[QUOTE=thattaco;45997160]In the last year I have replace 5 headlight bulbs on moms car.
One stock blew out so I replaced both with silverstar ultras. One lasted 3 months the other about a week longer. So they got normal silverstars. Then 4 months one blew so I replaced just one.
To change a low beam you have to either remove bumper of fender liner. Total pain.
So I ordered so oem xenon headlights. D2s projectors.
I removed the bumper
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Then spent 3 hrs making a wiring harness and a few other things.
All buttoned back up.
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Should last a little longer[/QUOTE]
pics while driving last night
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the light on the ceiling is the light in the parking garage.
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Just an FYI: Most Xenon lights also have leveling sensors in the suspension. Using HIDs without it could be illegal.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46003606]Just an FYI: Most Xenon lights also have leveling sensors in the suspension. Using HIDs without it could be illegal.[/QUOTE]
At least he is using the CORRECT type of housing.
Yup, I had a discussion with a friend of mine the other day about HIDs. He sent me an ad for a V70 with Xenon lights, I pointed out that they might be a curse rather than a blessing, if they were aftermarket in reflector housings. "Don't worry, you just swap it before inspection"
[QUOTE=Gulen;46003606]Just an FYI: Most Xenon lights also have leveling sensors in the suspension. Using HIDs without it could be illegal.[/QUOTE]
yeah i know but it is better than a xenon in a halogen reflector housing.
i set them to the same height as the oem halogen cut off.
this is not my first play with h.i.ds i use to do quite a few retros back in the day. none of this cheap kit stuff.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46003420]Can't wait to get home and attempt to fix the mr2 again
[editline]17th September 2014[/editline]
I've taken the starter out of that thing so many times I might as well be in the olympics if they had a sport for it I swear[/QUOTE]
Its okay, between troubleshooting and the 4 separate alternators I've been through the Camaro has probably been through a dozen different installs. My last attempt was down to under 3 minutes for removal and 5 for putting it back.
[editline]17th September 2014[/editline]
Also got my new starter, gonna see if I can put it in today but I probably won't have enough time.
[editline]17th September 2014[/editline]
I got under the car successfully, but on a first look there was nothing even remotely starter shaped visible.
Tomorrow the fossil excavation begins.
On my truck at least, the starter was on the back passenger side of the motor, next to the bell housing.
[editline]17th September 2014[/editline]
That was an 88 K1500 with a 350.
My turbo manifold (minus the sensor for AFR) is DOOOOOOOOOONE.
I kept taking steps back wondering how I possibly made this. First time making a custom engine component like this.
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I wrapped the whole deal twice with some black header wrap, so hopefully that survives for a while (what shitty looking welds?). I heard it tends to turn grey or white after time. It's all strapped down with stainless ties, and looks rather nice. I guess being able to do a wrap outside the car makes a difference. All my flanges line up with the turbo and I'm debating mounting it down permanently to the pipes, and just have someone help me lift it down into place, since that's the only issue with leaving the spool on (heavy). I went with orange boost referencing leads, and will have a manual boost control mounted on that long support rod - should look pretty spectacular IMO. Hopefully it works well.
Mount it and finish the gas powered cummins already
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46008395]Mount it and finish the gas powered cummins already[/QUOTE]
My walbro electric fuel system showed up. Just need one day to do that, then another few hours to sort out my new ignition system with the newer distributor, MSD control unit, and make sure the governor retards as it's supposed to under boost pressure. Then finish the oil feed system, attach all the gauges, mount the AFR when I buy it so I'm not in the dark on jetting and tuning, then go. It's all the little stuff that adds up. Mounting this manifold is as simple as unbolting the exhaust pipe, putting this in its place, moving the exhaust back 2" and then bolting it to the downpipe, then putting a different carburetor on. That's all simple.
Oh then I get to cut up and put a bead on probably 3 pieces of the aluminum piping. That may take a moment as well. I'm going to fab up a vice grip bead roller with an exhaust clamp and a washer, so the hoses don't just fly off.
