• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Probably an american thing. Every door bolt ive ever seen was a torx
[QUOTE=DPKiller;45374678]I swear they were not flat and they were torx. I SWEAR TO YOU I WOULD HAVE SAVED THE DOORS IF I COULD.[/QUOTE] Not flat, phillips, as in cross head [editline]13th July 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Del91;45374727]Probably an american thing. Every door bolt ive ever seen was a torx[/QUOTE] On regular modern cars, yes. But all Beetles I've ever seen has got fat phillips screws
Replaced rear window on my caddy :) Before (horrible plastic and stickers that was already on the car): [t]http://i.imgur.com/JpNg49h.jpg[/t] During: [t]http://i.imgur.com/gQGpkJT.jpg[/t] After: [t]http://i.imgur.com/dW0WDeV.jpg[/t] very pleased, i can actually see out the back now :D
that stunk
[QUOTE=DPKiller;45377902]that stunk[/QUOTE] yeah, no idea :v:
Found my soft-brakes problem [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMG_20140713_201012_9551_zps7846c3b6.jpg[/img] :suicide:
Went on vacation about 3 hours north of home, before I went home today I instead went 3 1/2 hours north from there to pick up some wheels I found on a facebook honda buy/sell page and then 5 1/2 hours south from there back home. I left roughly around 11am and got home at 9:30pm. Anyways, picked up HX wheels which are a pain to find for around 250-300 in decent shape with center caps but with literally almost brand new tires for $200. I couldn't find a way to get to his street so instead I drove up a sidewalk, down a walkway and between a fence and concrete barricades with just like 4-6" on each side to spare... Only downside is they are this odd blue/grey/green color which worked really well on his white EG, guess I'll just have to spray them gunmetal/silver. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-07-13%2021.08.49.jpg[/t] The 4th one is hiding under the bags of shoes but I didn't even see any curbing on any of the wheels and one still has remnants of the tire sticker. Although the tires are Nankang brand but anything is better than two of the shit even more off brand crap which are almost bald on my car. However they are way bigger than the stock 13x4" steelies at 14x5.5" so I honestly can't imagine them performing worse at all anyways. [editline]13th July 2014[/editline] Oh and HXs are pretty light and made by Enkei, the only real downsides are the color and slightly poor prep/rock chips. I'm stoked, I'm gonna buy new tie rods right now so these tires don't get destroyed.
How far south are you?
Eugene/Springfield area lol, so pretty far south to just pick up car parts and drive home.
Took the driver's side half-shaft out, Coolant leak located! It was coming from the back of the water pump housing. After I've already had the engine dropped to replace the timing belt and pump. Annoying. We dumped some K-Seal in until I can get the time to do the job properly as the timing belt will have to come off again. It certainly stopped the leak. I'm not a fan of quick-n-dirty fixes but this seems like a good solution for the short term.
Undid one brake fitting stripped 3 others came inside to give up for an hour and then get back at it with anger and vice-grips
[QUOTE=slayer3032;45389707]Eugene/Springfield area lol, so pretty far south to just pick up car parts and drive home.[/QUOTE] That's like almost to Seattle lol
[QUOTE=Del91;45392974]That's like almost to Seattle lol[/QUOTE] Well it was in Tacoma and I was on vacation in Seaside, so yes I drove 220 miles north instead of going home when I was 200 miles from home then had to roughly drive another 300 south or something. [editline]14th July 2014[/editline] Google calculates it at roughly 420 miles and 7 hours, although that doesn't include the Astoria bridge being 1 lane due to bridge work, the total reroute around Lewis-McChord through the ghetto(<3 Maps for not leaving me in an hour of traffic) due to brush fires along I-5 along with usual intermittent traffic, dinner at Applebees and a stop at a Popeye's since I've never been to one. I know I left right at about 11am and got home about 9:25pm. It's normally just under a 3 hour drive and 180 miles :v: It saved me roughly an hour which really that last hour would have killed me as much beyond being on the road for 9 hours sucks even more so when you're the only driver. I went up to Formula D once leaving at like 2:30am and got home at 11:30am, fuck that I'm never doing Seattle and back ever again in a single day.
