• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Lerlth;45928613][video=youtube;B-MuoFXam1s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-MuoFXam1s[/video] All thanks to [URL="http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1250106&p=45898820&viewfull=1#post45898820"]clutch2[/URL] we got the lights working! The board was bad though. Haha.[/QUOTE] Can you see those headlights from the drivers seat when they're up? Hands down the worst thing about the Firebird - you've got no clue your headlights go up and down, you can't see the damn things.
Yup! This car is pretty tiny.
Here's that amp rack [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234028/9-10005_zps940e94f9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234028/9-10005_zps940e94f9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234028/9-10007_zpsf41e6f55.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234028/9-10007_zpsf41e6f55.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234028/9-10006_zps07bd7802.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234028/9-10006_zps07bd7802.jpg[/IMG][/URL] And we did those indiglow gauge thingies in the Eclipse today, too [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234028/9-10004_zps6324b585.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234028/9-10004_zps6324b585.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234028/9-10009_zps792fb91b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234028/9-10009_zps792fb91b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
It. Is. Glorious.
Clutch, your work is absolutely amazing, I'm jealous. Anyways, I dumped 1.5 quarts of oil onto the driveway while burning my hands trying to get hot oil to drain into an oil drip pan during my 2nd oil change on the Mercedes. Then I tried to pop start my 1986 lawn tractor because nothing is working and I wanted to use it, and lets just say first gear and neutral are now one in the same so to speak. Then I spent a day cleaning a Subaru that had sat for two years because the motor went unexpectedly, I had to use 4 buckets of half Purple Power and half water to get it to look remotely nice.( there was enough sand and mouse crap in this car to make one seriously demented sand castle) While I was cleaning the Subie, the mechanics at the shop invented a redneck roofrack: [t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PsJygSBcM5U/VBEddkAat3I/AAAAAAAAAs8/Qig92xpqjwI/w1134-h850-no/2014-09-10.jpg[/t]
I love the amp rack, but I feel like that car wouldn't survive in a city atmosphere for long without a broken rear window...
Now that I'm finally starting to feel better and can actually breath normally I decided to buy some felt and start trying to tackle my cargo cover restoration. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-09-10%2019.33.53.jpg[/t] I have the front piece wrapped now and I trimmed and worked out the corners so they folded through smooth. Now I have to tackle the hard part which will be fixing the rear piece with the indent tray in it in it and figure out a way to smoothly mount 5"(?) speakers and wrap over with felt so everything looks good. I'm planning to re-lay the bottom of the tray with a piece of plywood so that I have a real bottom to it and can avoid from further hacking up the cover. I'm still really unsure how to do this since after I lay the felt the speaker covers I have won't fit into the tray any longer. I'm thinking of making two spacers to go on each side of the speaker to bring the speaker level with the upper part of the cover so that the cover can screw in flater to the top of the tray. However, I'm also just considering hacking up my cargo trays instead but I'm unaware of any decent ways I can do this without making it look like a hack job. I already have some 5" or 5 1/2" speakers but if I go the cargo tray route I'll need 6 1/2" speakers and some sort of spacer basket. If I go the cargo tray route I won't ever have to unplug them either but then I'll have to hack up my rather nice plastic cargo trays. I have a few days to think about this still before I just hack at it. Here's basically the parts I'm dealing with. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-09-02%2016.09.58.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-09-02%2016.10.06.jpg[/t] [t]http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4193/0409071744hk9.jpg[/t](I don't have the speaker ones) [t]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/gunner3011/006-2.jpg[/t][t]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff207/gunner3011/001.jpg[/t] I'm thinking that finding some sort of speaker basket to screw over the trays would probably be the best option at this point but I honestly have no idea.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;45945435]Yup! This car is pretty tiny.[/QUOTE] Fuck yeah that's sick
[QUOTE=clutch2;45946272][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234028/9-10009_zps792fb91b.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/QUOTE] Those remind me so much of Need for Speed underground 2. [B][I]THEY'RE AWESOME[/I][/B]
After struggling for an hour to get a single 2.5mm wire through the firewall into cabin using an existing grommet (for the bonnet release cable) I decided to be smart rather than lazy. The cable was for the fixed 12V supply to the 13 pin trailer connector at the back, so I thought; "Hang on, citroen probably have a towing kit they sell, a high amperage 12V supply must be present near the rear for that" Sure enough, after downloading the fitting instructions for that kit there's a thick white wire stuffed in the pillar. I pulled it out and grabbed my meter to find no power present at all. However I traced it back to the main fusebox in the engine compartment... fitted a nice 20A fuse and BAM I have a permanent 12V feed at the rear of the car. A bit of soldering later and I've got it all hooked up without having to run a single new wire and using a legitimate space in the existing fusebox. The last one to do now is the switched 12V line, which I'm going to provide via a relay off the rear Cig. socket using the newly found perm. 12V. Yay electrics.
