It could also be the pump, it's not totally unheard of to get a bad one right from the store. You also made sure the lines on the sender are clear right?
The connectors being dirty also makes sense, went through that on the stanza too.
We haven't checked the sender yet. But that is a good idea. We're going go through a full troubleshoot soon.
Edit:
Tightened the hoses.
[video=youtube;lzsOCYMmz5E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzsOCYMmz5E[/video]
[video=youtube;tzeYS1qtEew]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzeYS1qtEew[/video]
Made a day of junkyarding on Saturday, picked up a bunch of stuff for the truck... a lot of which I wasn't even looking for but saw and was like hey a cool factory thing that mine doesn't have so I grabbed anyway. Got some factory floor mats, factory mudflaps, factory (I think, it says NISSAN on it lol) rubber bed mat, fan shroud (mine was missing), rad fan (was all mangled up from hitting old shroud apparently), starter, windshield washer reservoir/cap, tailgate handle (plastic part cracked), shift knobs (came with some weird CF ones that didn't even fit), some splash guards, and a battery tray/tiedown.
Got all that stuff installed eventually and was running errands yesterday when it developed a loud ticking/knocking sound in the top end of the motor... so I pulled the valve cover today and as predicted one of the hydraulic lash adjusters is collapsed so there is some play in the rocker for cylinder #2 on the exhaust side... buh. Also noticed I apparently need a new timing chain guide, a common issue with the KA24E:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/zxBnWC1.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/gGD49Bh.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/cejHU4s.jpg[/t]
Wonder where the rest of it is... this should be fun :v:
replaced my swaybar and endlink bushings with polyurethane, shits awesome.
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;45885676]Made a day of junkyarding on Saturday, picked up a bunch of stuff for the truck... a lot of which I wasn't even looking for but saw and was like hey a cool factory thing that mine doesn't have so I grabbed anyway. Got some factory floor mats, factory mudflaps, factory (I think, it says NISSAN on it lol) rubber bed mat, fan shroud (mine was missing), rad fan (was all mangled up from hitting old shroud apparently), starter, windshield washer reservoir/cap, tailgate handle (plastic part cracked), shift knobs (came with some weird CF ones that didn't even fit), some splash guards, and a battery tray/tiedown.
Got all that stuff installed eventually and was running errands yesterday when it developed a loud ticking/knocking sound in the top end of the motor... so I pulled the valve cover today and as predicted one of the hydraulic lash adjusters is collapsed so there is some play in the rocker for cylinder #2 on the exhaust side... buh. Also noticed I apparently need a new timing chain guide, a common issue with the KA24E:
Wonder where the rest of it is... this should be fun :v:[/QUOTE]
Post some pics of dat hardbody, I also have the ka24e but in my 240sx haha
Aight. This car is ready to drive. Other than a few vacuum leaks. I need to get a vacuum T and such. Also, does any one have an idea of why I can't get the headlamps to go up? I doubt the motors went bad (I can test those tomorrow) or what?
vacuum lines
They're electric. Checked the fuse, neither side is hot for some reason. So somehow there's no power before the fuse box.
Found out my u joint got worse and is causing vibrations, ordered 3 new u joints for the driveshaft. Also my charging issue is most likely my positive battery cable
It's now green...
[QUOTE=Lerlth;45886643]They're electric. Checked the fuse, neither side is hot for some reason. So somehow there's no power before the fuse box.[/QUOTE]
If its electric, is the relay before or after the fusebox? Or is it something completely random (never messed with electric ones, going on assumptions) As for the fusebox, if theres some controller/relay AFTER it, it wouldnt make sense because there is normally one hot wire coming in.
If the controller/relay was BEFORE the fusebox, i could see some issues coming up in there.
I'll pull a schematic in AllData tomorro if I remember <3
13 hour day at the shop today.. that was.. arduous.
Took the 5 speed transmission off of a QR25DE 2004 Nissan Sentra SXE at school last night. Had to stay until we finished reassembling the car and cleaned shop at 12:30am. "We" broke one of the axles getting it out. Lets call him X, he took the axle immediately after removing it and swung it around like his genitals and dropped it and it exploded ball bearing and rings everywhere. Our instructor reassembled it with zip ties.
[editline]4th September 2014[/editline]
All hail AllData!
