[QUOTE=Scientwist;45705242]What is the general method for a trans flush?[/QUOTE]
For a manual it's typically remove drain bolt, let all fluid drain, clean magnetic end of drain bolt, reinstall drain bolt, pour new fluid in via dipstick hole (if it doesn't have a fill hole).
[QUOTE=Gulen;45706016]Damn, even your hair is messy. Also, what's with all your glue guns? And what's all that shit hanging on the rack in the background?[/QUOTE]
Lol!! It's dyed black and gets to be a fuzzy mess. Even worse after a long day like it was in the pic.
Those guns are..
1 white glue gun
1 red heat gun
1 black soldering gun
All the racks are full of radio install parts.. harnesses, antenna adapters, dash kits, etc.
S-twist.. trans flushes involve unhooking a trans cooler line then hooking up a 'flush machine' in between where you unhooked it and where it goes back into the car. you start the car, idle it in D or N or w/e the car requires (different on different cars, IIRC) and then flip a valve on the machine and it'll pump all the old oil into a reservoir which pushes new oil in in its place. The ones I've used have a little looking glass that you can watch the oil color as it comes in. Just keep it pumping until it's cherry red. Then unhook the machine and hook the line back up!
Don't do it if the car's gone over 100k mi without one, though.
[QUOTE=clutch2;45655242]Here's the finished up hood project;
First I knocked down the texture in the clear with 400, followed by sanding the whole hood with 600
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Much flatter now you can see
Then I loaded up and shot clear onto it until I was happy enough with the finish
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Let it cure for the afternoon then mounted it. Also, bonus this is all 3 of my vehicles in one picture!
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Streetlights make flake and pearl look super wet. Always looks nice at night that way
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I have a long time before I need the cav done.. so I'll poke along here n there.[/QUOTE]
Nice job on the hood, what did you use to paint it?
Thnx mang. I shot the flake out of a cheap Sata gun, and color/clear I sprayed with my Iwata LPH-400 gun.
The red base was martin senior basecoat from Napa, flake was SparkleFX red .008" flake sprayed in House of Kolor intercoat flake carrier, and clear was about 1/2 gallon of Finish1 catalyzed clearcoat.
Mostly stuff I had layin around, cheap clearcoat and stuff.
Took home a Ford Focus 2002 SVT in black 3 days ago. Left tierod was wiggling badly, making the wheel shake pretty bad at 50mph+ so I replaced both left and right tierods and that fixed the vibration problem. Next up was bleeding the brake lines cause I was pretty sure the rear right brake wasnt grabbing cause of air, (the disk wasnt shiny) but I dont know, I just bled it and put new brake fluid in. Cleaned the highlights with some 3M stuff and a drill and it worked pretty good. The rear right lower control arm is about to break from rusting so I bought a new one of those and the right front hub has a stud broken off, so I have to read how to fix that. Otherwise fun stuff. I didn't take any pictures of the work today but heres a pic of the car:
[IMG]http://puu.sh/aVETK/532d9f1fb9.JPG[/IMG]
And the broken stud:
[IMG]http://puu.sh/aVEWC/07f87752ee.PNG[/IMG]
OH and I broke the front left nipple on the brake caliper cause it was rusted to shit.
[sp]he said nipple[/sp]
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;45712770][sp]he said nipple[/sp][/QUOTE]
It's cause wheelstud is an even funnier word.
After a massive delay that is completely related to me being lazy and not wanting to solder, I finally have a "new" mostly working stereo. I need to figure out why all the AM/FM channels don't come through, but the CD and tape work!
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/celica/Resized/2014-08-16%2019.23.01.jpg[/t]
So we unloaded the MR2 today and yep, it's definitely got some electrical issues.
For example, when the headlights are down, the radio doesn't want to work, but the radio does work to a degree. The dash lights are dim sometimes and it seems like there are some things that simply don't have enough power while other things are going. It also seems like nothing motor-wise is getting power.
What do you guys suggest I start with?
I'm not even sure how to start with this sort of issue.
I suggest you build yourself a new wiring harness :v:
Good ol' yota electrical gremlins
[QUOTE=deathmog;45713290]So we unloaded the MR2 today and yep, it's definitely got some electrical issues.
For example, when the headlights are down, the radio doesn't want to work, but the radio does work to a degree. The dash lights are dim sometimes and it seems like there are some things that simply don't have enough power while other things are going. It also seems like nothing motor-wise is getting power.
What do you guys suggest I start with?
I'm not even sure how to start with this sort of issue.[/QUOTE]
A good start would be to look up everything on the MR2's electrical then from there check every ground point you can find and trace every wire to and from the fuse block or each one if theres more then one.
Most electrical issues come from a bad ground or a rubbed wire, corrosion is prevalent on wire outside the cabin or in areas that leak in the rain. Just keep at it, there are only so many wires to check before you find all the issues, at that point all the gremlins will be obliterated with working bits and motors and lights and shit.
