[QUOTE=CubeManv2;46052073]yes , 6.1 hemi sparkplug replacement is a bitch and a half gotta remove coil packs etc.[/QUOTE]
Are the coil packs really that difficult to remove though? A lot of cars have coils on the plug, mine just has a ignition cassette which sits in the middle of the valve cover with all four coils.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46055350]Are the coil packs really that difficult to remove though? A lot of cars have coils on the plug, mine just has a ignition cassette which sits in the middle of the valve cover with all four coils.[/QUOTE]
nope, its a couple of bolts. just like any other car.
[url]http://tootwrench.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-change-spark-plugs-2008-dodge.html[/url]
didn't expect to find this but its the exact year as his, this looks easy as shit. You don't need to need to lie, its okay to not want to work on cars.
Well its just my luck that despite being named Self Service Garage, they stopped doing self service in April.
Off to a standard shop I go :(
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46053922]Go here and follow Aetna's instructions on getting some info for your car.
[url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1213187[/url]
You [i]will[/i] find wiring info for your car there.[/QUOTE]
Couldnt find much on mine except for some technical bulletins. Like, there was one that said that dealers should stop putting advertisements on the 3rd brake light :v:
Went to my mechanic and he was closed for reasons unknown, so I went to another shop and they got the starter in for $90 when the estimates were closer to $160. It now makes cool electric sounds on startup and I'm very pleased.
Also got home and replaced a fuse and my windshield wipers work normally again.
Most exciting of all I found a highway on ramp that was under construction and had a stop sign. This meant I could legally go from 0 to 60 as fast as I was capable, suuuuper fun.
To do list:
Touch up headliner with better adhesive
Replace power window and power lock motors
Replace steering idler arm
Paint
A/C
????
Do you know if your door is fiberglass?
As I mentioned before, the Firebird's doors are. The window glass is so heavy that it has dug through the fiberglass. It can be stopped by having a piece of metal cut to fit between the regulator bolts/rivets and the fiberglass door (the force caused by opening/closing the window is distributed across the plate instead of straight into the door.) I only mention this because once the damage is done it's really difficult to undo it.
Your 3rd gen might be different but if you're going to be there already it may be something to look into.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;46061724]Do you know if your door is fiberglass?
As I mentioned before, the Firebird's doors are. The window glass is so heavy that it has dug through the fiberglass. It can be stopped by having a piece of metal cut to fit between the regulator bolts/rivets and the fiberglass door (the force caused by opening/closing the window is distributed across the plate instead of straight into the door.) I only mention this because once the damage is done it's really difficult to undo it.
Your 3rd gen might be different but if you're going to be there already it may be something to look into.[/QUOTE]
3rd gen camaro doors are made out of tank quality steel, most people think the doors are locked when they try to open them because they're so heavy that the people opening them are more likely to push themselves than the door.
As of now the windows seem to have full range of motion, but as I've had them get stuck once before so I'm careful not to lower them all the way, that way I can pull them up manually if I have to. Besides that, they're just a bit sluggish and one of them just makes a grinding sound at a certain point of its cycle when going up or down. I imagine grease and new motors should fix everything.
The power locks work too, but the force behind them is weak so I have to hit the button anywhere from once to a dozen times for them to fully lock.
Thanks for the word of caution though, its certainly something I'll be researching.
Sweet! You're probably good to go then. I guess the fiberglass just can't take the weight of my massive windows after 15 years.
You also might be able to adjust the stoppers on your window so it will always stop with a little bit of the glass sticking out. I know my Firebird has a ton of window glass adjustments
So I'm getting kinda sick of working on the Slaab. Every time I fix one thing, something else breaks. I tightened the bolts connecting the cat to the header, only to cause the exhaust to break off a few days later. The bolts from the exhaust to the cat are so rusty, I can't even cut them off. So I tied the exhaust up with some tubing I found in order to drive it to VIP to get an estimate on repairs, but they fucked me over and held my car for two days and did jack shit. They did literally nothing. So I'm never giving those assholes my business again. Not only that, but the vacuum hose went. That was easy, but the exhaust, not so much. I also got a new power steering hose, but due to Saab's ass-backwards mounting of the engine (Because fuck you, do it yourself people) I probably can't replace it myself.
