• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
so i got the new old donor engine in the volvo, and everything works, only need a rad which isn't clogged.. Tomorrow i can start on the rest of the wiring
Flushed and replaced power steering fluid today on the challenger. It was extremely low and pitch black. The steering is only a little better with the new fluid, but its preventive to stop my power steering pump from failing. getting ATF power steering fluid for mopar was a pain in the ass though locally. Going to order some HOAT online.
Fucking [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/iqxNMgil.jpg[/IMG] Hell [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/aujrSYZl.jpg[/IMG] The alternator tensioner bolt broke off in the block and needs to be extracted, this stuff had to be removed to get to it. (I needed to flush coolant anyways) All because my alternator fried again
[QUOTE=tobolate;45435386]Been meaning to paint the calipers for a long time. This is what the caliper looked like before. Thought it was black. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/BpBGZN1.jpg?1[/IMG] After a can of Brakleen. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/VMqSywQ.jpg?1[/IMG] Lot's of masking and 4 coats of paint! [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/syhDJhA.jpg?1[/IMG] All done, Did the front 2 wheels today and I'm going to the rear tomorrow. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/NPfZ7o3.jpg?1[/IMG] My rims are dirty :c[/QUOTE] I'm surprised you don't have monoblocks on your car
Finally finished the last part of work on this S13. Resealed the oil pan, water pump and thermostat housing. I changed the thermo from a Nismo unit to an OEM one; the Nismo opened at colder temps, making the ECU calculate the A/F mixture too rich. Its really meant for track/turbo engines not stock. Re-seated the motorset because the hockey pucks weren't centered so it vibrates like stock motor mounts now, go figure. [t]http://i.imgur.com/eB1MNlv.jpg[/t] Just have to replace a few dash bulbs now and solder new front fog light wiring to clean stuff up and it's good to go. Runs really nice now.
Prettied up the wheel wells. Really should've taken pictures of what they looked like before, for comparsion. [IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/V5pliw0.jpg[/IMG_thumb] [IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/K1nT95n.jpg[/IMG_thumb] [IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/hzC71dq.jpg[/IMG_thumb] [IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/fMdSIzq.jpg[/IMG_thumb] [IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/wBIzxmm.jpg[/IMG_thumb]
[QUOTE=Siminov;45450665]Fucking [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/iqxNMgil.jpg[/IMG] Hell [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/aujrSYZl.jpg[/IMG] The alternator tensioner bolt broke off in the block and needs to be extracted, this stuff had to be removed to get to it. (I needed to flush coolant anyways) All because my alternator fried again[/QUOTE] What the hell do you do with that Volvo that makes it eat alternators?
There's probably a short somewhere or a major draw during running. That or a ground has gone bad. Does it have hard starting at all?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45456733]There's probably a short somewhere or a major draw during running. That or a ground has gone bad. Does it have hard starting at all?[/QUOTE] Nope voltage is usually good, its just when I swapped to this 100 amp, its given me trouble. I'm almost always sitting at 13.5-14v. This alternator fired once before but it died in a different way.
[QUOTE=Siminov;45459391]Nope voltage is usually good, its just when I swapped to this 100 amp, its given me trouble. I'm almost always sitting at 13.5-14v. This alternator fired once before but it died in a different way.[/QUOTE] Did you ever check the voltages before you changed to the 100 amp? A 100 amp alternator won't really show any signs of fatigue if theres a short because it can handle it, a weaker alt would show it cant get that nominal point. I had this issue with my old Catalina, there was a ground short that caused it to kill the battery and once it was started it would strain the alternator so bad it would nearly smoke. I found the issue in some wiring between the frame, engine and alt but never got a chance to fix it. Have you done the "big 3" as the term goes? [b]Edit:[/b] Figure I'd add some stuff I've done recently. Day before yesterday I changed some upper control arms for my friends step dads Dodge ram and managed to get the camber super close to spec, they were about to fall out. Then yesterday I did some more alignment stuff to said friends 4x4 F150, which was also fairly easy. It needed to camber done on both sides and the toe in on the passenger side just a hair. The trick is to lift it at LCA next to the wheel so it doesn't get affected by the suspension changing angles, makes it easier to get near perfect. Then today I swapped a full set of tires from an engine blown Exploder to a Mountaineer which belongs to my sister and her BF. The exploder belongs to a friend of ours and shes gonna junk the truck for like 500 bux cuz she doesn't have the monies to fix it. Tomorrow might be an alignment job on said Mountaineer if the sis's BF remembers it. And soon (I hope) I'm going to be getting some Master Pro Adjustable Ball Joints so I can adjust my camber to stop the excessive wear and wandering to the right that keeps happening. Then it'll be nearly mechanically perfect and after I can start putting other stuff on it like the rest of the CAI that I have, cuz I have the pipe but no filter and I haven't been able to spare the 27 bux it's costs.
