up and tap them in with a small hammer.
[sp]FUCK[/sp]
[QUOTE=SEKCobra;45148926]I put mine at the top of the A beam trim, directly pointed at me. Still is extremely noisy at any high-ish speed according to people I talked with.[/QUOTE]
Those sun visors tho :(
One more part and my new-to-me CAI can be installed. Just need the filter, and hopefully everything will go smooth and sound good.
Always thought that if I had gotten a CAI it'd cost me out the ass, never thought I'd get one that'd go so well with what I had imagined.
Got some leather to dress up my shifter and handbrake [url]http://miatabuildblog.tumblr.com/post/89227169538/got-some-leather-to-dress-up-the-dash[/url]
[IMG_THUMB]http://37.media.tumblr.com/1cc99acc32d493b00c55893a6297cb35/tumblr_n7ee17T5fY1tysq74o5_1280.jpg[/IMG_THUMB]
[IMG_THUMB]http://38.media.tumblr.com/17bd1ee0c82802143deed380b5b86b13/tumblr_n7ee17T5fY1tysq74o8_1280.jpg[/IMG_THUMB]
Oh speaking of shift boots, I re-purposed the original OEM(replaced with BNIB OEM) shiftboot from my integra into my Civic since the shift boot was disgusting. It was a slight bit longer than the older smaller EF Civic but I transplanted it onto it's frame and it worked pretty well.
I really love doing the small things like replacing the small broken bits on used cars. On my Integra I brag I have the only completely intact un-broken tan interior.
Decided to buy some spray paint after washing and waxing my Cherokee the other day. Repainted the grill, headlight molding, bumpers, and various other parts in flat black. Next weekend I'll be repainting the roof rack.
Most recent photo:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tm51vRu.jpg[/IMG]
Also tightened the belt since the guys at Midas forgot to, and it was squealing like a pig.
Fuck
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-19%2021.15.56.jpg[/t]
Fuck
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-19%2021.16.03.jpg[/t]
Fucking
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-19%2021.16.08.jpg[/t]
Fuckity
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-19%2021.16.18.jpg[/t]
Fuck
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-19%2021.16.53.jpg[/t]
ALL JUST TO GET TO THE TORQUE TUBE AND TAKE IT OUT(because it's slightly bent)
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-19%2021.16.25.jpg[/t]
That slight bend is causing a fairly large bind in the rear suspension, which is no fun while racing, makes the car handle all sorts of shitty and it seems unfixable with suspension adjustments.
Now I gotta find me a good one and throw it in then spend another hour and a half putting it all back together :suicide:
It's not even the fact that its a lot of shit to take apart, it's just the fact that I'm 6'4" and the car is tiny as fuck which sucks :v:
Question for you all.
I just got done doing a rack and pinion replacement on my truck, bled the power steering system, no leaks anywhere... but from the rubber dust cover where the racks steering column attaches to the steering wheel column. Is this just a matter of letting the seals swell up being it's a new(although re-manufactured) rack? Or are bigger things afoot here?
The seals as far as I'm aware of shouldn't need to "swell up" after install, sounds to me like it's a defect.
There are two options here:
1 Warrantee it/Swap it
2 Replace the seals
I'd go for 1 personally.
Volvo is going JDM
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HBvscU2l.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45162827]The seals as far as I'm aware of shouldn't need to "swell up" after install, sounds to me like it's a defect.
There are two options here:
1 Warrantee it/Swap it
2 Replace the seals
I'd go for 1 personally.[/QUOTE]
That's what I was hoping wouldn't be the issue, I can do a swap because it is under a lifetime warranty, but I just got done doing it today sadly. I'm gonna try and ride it out for a few days and see if it persists though.
I dont know the specifics of the warranty, but you might want to be sure that doesnt void it.
Spend the entire day sanding the e36 interior, FUN
Today I confirmed the issue with my driver door not sealing is because the power window motor has decided to emancipate itself from the fiberglass. I don't know how to fix this without replacing the whole door. Anyone have any ideas? It's just going to keep digging deeper holes and further misaligning itself at the top.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/rPGW7MX.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/zveN9LR.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/HZuW3tr.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/resyevO.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tZYWnIr.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Siminov;45162911]Volvo is going JDM
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HBvscU2l.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Is the plumbers strap the JDM part? or the BoV? Or both?
Did some fuckin' coronet work this morning, got a bit done.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-20%2014.52.13.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-20%2014.52.24.jpg[/t]
No more K member.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-20%2014.52.29.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/img%20dump/2014-06-20%2014.52.38.jpg[/t]
Or wiring harness!
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;45167300]Today I confirmed the issue with my driver door not sealing is because the power window motor has decided to emancipate itself from the fiberglass. I don't know how to fix this without replacing the whole door. Anyone have any ideas? It's just going to keep digging deeper holes and further misaligning itself at the top.
~Pictures~[/QUOTE]
The only thing that I can recommend would be to get a fiberglass repair kit, like this:
[thumb]http://www.scenterprisesfiberglass.com/uploads/5/1/7/1/517181/3024654.jpg[/thumb]
And do it fairly thick, remove the rivets and replace them with nuts, bolts and washers. A little oversize won't hurt, just give more area to grab.
Try to take a large enough piece of paper and mark roughly where the motor mounts to so you can get it at least close.
Or scribe out the factory holes so that once the repair is all dry and hard you can [i]carefully[/i] route or dremel out the holes so you can still adjust the motor like stock allows if it does, I can't totally tell by the pics.
The best fiberglass repair stuff IMO is marine grade, like what people use on canoes to 27ft Carolina skiffs. That shit can take a beating.
[QUOTE=Serj22;45168909]Is the plumbers strap the JDM part? or the BoV? Or both?[/QUOTE]
CDM
Chinese Domestic Market yo
Nah its that I don't have the battery hold down and keep forgetting to get one.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45170555]The only thing that I can recommend would be to get a fiberglass repair kit, like this:
[thumb]http://www.scenterprisesfiberglass.com/uploads/5/1/7/1/517181/3024654.jpg[/thumb]
And do it fairly thick, remove the rivets and replace them with nuts, bolts and washers. A little oversize won't hurt, just give more area to grab.
Try to take a large enough piece of paper and mark roughly where the motor mounts to so you can get it at least close.
Or scribe out the factory holes so that once the repair is all dry and hard you can [i]carefully[/i] route or dremel out the holes so you can still adjust the motor like stock allows if it does, I can't totally tell by the pics.
The best fiberglass repair stuff IMO is marine grade, like what people use on canoes to 27ft Carolina skiffs. That shit can take a beating.[/QUOTE]
I shoved a bolt under the bottom one and zip tied the plate to the fiberglass. Works good enough. :v:
Just need it to work well enough until I sell the car. Then it's not my problem.
Put some new shiny rotors and pads on the front end today. Braking is so quiet now, its amazing.
Nothing fancy though, zimmerman OEM style rotors and wearever pads.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/bVoCaSL.jpg[/t]
[editline]20th June 2014[/editline]
also, mmmmm that hydraulic fluid
Fuck brake fluid, that shit is the devil.
Never have I ever hated a fluid so much as I hate brake fluid.
No one has ever tried to make something better?
[QUOTE=creative;45171666]Put some new shiny rotors and pads on the front end today. Braking is so quiet now, its amazing.
Nothing fancy though, zimmerman OEM style rotors and wearever pads.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/bVoCaSL.jpg[/t]
[editline]20th June 2014[/editline]
also, mmmmm that hydraulic fluid[/QUOTE]
WHAT
YOU CHEATED
Using a fuken hole locator / stud thingy ma bob that makes your life easier!
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.