[t]http://i.imgbox.com/TPSQsyRt.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgbox.com/PnXwgD8s.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgbox.com/KqW3RRza.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgbox.com/MpWGnAw0.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=jazxsora;46069603]So I'm getting kinda sick of working on the Slaab. Every time I fix one thing, something else breaks. I tightened the bolts connecting the cat to the header, only to cause the exhaust to break off a few days later. The bolts from the exhaust to the cat are so rusty, I can't even cut them off. So I tied the exhaust up with some tubing I found in order to drive it to VIP to get an estimate on repairs, but they fucked me over and held my car for two days and did jack shit. They did literally nothing. So I'm never giving those assholes my business again. Not only that, but the vacuum hose went. That was easy, but the exhaust, not so much. I also got a new power steering hose, but due to Saab's ass-backwards mounting of the engine (Because fuck you, do it yourself people) I probably can't replace it myself.
[t]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/872hDzp_B9Q7IGGiDJiLz9g2Elr-mEohp7do2sqqEvEyBVa53cp-geXnyH9CcDy-hxXUaQqgubM=w1256-h779[/t][t]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/prcoAEyQ3KsbLgBeE-f9LnA4m686wSgjb-UN9MwAj4ijZQob7eoBFYqnTvemoW_o1qQbEIM55vs=w1256-h779[/t]
[t]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/bI38WIk-r3zRy2F2GhKcWo1KOs-bHN3MUDX5CLSejqUI7UxmPR1ysJ4Qfv9a0AYF83g31aCSGI4=w1256-h779[/t][t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/kLWHuATUUnlq7JSufSfSAgaJY72FQRXePTU43KLpUg3NtAwFLqYqdtq6Z9RGavDUeJ3SUwKgmeI=w1256-h779[/t][/QUOTE]
Are there any euro cars that aren't a complete pain in the dick to work on?
I polished my car and tried a synthetic paint sealant instead of organic carnuba wax.
Never, ever going back. Synthetic stuff is the [I]shit[/I]. Applying and removing it is half the work of regular wax.
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46069657]Are there any euro cars that aren't a complete pain in the dick to work on?[/QUOTE]
My opel kadett, it's pretty easy to work on. Worst thing I've had to do so far is remove the intake when it had a carb. For some reason the intake covers the bolts holding the underside of it so removing them is a massive pain in the ass. Cut my fingers many times then.
Crack-Whore integra shines up not too bad!
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/B6D6FB03-D791-4100-9BE2-E970DC99FAAA_zpsfxze6a7x.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/0A1BC6E8-A64F-4E12-990E-70BC865C0ECB_zpsrrznk9vo.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/1A499D97-C90B-4D5D-A8EC-AD0456C7D0AF_zpss6cv16vu.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46069657]Are there any euro cars that aren't a complete pain in the dick to work on?[/QUOTE]
I heard the old RWD Volvos are pretty easy. That model Saab is pretty special though since the engine is literally mounted backwards.
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46069657]Are there any euro cars that aren't a complete pain in the dick to work on?[/QUOTE]
Audis are not that too much a pain in the dick, all the work is in disassembly to get what you need to get too. After that it's all clear skies.
American made isn't always easy to work on either. My truck (1998 Chevy S10) needed a new downpipe and starter. The flexible portion of the pipe had been leaking and spraying hot exhaust on the starter which fucked it up needless to say (the starter would occasionally not engage unless you went under the truck and tapped on the solenoid with a wrench). I didn't have the room to get a sawzall in there and the bolts were so rusty that they broke when we tried removing them. We ended up taking the manifold off with the pipe, drilled out the holes, and then put new hardware in. And all because of a simple exhaust leak.
Finally refreshed the ignition on the Skyline and set the idle timing runs a lot better. No longer misfires on cylinder 1 at idle or idles too high, picked up a few kilowats to. mind you it had been running like shit since I got it and before I had it I think it didn't get to much attention. It would start everytime and it never broke down on me a testament to Nissan I think, now it just runs better.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/bGTwkdgl.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/au1UqIdl.jpg[/IMG]
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOynW7uuvk8&feature=youtu.be[/media]
get some electric rad fans!
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46069657]Are there any euro cars that aren't a complete pain in the dick to work on?[/QUOTE]
old bmws are pretty simple in todays standards, had engine out and back in within 5 days with everything hooked up, while only working 2-3 hours a day.
I mean if we want to talk about hard to work on cars, the Firebird's engine is mostly under a dashboard. Only nice part is that the oil filter is out in the open with absolutely nothing around it.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;46071610]get some electric rad fans![/QUOTE]
When I put in the L28.
