I'm going to take a wondering guess that its a mustang...
[QUOTE=JC2Gamer1456;45500782]
Question: Anyone here know the torque specs for the 2 bolts that anchor down the rear brake cylinder to the dust shield?[/QUOTE]
probably around 6,000ft#
Was there a dust shield on there to begin with? I'm thinking when someone put the AR/ 5 spoke wheels on it, they added those, which may be why you can't find specs on it. I could be wrong. I dont ford.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;45502435]I'm going to take a wondering guess that its a mustang...[/QUOTE]
Correct.
[QUOTE=Serj22;45502576]probably around 6,000ft#
Was there a dust shield on there to begin with? I'm thinking when someone put the AR/ 5 spoke wheels on it, they added those, which may be why you can't find specs on it. I could be wrong. I dont ford.[/QUOTE]
Erm, this has nothing at all to do with wheels??
[QUOTE=JC2Gamer1456;45502646]Correct.
Erm, this has nothing at all to do with wheels??[/QUOTE]
For some reason I misread that as being a brake dust shield. I still have no idea. I popped 2 cylinders on my dart recently (FR,RR), and put new ones in all 4, but I just tightened em down pretty hard by hand and went with it.
[QUOTE=Serj22;45502673]For some reason I misread that as being a brake dust shield. I still have no idea. I popped 2 cylinders on my dart recently (FR,RR), and put new ones in all 4, but I just tightened em down pretty hard by hand and went with it.[/QUOTE]
The cylinder I am referencing is this piece here:
[IMG]http://s16.postimg.org/7yqqcioud/one1.jpg[/IMG]
Cool. My whole post just disappeared.
I went to pick n pull to get some odds and ends. They had a nice 84(?) Fiero for sale on the lot. The interior was pretty clean, but it was an iron duke and it looked like the odometer had over 200k miles.
They were busy/understaffed so it took 15 minutes just to get onto the yard so I didn't get a chance to ask where all the accords are, but I ended up finding like 10 right in front. Almost every one was missing the parts I needed...lol
Thought about snagging a spoiler off an SE, but decided against it for now. Eventually found some door handles and driver door master switch. Found a front lower turn signal lense I was missing too, but forgot the socket for the bulb.
The only interior colors I could find were brown, red and tan...mines dark gray. :\
[QUOTE=Del91;45502774]Cool. My whole post just disappeared.
I went to pick n pull to get some odds and ends. They had a nice 84(?) Fiero for sale on the lot. The interior was pretty clean, but it was an iron duke and it looked like the odometer had over 200k miles. They were busy/understaffed so it took 15 minutes just to get onto the yard so I didn't get a chance to ask where all the accords are, but I ended up finding like 10 right in front. Almost every one was missing the parts I needed...lol
Thought about snagging a spoiler off an SE, but decided against it for now. Eventually found some door handles and driver door master switch. Found a front lower turn signal lense I was missing too, but forgot the socket for the bulb.
The only interior colors I could find were brown, red and tan...mines dark gray. :\[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Del91;45500497]Just got back from picknpull. Grabbed a master control switch for my windows, a door handle, and a turn signal/fog light thing for my lower bumper since mines busted. Fuckin highway robbery. $40 for a handful of plastic.
Which is why I pocketed a couple climate control knobs since mine pulled a Honda and broke.
[editline]25th July 2014[/editline]
Also saw a really nice 240sx. It got to a light next to me and turned...mother fuckin v8 swapped. I came.
[editline]25th July 2014[/editline]
Plasti dip is like the poor man's vinyl wrap
[editline]25th July 2014[/editline]
Figured out which color my accord is.
Charcoal granite metallic. Would probably look really nice with a fresh coat.[/QUOTE]
I posted another post here. My browser closed while I was typing it and when I re opened the page it was gone.
[editline]25th July 2014[/editline]
Forgot the whole reason I posted here. Put in the new unbroken door handle, and the master switch on my door and...it fixed my back window!!! Could finally bolt the glass to the regulator, where before it was in the bottom of the door. The front passenger door handle is cracked, but not broken so I'll replace that next I think. Then I gotta replace my door lock cylinders since someone tried to break in while the po had it. Almost out of things to fix. Probably gonna go back to pick n pull tomorrow and see if I can get a socket for my front turn signal.
I also pocketed some HVAC knobs since one of mine was broken
Replaced ALL the cooling hoses with 740 upper, lower and tank hose. Installed silicone heater hoses and overflow hose, shortened the extra silicone expansion tank hose and used it as an IAC hose for the one that happened to split.
Painted the water pump pulley and replaced the 740 radiator bracket with 240 brackets.
Alternator is now fully rebuilt
All that leaves is the AC system...