Lol
[QUOTE=Lerlth;45886643]They're electric. Checked the fuse, neither side is hot for some reason. So somehow there's no power before the fuse box.[/QUOTE]
If it's before the fuse box disconnect the battery and find out which wire color it is you were testing from the connector in the fuse box, I say disconnect the battery because you'll need to pull the fuse box apart and you don't want to accidentally short something, then after writing it down and reconnecting the battery check the wire for power. If it still has no power follow it as far back as you can, check it along the way using a simple test light. You may find a break or you'll find at it's farthest the spot it's losing power. Then from there you can fix it.
It may also be losing power right at the spot the female blade makes contact with the wire, I've had that issue before myself.
Spent the morning swapping the 7-pin towing electrics on my car to the new Euro 13-pin type (With reverse lighting, fixed and switched power for a caravan). In the process I redid any dodgy connections the previous owner had done, it was all wrap+tape. I soldered and heatshrunk.
Tests fine, All ready for a trailer =)
The new 13-pin sockets are an MOT test item, hope it passes when the time comes.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;45889447]
The new 13-pin sockets are an MOT test item, hope it passes when the time comes.[/QUOTE]
Man, you guys have some weird laws. Why can't you just use an adapter?
It's not so much that the 13 pin socket itself is a requirement, if your car has the old 7 pin (12N) socket you can keep it and use it and they aren't (as far as I know) on the VOSA list of test items so can be left alone.
However, the 7 pins socket (12N) doesn't have the reverse light circuit. All Post-2008 Caravans and trailers have reverse lights and, subsequently, the 13 pin or dual 7 pin (12N+12S) connector. My options were to fit the extra 12S connector or swap out for the Euro 13-pin connector.
My tow-bar only has the space for a single connector so I opted for the 13 pin socket. I could not be assed welding on a new plate, electrics are more my thing ;)
Our laws state that if the vehicle has a light, it must work. Therefore if the caravan has reverse lights in its cluster the lights must function. In particular the regulation governing this is the "Construction and Use regulations (1986)" IIRC. Hence an adapter would work physically but would leave me without working reverse lights and open to possible fines if a particularly arsey copper takes note.
It is a strange anomaly that the 7 pin sockets are not an MOT item whereas the 13 pin is. A rule that came into effect Jan 2012.
I'd rather have all the lights working anyway, I intend to tow in France and frankly the French traffic police (Gendarmerie?) scare the shit out of me :v: I've done a road trip to France every year since I passed my test and it still leaves me on edge.
My left and right brake lights are lit constantly, and only my HMBL works with the brake pedal. Any ideas on diagnosis?
How do I got about data logging my A/F ratio?
I put some aggressive cams in my car, had it tuned. And I feel it's running rich at idle. But don't know how to find out? I have no cats, so the exhaust always smelly. But now it's like doubled. I think i'm in the single digit MPG at this point.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;45891023]My left and right brake lights are lit constantly, and only my HMBL works with the brake pedal. Any ideas on diagnosis?[/QUOTE]
Check the wires, sounds like you've got the running and brake light wires messed up.
Going to try and find the wiring problem with my brake lights tomorrow. I detailed all of my nasty grimy windows and rear view mirror. I tried to remove the rear view mirror to clean above it, and the washer that holds it in place is too pliable to hold it in place now. I broke multiple tools trying to disassemble the clip. So I went and bought this because it was most likely cheaper than getting replacement parts from the dealership.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/A9zqhvG.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=teslacoil;45891023]My left and right brake lights are lit constantly, and only my HMBL works with the brake pedal. Any ideas on diagnosis?[/QUOTE]
If it's a nissan or honda check at the brake switch, there is sometimes a small rubber grommit kinda thing there on the brake arm and if it goes bad, and usually there are 2 and both go at the same time, it'll leave your brake lights on and your shift lock wont function anymore. Like shift with out pushing the brakes.
If that's not the case your brake switch may have failed, some switches are double pole and run the high mount separate from the normal lights.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;45893456]If it's a nissan or honda check at the brake switch, there is sometimes a small rubber grommit kinda thing there on the brake arm and if it goes bad, and usually there are 2 and both go at the same time, it'll leave your brake lights on and your shift lock wont function anymore. Like shift with out pushing the brakes.