[QUOTE=Gulen;45951452]Those remind me so much of Need for Speed underground 2. [B][I]THEY'RE AWESOME[/I][/B][/QUOTE] Dude.. they do! Whoahh If anyone is interested in them for their own car they're simple overlays that you hook up to the parking lights + wire. About $30 or so for most kits. Search 'reverse glow gauges' [img]http://www.topgearautoparts.com/images/products/XG-FRN00.jpg[/img]
Managed to get the I-Sues-yew running decent. Before; Stumbling and stalling when started. Bucking so bad from power loss that you better like your soda well shaken Cleaned EGR valve+tube, cleaned PCV, did the throttle spray trick After: Holyshititsaliiiive. No more bucking, very slight power loss near higher RPMs I also started a Mystery Oil treatment, and will do a second throttle spray treatment later on. Only issue once that's done is the transmission slip between second and third. Transmission was 3-4 quarts low when we bought it, and the whole thing only has 166k miles
[QUOTE=clutch2;45953324]Dude.. they do! Whoahh If anyone is interested in them for their own car they're simple overlays that you hook up to the parking lights + wire. About $30 or so for most kits. Search 'reverse glow gauges' [img]http://www.topgearautoparts.com/images/products/XG-FRN00.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] I always liked the reverse glow, so much in fact that i toyed around with putting a hybrid cluster in a CR-V (the one that came out of the civic) what a nightmare... I repinned every single wire clusterfucking the schematics of both cars together and still got minimal functionality from it. It was cool though. I also got 200mpg on most cases in the fuel mileage window. Hey I found it... This was before: [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/Fnale8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/Fnale8.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/P8270230.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/P8270230.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I also liked that when off, they looked blank. Awwwww.... that car... that marvelously fucked up car... [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/PB210439.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/PB210439.jpg[/IMG][/URL] In other news. I ditched the flexi on my downpipe. It looks like a sculpture now. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/Turbo%20225/IMG_20140909_142755_zpsc706961d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/Turbo%20225/IMG_20140909_142755_zpsc706961d.jpg[/IMG][/URL] And banana lord, it's ok. I forgive you for being in tune with art.
Before: [t]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-frgwxs-kpRo/VBJc2L77u1I/AAAAAAAAAvg/KqWKK6Ah3I4/w1134-h850-no/2014-09-11.jpg[/t] After: [t]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hrwx0JbiTWI/VBJcsTjCUCI/AAAAAAAAAvE/hU5HjRy19kw/w1134-h850-no/2014-09-11.jpg[/t] Free cabinet to stuff my sunglasses in, I had to paint it though because it was brown before.
That weld
[QUOTE=Del91;45957639]That weld[/QUOTE] I know. Carpenter. Never claimed to be good at welding but exhaust shops don't listen to what I want to build and for less cost I went and bought the shit to do it myself. What youre seeing is a glob of jb -I also covered most the complicated welds with jb just in case. People tend to complain about their turbo j pipe welds leaking then putting jb on them, so I just did it from the get go. Its structurally sound, and leak free. Aesthetics I'll deal with later.
Oh it looks like a brick shit house of a weld [editline]11th September 2014[/editline] Not something I would consider weld porn though :v:
16 hours... [t]http://i.imgur.com/OKSVu8v.jpg[/t] Nuff said
Lexia3 Kit came so I was able to make some dealer-level configuration changes to my Citroen. One of which was enabling the Auxiliary inputs on the stock radio. I can now listen to internet radio without using a horrid FM transmitter :D
[QUOTE=zotic;45961051]16 hours... [t]http://i.imgur.com/OKSVu8v.jpg[/t] Nuff said[/QUOTE] i like all your reference marks.