[QUOTE=CubeManv2;46053231]this is probably what happened, they assumed the mopar oem came pre gapped (Think they are NGK's in mopar boxes).[/QUOTE]
All mechanics assume that, the two shops I've worked at didn't even have a single gapping tool between them.
If you want easy to work on, I had the engine in my car assembled, mounted to trans, mounted on the car and completed in about 5 hours.
And nary had to adjust a single thing, but Hondas are notorious for being cake walks to work on.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;46072303]I mean if we want to talk about hard to work on cars, the Firebird's engine is mostly under a dashboard. Only nice part is that the oil filter is out in the open with absolutely nothing around it.[/QUOTE]
Aint got nothing on my oil fitler, you stand up, lean over the fender, and unscrew it.
Just to the left of dizzy in this picture is the stand for it.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Ignore the tiger's blood leaking out of it, that's normal.
I didn't think to get any pictures, but I put Dynamat on the rear wall and driver's door of the truck and damn that made a world of difference. I'm waiting till tomorrow to do the passenger's door and see how well it turns out.
Removed the idiot light cluster and installed the one with gauges.
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/gauges_zps1a25240d.jpg[/img]
Still need to pick up the senders for the oil psi and coolant temp. Currently temp is always 0 and psi is somewhere around "150"
That reminds me of the time I turned on my camaro and watched the temperature gauge go a bit higher than usual:
[IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/418447_3426845879567_1110715389_n.jpg?oh=c6349137ac5207774c5201cb3ccfd3c9&oe=54CDC793&__gda__=1418272244_c334b56c48f74d637eeedd859646364d[/IMG]
Not sure what's doing it since I've never been too concerned about it, but I assume its just a sensor going bad.
[QUOTE=notrabies;46085987]That reminds me of the time I turned on my camaro and watched the temperature gauge go a bit higher than usual:
[IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/418447_3426845879567_1110715389_n.jpg?oh=c6349137ac5207774c5201cb3ccfd3c9&oe=54CDC793&__gda__=1418272244_c334b56c48f74d637eeedd859646364d[/IMG]
Not sure what's doing it since I've never been too concerned about it, but I assume its just a sensor going bad.[/QUOTE]
My fuel gauge did that some time back, I was fooling around with my radio messing with settings and had the car running when movement catches my eye.
The gauge floated to pegged out full, so I checked the rheostat in the tank and determined it was fine. Then I checked the gauge and found the wire that goes to ground on the mechanism itself was severed.
For you it very well could just be a dead sensor, before I changed mine it would read close to 300 at 187.
Thought the car was gonna explode or something.
Well the temperature gauge permanently reads maximum hot (even when the car is off and the battery is unplugged), so I assume its got to be a busted sensor or it would have changed when the car turns off or when the battery is unplugged.
As for the rest of my gauges, my fuel sensor is loose so it bounces constantly, but it does give a decently accurate reading when the car is stationary; the oil pressure gauge is totally fucked to the point where it constantly moves to wherever the fuck it feels like; but at least the speedo and tach work properly.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46073072]All mechanics assume that, the two shops I've worked at didn't even have a single gapping tool between them.[/QUOTE]
NGK's are pre-gapped, at least all Honda specific ones. I've checked the gap on quite a few and they are always dead on. Nothing stops idiots from dropping them though.
[QUOTE=notrabies;46086175]Well the temperature gauge permanently reads maximum hot (even when the car is off and the battery is unplugged), so I assume its got to be a busted sensor or it would have changed when the car turns off or when the battery is unplugged.
As for the rest of my gauges, my fuel sensor is loose so it bounces constantly, but it does give a decently accurate reading when the car is stationary; the oil pressure gauge is totally fucked to the point where it constantly moves to wherever the fuck it feels like; but at least the speedo and tach work properly.[/QUOTE]
These are features to keep you on your feet to maintain your vehicle, it was a selling point from GM!
[QUOTE=Serj22;46077735]Aint got nothing on my oil fitler, you stand up, lean over the fender, and unscrew it.
Just to the left of dizzy in this picture is the stand for it.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Ignore the tiger's blood leaking out of it, that's normal.[/QUOTE]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/IMG_0150.jpg[/img]
R18 8th Gen Civic, jack it up, drain it, change the filter, fill it, drop it and go. Really tempted to try changing it from driving two wheels on a curb for the sake of argument. The oil even drains wonderfully downwards and doesn't drip anywhere from the filter. It keeps oil in the filter too by design.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.