Helped a buddy toss another exhaust and stock intake on his 240sx so he could sell HKS cat back and Injen intake before selling his 240. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-07-21%2018.48.41.jpg[/t] Tried to do tie rods on my Civic EF today but ended in a failure after only getting one inner off. Spent like 2-3 hours just trying to get the inners off because they have this super retarded crush washer which covers the 2 sided rounded part which you spin off the rack. You apparently have to chisel the washer from around it then just take a wrench to it but it's jammed in between the subframe and the chassis and the axles and it's a total bitch. My hands are sore as hell and I'm just gonna hammer the fuck out of it tomorrow. Hopefully I can do these myself and go get an alignment because I'm gonna be pissed if I have to pay more than the $120 for the materials+alignment to use my $200 of new wheels which I have to put in another $60-70 to get them sprayed to a good color.. [editline]21st July 2014[/editline] EF Style [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/pic%202.jpg[/t] EG/DC/EK everything else style... [t]http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh307/rbsjnh/IMGP0135.jpg[/t] On my Integra you just took a big wrench to the inside and you were done, instead the EF has the ball on the fucking inside and is mentally retarded.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45461739]Did you ever check the voltages before you changed to the 100 amp? A 100 amp alternator won't really show any signs of fatigue if theres a short because it can handle it, a weaker alt would show it cant get that nominal point. I had this issue with my old Catalina, there was a ground short that caused it to kill the battery and once it was started it would strain the alternator so bad it would nearly smoke. I found the issue in some wiring between the frame, engine and alt but never got a chance to fix it. Have you done the "big 3" as the term goes? [/QUOTE] Well I'll tell you whats up. Alright so I had my stock 1989 bosch 80 amp alternator with 250k miles on it. Worked alright and all. Did the engine swap and then went to an E fan from a clutch fan. Over time the alternator was just eh and would start to fall behind and only charge up to 12.8v or so. I swapped to the 100 amp alternator that was used of course. Then when my cam seal went out and was replaced, it must have gotten contaminated because after the shop fixed my cam seal, the alternator flat lined and did not charge at all. $60 bucks later it got repaired where the brushes? were replaced with new ones and then handed back to me. It worked great. Had a problem where it didn't want to charge till I gave it gas, the exciter wire snapped off the terminal and I fixed that easily. Later down the line I redid one of the connections on the negative battery cable, cleaned all the grounds and upped the ground wire from a single 10 gauge wire to 2 8 gauge wires. Now finally, I came back from vacation and start the car up. I get the same problem from starting where it wouldn't charge till I gave it gas and after that worked just fine. I turned the car off and the battery light came on and stayed on in combination with the instrument panel lights acting strange after the incident. I found out there was a short in the system and it was in fact the alternator shorting out. I found out because 1, light turned off when I disconnected the wire and 2, I have a laser thermometer, I checked the temp of the block 105deg vs the alternator 155deg :v: And of course I brought it to autozone So yeah...
Sucks, man. I really gotta figure out why mine isn't charging properly (only get 12V at like 6k RPM) before I go to sell it.
