Well. Here's what's been new.
Door poppers n stuff in a 2Fst4U Avenger
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Original door popper.. toooo small. Used it for a trunk release.
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Air horns
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Dat car
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Cadillac Deville... radio relocation (necessary to keep factory radio hooked into the data system if you replace it with an aftermarket)
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And some Type R components in that
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Did a 2014 F150 for a full wigwag setup ... headlights, turn signals front and rear, fog lights, reverse lights, and license plate lights. Used 14 relays and 1 flasher module
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Had to tag some at the BCM and some at the light bulbs themselves
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234024/IMG_0082_zps58c7e47e.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234024/IMG_0082_zps58c7e47e.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
All the clickies
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Here's the Jaguar 1998 Vanden Plas ready for an overhaul
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Goodies
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New dashkit (CNC cut plexi w/ a jag logo.. but covered with shipping tape in this pic) and the old radio
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Came with a dope wiring diagram. Super helpful
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Factory 6x9 'sub'
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Put a new Alpine 6x9 in with the help of Mr Smashy to open the hole a bit
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234024/IMG_0092_zps78a165f4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234024/IMG_0092_zps78a165f4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
This is how the wires run from front to back. Looking up through the parcel tray from the trunk. You'll notice the gas tank behind the rear seat right underneath here. I drilled a hole near this plug to run all my RCA signal cables, nicen easy
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The factory amp lives above the CD changer. Both are useless now, so I mounted the 4ch in the place of the 6 disc changer using some wood and the factory bracket. Makes running speaker wires really easy cuz I just have to tap them at the factory amp plug like 1' away!
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Speakers mount to the door panels themselves.. odd. But easy!
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Tweeters were hot welded onto the A pillar from the factory.. ground that off and used a little metal and epoxy to mount the new ones.
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Sagging headliner...
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I did some heinous things to get it out the car, but now it's ready for some white fuzzies the owner picked out to recover it with!
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I'll upload a vid of the F150 flashers when I'm not drinking :P
Hey i'm drunk too, im gonna limit my posting to avoid unpleasantness.
Also, I rebuilt a friends cigarette lighter in her 05 stratus, it was filled with what I assume is rust and soda pop. Then a short ride around the block cuz I hate Chrysler stuff to make sure it wasn't going to leave her stranded, I await the call though.
Earlier I changed the rad on a Civic, whose bolts were all rusted solid so I broke the fuckers then put nicer ones in their place. And also rigged the rad fan to come on when the key is in "run" because the owner, my friends dipshit sister, can't be assed to replace the temp sensor proper. What ever, I got paid in LED lights and pizza.
[QUOTE=notrabies;45903078]Been working on my 86 Camaro today trying to solve a problem, maybe one of you guys can help.
A couple weeks ago I drove around and when I came home and turned off the car, there was an electrical hum coming from under the hood, and while I thought it went away after turning it on and off several times, the next time I went to drive it the battery had been drained all the way.
Now flash forward to yesterday, I replaced the battery with a new one, but when I started the car the voltage was still low (hovering between 8-10 instead of the normal 13ish). I disconnected the battery after that and set up with my mechanic for today.
Driving there today the gauge was indicating between 8-10 volts the whole way, bottoming out the gauge at some points, and when my mechanic had a look the only electrical drain he could find was that my power antenna motor was running constantly (but since it doesn't work its probably been doing that forever), and while he disconnected it it didn't solve the issue.
On the way home the voltage was even lower than it was on the way there, and when I got home the mysterious electrical hum returned when I turned off the car. I popped the hood and disconnected the battery, which killed the sound, but I still have no idea what could be causing the issue.
The hum seems to come from the lower center of the engine, and is the same sort of sound I hear when I leave the car on with the engine off. The sound isn't coming from the alternator, and while I know my starter is due to be replaced that doesn't seem like it would be causing the issue.
Any guesses?[/QUOTE]
At 8-10V, I'm surprised it's even running, and it definitely shouldn't crank. Mine is at around 11-11.5, and ignition is definitely worse, lights flicker with the indicators, and the horn doesn't work. Did you check the battery with a multimeter? Could be your gauge.
