• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
You sure you got polyester parts and not glasfiber parts? Anyways, [URL="http://www.rustoleum.com/pages/find-a-product/"]here's their website[/URL]
[QUOTE=Gulen;46099220]You sure you got polyester parts and not glasfiber parts? Anyways, [URL="http://www.rustoleum.com/pages/find-a-product/"]here's their website[/URL][/QUOTE] Yeah it's polyester [img]http://79.170.40.182/rickvandenbosch.nl/images/BMW%20E36/bmw%20deur%20e36%20(3)%20(Small).JPG[/img] [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] I don't have the door, but I do have front fenders from that same company. I wish I had the doors too since they have a window frame for plastic windows as the normal coupe doors don't have a frame and are really fucking heavy. Thing is, these doors cost $600 each :suicide:
I haven't posted in a while, so there's a lot to this post. Since I've been gone: Shampooed the interior like crazy | 3 Times Rebuilt the headliner Installed a new radiator. I've never seen so much rust from a radiator in my life. Brand new aluminum replaced the heavy copper one. Painted the parts that were missing paint Headliner before; I don't have a picture of the new yet. It's BA though. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Pgqqzad.jpg[/t] This is what it looked like before: [t]http://i.imgur.com/GsLbbX5.jpg[/t] Test painted a headlight to see if we got the right color. Nope. Rattle can will not work. The actual color is RG4 (Daytona Blue). So we bought a Qt of that. [t]http://i.imgur.com/LqsaP9V.jpg[/t] Roof = Primed [t]http://i.imgur.com/WBKgC4H.jpg[/t] Rest = primed [t]http://i.imgur.com/rR2EVHk.jpg[/t] Painting! [t]http://i.imgur.com/ulpmn0h.jpg[/t] All done! [t]http://i.imgur.com/W6udKX4.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Strontboer;46099014]Wow that looks REALLY good, I'm thinking about doing that to my E36 racer. What are the chances of it looking 'decent' on a first try? Also what does rustoleum mean anyway?[/QUOTE] Yeah, that guy used rustoleum but im using some other oil-based enamel brand. A big thing is that the first few coats will look like shit with major orangepeel (i'm on my second coat, almost ready for the first round of sanding). But that's solved with several layers and sanding.
So I'm guessing as long as I have plenty of time it's pretty much impossible to fuck up? Sweet!
Yeah, I have a lot of time since my MR2 is just a project and not my DD (plus it doesn't run atm of course) so I figured i'll take the next week or so to really give it a facelift. The hardest part so far is getting the tiny parts with a brush and after the first coat, making sure you cover everything.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46097061] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile Uploads/2014-09/073D10B9-9E29-4035-938B-73179084FCDE_zpsqyu9pave.jpg[/thumb] [/QUOTE] **ck you and your infinite space air hangar garage! [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=deathmog;46097458]I've been using a bunch of different guides, it's best to just google "rolled on rustoleum paint job" and you'll find dozens of links, they're all generally the same. [url]http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html[/url] This guy did a CRAZY good job.[/QUOTE] saw a Corvair that looked just like that, if not the same one at a car show. The one I saw was really shiny looking, but exact same paint scheme, even down to the air dam being blue.
Ive been reading the 4 year update posts and it seems like his is still basically the same after four years, so it seems like it's not a bad way to go for the investment. I guess you cant beat it for ~50 dollars if you dont have any materials anyway
[QUOTE=Ldesu;46097557]Why didn't you just paint it black first, then invert that masking (much less masking) and then paint it white? :v: Wouldn't that go faster?[/QUOTE] I figured that would have been harder since it was thinner (this way I could go over a whole bunch and still have a clean line) plus I'd have to round off the corners still. You way may have been easier actually, thinking on it now I could just fold the tape over to the back but the corners would just be tricky. And not to toot my horn but its not big enough serj! 60x40 but its starting to leak so we are going with a 120x40!