I soldered some wires onto the spare remote, hooked it up to my Arduino and wrote some quick code so I could test it using a serial termina. Here's a shitty video that I saved from snapchat of me starting the car with a laptop:
[vid]http://benjeffery.ca/video/2014-09-18_19-49-52.mp4[/vid]
Tomorrow I'll try making a shield with the remote and a temperature sensor and then do a little more testing. I may also extend out the remote starter's Activation Input and trigger that with a relay or something, so there's less to go wrong.
That probably looked real sketchy to people around you, you outside at night with a laptop on a car that suddenly starts.
Haxor, he's probably the guy that leaked all those nudes!
Just fitted the genuine Citroen towing electrics kit, so easy to do. Then plugged in the diag. tool and told the car about its existence.
Worked first time, bulb warnings function when I remove a bulb from the trailer board. Even flashes the indicators twice as fast as an additional warning.
Lord knows how much I saved doing these jobs myself than having the Dealer tackle them.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Audi/IMAG0012.jpg[/t]
The struggle is real.
I put 8 quarts in a 5.3 quart system and its sill in the medium mark. I blame my XXXL Diesel oil filer.
Why are you using a massive oil filter?
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;46025459]Why are you using a massive oil filter?[/QUOTE]
Why not?
Just trying out different things, cutting open them and looking how much I'm filling them up.
[editline]19th September 2014[/editline]
And to be fair I'm over doing the life of the oil, changing at 5k miles instead of 3k on normal dino oil.
Just playign around~~~
Call me crazy, but it seems like there's better things to play around with than the engine of your daily driver :v:
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;46025675]Call me crazy, but it seems like there's better things to play around with than the engine of your daily driver :v:[/QUOTE]
What can I harm?
I'm using oil that's been proven over and under on both diesel and gasoline vehicles.
I'm using a OEM filter, just to happens to be 3x bigger than the one that a regular parts book calls for. (same price for both)
I see nothing wrong here.
I'm using a Mann W 950/4, instead of a Mann W930/21.
Only difference is the bypass valve pressure, but its within spec.
Ugh, Camaro's starter is not changed after an hour or two of busting my back. First I had all of the fun of the car sliding off the jack with the wheel off, which only moved the car an inch or so, but scared the shit out of me even though I wasn't under it.
So after finding a better jack point and testing the waters I decided to leave the wheel on but jacked it up a bit for clearance, which let me get under, but the bolts were stuck on way too well for me to get any of them off. I'm just gonna let my mechanic do it, because while the estimate is for 1.5 hours, with a lift and proper tools its probably a 15 minute job.
The best part of this is that because I live in the city and didn't want to get run over, I was doing all of this in a McDonald's parking lot, which is almost exclusively used by people working on their cars for reasons unknown.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/09s06gA.jpg[/t]
Gave the MR-2 a new ignition coil today, in hopes that it would work.
Last time I tested the voltage for the wires going to it, I did the test incorrectly ( I didn't realize at the time) so I hoped this would be a quick $30 fix.
Nope, and what a fucking bitch to change, god damn.
At least it's nice and shiny now, I guess.
I think the next step that I need to do is definitely check the ignition switch, because I already replaced the ECU with a used but known-good one since it was so cheap (For $30 bucks) and changed this out too.
Also note to self next time I crank the starter, have the person turning the key make sure its in neutral.
It decided to move a few inches before I stopped trying to get it to fire up :v:
If anyone has any ideas let me know because i'm really running out of ideas.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46025791][t]http://i.imgur.com/09s06gA.jpg[/t]
Gave the MR-2 a new ignition coil today, in hopes that it would work.
Last time I tested the voltage for the wires going to it, I did the test incorrectly ( I didn't realize at the time) so I hoped this would be a quick $30 fix.
Nope, and what a fucking bitch to change, god damn.
At least it's nice and shiny now, I guess.
I think the next step that I need to do is definitely check the ignition switch, because I already replaced the ECU with a used but known-good one since it was so cheap (For $30 bucks) and changed this out too.
Also note to self next time I crank the starter, have the person turning the key make sure its in neutral.
It decided to move a few inches before I stopped trying to get it to fire up :v:
If anyone has any ideas let me know because i'm really running out of ideas.[/QUOTE]
Got Spark?
Got Fuel?
When in doubt pour gas down its neck!
It's got gas in it, but i'm not sure if it's receiving fuel, and I have a stronger feeling that it's not getting spark somehow someway.