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10456008_886892124658796_3250142367684174592_n.jpg?oh=4195d0fc3c477d05f0dfcdce8dfab114&oe=543E1365&__gda__=1414731705_60be29dae5af6035ca87123f20dca307[/img]
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10583992_886892121325463_1396727180097141971_n.jpg[/img]
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10402027_886892114658797_2613345499002489571_n.jpg[/img]
[img]https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1911982_886892177992124_3839630236966911802_n.jpg?oh=d1f03c536babb8143de6a3e7397ed9b6&oe=54449CAD[/img]
That's a pretty clean setup ya got there.
[QUOTE=Del91;45502798]I posted another post here. My browser closed while I was typing it and when I re opened the page it was gone.
[editline]25th July 2014[/editline]
Forgot the whole reason I posted here. Put in the new unbroken door handle, and the master switch on my door and...it fixed my back window!!! Could finally bolt the glass to the regulator, where before it was in the bottom of the door. The front passenger door handle is cracked, but not broken so I'll replace that next I think. Then I gotta replace my door lock cylinders since someone tried to break in while the po had it. Almost out of things to fix. Probably gonna go back to pick n pull tomorrow and see if I can get a socket for my front turn signal.
I also pocketed some HVAC knobs since one of mine was broken[/QUOTE]
If you want to do keyless entry or have one, use some 4dr rear handles and delete those shitty lock cylinders.
That's something I'll look into actually
[editline]26th July 2014[/editline]
Looks like Honda made an OEM alarm and keyless entry for CB7 accords...but I'm not sure they made them for my year, the earliest I can find is 92, and that's a maybe, but if I understand correctly its plug and play. The car should be wired for it, but it may have been a dealer installed option.
[editline]26th July 2014[/editline]
Viper alarms do some nifty shit
[QUOTE=Del91;45503817]That's something I'll look into actually
[editline]26th July 2014[/editline]
Looks like Honda made an OEM alarm and keyless entry for CB7 accords...but I'm not sure they made them for my year, the earliest I can find is 92, and that's a maybe, but if I understand correctly its plug and play. The car should be wired for it, but it may have been a dealer installed option.
[editline]26th July 2014[/editline]
Viper alarms do some nifty shit[/QUOTE]
Even if its not wired for it, a retrofit should be painless
Finally found an original badged grill for the caddy which was local.
gonna fit it on tomorrow :)
[QUOTE=JC2Gamer1456;45502721]The cylinder I am referencing is this piece here:
[IMG]http://s16.postimg.org/7yqqcioud/one1.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I know what it is. lol. I misread. I popped two of those in my car. I just tightened em down as much as possible and closed it back up and that was that.
[QUOTE=Del91;45503817]That's something I'll look into actually
[editline]26th July 2014[/editline]
Looks like Honda made an OEM alarm and keyless entry for CB7 accords...but I'm not sure they made them for my year, the earliest I can find is 92, and that's a maybe, but if I understand correctly its plug and play. The car should be wired for it, but it may have been a dealer installed option.
[editline]26th July 2014[/editline]
Viper alarms do some nifty shit[/QUOTE]
OEM ones are garbage, get a newer viper unit off Amazon. I've installed a Viper unit on a buddy's brother's CD Accord with a total stealth install behind the gauge cluster along with a backup battery and a secondary piezo siren inside the vents which is so loud you can't think. I think it was about $105 for all the parts although a good soldering iron and all the connectors and taps we used costed more.
The more complicated parts like the ignition relay/kill are kinda difficult to hook up and understand though. There's a bit of a learning curve while installing it, expect to take a couple days fully figuring everything out.
[url]http://civic-eg.com/causeforalarm/version8/[/url]
I changed the servo pump on the Golf mk3 today on gravel with no jack or jackstands and just when I was half way of getting the broken one out, it started raining and thundering like fuck
Was fun
[editline]27th July 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=clutch2;45472143]Built some fiberglass door pods for a friend's car;
[/QUOTE]
I really want to learn how to do this.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;45516286]
I really want to learn how to do this.[/QUOTE]
Pretty easy to do. Just make sure you tape off the panel you are trying to mold to, or use tin foil or wax, or the mold wont come off.
I've watched a bunch of fiber glass videos on youtube. I just gotta find places that sell all I need. Like tools, fiber sheets, mdf panels, ect
Biltema sells some fiber glass resin, I believe.
Yeah but there's a bunch of woodworking tools that I have no idea what are even called that makes it much easier to get the result you want. Like rounding off the edge evenly on a round piece of wood that you'll use for the base where you actually screw the speaker in for example. Also tools for making perfect circles in wood boards. Not as in a huge hole drill, they make too much of a mess
Yeah, I think you might be needing some table tools if you're going that pro.
So I finally got my trans fill bolt out, seeing as it was tightened by god or zeus or something.
I had to fill the trans from the speed sensor-b hole (hueh) which was a pain in the ass (hueh hueh) pulling the sensor out any time I needed to put fluid in, luckily I hadn't needed to in awhile.