Okay, i've got to head to autozone tomorrow because I lost my cheap multimeter, do you guys think I should pick anything up?
Also I found out that i've got OBD1, and i'm curious to see if any codes are being shot (even though I doubt i'd be able to check with the electrical issues) - what should I do in terms of a code checker?
[editline]17th August 2014[/editline]
I just realized that my brother just bought 3,000 dollars worth of Snap-On tools too, I guess I have that going for me
[QUOTE=deathmog;45713608]I just realized that my brother just bought 3,000 dollars worth of Snap-On tools too, I guess I have that going for me[/QUOTE]
So...a couple of wrenches?
[QUOTE=deathmog;45713290]So we unloaded the MR2 today and yep, it's definitely got some electrical issues.
For example, when the headlights are down, the radio doesn't want to work, but the radio does work to a degree. The dash lights are dim sometimes and it seems like there are some things that simply don't have enough power while other things are going. It also seems like nothing motor-wise is getting power.
What do you guys suggest I start with?
I'm not even sure how to start with this sort of issue.[/QUOTE]
Like, you run the wipers and the headlights dim? That could be a poor battery or ground connection at the battery or the main ground from the battery to the body.
Measure voltage at the battery itself and make sure when the engine's idling at like 13V or so for system voltage at the batt. From there check to see if there's voltage drops from - post to chassis metal, etc.
The driveshaft center support rubber donut thing was badly torn up, and was probably causing that horrible noise so I pulled the driveshaft.
That was probably the smoothest anything has ever gone for me in my limited wrenching experience.
excited to make my rockauto order on monday and get her back on the road.
[QUOTE=clutch2;45713725]Like, you run the wipers and the headlights dim? That could be a poor battery or ground connection at the battery or the main ground from the battery to the body.
Measure voltage at the battery itself and make sure when the engine's idling at like 13V or so for system voltage at the batt. From there check to see if there's voltage drops from - post to chassis metal, etc.[/QUOTE]
I actually tried the wipers while the lights were on, and it didn't work even though it seemed like it wanted to. We've noticed different things dim at different times too.
I had that in mind as well, but I tend to forget and fail to articulate information.
Speaking of car stuff, I worked on a friends 97 Altima and it seems to be having a p0301 and p0325 issue and the 0325 problem seems to be famous. I did the usual, check cap and rotor wires and plugs. The cap had some shmoots on it I cleaned with ease as did the rotor, the wire measured good ohms and the plug fires just like it should. I can't check cylinder pressure because I managed to lose my compression tester somewhere and I think it's been claimed.
So finding out if it's mechanical is out of the question because the car's days are numbered for being owned by said friend. It still runs rough but for a moment before I fucked with the EGR it ran smooth as silk so I'm thinking it's a bunch of shit on the EGR, I'd have cleaned but I'm out of carb cleaner.
And the worst offender on this car is the transmission, it has a very hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd and has 175k miles on it so it's on it's way out no doubt. Any ideas on what to help it shift better? I'd assume Slick50 and Lucas are out of the question.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/7fVZb3b.jpg[/t]
My Dad and I spent the day getting this fucker out.
Good fucking riddance!
Clutch pedals are also in but didn't take a picture.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45713796]I had that in mind as well, but I tend to forget and fail to articulate information.
Speaking of car stuff, I worked on a friends 97 Altima and it seems to be having a p0301 and p0325 issue and the 0325 problem seems to be famous. I did the usual, check cap and rotor wires and plugs. The cap had some shmoots on it I cleaned with ease as did the rotor, the wire measured good ohms and the plug fires just like it should. I can't check cylinder pressure because I managed to lose my compression tester somewhere and I think it's been claimed.
So finding out if it's mechanical is out of the question because the car's days are numbered for being owned by said friend. It still runs rough but for a moment before I fucked with the EGR it ran smooth as silk so I'm thinking it's a bunch of shit on the EGR, I'd have cleaned but I'm out of carb cleaner.
And the worst offender on this car is the transmission, it has a very hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd and has 175k miles on it so it's on it's way out no doubt. Any ideas on what to help it shift better? I'd assume Slick50 and Lucas are out of the question.[/QUOTE]
P0301 almost guaranteed intake gasket failure. Vacuum leak @ idle, runs like shit but runs OK at speed??
Go spray carb cleaner near where the intake meets the head by cyl 1 near the injector. If the idle changes you have yourself a terrible job ahead of you. Like a $15 gasket and an afternoon of not being happy.
Check out some videos and prepare with the right tools.. some of the bolts are really, really awful to get to. Need a slimline ratcheting 12mm to survive.
[QUOTE=clutch2;45714063]P0301 almost guaranteed intake gasket failure. Vacuum leak @ idle, runs like shit but runs OK at speed??
