• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
I replaced the stepper motors in my Cavalier's instrument cluster (They were the older version that had a high failure rate) and now I'm working on replacing the soldered in bulbs (Why the fuck would they do that?) with LEDs. I did the hardest one first, which was the burnt out odometer bulb. You can't fit a resistor for the LED above the board (I tried, I managed to snap a resistor in half), so I cut the trace going to the pad on the back and soldered the resistor to another trace further away. I like the red a lot more than the ugly amber/orange it was before: [t]http://i.imgur.com/aPGVJ7g.jpg[/t] EDIT: Annnd done: [t]http://i.imgur.com/9GzsP5l.jpg[/t] It's not perfectly even, the camera seems to exaggerate that a bit. Though it does have a nice cool-blue tinge to it and I know that the bulbs won't die anytime soon.
So I replaced my dash lights with LEDs, the original bulbs were half-twist Phillips, but one of the LED's managed to twist out enough for it to not light anymore. Is there any decent way to make them tighter? For now it's working again, but I'm guessing they'll probably vibrate out again.
[QUOTE=SEKCobra;45578538]So I replaced my dash lights with LEDs, the original bulbs were half-twist Phillips, but one of the LED's managed to twist out enough for it to not light anymore. Is there any decent way to make them tighter? For now it's working again, but I'm guessing they'll probably vibrate out again.[/QUOTE] I'd try wrapping something like Teflon tape on the threads.
Removed vcg from tyrone grabbed the gasket set that came with the truck when i bought it found that It contained everything but a vcg And thus I gave up for the day. [editline]4th August 2014[/editline] oh and to top it off it seems that they used a rubber gasket [I]without[/I] rtv on the valvecover. instead of using a oil soaked cork or non-rtv metal gasket. A+.
Changed the oil on a Chrysler 300C yesterday. Why did Chrysler think that the entire belly of the engine needed a plastic cover. 2 of the bolts were so rusted I couldn't get a socket on them. What should have been a 45 minute job turned into 2 hours.
I did this a few days ago but..anyways, I dropped the old roof pan and put in a new glass moonroof from a W140 to replace my ugly metal roof. I cleaned the roof, installed, greased, cleaned the felt, and today I aligned it(sorry no pics of that) [t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jDhJXP9b0N4/U953ljN2gLI/AAAAAAAAAqM/7tdCxsaS5xk/w935-h701-no/2014-08-03[/t] [t]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-didLf5ym1rU/U952wFRuXbI/AAAAAAAAAps/0N5SisMvdig/w935-h701-no/2014-08-03[/t] I'm still upholstering the interior covering, I'll have that installed later this week and I got this from a junkyard: [t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y-t4bioqME8/U952QpNJF-I/AAAAAAAAApQ/OJVVcecp4UA/w935-h701-no/2014-08-03[/t] Next Job: Climate Control Rebuild
[QUOTE=EagleEye;45589587]Changed the oil on a Chrysler 300C yesterday. Why did Chrysler think that the entire belly of the engine needed a plastic cover. 2 of the bolts were so rusted I couldn't get a socket on them. What should have been a 45 minute job turned into 2 hours.[/QUOTE] Aerodynamics. Trust me it works.
They could have been smart and used plastic trim bolts like honda does with civic and accord bumpers to avoid rusted parts. After breaking or totally destroying the rusted bolts theres no way to put the "aerodynamics" belly guard back up without more work or just self-tapping screw the damn thing back up. I [i]really[/i] hate all that plastic crap automakers put all over everything to "pretty it up" or stream line things, it's just more useless crap that is [i]going[/i] to break. And the worst part? It's gonna look like shit without it, and makes the plastic a money sucker part.
