• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
So I fixed a Chevy Cobalt starter again, I just did this like 4 days ago too. Somehow, it developed a ground short in the motor itself, grounding one of (theres 4 brushes) the positive brush's wire against the case of the motor, just moved it away and all is good now.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;45277679][IMG]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMG_20140702_164635_6221_zpsd77f0602.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMG_20140702_164723_9801_zps39d01e3e.jpg[/IMG] ummf look at that fucking LOOK. AT. THAT.[/QUOTE] Pretty sure mine is a lot more clean than yours... Anyways this was my first time changing a clutch, let alone taking the drive shaft and transmission off(so I feel really accomplished). Did it myself with the help of my grandpa giving me advice and some arm strength on the jacks while I was under the car. I will have a new master and slave cylinder for my hydraulic clutch tomorrow at noon, the old ones couldn't work with that new pressure plate. [t]http://s7.postimg.org/wx0llhobt/IMG_2280.jpg[/t] [t]http://s7.postimg.org/h7pgla6w9/IMG_2281.jpg[/t] [t]http://s7.postimg.org/4iv61m0rt/IMG_2282.jpg[/t] [t]http://s7.postimg.org/y9iandlrd/IMG_2283.jpg[/t] Also with that top part of the transmission where the shifter bolts on, should I fill that with transmission fluid or anything special? I just took the upper transmission plug off and filled it until fluid leaked out.(3 quarts according to spec) I feel apart of the car section now, accept me! [editline]8th July 2014[/editline] It was for a 94 Pontiac Firebird if anyone is curious. Base model, nothing special... But I have two and got them for cheap so I want to try and use them as practice cars. Rebuild the engine, transmission, do some body work, ect. I've got primer on the headlight covers and gas cover right now, waiting to put enamel on them, I will show some pictures when I finish. Flat black
you uh you should resize those pictures
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;45323760]you uh you should resize those pictures[/QUOTE] I don't know what you mean, they don't even take up a third the width of the page. Not to mention I enclosed my images with the t thing that sizes them to the thread.
[t]http://puu.sh/a1Dz9/8dd166047f.png[/t] Pretty big to me, also i don't know if its just me but they aren't showing up in your post.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;45323884][t]http://puu.sh/a1Dz9/8dd166047f.png[/t] Pretty big to me, also i don't know if its just me but they aren't showing up in your post.[/QUOTE] As far as that funny rating goes I'm assuming it is just you? I will fix it if someone else can confirm it's really big and tell me how. [t]http://s17.postimg.org/wuw0oznb1/image.png[/t]
The images link to what looks like an HTML page where the image is displayed massively. Nothing is shown in your post. Perhaps try looking at it in an incognito/private window or another browser?
2 years ago I tried to adjust my trunk torsion bars to make them tighter. Needless to say it was a terrible idea and I got my hand crushed. Today, finally, my friend and I used a jack and some ghetto ingenuity to pop the torsion bar back in place and a notch tighter to boot... so now my trunk finally stays up. Thank God. The ghetto Buick will be driving again soon :)
I aint no melanin enriched fella but I do appreciate all the work you put into that park avenue.
Not my style by far but defently work has been done and done with pride.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;45337058]I aint no melanin enriched fella [/QUOTE] I don't know if I've ever heard this, but I approve of the expression. Ahahaha.
Got an amplifier for the Peugeot today, tried to hook it up too, but couldn't find a damn hole to run the power wire to the engine bay... In addition, the engine bay is so damn cramped up that you can't see shit. I wish we had a Volvo...
[QUOTE=Gulen;45342467] I wish we had a Volvo...[/QUOTE] Lmfao in 'Merica this is the exact opposite of what installers generally say. Is your Peegit a standard??
Standard? It's a 307 SW. The reason I want a Volvo is because the battery is in the boot, though. Then I could've kept the whole thing in the back, instead of having the amp under my seat..
[QUOTE=Gulen;45343142]Standard? It's a 307 SW. The reason I want a Volvo is because the battery is in the boot, though. Then I could've kept the whole thing in the back, instead of having the amp under my seat..[/QUOTE] Drill a hole in your firewall next to the wire harness? That's what I should have done. I just popped the wire harness out, ran it through the hole, then used about a gallon of that super high temp foam insulator stuff to cover the hole..
[QUOTE=find me;45344055]Drill a hole in your firewall next to the wire harness? That's what I should have done. I just popped the wire harness out, ran it through the hole, then used about a gallon of that super high temp foam insulator stuff to cover the hole..[/QUOTE] I've used peel and seal window flashing, or dynamat, and it works pretty good. You drill your hole, cut a tiny hole in the dynamat, run the wires through the small hole, into your newly drilled firewall hole, and then attach the dynamat to the car body and push it down, it will make a nice volcano shape over the wire and seal them in pretty good. Otherwise you need to use a grommet and run your wires through it. If you get the correct size grommet the wire will hold the grommet where it is supposed to be. Don't run wires over the raw metal. I did that when I first started doing M.E. and I learned my lesson. The wire insulation scraped off and grounded the wire.