[QUOTE=Siminov;45468350]Well I'll tell you whats up. Alright so I had my stock 1989 bosch 80 amp alternator with 250k miles on it. Worked alright and all. Did the engine swap and then went to an E fan from a clutch fan. Over time the alternator was just eh and would start to fall behind and only charge up to 12.8v or so. I swapped to the 100 amp alternator that was used of course. Then when my cam seal went out and was replaced, it must have gotten contaminated because after the shop fixed my cam seal, the alternator flat lined and did not charge at all. $60 bucks later it got repaired where the brushes? were replaced with new ones and then handed back to me. It worked great. Had a problem where it didn't want to charge till I gave it gas, the exciter wire snapped off the terminal and I fixed that easily. Later down the line I redid one of the connections on the negative battery cable, cleaned all the grounds and upped the ground wire from a single 10 gauge wire to 2 8 gauge wires. Now finally, I came back from vacation and start the car up. I get the same problem from starting where it wouldn't charge till I gave it gas and after that worked just fine. I turned the car off and the battery light came on and stayed on in combination with the instrument panel lights acting strange after the incident. I found out there was a short in the system and it was in fact the alternator shorting out. I found out because 1, light turned off when I disconnected the wire and 2, I have a laser thermometer, I checked the temp of the block 105deg vs the alternator 155deg :v: And of course I brought it to autozone So yeah...[/QUOTE] I'm beginning to think your alternator caught part of cube's Challenger curse. That's quite alot of crap to go through with an alternator. You think maybe the regulator in it is going bad? Or didja get that changed when the brushes were replaced?
Mercedes Summer Fun 2014: SO today I installed a new check strap for my drivers door, door opens how a Mercedes door should. I realigned the entire door at the hinges, and at the stop/lock. Replaced rear door trim with very nice stuff I got at the junkyard. Figured out how the headliner comes down, and tidied some other stuff up. Bad news is that the radio needs a rebuild, I'm having issues finding some electrical bugs with the courtesy lights and warning buzzer, and the alternator might be shot. [t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/bbuBYaERTEQjkj3JosQg5uOZ0wn5bUeoiMvuDvNleBQ=w487-h649[/t] The new trim is the bottom one, old is top. Took the drivers door card off to install the new check strap. The door opens almost effortlessly now. [t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vsU9sK4B-wY/U88UcIfSqzI/AAAAAAAAAow/CMmfm_w3Rgc/w346-h260/2014-07-22[/t] Removed some trim to cleanup nasty stuff: Before: (note the black shit at the seam) [t]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1fCiA2463uA/U88AXVejrNI/AAAAAAAAAnY/YUeg8N1d1Ds/w346-h461/2014-07-22[/t] After: [t]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7SxXxIkDDQY/U88UJTzgaII/AAAAAAAAAoM/FZk19gvdR2Q/w346-h461/2014-07-22[/t] Its shocking how thin the pillars are compared to modern cars, but I know more people who have rolled 80s Mercedes-Benzes than any other car so they must be stronger than they look... [t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hep4bbOouMc/U87-aszKVuI/AAAAAAAAAmA/90ZJy3C5BTw/w346-h461/2014-07-22[/t] -That's the pillar uncovered
Built some fiberglass door pods for a friend's car; [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22092_zpsd82b321d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22092_zpsd82b321d.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22093_zpsa784b0f9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22093_zpsa784b0f9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22095_zpsfbcd313e.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22095_zpsfbcd313e.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22098_zps16047ada.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22098_zps16047ada.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22100_zps16674ecd.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22100_zps16674ecd.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22101_zps698b4bbd.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22101_zps698b4bbd.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22103_zpsd3eabca8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22103_zpsd3eabca8.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22102_zps2dcf32c1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22102_zps2dcf32c1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Bullet tweeters in the dash; [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22090_zps41d79d85.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22090_zps41d79d85.