I don't doubt it, it just seems unnecessary to cover the entire bottom of the engine like that for a street car, imo they should have had an access port with a plastic tab on it to access the drain plug or something. I can't imagine if that car had been an older model with more rust on it. I also changed the oil in the miata and now have a small dribble because I didn't know I needed a crush washer on the drain plug :v: To be fair there wasn't a washer on it when I changed the oil and it didn't leak Also fuck oil filter locations, especially on the miata
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45594900]They could have been smart and used plastic trim bolts like honda does with civic and accord bumpers to avoid rusted parts. After breaking or totally destroying the rusted bolts theres no way to put the "aerodynamics" belly guard back up without more work or just self-tapping screw the damn thing back up. I [i]really[/i] hate all that plastic crap automakers put all over everything to "pretty it up" or stream line things, it's just more useless crap that is [i]going[/i] to break. And the worst part? It's gonna look like shit without it, and makes the plastic a money sucker part.[/QUOTE] Peugeot decided to use metal bolts on the air filter box in the 307. These are now of course rusted, and the head is ruined, so I can't open it up to check how the air filter's doing.
Bought a set of studs 2 weeks ago to replace the old worn ones. New studs were 0.04 in larger than their setting, but I bought them anyways thinking I could shrink freeze them down a little. It didn't work :p Bought a new set that are 0.004 in larger (well within the limit) and I am letting them shrink freeze as we speak. Will have them in tomorrow. [IMG]http://s10.postimg.org/g6wh14v21/image.jpg[/IMG]
Either drill the bolts out (what I did on the civic) or get a dremel and make a slot for a screwdriver tip.
[img]https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10441003_10152317569901936_7516304501548584314_n.jpg[/img] badged grill and roofrack fitted :)
I all of a sudden grew a boner. One for your truk and the other for the toureg.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;45602982]I all of a sudden grew a boner. One for your truk and the other for the toureg.[/QUOTE] Volkswagen is best wagen :D
Replaced my passenger axle, learned a really cool trick to pop the lower ball joint where you use a crowbar or other metal object which can be pinched between the LCA and spindle by jacking it up, inserting it then lowering it. All you have to do is jump on the spindle and it pops free :v: Took about 3 hours wrestling it trying to get it out without touching the lower ball joint, but that was the only way and it literally just fell out. Now my car goes straight and there isn't a greaseless axle that's going to seize and break apart. Tonight I put on the new wheels and Friday when I get the center cap stickers I'll post pics! Sold my CRX seats too so now it's time for an alarm! Keyless retrofit, earbleeding interior siren and backup battery, oh yeah!
I took all the door panels off the old Chrysler and thoroughly greased the lock mechanisms. No more slow, sticky power locks! Didn't even cost anything.
Took the Civic for a quick test drive and absolutely fell in love with how smoothly it rides now compared to the terribly off alignment, breaking axle, 4 bent wheels and mismatched tires with one being on bands 2 being 70% and one being 30%. Honestly, it feels exactly like a small tight peppy hatchback version of my Integra which is exactly what it is and should be. I feel incredibly sorry for anyone who's driven, rode in or owned one of these cars that hasn't been in good shape because there's a very drastic difference that you won't ever feel unless you put wider wheels on it and actually have everything on the car in working shape. Now I just need to finish off the suspension plans I have for it which have a budget of about $50 which has the possibility of changing the car up pretty significantly into a very well rounded handling but ghetto budget car.
changed upper control arms/thrust arms on my dads e34, it was shaking like a motherfucker before when braking and going 80-100km/h, clucking over speed bumps and shit. replaced them with some I had off of a stripped 535i and now it's just driving straight, no vibrations AT ALL, no clunks, no nothing. it's like a brand new car.
Alternator crapped out in my 2004 Mustang. Was a mother fucker to take it out because its pre-owned and I guess since it came from Florida, the humid air must've rusted a lot of the parts. BUT, finally fucking managed to get it out. Now to just go buy a new one and install that and good to GO! [editline]6th August 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Psygo;45608518]changed upper control arms/thrust arms on my dads e34, it was shaking like a motherfucker before when braking and going 80-100km/h, clucking over speed bumps and shit. replaced them with some I had off of a stripped 535i and now it's just driving straight, no vibrations AT ALL, no clunks, no nothing. it's like a brand new car.[/QUOTE] Mine starts to shake at about 50-65 MPH. Not sure why. Any answers?