Standard = manual trans. If it's not standard, since it's an EU car, I almost 100% guarantee it has a plate where the clutch would normally go. To drill through right there. Like they said, 100% use a grommet. I use these; [img]http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/images/plastic_grommet_snap_bushing.JPG[/img] That'll keep the sharp metal from grounding it out. Otherwise there's bound to be somewhere else to run it through. Remember, somewhere in the car they run a big harness from inside the car to the engine bay. Find that place, and see about poking a hole through that big rubber grommet, if possible. Same thing goes for the hood release cable. For 8ga power wire you can usually sneak it through a hood release cable grommet, too. If it's a Volvo the batt may be in the back, but you look at it funny, or unplug the climate controls to get to the radio or something and you set off an airbag light that needs a trip to the dealer to reset. Silly. But if you disconnect the batt I guess moot point ;P
[QUOTE=find me;45344055]Drill a hole in your firewall next to the wire harness? That's what I should have done. I just popped the wire harness out, ran it through the hole, then used about a gallon of that super high temp foam insulator stuff to cover the hole..[/QUOTE] I'm actually planning on grabbing the power from the fusebox in the engine bay (if it's not ridiculously stupid), but I couldn't find the wires that go from the box to the cabin. But some guy on reddit linked me to a PDF that explains how to run a wire though, so I'll try that out when my mom comes back from work. [editline]10th July 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=clutch2;45344831]Standard = manual trans. If it's not standard, since it's an EU car, I almost 100% guarantee it has a plate where the clutch would normally go. To drill through right there. Like they said, 100% use a grommet. I use these; [img]http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/images/plastic_grommet_snap_bushing.JPG[/img] That'll keep the sharp metal from grounding it out. Otherwise there's bound to be somewhere else to run it through. Remember, somewhere in the car they run a big harness from inside the car to the engine bay. Find that place, and see about poking a hole through that big rubber grommet, if possible. Same thing goes for the hood release cable. For 8ga power wire you can usually sneak it through a hood release cable grommet, too. If it's a Volvo the batt may be in the back, but you look at it funny, or unplug the climate controls to get to the radio or something and you set off an airbag light that needs a trip to the dealer to reset. Silly. But if you disconnect the batt I guess moot point ;P[/QUOTE] Nah, it's a manual. We can't have anything else. No luck looking for any harness (too damn cramped), but I'll try this method some german on Reddit linked me to last night. Also, you don't disconnect the battery? I see you like to live life in the [I]dangerzone[/I]
When I ran power for my amp, there's this huge rubber gasket that the wiring harness runs through. I just poked a little hole about an inch beside the center hole with a utility knife, slid the power wire through and put on some silicone caulking around it. Couldn't be easier.
Me and my friend figured out how to run the wire through a grommet today. Then we figured out that the wire we'd just ran was too short, so we ran a different one (black, while the other is red, but whatevs), and it fit perfectly (I run it down the doorsill and under the seat), then I sat around maybe an hour trying to find a grounding point, untill I realized the frame has a couple bolts in the fuse box, so I ran the shorter red wire from that to the amp. The fusebox in the engine bay has a nice bolt connected to the positive terminal on the battery (because it has these weird connectors that you just flip a tab down to lock it), which fit the connector just fine after some griding. Then I did a resistance test between power and ground, which freaked me out because it started out as shorted, but I realized later that it's because of everything that's connected to the power and ground wire, and when I hooked the battery up again, nothing blew up. Yet. It was really weak when I tested it (at 10PM, so it's not like I could try blowing out the windows yet), so I'll have to take a proper look at it tomorrow.
Washed it
modded my trans x-member to accept the wrangler transmission mount, installed the mount, torqued the bellhousing bolts, installed the slave cylinder, installed the cpk, I feel like i did other things but i don't remember, I pulled an all nighter and have work in an hour so i feel like death right now. [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6250173_zps0befdcbf.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6250172_zpsc8ed6e2a.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6250175_zps82bb0d1e.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6250174_zps35e596a3.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6260176_zpsc8a578e6.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6260177_zps9b1de7a5.jpg[/img] [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/P6260178_zps7c0d84d3.jpg[/img]
'96 Chrysler sebring.......a-fucking-gain on the plus side I'm currently dating the piece of shits owner. but yeah managed to snap/lose both caliper bolts on the driver side front the upper one was still stuck in the hole didn't have an extractor handy and no way to get one at the time managed to coax the nasty little fucker out using a big fucking hammer two screwdrivers and a cutoff disc in a dremel which I'm still thoroughly amazed actually worked
Today I did something for Clutch: I installed a fuse in the Peugeot [t]http://i.imgur.com/Iesz40M.jpg[/t] They didn't have a 40A fuse though, so I said "what the heck" and spent a little more and got a nice 100A fuse instead. I also found some crystal meth in my wires: [t]http://i.imgur.com/IqgvlVG.jpg[/t] What's weird is that it wasn't on the end of the wire, and it wasn't where I cut it to hook the fuse it, it was just after I started cutting the end that goes to the amp.
Bigger is better. Especially in fuses. You should replace all your fuses with the biggest possible choice
as long as the fuse burns before the wire it doesnt really matter or before other things burns
I replaced the idler arm bushings on my Benz after noticing some minor wandering and no steering feedback only on center. It doesn't wander anymore but I hit my head on the oil pan numerous times, and had to kick a pipe wrench a million times to get the locking nut off. The bearings fell apart and out of the bushings when I took the bolt out. [t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7nIR29HcxRc/U8HDFBeiPOI/AAAAAAAAAh4/dcrD_ejKECM/w468-h624-no/WP_20140712_004%5B1%5D.jpg[/t] That is what a 28 year old idler arm bushing looks like after 171700 miles.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/VW%20Beetle/IMAG0742.jpg[/t] I started on my bumper and added expanded metal to the front windshield. Also cut off the motor (bolts were seized) and cut off the doors because aint no body got torxs shit at my bosses shop.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;45373080]and cut off the doors because aint no body got torxs shit at my bosses shop.[/QUOTE] Torx for the doors? They're held on by six fat phillips screws. At least they should be
I swear they were not flat and they were torx. I SWEAR TO YOU I WOULD HAVE SAVED THE DOORS IF I COULD.
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