If that's not the case your brake switch may have failed, some switches are double pole and run the high mount separate from the normal lights.[/QUOTE]
Hyundai Accent. I've had to reassemble the brakelight switch multiple times due to it coming apart. I still hear and feel the switch clicking on and off through brake travel, but the left and right brakelights are on constantly. I may just have to reverse the bulbs. I'll check both sides of the circuit until I find the fault tomorrow.
If there was anything close to a MOT test here in the US there would never be any cars on the road
Speaking of MOT, the J20 is almost ready for inspection! So far we've:
Changed oil (and filter) in engine and transfer case
Topped up the oil in the axles (I think the rear one might be leaking, we had to pour in quite a lot of oil. I also noted when fixing the rear brakes that there was a bit of old oil around them)
Put new brake lines in the rear
Changed the rear brake cylinders
Cleaned, greased up and changed a piston on the front brakes
Repaired the rusted front holders for the rear leaf springs
Changed the ignition lock, which just broke all of a sudden
Fixed the vacuum controlled defroster/foot warmer switches
Repaired some rust on the cab, still a fuckload left. I mean shit, this thing is rusted to hell and back. Not weird seeing as it's been sitting outside in the same location for maybe 15 years.
Soldered a nipple on the fuel tank
Made a battery holder
Got a brand new Optima redtop battery with 815CCA. The starter really spins now, we had a new cheapo battery at first but it was just crap compared to this.
Changed the serpentine belt
And more things which I can't remember off the top of my head. There's still a load of things to fix but it should be able to pass inspection soon. Having a car lift and a brake tester at home really helps.
[editline]5th September 2014[/editline]
Oh right we fixed the exhaust too, 3 inch all the way with 1 muffler (okay two, but that's just to pass inspection. We'll take it off when we pass). The V8 diesel sounds so god damn good.
Guys what do I do about all the rust starting on the bottom of my car. I don't want it to die anytime soon :(
Get rust protection? you can buy that oily shit and get a guy specialized in it coat your belly with it. Not sure if you have it where you live but I use Dinitrol.
Here's the power headlights circuit for that 89 daytona!!
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234023/daytona1_zpsaa5fedcc.png.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234023/daytona1_zpsaa5fedcc.png[/IMG][/URL]
Today's project.... a 1998 Jaguar Van Den Plas for a full system. This car is gorgeousssssss. Pcs later.
Been working on my 86 Camaro today trying to solve a problem, maybe one of you guys can help.
A couple weeks ago I drove around and when I came home and turned off the car, there was an electrical hum coming from under the hood, and while I thought it went away after turning it on and off several times, the next time I went to drive it the battery had been drained all the way.
Now flash forward to yesterday, I replaced the battery with a new one, but when I started the car the voltage was still low (hovering between 8-10 instead of the normal 13ish). I disconnected the battery after that and set up with my mechanic for today.
Driving there today the gauge was indicating between 8-10 volts the whole way, bottoming out the gauge at some points, and when my mechanic had a look the only electrical drain he could find was that my power antenna motor was running constantly (but since it doesn't work its probably been doing that forever), and while he disconnected it it didn't solve the issue.
On the way home the voltage was even lower than it was on the way there, and when I got home the mysterious electrical hum returned when I turned off the car. I popped the hood and disconnected the battery, which killed the sound, but I still have no idea what could be causing the issue.
The hum seems to come from the lower center of the engine, and is the same sort of sound I hear when I leave the car on with the engine off. The sound isn't coming from the alternator, and while I know my starter is due to be replaced that doesn't seem like it would be causing the issue.
Any guesses?
Low volts the entire way makes me think the alternator is bad, but I don't know anything.
I don't know what 3rd gens look like but on 4th gens the radiator is completely hidden from the visible eye from a top-down view - perhaps you're hearing the radiator fans?
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;45903105]Low volts the entire way makes me think the alternator is bad, but I don't know anything.
I don't know what 3rd gens look like but on 4th gens the radiator is completely hidden from the visible eye from a top-down view - perhaps you're hearing the radiator fans?[/QUOTE]
I'll have to give it a look when the sun comes out again tomorrow, the radiator is certainly visible, but I don't recall seeing the radiator fan despite the fact that my shop manual says it takes up almost the entirety of the back of the radiator. Perhaps its shrouding made me miss it.
I still don't think its the alternator, as it does charge the battery while driving, just not enough for any real voltage increase. If the alternator wasn't charging the battery I don't think it would have started again after all the driving its been through today.
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