[QUOTE=Serj22;46100407]**ck you and your infinite space air hangar garage! [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] [/QUOTE] [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] Thank you for censoring yourself, Serj222222222222. I appreciate your patronage. [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] god bless
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46100777]I figured that would have been harder since it was thinner (this way I could go over a whole bunch and still have a clean line) plus I'd have to round off the corners still. You way may have been easier actually, thinking on it now I could just fold the tape over to the back but the corners would just be tricky. And not to toot my horn but its not big enough serj! 60x40 but its starting to leak so we are going with a 120x40![/QUOTE] Dude no Worries... just ship me your old one and were cool. My entire wood shop is only 30 by 100 so I know how "small" spaces get frustrating. I personally have been building my whole car in the driveway of my apartment complex... gotta hide what I'm doing so I "change the oil" and "change the brakes" about once a week when nosy neighbors ask. Then they say "that's a nice nova" and leave.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46101682]Then they say "that's a nice nova" and leave.[/QUOTE] Cringed. I pulled my Comanche into a bay at school and the resident Jeep stereotype walked up and asked me what engine, so I say 'the 2.5' "Ah. Them iron dukes are DAMN good motors bro!" [sp]the iron duke being the 2.2l GM 4cyl that has NO relation to the AMC 2.5[/sp]
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;46101946]Cringed. I pulled my Comanche into a bay at school and the resident Jeep stereotype walked up and asked me what engine, so I say 'the 2.5' "Ah. Them iron dukes are DAMN good motors bro!" [sp]the iron duke being the 2.2l GM 4cyl that has NO relation to the AMC 2.5[/sp][/QUOTE] It's ok. I know the feels. That's why I put the giant "DART" vinyl stripe on it, now i just get asked "what year is it?" then you go "68" "Nice, I had a '74 with a 360, super fast, does this have a 360?" "no... slant" "oh... (look of shame)" My favorite was someone told me that they were pretty sure Dart's were just starting to be made, and that Darts weren't made in the 70's - so why did I have a "dart" sticker on my charger? I told them it was just something cool I thought of.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46102109]It's ok. I know the feels. That's why I put the giant "DART" vinyl stripe on it, now i just get asked "what year is it?" then you go "68" "Nice, I had a '74 with a 360, super fast, does this have a 360?" "no... slant" "oh... (look of shame)" My favorite was someone told me that they were pretty sure Dart's were just starting to be made, and that Darts weren't made in the 70's - so why did I have a "dart" sticker on my charger? I told them it was just something cool I thought of.[/QUOTE] That's hilarious. Lawn darts have been around since long before the 70's.....
As winter is coming, last week I did a few rust preventive things. -Cleaned everything in my wheel wells, painted everything that would need a lil paint job with paint over -rust paint. Heavy coat of it. Four wells. -Cleaned the lil rust spots and painted them back on the fenders, -Did touch ups on dings there and there, they came out surprisingly well, -Oiled all door hinges, trunk and hood latches aswell, -Did a good cleaning of the engine bay again, -Treated the seats leather and cleaned the interior, -Waxed it for a last time before winter. Also my hood is now vinyl-less. De-wrapped it mainly due to it getting to look old. Took me a good 3hrs to remove on a cold day. Now only gotta change oil, switch to winter tires(Waiting till november for that.), get the undercarriage and panels innards oil-treated, finish por-painting the metal parts inside the fender wells, heavy coats of it to protect from rocks and thus chipping and finally rusting. Still wondering if I should pulley up for the winter, 12 psi might be too high. Though my ecu is programmed so boost is somewhat by-passed under 50% throttle. So I guess I can just be careful too and save 80$ for a power-removing mod :v: Helps to have more time for myself being done with most of work. Sucks for money, but what can I do. At least I'll be able to post sometimes here again.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46100729]Ive been reading the 4 year update posts and it seems like his is still basically the same after four years, so it seems like it's not a bad way to go for the investment. I guess you cant beat it for ~50 dollars if you dont have any materials anyway[/QUOTE] What did you use for the initial and wet sanding? For such a large amount of surface area I imagine sandpaper is out of the picture, so would an orbital be the best choice? Also, how exactly did your car look before you applied the first coat? Should I be sanding until there is literally nothing but shiny metal?