I know you do <3
New passenger window motor/regulator is on. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The old one was pretty gross and the bracket thing attached to the glass was un-silliconeing itself so put some new sillycon on it. Pics when I feel like taking them off my phone.
Modified my flasher relay for LED use, now once I get some more LED bulbs I won't have to deal with hyper-flash because of low current. Here are the sources I used to get it figured out, it's for honda flashers mostly but some of the stuff can be used for other digital flasher units. [url]http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=946301[/url] Dont cut pin 7, use it for reference. I cut it at first and got super hyper-flash. [url]http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=596421[/url] Better information and alot more info on digital flasher stuff. [url]http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/motorola/UAA1041B.pdf[/url] Datasheet on my flashers chip, came in handy. [url]http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm[/url] A resistor calculator, if you have a flasher like mine you'll need a 0.12 ohm resistor to put where the R-shunt resistor is (it's load reading bit). Color code is brown, red, silver and gold use 2 watt or you'll burn up the resistor.
[QUOTE=Squarebob;45972491]New passenger window motor/regulator is on. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The old one was pretty gross and the bracket thing attached to the glass was un-silliconeing itself so put some new sillycon on it. Pics when I feel like taking them off my phone.[/QUOTE] Man I'm jealous, my Camaro needs the same job done on both doors, as well as the power lock actuators, but because its an 86 all the motors are riveted in place.
[QUOTE=notrabies;45973967]Man I'm jealous, my Camaro needs the same job done on both doors, as well as the power lock actuators, but because its an 86 all the motors are riveted in place.[/QUOTE] If it's anything like my 99 Firebird then it's beyond easy to replace the motors. I had to drill out the rivets. My replacement motor came with a screw and nut to go in the rivet's place with the new motor in.
Mustang only had rivets holding a track to the glass so all i had to do was bend down a tab stop and slide off the old and slide on the new assembly and done.
huehuehuehue... Totally fucked myself out of using the kickdown rod I have, and going to HAVE to switch to cables. Freaking cables... There's $120 into the build more that i didn't plan for... escalating to that $1,500 mark pretty quick and was only trying for $1,000. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140913_195634_zps2aa283b1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140913_195634_zps2aa283b1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;45973982]If it's anything like my 99 Firebird then it's beyond easy to replace the motors. I had to drill out the rivets. My replacement motor came with a screw and nut to go in the rivet's place with the new motor in.[/QUOTE] Looking into it more apparently all I have to do is remove the interior door panel and drill out 3 rivets (meaning I don't have to do deal with the nightmarish scissor lift system at all), but I've never worked with power tools before so I'll need to look into them a bit better before I work on that. The other issue is that the power lock actuators are held on with massive rivets that are apparently pretty tough to drill out. On the positive side my window motors are on sale for $40 each as opposed to $195 each, so if I do have to take it to a shop it should end up being cheaper than buying just a pair of motors normally.
Started putting Megan coilovers on the Eclipse today. Did the fronts and tomorrow is the rears and then it's a pebble pusher.
[QUOTE=notrabies;45975228]Looking into it more apparently all I have to do is remove the interior door panel and drill out 3 rivets (meaning I don't have to do deal with the nightmarish scissor lift system at all), but I've never worked with power tools before so I'll need to look into them a bit better before I work on that. The other issue is that the power lock actuators are held on with massive rivets that are apparently pretty tough to drill out. On the positive side my window motors are on sale for $40 each as opposed to $195 each, so if I do have to take it to a shop it should end up being cheaper than buying just a pair of motors normally.[/QUOTE] Sounds just like the Firebird. I literally borrowed a screw gun and drill bits from a friend. I only had to drill through fiberglass to expose the rivets and then the drill had no problem taking out the rivets (excluding the first drill bit which I broke in half :v:) Again, this is for 4th gens, but [url=http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html]this is the guide[/url] I followed.
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