[QUOTE=NoobieWafer223;45610516]Alternator crapped out in my 2004 Mustang. Was a mother fucker to take it out because its pre-owned and I guess since it came from Florida, the humid air must've rusted a lot of the parts. BUT, finally fucking managed to get it out. Now to just go buy a new one and install that and good to GO! [editline]6th August 2014[/editline] Mine starts to shake at about 50-65 MPH. Not sure why. Any answers?[/QUOTE] Wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings...
[QUOTE=Siminov;45610539]Wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings...[/QUOTE] Think it could be the axle? A month or so ago I had to make an immediate stop going about 50MPH cause some stupid dog ran out in the middle of the road. Since then it started the shaking.
[QUOTE=NoobieWafer223;45610584]Think it could be the axle? A month or so ago I had to make an immediate stop going about 50MPH cause some stupid dog ran out in the middle of the road. Since then it started the shaking.[/QUOTE] More likely suspension then an axle, stopping that hard will put massive strain on the front suspension parts, namely ball joints and bushings. You'll want to check there first and see if anything is warped or generally out of place.
[QUOTE=NoobieWafer223;45610584]Think it could be the axle? A month or so ago I had to make an immediate stop going about 50MPH cause some stupid dog ran out in the middle of the road. Since then it started the shaking.[/QUOTE]do you have an e34? if you do, go under it with a breaker bar of some kind and try to stuff it between control arms, they're pretty simple to change if you have a well maintained one. [editline]6th August 2014[/editline] also it doesn't start to shake at 80-100km/h, that's when it shakes, past 100 it ran smooth. [editline]6th August 2014[/editline] but yeah if it's on a mustang and it's a shake from there and up, it's probably just worn out front suspension in general, my e30 does it at 90-100km/h and up aswell.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/RMllnwv.jpg[/t] Hacking two fuel pumps together Also vacuumed the volvo [t]http://i.imgur.com/QjmKQ8E.jpg[/t]
Today I started installing my Spal 4 door power locking kit in the Cavalier. It took a while to find the best spot for the actuator and bending the rod juuuust right so everything isn't stiff. After having a difficult time getting power and a ground, I ended up just neatly running the other three wires and tidying up my subwoofer wiring so I can get the other three actuators installed tomorrow. [t]http://i.imgur.com/0m5A9RH.jpg[/t]
Got some new gauges [IMG]http://s11.postimg.org/p3x9dj5mb/IMG_0047.jpg[/IMG] Set the car back on the ground. Buttoned up all of the suspension, did a poor-man's wheel alignment (just to get me to the shop for professional alignment), and slapped the fenders back on. I have to say, the panels and hood fit near perfect without any panel alignment. woot woot! [IMG]http://s11.postimg.org/4v9vrt6b7/IMG_0043.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=JC2Gamer1456;45644207]Got some new gauges [IMG]http://s11.postimg.org/p3x9dj5mb/IMG_0047.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE] Yup, those are the ones I asked you to buy, thanks bro. I'll give you the adress to forward the package to. You forgot the boost gauge, no worries, I'll just have you buy one later. [editline]10th August 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=benjgvps;45643573]Today I started installing my Spal 4 door power locking kit in the Cavalier. It took a while to find the best spot for the actuator and bending the rod juuuust right so everything isn't stiff. After having a difficult time getting power and a ground, I ended up just neatly running the other three wires and tidying up my subwoofer wiring so I can get the other three actuators installed tomorrow. [t]http://i.imgur.com/0m5A9RH.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] I had to run my actuator rod like this in my back doors, and it failed, I had it bent exactly like you did because the rod goes horizontal. It quit coming apart when I moved the actuator down towards the same level as the rod. Just saying you may experience difficulties.
[QUOTE=Serj22;45644279]Yup, those are the ones I asked you to buy, thanks bro. I'll give you the adress to forward the package to. You forgot the boost gauge, no worries, I'll just have you buy one later. [/QUOTE] XD I have had my eye on the Phantom gauges for quite some time. Just waiting on the bezel now so I can mount it all and wire it up.
Replaced the ujoint and swapped tires/wheels with the Chief so tyrone is sittin pretty on some turbines with All terrains right now. [img]http://puu.sh/aLpYI/d6344bc112.jpg[/img] Bleh, Jersey plates aren't embossed anymore.
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