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Underhood getting some neat stuff [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22099_zpsd284694f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22099_zpsd284694f.jpg[/IMG][/URL] There's been alligators in town lately, too [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22088_zpsd944204b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22088_zpsd944204b.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Here's the prizm door panels sparklin [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234015/7-22003_zpscf997434.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234015/7-22003_zpscf997434.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Just finally finished up the fucking tie rods and got all the cars back to their proper homes. I had to chisel back the washer which is folded over the "nut" then after attempting to break it loose with a wrench I got it stuck in a point where I couldn't get any wrench or pliers on it period after I got it to turn just slightly. I was stumped for a little bit so I figured I'd go buy some crowfoot wrenches which literally twisted it off first try! So for v.2 of Civic EF aftermarket part bonanza, I got everything together and tightened down short of the cotter pins then went to slip on the bellows boots which are Beck/Arnley. Both ended up being smaller than OEM by slightly more than 1/2" and made of incredibly stiff rubber which made them possible to put over the rack. This ensued 5 hours worth of desperate attempts of trying to slip them over the rack. The passenger side boot is too small to even fit over the god damn inner tie rod let alone the rack..... I then raced over to Oriely's with like 5 minutes before closing and attempted to find a boot which will work. They carried the same shitty boots, so I ended up getting a MasterPro boot for a 92-95 Civic which has a different rack entirely but shared a drivers side boot. This $17 boot was far more stretchy than the Beck/Arnleys I paid $10 each for and just barley slipped over the drivers side with a lot of effort.. I then just used the stiffer drivers side on the passenger side which doesn't really stay on very well but I used the OEM screw down clamp until I stripped the fucker. So if you ever want to replace bellows boots on a Honda, just order them for $18 each from a dealer and don't fuck around. I spent 1 day using the wrong tools because Honda forums are worthless for maintenance and another because Beck/Arnley would rather make a boot which is compatible with a fucking Toyota Turdcel too than actually sell a working bellows boot for a Civic. Fuck this. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-07-22%2020.23.59.jpg[/t] And fuck aftermarket replacement parts. (OEM is left) [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-07-22%2022.15.06.jpg[/t] [editline]23rd July 2014[/editline] I honestly don't know how mechanics deal with garbage like this pushing through multiple cars a day with owners who do the bare minimum until the car falls apart. Brakes and tie rods are needlessly difficult with aftermarket parts for some silly reason and basically require you to replace every part of their system unless you want to waste tons of money on alignments or labor on brakes.
I replaced the brake pads on my Focus the other day and the ones that I took off were pretty terrifying. On the nearside, the pads were completely gone and the metal was being worn away to the point where it was almost down to the screws. My stepdad took a couple of photos, I'll need to see if I can get them. Now all I need to do is replace the clutch, I think. The biting point is way too high so I think it needs replacing.
Got new rear pads for the 240sx. s/o to frsport.com for getting these pads to me from across the country in less than 2 days. [t]http://i.imgur.com/PUH5NrV.jpg[/t] I might get some adjustable control arms soon.
Got the Civic aligned, my god it drives incredibly better. Turns out the rear end was out of align as much as the front end was after I just kinda threw tie rods on by eyeballing the length against the old ones then having to count the turns against the inners. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-07-23%2007.50.35.jpg[/t] New tires which are 6% bigger don't rub a single bit and actually prevent the mudguards from rubbing the ground due to worn out OEM shocks. The ride is way better with a taller wider wheel too. Along with an alignment I'm going to slightly over inflate the tires to increase the mileage a touch so I'm thinking on top of it handling significantly better I'll even get better mileage! Oh I also saw a 2WD Tacoma with like 4" of body lift on horrible American Racing cheap ass wheels parked at the DMV across from the alignment shop. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-07-23%2014.57.12.jpg[/t] Today was finally a good day!