Any ideas on getting two screws like this out?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/praZSKdl.jpg[/img]
Excuse the camera, it's shit. The heads of both the screws are round and I can't get to them with either pliers or a saw. I can't grab them from the back either. The only thing I can think of to get them out is break the plastic even more and then use vice grips to get them out.
Maybe glue something onto it? I'm not sure how well it would hold.
I wish I was as cool as clutch2... I put in a new third brake light and lost a socket inside the trunk behind the latch somehow. Gonna put in my new fog lights today maybe, pics later
To avoid jinxing it, I didn't post it right away. Though I double checked the current used by my power lock module and trunk release and it was all well within the limits of the second remote starter. Everything has been working flawlessly for the past couple days! I'm so pleased with how it turned out.
Between the aftermarket power locks, stereo, subwoofer and remote starter, the wiring under the dash and around the driver's kick panel is starting to get a bit messy. I may have to throw more zip ties at the problem.
I bought a thing on ebay that arrived yesterday (but I don't live at home now because school so I got it today)
[t]http://puu.sh/bo5kD.jpg[/t]
Then I did some things to the paint:
[t]http://puu.sh/bo5nd.jpg[/t][t]http://puu.sh/bo5oj.jpg[/t]
Then finished that thing and then took a pic of a newly washed and newly polished scoobyroo c:
[t]http://puu.sh/bo5pW.jpg[/t]
Pics don't work
[editline]6th September 2014[/editline]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/Z2kz2X6.jpg[/T]
[editline]later[/editline]
Working now except for first photo
lel, I'll upload the entire post from puush to imgur then :v:
much easier than uploading all the pictures
[t]http://i.imgur.com/wxGiDJf.jpg[/t]
[editline]6th September 2014[/editline]
god dammit, stop working when I do extra shit :c
Everything works for me
[editline]6th September 2014[/editline]
I cleaned out my car yesterday. Gonna be getting some sub's and an amp, but my stereo doesn't have a remote wire. :(
Just use the ACC wire that you stereo uses to turn on. It works almost exactly the same way (except for those rare times when you turn off your stereo)
I was planning on setting up the rear defroster with my remote starter if I could just splice into the defroster button and send a pulse, though it was the only thing not listed in my Haynes manual. Did some googling and from what I've seen, the internal timer seems to be inside the heater controls. Bummer. It looks like I'd need to use a relay and hook up the defroster lines directly if I wanted that to work.
While I had the dash apart, I ended up rerunning the hands-free mic from the stereo cleanly and out of the way. That was the first thing I did to the car, so it was poorly done and it had been bugging me for months... Now it's finally fixed.
I was helping my dad with his A4 again, the brakes were spongy so he bled the brakes a little. They're a bit better, though now they're leaking brake fluid. So he went to open the hood again and... the hood doesn't open. He's having no luck with that car.
What are you trying to do?
Is there a way I can wire a MicroUSB cable into my accessories to charge my phone? My car charger is always disconnecting/not charging/drawing charge from my phone. Having Bluetooth, GPS, Torque, and RaceMeter on depletes a battery pretty fast, as well as overheating it in direct sunlight this time of year.
Here's one [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Charger-DC-Converter-Module-12V-To-5V-3A-15W-with-Micro-USB-Cable-Cu3-/140973971385?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item20d2b417b9"]with Micro USB[/URL]. Personally, I use one [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Converter-Buck-Module-12V-convert-to-5V-USB-output-power-adapter-/141395413289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ebd2c929"]with a USB socket[/URL], because my mom (who's car it is) has an iPhone. To install it, just run the red wire to an accessory wire (I ran mine to the head unit), and ground the black one (you can use an unisolated bolt, or a ground wire, I used the ground for the head unit)
I have a Power inverter plugged into my power outlet and plug my charger into that.
[editline]6th September 2014[/editline]
God damn usb 3.0 phones not getting enough juice from my old car chargers.
What charger do you use? Most of the ones I've seen are 3A (at least the ones that aren't too cheap), which should be plenty for your phone.
I probably need a new battery as well, though. The highest my charging voltage gets is 13.5v and it occasionally drops below 12v.