I REALLY hope my fuel pump isn't bad
If I have to replace that i'm gonna shoot myself because the gas tank is under the center console and aeeuegheghghghh
[QUOTE=deathmog;46026127]It's got gas in it, but i'm not sure if it's receiving fuel, and I have a stronger feeling that it's not getting spark somehow someway.
I REALLY hope my fuel pump isn't bad
If I have to replace that i'm gonna shoot myself because the gas tank is under the center console and aeeuegheghghghh[/QUOTE]
Turn car over and over and over remove spark plugs.
If spark plugs are damp you got fuel.
Leave plug out and attach it to its corresponding wire, grab a glove and ground the plug to anything metal. Turn over car. (get the shop dark if possible) Wait for spark!
(Bonus points if you ground it to yourself instead and wait for the flench fest its how I test our gasoline welding machines)
I've done that, both on purpose and on accident. Lots of very loud yelling and cursing always follows, along with some strange looks.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46026180]I've done that, both on purpose and on accident. Lots of very loud yelling and cursing always follows, along with some strange looks.[/QUOTE]
I end up shocking myself wile stick welding with a fubar'd stinger.
Its all fine and dandy the first ~200 times but if you go threw out the day constantly shocking your hand it gets really tingly and it starts to giggle.
I've learned to just deal with it and it does not really bother me that much anymore. It has became a "BITCH" instead of a "SON OOF A FUCKING WHORE *hand flailing motions* GOD DAMN COCK SUCKER"
>Just called O'rallys
"How may I help you sir?"
>"99 Audi A6 Quattro I need some plugs"
*typign noises over phone*
"Sir It looks like we only have butt plugs instock, What kind do you want?"
>"I would like some Iridium NGK's part number 6418"
*more typing noises over phone*
"Okay sir your delux butt plugs are order'd you need anything else?"
>"Did you make sure to order the lube?"
"Sir we got plenty of lube here for you."
>"Awesome thank you!"
*hangs up*
Welp.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46026127]It's got gas in it, but i'm not sure if it's receiving fuel, and I have a stronger feeling that it's not getting spark somehow someway.
I REALLY hope my fuel pump isn't bad
If I have to replace that i'm gonna shoot myself because the gas tank is under the center console and aeeuegheghghghh[/QUOTE]
Back up a bit. I told you exactly how to check of the pump is working. Pull the fuel line off the fuel rail, turn the key to "on" and the line should spit a little bit of fuel out. Turn key off, then on, should spit again. If it doesn't spit fuel then that doesn't mean the pump is bad. We know the ignition itself doesn't crank the starter, and we also know (if you do the fuel test) that the furl pump won't spit fuel, then possibly the only issue is the ignition itself.
Find the two wires for the fuel pump. Take some 12v speaker wire or whatever you have. Jump the + lead direct to the battery of the car and see if that spits fuel when the car is off. If it does, but the ignition will not make it spit, then ignition is bad. If the fuel pump does not spit... then its bad likely.
Just try and keep from spending money on things that are not broken. Treat it more like detective work. There's no need to dump fuel into the motor when you can simply check the pump.
Also for spark you can still go back to putting a flathead screwdriver near the contact of a spark wire. Or if you're seriously in doubt, take one spark plug boot off, and attach to your finger. Have friend crank car. If it feels like electricity just shocked you... then...
Okay, I'll be honest I got caught up in the electrical aspect of it and neglected to test the fuel pump.
I'm going to try the spark test again because I fucked up the first time, and i'll of course test the fuel pump too. I just wish the weather wasn't shitty like it has been the last few days.
At least it has a new ignition coil! I had a gift card for Advance anyway.
The old one was really bad and really rusty and shitty in a lot of places, namely where the contacts were so I'm not too unhappy with getting a new one.
I'll also test out the ignition tomorrow after work if i'm not dead from the hard work of hawking computers at Staples.
Sorry if I seem bullheaded with this, I've been working sporadically and I've been really busy with work and college and some stuff keeps slipping my mind.
No worries, just be aware if the fuel pump is bad... you'll wish you saved the money. Good ones are not cheap.
Yeah, i've heard that they can be expensive.
Hopefully mine is fine.
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