Those wheels look shitty but fuck you maaaaaaaaaan I love my american racing wheels... [t]http://i.imgur.com/VZGogcW.jpg[/t]
It's the American Racing Estrellas, they are literally like the cheapest wheel you can buy locally and every beater piece of shit which has an owner who wants to buy new wheels and tires and has too much money to spend when they should be spending it on their vehicle instead. [t]http://www.tirerack.com/images/wheels/americanracing/swap/ar_estrella_sm_ci3_l.jpg[/t] [editline]23rd July 2014[/editline] Now I just need to talk to a buddy's dad who paints and figure out what I need to get. I'm thinking more of a mild dark silver/gunmetal which is a hair darker than the stock color/Integra Type-R color but lighter than more people paint them. [t]http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c138/dipset117/hx.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/acuraRwheel.jpg[/t] Something similar to this but I'm not sure if I like them this dark. [t]http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/sherrys23/HT%20Pics/PA070182.jpg[/t] OEM color is a really light silver. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/hx_rims.jpg[/t] Anyone here have any suggestions?
My suggestion is send the HX alloys to me and then just run some steelies on your civic.
[t]http://imgkk.com/i/qn2x.jpg[/t] Took the picture to send as a text so its compressed to shit. Replaced the foglight bulbs because the right one was out. I pulled out the bulb and it was gone, just the base and the two metal tabs coming out. I didn't feel like taking the whole thing out to get the old stuff out because I'll probably replace them with new housings to match my headlights sometime soon. The housings are clouded as fuck like my old headlights but at least now I can have them on and not look uneven as fuck.
Pulled a 4.0 HO head at the JY today; was going to pull the intake but my dumbass mucked up and broke a chunk of the intake off (where a bolt was still mounted for the PS pump). Getting closer to them power mods.
So today I finished up a little overhaul on the Buick's wiring.. now has 0 gauge for power instead of 4 gauge. I was running 2 amps, 2 compressors, the lights (tons), and the door poppers all off of 4 gauge. stupid. 0 gauge is much much better now. Still gonna clean it up, fix the passenger door popper (doesn't work, who knows), and some random bits n stuff.. but the major issue of power is taken care of now thank goodness.
Waiting on heater hoses, then the car will be back together. The alternator was the issue and that fixed all the problems I was having. Turned it was a bad rectifier, the rear bearing was bad, the clip that held in the brushes was bad too and the shaft was bent, I had the alt cleaned too so that was all of 90 bucks or so. Quite good. The alternator is literally new now at this point. Also painted up some bits and cleaned the engine bay up.
[QUOTE=Siminov;45492420]Waiting on heater hoses, then the car will be back together. The alternator was the issue and that fixed all the problems I was having. Turned it was a bad rectifier, the rear bearing was bad, the clip that held in the brushes was bad too and the shaft was bent, I had the alt cleaned too so that was all of 90 bucks or so. Quite good. The alternator is literally new now at this point. Also painted up some bits and cleaned the engine bay up.[/QUOTE] Trying to self-destruct on you was it? I knew part of it was the rectifier. And for my day, I pulled a truck apart. My bud wanted the front bumper off an other 4x4 because his was all dented and looked like shit, got the matching grille so it didn't have a gap at the bottom, I told him "it's for better air flow" He disagreed. Then I yanked the horns and trans cooler off of it for myself. Have pix of stuff I did: Yay! [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/nFKWU6P.jpg[/thumb] FUCK!!! [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/wmk9Oy9.jpg[/thumb] YAY FOR REAL! [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/BYOYCVt.jpg[/thumb] And we killed charlie Browns tree. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/hpa2tWO.jpg[/thumb]
My car runs again with no issues.
Started working on her again. Needless to say it was a good day. [IMG]http://s29.postimg.org/3vgcyfwxj/one1.jpg[/IMG] New wiring harness :dance: :dance: [IMG]http://s29.postimg.org/8ir0dy9o7/two1.jpg[/IMG] Disassembled the rear drums and installed new 2.78 inch studs. [IMG]http://s28.postimg.org/vamooflkd/four1.jpg[/IMG] Question: Anyone here know the torque specs for the 2 bolts that anchor down the rear brake cylinder to the dust shield?
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