The only thing I hate when driving in oregon, is unless you are on I-5, you get a 55 mph speedlimit. I am afraid to drive over 60 mph in fear of getting a ticket due to out of state license plates.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;45393944]The only thing I hate when driving in oregon, is unless you are on I-5, you get a 55 mph speedlimit. I am afraid to drive over 60 mph in fear of getting a ticket due to out of state license plates.[/QUOTE] I just simply do 8 over on any highway, I drove a bunch of back road highways in Washington and it wasn't any different. Everything was 55mph or 60 on I-5 basically, although the 70mph on I-5 was nice to open up and make a bit more time over the sections I'm sitting at 4k rpms at 80... The only other section I've been on was the 82 up to the tri-cities. Oregon's backroad highways are basically unpatroled outside of state troopers these days, the county sheriff budgets have been so gutted and if there is one you'll generally see brake lights everywhere. City/Sheriffs also use fucking X band or Ka so if you have a detector(I don't anymore) you can hear them from over a mile out. State troopers use laser so if you see them you're already fucked but they mainly just camp hills, around corners, passing lanes and areas you would be more likely to speed on. I-5 however is a different ball game, Marion county which includes the capitol has a super inflated budget and Salem cops along with the local Sheriffs are among some of the absolute worst douchebags you'll ever meet. If you drive an import you will be followed until they get bored and I've honestly only driven through the town of Salem maybe twice without getting a police tail... They have a ton of undercover mustangs which they use all over I-5 and park on every corner all through catching speeders through the retarded 60mph zone of Salem. I'm finally dropping off all my tickets and hopefully next year I can get off high risk insurance and not get raped by them. I haven't rolled with a front license plate in 6 months either, I put delete plugs in and I'm never using that eyesore which actually hurts my cooling significantly. I'm seeing more and more city cops but they literally just dick around on their computers the whole time and don't watch the road at all. Sheriffs used to mostly do traffic patrol since they have nothing else to do, locally we just have the douchebag patrol motorcycle cops who's jobs are literally just to do traffic patrol, harass people with dark tint and sit and dick with their out of date radar guns.
I washed the 240SX Then it rained
I do 90 on my way to work almost every day, half of my commute is through a 70 mph zone and the other half is a 60mph zone
So we get the crossmember made up all right. and im looking at the trans like.. that looks too high up So we try to put the t-case in and sure enough it wont fit right now. Basically if I had been able to find a trans xmember for the AX tranny it'd have ~ a 1 inch dip in it, but since im running the stock mount I have to now run a 1'' t-case drop on the xmember itself thus lowering the trans/t-case in that manner. boy-o-fuckin-boy
For reference, I have the one on the bottom. [img]http://www.jeepforum.com/gallery/data/4/medium/Tranny_Replacement_040.jpg[/img] Crvbro is mahnigga so he's giving me his t-case drop that he never used when he lifted his XJ. Gotta love exchanging parts for free amongst friends with similar cars.
Changed front brakes and fixed a fuel leak at the firewall, 1/4 of a tank(About 35$) in under 80km is horrendous. [t]http://i.imgur.com/9IjeiLo.jpg?1[/t]
So (yesterday) I decided to fix the slight hang my passenger door had, which was causing it to ever so slightly hit the latch jamb. This is one this I can not stand on car doors, as it always leads to people slamming the shit out of the door and claiming "it wont close", this just exasperates the issue. Pulled fender, loosened upper hinge bolts, leveled door with needle nose pliers, tighten bolts aaaand perfect. This kinda thing never goes this smooth so now I'm wondering what is it thats gonna go wrong but decidedly ignore the feeling. "Well", i figure, "I may as well get my passenger headlight to sit right and fix some misaligned fender stuff." As you can see by the pic of my car theres a small piece of bumper missing, that was due to bad driving by the PO hitting what I assume was a hitch and it slightly mashed in some of the front, this made it hard to put the light in in the first place but I managed. After turning my car around and using a metal fence post and my come-a-long I pulled out here and there to get stuff mostly back where it should be and all goes to plan, or so I thought. Later that night having forgot anytime you mess with headlight assemblies you have to realign or aim the light again, well, If trees had eyes they'd have been blinded. "Oh wait, there it is. The thing that didn't go right... figures." TL;DR Fix door hang, fix light position, blind trees, ignored instincts, forget memory sucks.