how the fuck do you remove the clips from the fuel filter on a vauxhall corsa c? tried needle pliers screwdrivers etc they're absolutely mashed too as the last guy must have tried and given up Since vauxhall are now part of GM, someone must have seen them [editline]29th September 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=notrabies;46102670]What did you use for the initial and wet sanding? For such a largeamount of surface area I imagine sandpaper is out of the picture, so would an orbital be the best choice? Also, how exactly did your car look before you applied the first coat? Should I be sanding until there is literally nothing but shiny metal?[/QUOTE] no if the metal is good still just blocksand (important) til you have a fresh clean surface to spray on. sand it up to about 600, then just spray base coat or topcoat. any imperfections will show up even more once you paint it must be perfect. If you need to repair minor surface rust, angle grind it off to clean metal, bare metal primer, filler, blocksand, high build primer, blocksand, lightly put a dusting of aerosol colour on, blocksand again to check for high/low spots, really check again for any nicks or wobbly filler then paint as normal. block sand in an x motion to get a flat surface and use a big block
[QUOTE=joe588;46103108] no if the metal is good still just blocksand (important) til you have a fresh clean surface to spray on. sand it up to about 600, then just spray base coat or topcoat. any imperfections will show up even more once you paint it must be perfect. If you need to repair minor surface rust, angle grind it off to clean metal, bare metal primer, filler, blocksand, high build primer, blocksand, lightly put a dusting of aerosol colour on, blocksand again to check for high/low spots, really check again for any nicks or wobbly filler then paint as normal. block sand in an x motion to get a flat surface and use a big block[/QUOTE] Not for the first time I am filled with regret that the Camaro's hood has a surface area of roughly 24 square feet. I'll take some pictures tomorrow to give you guys a better idea of what shape the paint is actually in.
Yeah use 600 grit, I used a block. There should be a picture in my original post of it right befor the first coat. For some reason I was under the impression to wetsand after two or three xoats but I tgink ill do a few nore coats first.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46099978]Yeah, that guy used rustoleum but im using some other oil-based enamel brand. A big thing is that the first few coats will look like shit with major orangepeel (i'm on my second coat, almost ready for the first round of sanding). But that's solved with several layers and sanding.[/QUOTE] i painted my last truck with walmart rustoleum and thinned it about 50% with mineral spirits. put 3 layers sanded, two more layers, sanded ect. till i think 9 layers of thinned paint. rolled on with foam rollers. [img]http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/medium/IMG_3144.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/medium/IMG_3175.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/medium/IMG_3177.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/medium/IMG_3187.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/medium/IMG_3231re.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/medium/IMG_3230re.JPG[/img] worked great for what i wanted, a cheap paint job that i wasnt afraid of messing up. i still see it running around 4 years later it still looks good.
I haven't thinned my base coat, I'm probably going to thin it from here on out
[QUOTE=joe588;46103108]how the fuck do you remove the clips from the fuel filter on a vauxhall corsa c? tried needle pliers screwdrivers etc they're absolutely mashed too as the last guy must have tried and given up Since vauxhall are now part of GM, someone must have seen them [/QUOTE] i had to make a tool to get it off, if you have the same problem weld two teeth onto some vice grips. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/pJLCF9s.png[/IMG]
i went to 275's in the rear ;) [img]http://i.imgur.com/xQdYfAS.jpg[/img]
The ignition switch that RockAuto sold me that was advertised for my vehicle doesn't fit. There's a ridge on the OEM one and this one doesn't, making it have too fat of a diameter. kill me
Can't you just contact RockAuto and tell them? I'm guessing they would let you send the part back and refund you at the very least.
Yeah that's what i'm going to do, I put in a order with Advance today because I had to go there anyway, so I'm getting the part on Thursday, which was actually the day the part was supposed to come in from Rockauto anyway so it all works out.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46109137]The ignition switch that RockAuto sold me that was advertised for my vehicle doesn't fit. There's a ridge on the OEM one and this one doesn't, making it have too fat of a diameter. kill me[/QUOTE] was it the right part number or? I've had this occur on numerous occasions with my Challenger. I give them a number and i get the wrong parts [i]specifically on my fucking brake pads[/i]
[QUOTE=CubeManv2;46109090]i went to 275's in the rear ;) [img]http://i.imgur.com/xQdYfAS.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] Tells world he put 11" wide tires in the back. Shows how wide they are with a PROFILE shot.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46110470]Tells world he put 11" wide tires in the back. Shows how wide they are with a PROFILE shot.[/QUOTE] IM RAKED
[QUOTE=CubeManv2;46109090]i went to 275's in the rear ;) [img]http://i.imgur.com/xQdYfAS.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] so 245/45r20 to a 275/40r20? what size is the front
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