So I did this:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/8gG5v2k.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Mzu4DdC.jpg[/t]
It was a 17mm, it's now a 5/8. It had to be done.
Getting my airconditioning working...
Not to hard so far, just put a vacuum on the system, getting a solid 30hg (-1 Bar) on the system
[t]https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10477436_888122141202461_889101584251557724_o.jpg[/t]
Now it is time for refrigerant and wiring up my E fan to run when the compressor is on.
I've done shit like that too many times :v:
Sometimes you gotta do what's necessary
[editline]28th July 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45519639]So I finally got my trans fill bolt out, seeing as it was tightened by god or zeus or something.
I had to fill the trans from the speed sensor-b hole (hueh) which was a pain in the ass (hueh hueh) pulling the sensor out any time I needed to put fluid in, luckily I hadn't needed to in awhile.
So I did this:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/8gG5v2k.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Mzu4DdC.jpg[/t]
It was a 17mm, it's now a 5/8. It had to be done.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Deadman123;45519657]I've done shit like that too many times :v:
Sometimes you gotta do what's necessary
[editline]28th July 2014[/editline][/QUOTE]
And I damn sure will every time, I once had to cut the bolts that hold on the whole rear suspension on a 99 GMC Jimmy because it was a northern truck, ALL of the underside looked 60 years older then the rest of the truck.
Took the shocks, leaf springs cables and brake lines and all. I'm just glad the drive shaft came out easy as it was the only thing that did.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;45516286]I changed the servo pump on the Golf mk3 today on gravel with no jack or jackstands and just when I was half way of getting the broken one out, it started raining and thundering like fuck
Was fun
[editline]27th July 2014[/editline]
I really want to learn how to do this.[/QUOTE]
It really sucks, but the website that I learned on (fiberglassforums.com) has since been shut down because the owner stopped paying for it. It was a wealth of info.
I'm building a pair of sub boxes next, and although I've already done the layup I'll try to get a few decent photos.
For supplies I buy B435 layup resin from UScomposites.com , but that'd probably be incredibly expensive to ship your way.
For the actual fiberglass I buy big rolls of 1.5oz chop mat.
The rest you think of like paper mache, basically.
You use wood to make your 'skeleton' and stretch fabric over it to get the overall form. I go to the local fabric store and buy thin and ultra stretchy 4-way stretch material, the cheapest I can find.
You then wet the stretched fabric out with resin and let it dry, then build up chop mat layer on it wetted out with resin until it's thick enough. You use a stippling motion with a paintbrush to do the resin application.
Technique is a big part, since the wood skeletons can be very basic, or very complex. Having a good router is paramount, IMO, to make speaker rings and the stuff. I'm only just learning router skills, I've been using a jigsaw for years and years.
For making perfect round holes the tool you want is what's called a 'jasper jig' and it bolts to a router. Very amazing, I still need one.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;45517114]I've watched a bunch of fiber glass videos on youtube. I just gotta find places that sell all I need. Like tools, fiber sheets, mdf panels, ect[/QUOTE]
Any boating supply store will have it all. Boaters resin is cheap and can be had in large quantities. They will also have a roll of nicely woven fiberglass, though it's not as ideal as chop mat for doing complex shapes. You can cut it up and work it the same, and it is also pretty strong, and much easier to clean and finish afterwards. You can then mix up the rest of your resin with some body filler and be able to brush it on nicely.
[editline]28th July 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=clutch2;45519959]
Technique is a big part, since the wood skeletons can be very basic, or very complex. Having a good router is paramount, IMO, to make speaker rings and the stuff. I'm only just learning router skills, I've been using a jigsaw for years and years.
For making perfect round holes the tool you want is what's called a 'jasper jig' and it bolts to a router. Very amazing, I still need one.[/QUOTE]
I've always removed the table and cut out a spoon shaped piece of wood that screws in in place of the table, then you screw the board to the center of what you are cutting at the radius you want, and turn it on and go. Probably works the same as the jig.
[QUOTE=Serj22;45520314]Any boating supply store will have it all. Boaters resin is cheap and can be had in large quantities. They will also have a roll of nicely woven fiberglass, though it's not as ideal as chop mat for doing complex shapes. You can cut it up and work it the same, and it is also pretty strong, and much easier to clean and finish afterwards. You can then mix up the rest of your resin with some body filler and be able to brush it on nicely.
[editline]28th July 2014[/editline]
I've always removed the table and cut out a spoon shaped piece of wood that screws in in place of the table, then you screw the board to the center of what you are cutting at the radius you want, and turn it on and go. Probably works the same as the jig.[/QUOTE]
Word, chop mat is a must for complex shapes, woven glass is like trying to wrap a basketball with a piece of paper if you're doing complex stuff. Woven is great for big flat surfaces though!
The jig you're talking about is the exact same as a jasper jig. Jasper jig is just made of plastic or metal and has all the holes marked with their diameter for quick setups if you know the measurements you want.