Go spray carb cleaner near where the intake meets the head by cyl 1 near the injector. If the idle changes you have yourself a terrible job ahead of you. Like a $15 gasket and an afternoon of not being happy.
Check out some videos and prepare with the right tools.. some of the bolts are really, really awful to get to. Need a slimline ratcheting 12mm to survive.[/QUOTE]
I happen to have one of those 12mm, the head pivots too. :v:
I sprayed a bit of water on it at start with the engine cool but got no change so I'll try carb cleaner next time I got at it. It also hesitates something fierce at times and sputters and messing with the MAF gets odd results. I'd imagine I'm going to need Right Stuff to help reduce this issue from occurring in the future but I may not even wind up fixing this thing, the girls uncle gets back tuesday and may just help her get this prelude shes been looking at.
Also, are 99 preludes any good? How is the H22 in it? I can't remember which of Honda's 4cyl blocks (f, h, k or b) is the nightmare and which is the go-to for being reliable.
iirc H motors are known for leaking oil and blowing up, unless they've been taken care of. :v:
[QUOTE=Dysplasia;45713746]The driveshaft center support rubber donut thing was badly torn up, and was probably causing that horrible noise so I pulled the driveshaft.
That was probably the smoothest anything has ever gone for me in my limited wrenching experience.
excited to make my rockauto order on monday and get her back on the road.[/QUOTE]
Yep that will do it...
Check the U joints while it is out too.
When you put the driveshaft back together there are two arrows to mark the balance point of the whole unit. If you put it in wrong its gonna be a very uncomfortable ride.
Nice! The surfaces are ok - but the bits around the edges are almost falling apart! This is a 4 year old car, lol
[IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/bwEmyKf.jpg[/IMG_thumb]
that's pretty common, rotors are un-treated steel.. the only reason the braking surface stays shiny is because the pads constantly scrub it.
[QUOTE=TheStabbyBunny;45719050]Nice! The surfaces are ok - but the bits around the edges are almost falling apart! This is a 4 year old car, lol
[IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/bwEmyKf.jpg[/IMG_thumb][/QUOTE]
I'd just pressurewash them and spray on a solid coat of high-temp/caliper paint.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45714383]I happen to have one of those 12mm, the head pivots too. :v:
I sprayed a bit of water on it at start with the engine cool but got no change so I'll try carb cleaner next time I got at it. It also hesitates something fierce at times and sputters and messing with the MAF gets odd results. I'd imagine I'm going to need Right Stuff to help reduce this issue from occurring in the future but I may not even wind up fixing this thing, the girls uncle gets back tuesday and may just help her get this prelude shes been looking at.
Also, are 99 preludes any good? How is the H22 in it? I can't remember which of Honda's 4cyl blocks (f, h, k or b) is the nightmare and which is the go-to for being reliable.[/QUOTE]
The H23 non-vtec motor is the shit heap, the H22 is OKAY but has the same problems but isn't gutless as well and worth keeping. They also all have FRM so you need a specialized machine shop to hone them or you're going to send it somewhere to get it sleeved.. You can also swap it with a F20B if you ever have problems which are somewhat better in reliability terms. You also get the bigger brakes which is nice.
The 5th gens are not bad but they are a tad on the heavy side compared to the Integra. Your biggest issue will be finding a clean one as a beat up abused one is going to be a total nightmare.
The other day I snagged a MoMo ebrake handle from a junkyard car for $2. Put that in the Corolla and made a boot for it to dress it up a bit. Quick evening project
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This is how to properly hold the handle
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Pinch and roll
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Time to slip this ghetto thing in
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Ready to slide sideways. FWD doritu champion
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And kept sanding the piss out of the cavalier.
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Once I finished bodyworking the dents as much as I cared to do I hit it with primer today between rain showers. Stupid as fuck. Got some sprinkles in the primer but w/e.. just gonna sand it off and hit it with another coat anywho if I need to.
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so I replaced the head gasket on my chevy cavalier, put a new starter on it, got a map sensor/valve thing for the throttle body, put a new radiator fan in it and changed the oil twice, along with put brand new coolant in it and even replaced a busted radiator hose. it ran for a week, and started to overheat again. i put a new thermostat in it, drove it, overheated again and wouldn't start. so i figured ok this battery has been through hell, so i got a new battery. (probably should of tested it but it made sense at the time.) nope, still doesn't start. think while driving it with the new thermostat in and having not opened yet and overheating, i blew the head gasket again.......... now i have no car. and $500ish later no money.
i have a fun video to lighten the mood of my stupid fucking horn i rigged to pass inspection though the week it was running.
edit: also i had to get my cylinder head resurfaced. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :(
[video=youtube;tM1myvGupo4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tM1myvGupo4[/video]
:/ did ya torque the head bolts to the right spec in the right pattern and stuff??
The thermostat wasn't opening? That may have just been air that hadn't been bled out air locking it. Bummer man.
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