Finishing up on the other S13 finally. So much can go wrong after first assembly, just shows how rushed I was with these two motors. Ultra Grey RTV doesn't seal properly if you over-torque bolts and dries too quickly in hot weather. So this time around I used solid gaskets like paper for the waterpump and cork for the oil pan [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/1spbXeV.jpg[/IMG] Trick to using cork is to put a thin layer of RTV on the smaller part that is going to be connected. Then lay the cork on it and let it dry just a bit. Then on the top part, coat it with a bit of vaseline so the cork can soften up and becomes more pliable upon torque-down. Should be good now on this engine I hope
You really should use Right Stuff, that shit is ready for any chemical minus gas in 5 mins. A thin layer on both sides of a standard gasket for the oil pan would seal perfect or near perfect. The way you did it works great too, just longer. Also, I trust ultra ghey(grey) about as much as I trust I could eat a ford, bumpers and doors and wheels and all.
They're all pretty much the same thing. Ultra Grey/Red/Black/Rightstuff/Copper is all made by Permatex and all works with engine liquids from what I've done. It just sucks to do it on installs where it takes more than 5 minutes. On my oil pan, the seal dried solid before I was even able to get it near the block. So next time, solid gaskets for me
Why doesnt permatex just make a universal gasket stuff? It's more or less irritating to have to guess, figure out, T&E what RTV your gonna use, only to find later you did it wrong and wanna hit someone. This is a feeling I've had more then a few times. I still don't trust the grey stuff.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45405042]Why doesnt permatex just make a universal gasket stuff? It's more or less irritating to have to guess, figure out, T&E what RTV your gonna use, only to find later you did it wrong and wanna hit someone. This is a feeling I've had more then a few times. I still don't trust the grey stuff.[/QUOTE] The grey stuff never dries completely, so its only application is pretty much a water pump. I used it on my water pump a year ago and its still sealed tight. The black is good for the valve cover or oil pan coupled with a cork gasket. I just put a thin layer on both sides to help it sit in the right spot during assembly. The copper stuff is considered high temp so you'd assume it can go on exhaust or something. I've tried it. It will sit on an exhaust manifold but an exhaust pulse will blow it out of a seam. The right stuff is awesome for manifolds. Especially if they don't match up with the block perfectly. In fact, after assembly if you have an exhaust leak or vacuum leak, take a bunch on your finger and smear it on the leak. It will stop. And the stuff will stay. But none of them are any good for gas, unless you want to pump the permatex right into a cylinder because it all dissolves. The only thing I ever use for gas is the $3.00 permatex form a gasket 2. It never dries and does a good job on carburetors and fuel regulators. Not once had an issue.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/E34kjVS.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/jPrE3vQ.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/rF91NDD.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/FAD7eTD.jpg[/t] Fucking silver metallic, annoying to work with, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. Only have to wait a few more days to wet sand and do a nice buffing on it to make it shine. Not a perfect match, but at least, it's better than rust. Sanded to bare metal, kept a bit of metal there and there, used rust killer goop, two coats of it, some finishing filler to fill space, primed, painted, cleared.
Ultra Copper is best RTV. Use it for everything on the racecars and have never had problems with it. Always seals really well, even on exhaust manis
[QUOTE=Deadman123;45409193]Ultra Copper is best RTV. Use it for everything on the racecars and have never had problems with it. Always seals really well, even on exhaust manis[/QUOTE] I Like it too, but have never got it to sit well in an exhaust application personally. Plus the copper shows a lot when you have a mismatched mani.
I didn't use anything on my waterpump, just the rubber gasket it comes with. Does a ka24 not come with that?
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