I'm using the charger that came with my Galaxy tablet, every other charger I have makes a low voltage/slow charge notification pop up on my phone, other than the charger that also came with my phone.
[editline]6th September 2014[/editline]
I think my brothers M8 charger also works.
Yeah, you need to short out the data pins on the USB to tell your phone it can draw more than 500mA. If you go into your battery settings while charging from that charger, it'll probably tell you it's charging from USB, when it should say it's charging from AC.
I'm using a cable that came with my old Razr, the cable charges it fine, but the part I plug in the power socket wouldn't charge it with any cable.
[QUOTE=Gulen;45910165]What are you trying to do?[/QUOTE]
What part of my post are you talking about?
Yeah, that's where Samsung shorted the pins, in the charger (technically, they have a resistor in there, but a short would also work), so you can still use the cable on your computer, and get the full 2-3A when charging.
[editline]7th September 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=benjgvps;45910644]What part of my post are you talking about?[/QUOTE]
The defroster part.
[QUOTE=Gulen;45905602]At 8-10V, I'm surprised it's even running, and it definitely shouldn't crank. Mine is at around 11-11.5, and ignition is definitely worse, lights flicker with the indicators, and the horn doesn't work. Did you check the battery with a multimeter? Could be your gauge.[/QUOTE]
I'm super surprised it was working as well, to the point that I had a friend on call with jumper cables for when I assumed I would inevitably break down. I wasn't using any lights or the stereo while I was driving, but the window motors were extremely slow. Oddly enough the car cranked easily, but I don't have a multimeter yet so I haven't measured the battery directly.
However, today I took in the battery and alternator to Advance, the battery wasn't dead but definitely needed a recharge, and the alternator was apparently so dead that it wouldn't even spin up at the test station.
I then drove 30 minutes to another Advance to pick up a new alternator and its now just waiting for the battery to charge up some more before I test it again.
This is now something like 4 alternators I've been through in 3 years since I was scraping by on used ones, but today I said fuck it and got a new one leaving me with exactly $1 in my wallet.
I'm suspecting that Banana Lord was right about it being the radiator fans staying on, but I also know that all sorts of weird shit can happen when an alternator dies so I'm curious how its gonna turn out. The only other engine/electrical issue I'm aware of is that the starter is dying, but I don't think that would play into this at all.
[QUOTE=Gulen;45910647]The defroster part.[/QUOTE]
I'm trying to get the defroster to come on when the car is remotely started. The easiest way would be to just have the remote starter set to send a negative pulse (I can have it toggle on or send a pulse) to the button on the dash, like how I setup the trunk release. Though from the diagram I found, it appears that the relay and timer are inside the control panel, so I would have to rip it apart in order to get to the button, I was expecting it to just be another pair of wires on the back.
So the other option would be to buy a relay and have it connected so that in it's unpowered state, the defroster is hooked up the the control panel like normal, though when it's triggered by the remote starter, it will be directly connected to power.
EDIT: Or I could just leave the thing disconnected and press the button manually (Like some sort of animal) before I start scraping ice off the windows.
Couldn't you press the button before you shut off the car?
Then it should come on once it is started the next day, correct?
[QUOTE=>VLN<;45912100]Couldn't you press the button before you shut off the car?
Then it should come on once it is started the next day, correct?[/QUOTE]
I was going to suggest that as well.
Nope, that won't work. It takes a momentary pulse to activate the defroster after start.
I'll look it up real quick for dat car
According to this schematic;
[url]http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tracker40/2010-12-13_011459_1.gif[/url]
Do this;
Thick purple wire @ the climate control unit. Meter it. 12v w/ defrost on i should be. Then cut it.
Get a relay. Wire it up like this;
85 - 12v constant
86- remote start status wire (ground while running, w/e you wanna call it)
87 - 12V
30- car side of cut wire
87a - climate control plug side of cut wire.
Then you'll be golden.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;45912100]Couldn't you press the button before you shut off the car?
Then it should come on once it is started the next day, correct?[/QUOTE]
The Firebird is electrical toggle instead of a physical toggle, and AFAIK the Fiero is the same way. So pushing the button doesn't change the button's state, just triggers a relay/timer behind the HVAC panel.
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